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#1 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 281656
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Centreville, VA
Vehicle:2011 WRX Limited DGM |
I will soon be at a point power-wise where I will be flirting with engine failure on the oem shortblock.
My question is, does it make sense to pull the engine now and preemptively drop in a set of pistons to try and ward off failure, or to just wait till it inevitably does blow a piston or ring, and swap in a lightly built block then? It seems to me that the cost of a new semi-built shortblock is about the same cost as the labor and parts to replace pistons in the engine already in the car. Would like to hear from those with experience.
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#2 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 48350
Join Date: Nov 2003
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Pittsburgh
Vehicle:04 WRX |
In my opinoin its cheaper to rebuild before a breakdown, because you never know what damage a failure will cause.
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#3 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 129833
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Staten Island, NY
Vehicle:2005 Forester XT Obsidian Black Pearl |
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#4 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 255776
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle:2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered. |
Rebuild before.
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#5 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 215004
Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Neenah WI
Vehicle:02 Rex I wanna go fast!!!!! |
Def. Rebuild before!
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#6 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 180514
Join Date: May 2008
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: Windsor
Vehicle:2004 Sti White |
Rebuild before
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#7 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 281656
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Centreville, VA
Vehicle:2011 WRX Limited DGM |
Sounds like I will be upgrading the engine before the dom2.5 goes on then!
The next question is, is it more cost effective to have a shop add pistons to the shortblock currently in the car, or just buy a built short block and have a shop swap it in? I am thinking there will be less downtime buying an already assembled short block, and it could mostly pay for itself by selling the oem short block. |
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#8 | |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 301136
Join Date: Nov 2011
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Quote:
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#9 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 255776
Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Laramie, WY
Vehicle:2010 LR WRX MPS and PAR powered. |
I would go with a fresh block. Well let me rephrase that, I DID go with that. It normally would give you less down time (I had different circumstances). Do some research on which shop you would want to build it, I'll obviously recommend Maxwell Power. I haven't gotten my engine yet, but Dom has put up with me and that speaks volumes. Great customer service especially if you have some patience and can understand that they're extremely busy. I had a hard time with the patience part
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#10 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 168077
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Virginia Beach
Vehicle:13 sti PBP |
Asuming that by "dropping" you mean complete dissasembly with hoaning cleaning and miking then yes i agree with the rest, if not...
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#11 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 198964
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: south NJ
Vehicle:2004 WRX wgn, built! WRB |
Unless youve got a pile of money sittin around waitin for your motor to go, its always easier in my exp to build without rush, I build my own motors so I can set up my shop and work part by part as I have time and cash to drop on the parts I want without making sacrifices by going with whatever is available or Ive got cash for at the moment. It always takes longer than expected and unless youve got another vehicle, or a trust fund..lol. Having a backup build in the works is the best approach to me. I can swap a motor in a long day or two in the event that my motor grenades.. Scenerio#1: Your motor blows.. now you have to get towed home or to a shop. It'll usually happen on a busy highway miles from home in the middle of a blizzard on the week that your rent is due. hahaha. Start figuring out parts you want to buy in a rush, youll prob overlook things and end up not fully thinkin the build out. It'll be rushed, youll pick the wrong builder or build sloppily. Scenario#2: Take your time, hang around the Built Motor section of Nasioc, read alot and get to know what the weak points are that cant be overlooked.. Absorb loads of knowledge about the EJ engine, buy quality parts that suit your needs for your car. Find good deals on parts and meet cool people that help you out along the way. If you dont blow your motor, you can sell it to recoup build costs spent on your new motor. Or keep it and rebuild it with your new found knowledge, now youve got a back up motor.. live happily ever after.. im rambling.. out to my shop to work on my build for a bit
happy buildin!Last edited by 99imprezd; 12-14-2012 at 07:52 PM. |
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#12 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 226211
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Europe
Vehicle:2002 impreza WRX JDM blue |
the block which has been worked before for some k miles is better choise for build VS brand new block. after some hone, piston choosing and line boring main housings, it will be much stronger and durable startpoint then brand new block.
I'm sure some people will agree here and understand what do I mean. |
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#13 | |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: 07456, North NJ
Vehicle:1998 Legacy 2.5GT Silver Sleeper Wagon |
Quote:
Not sure it applies as much with todays pressure cast aluminum, it WAS true in older cast Iron blocks. Best bet then was a high mileage block that had decent care, then it was line bored (to get straight perfect holes for the crank & cam), decked (so the head mating surface/surfaces were parallel to the crank and "square" to each other), etc. The old cast iron blocks had internal casting stresses that could twist the block out of shape with heat cycles. I'm sure the newer aluminum blocks go through some "relaxing" but I don't believe it's anywhere near as much as in the past. Oh, to the OP.......unless you have a 2nd set of reliable wheels, I myself would do a block/engine NOW and then swap when ready. I would also likely save the old bits for either your use, or to sell to someone that, "Just had an oops" and needs parts ASAP. Last edited by Charlie-III; 12-17-2012 at 12:01 PM. Reason: Fix typo. |
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#14 |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 309599
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: New Jersey
Vehicle:2006 STi CGM |
Rebuild before. If you do blow a ringland, you will very likely scour the cylinder walls which will require rehoning plus other odds and ends. I do recommend upgrading rods as well!
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#15 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 316966
Join Date: Apr 2012
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Rebuild before - I learn't the hard way ($$$$)
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#16 |
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NASIOC Supporter
Member#: 316296
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Metro Detroit
Vehicle:2006 STIROID GT3794@30psi |
Before! Always before. lol.
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#17 |
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NASIOC Vendor
Member#: 200987
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: VA
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