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Old 11-24-2012, 07:54 AM   #1801
EvileyeZ88
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Haha I knew I could spot that turbo anywhere.

Don't worry I have the same turbo, its actually a TD06H, and has the same size turbine wheel as the 20G XT-R.

I've rebuilt mine with a 3" anti-surge inlet compressor cover, billet 10 blade compressor wheel, and PnPd everything else.

Should be a blast...once I finally get it in and tuned.

Does that rotated up pipe bolt to the header or is it an up pipe adapter?

I've been considering eventually going rotated with my 20G, and then once my motor is built, start to play with different compressor and turbine wheel combinations

~Evil
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Last edited by EvileyeZ88; 11-24-2012 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:04 AM   #1802
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It is an adapter to up pipe flange, just ordered 2 raw flanges and used some stainless exhaust pipe and welded it up. My Turbosmart external waste gate is adapted in flange also
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Old 12-31-2012, 12:35 AM   #1803
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Hey subie guys and gals, I did this this weekend..

Here what I did.

Grimmspeed phenolic 8mm spacers and 2 gaskets for each spacer.
I have a DBW TB so I had to give my intake manifold some dremmel love and notch out some space for the TB gear box. and run two TB gaskets. (careful I went too low on a runner and went through had to get it welded back up.) The only wire that Needed to be longer was the TB wiring. Taking off some of the electrical tape and wire loom will give you the length needed for other various connections on the wire harness. The next thing that was needed to get done to complete this was to ROTATE the alternator (pro tip: The Grimspeed Phenolic 8mm spacer comes with new set of TGV Bolts longer ones.. Use one of the old ones to replace the Long Alternator bolt. Use a 12 mm bolt and nut for the belt tensioner.) Found a new location for my BOV and the return hose and had my FMIC piping cut and re-welded. then BOOM bobs your uncle. It wasn't too bad but I would say this is not something you can do in a weekend.. Because you need to get stuff welded up One more thing about the alternator.. The post for the power wire to it needs to be rotated as well.. There is a plastic peg that needs to be ground down and then you can rotate it as needed. Its close to the Green wire harness on the alternator but you can make it fit.. I also used a 33.5 belt. Autozone 335K5 is what I used.. I like the look of a rotated intake just VERY close to the hood.. Ill trim it later.. I also will get some other pictures updated later from the intake manifold.
hope this helps..
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:47 AM   #1804
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If you deloom the wiring for the tb you can get enough slack not to extend the wires. Same thing for the alt wiring. I have no Idea what your talking about with the alt and using a manifold bolt though. I dropped mine using the oem hardware. Did you slot the cover for the alt so the a/c belt doesnt rub on it?

Btw, Id ditch the red grounding wires, they make the engine look cluttered and do nothing.

You could clean up your vaccum lines by filling the upper ones and retapping them in places you cant see.
What fuel lines are those they are wayyy too long. A hydraulic shop could shorten them for you.

just some constructive criticisim.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:44 AM   #1805
WreaKLoosE
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Hay thanks Scby rex. I did deloom the tb wires still no luck on the distance for me Same for the Alt wires. It gave me some more room and I got them to connect but the wires where dam tight still so I felt better just to make them longer..

The fuel lines where made for my other RS manifold set up and it was all configured way differently. so I needed them that long at the time.. Yea.. I was thinking about tapping some of the vacume taps to the back. Just got to figure out what i got to do to clean up some of the wires and hoses still..

About slotting the alt cover I did read about that and was going to do it but when I got it in i still had a bunch of room from the alt cover to the a/c belt and I was good on clearance.. I took a few quick pics to show the clearance and the bolts i used... It was one of the OE bolts from the TGV was perfect and it screwed into the alt case where the tensioner used to go.






Even though the bolt crews to the altinator ill probably just throw a bolt on the end.

This is not fully done there are still a bunch of clean up i gotta do..

But I do like the feedback and any CC you got..

Thanks guys..
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:10 PM   #1806
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What was wrong with the oem bolts? Im using a 34inch belt, Im really suprized you dont have any clearance problem with the belt.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:22 PM   #1807
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The Oem bolt for the alt is too long if I rotated it.. The oem bolt for the TGVs are too short with the Grimmspeed 8mm spacer. it came with longer ones. So I used the OEM TGV bolt for the alt and it was a perfect fit.. I have a small belt I use 33.5 inch belt it works and with modification to the post for the power line for the alt it worked perfectly.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:45 PM   #1808
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It's prob already been discussed here but i don't wanna read threw every page but what does the lag compare to vs a regular fmic set up and vs a tmics.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:18 AM   #1809
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Subscrib'd. Ill be back with pics tomorrow.
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Old 01-05-2013, 01:21 AM   #1810
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^^^^^The i/c piping has NOTHING to do with "lag". Throttle response only. I didnt notice one single difference going revered from normal fmic. The car is much easier to work on though. If you read through at least page one you would see that.


Quote:
Originally Posted by WreaKLoosE View Post
The Oem bolt for the alt is too long if I rotated it.. The oem bolt for the TGVs are too short with the Grimmspeed 8mm spacer. it came with longer ones. So I used the OEM TGV bolt for the alt and it was a perfect fit.. I have a small belt I use 33.5 inch belt it works and with modification to the post for the power line for the alt it worked perfectly.
The bolt thing is new to me. Ive done reveresed setups on dbc cars and theres no problem. Ive also seen in here and in person cars with bdw and had no problems with that bolt being too long. Maybe yours didnt have the oem bolt?
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:59 PM   #1811
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New ProcessWest Reverse Intake Manifold...

Close your mouth before scrolling down


http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Proc...n&src=ckjexlln









Kirill
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:15 PM   #1812
mboulton
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Oh boy.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:18 PM   #1813
EvileyeZ88
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Drool
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:27 PM   #1814
scby rex
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Just like the corse veloce except its welded together. That one requires you to ditch the a/c and flip the alt. Probably 1/3 more than the cosworth too.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:07 PM   #1815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallySport Direct View Post
New ProcessWest Reverse Intake Manifold...

Close your mouth before scrolling down

http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Proc...n&src=ckjexlln

Kirill
RallySportDirect.com
Kirill can you post a picture of this with DBW TB and reversed with alternator on it's place? I think installing this reversed is friendlier than Cosworth. I had to use 3/4inch TB to IM and I had to file some minimal material from the Cosworth and the TB but i was able to do it.






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Old 01-09-2013, 08:26 PM   #1816
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So because this points down, you have to move the alt with this manifold, no exception?
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:03 PM   #1817
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Berdugo, your cossy manifold tips upward so it clears the alt. With the PW manifold, it tips down and juts forward so the alt would have to be flipped and the a/c would have to go.

btw, cut the coolant pipe off your tb, it will look better and your not using it anyway.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:20 PM   #1818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scby rex View Post
Berdugo, your cossy manifold tips upward so it clears the alt. With the PW manifold, it tips down and juts forward so the alt would have to be flipped and the a/c would have to go.

btw, cut the coolant pipe off your tb, it will look better and your not using it anyway.
Yes, that's really frustrating

I'm using a 7/8inch IM to TGV spacer right now just to clear the alternator.

With the picture of the PW IM, I think I can use a 2inch IM to TGV spacer to clear the alternator ( wishful thinking).

I really don't know what is the difference with the 06-07 Euro STI to USDM STI with regards to reversing IM. I'm using 34.5 inch alternator belt already and I have to remove my alternator pulley just to be able to put the belt. I read somewhere that you are using 34 inch belt. I tried that before but I can't do it.

And yes I will cut that TB coolant pipe when I clean everything before firing up the engine. Thanks
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:23 AM   #1819
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Glad you guys like the new manifold.
We should have more info shortly on this unit, we are just waiting for ProcessWest to get back to us with some details that you guy have questions about

Kirill
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:37 PM   #1820
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berdugo View Post
Yes, that's really frustrating

I'm using a 7/8inch IM to TGV spacer right now just to clear the alternator.

With the picture of the PW IM, I think I can use a 2inch IM to TGV spacer to clear the alternator ( wishful thinking).

I really don't know what is the difference with the 06-07 Euro STI to USDM STI with regards to reversing IM. I'm using 34.5 inch alternator belt already and I have to remove my alternator pulley just to be able to put the belt. I read somewhere that you are using 34 inch belt. I tried that before but I can't do it.

And yes I will cut that TB coolant pipe when I clean everything before firing up the engine. Thanks
I made the adjustment slot go further down. So its easier to get a belt on. I dont remove the pulley or anything.

Ive seen the UK guys machine the front of the cossy manifold so the tb fits better. Try looking at the projects on http://bbs.scoobynet.com/
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Old 01-22-2013, 07:58 PM   #1821
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Okay so I've been subscribed to this thread for a pretty good while. Have I read it entirely? No. lol.

But seriously I have seen the post and the how to's and I believe this mod is something that needs done on my swapped GC after the engine is complete. But being my worry is with the 180 degree manifold and TB rotation, is the clearance between that and my jdm version 5 hood a issue. I understand its been done and sometimes you will have to grind some of the hood down but....

After searching the internet for more information I stumbled upon a picture of Finelineimports.net




Now not only would I love to know what had to be done to take the throttlebody underneath the intake manifold where the stock turbo inlet would be.

My question is, Is this a custom plastic intake manifold with the throttle body attached to the undersideish(not a word I know but its the best I could come up with)?

They have no pictures from the rear side of the engine. Which I can understand but I'm curious as to what you guys think of this.

The other ones they have done which pictures are on the site finelineimports.net are the same in this thread here
example


Last edited by CBrodie14; 01-22-2013 at 08:06 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:12 PM   #1822
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http://finelineimports.net/index.php...roducts_id=421

To answer one of my own questions it is a stock plastic manifold...

but how did they put the throttlebody there?
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:15 PM   #1823
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the plastic intake manifold is off of the later model WRX's andLegacy GT's. I believe most of them if not all a drive by wire. my rotated kit is on a gf wagon with a JDM carbon hood and I did not have to modify the underhood. the picture of mine is a few posts back
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:19 PM   #1824
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^ what he said

That's the manifold off the newer legacy's, thats where the throttle body is located from OEM, mounts like the tomei's do if I remember correct, it normally comes out the rear left to fot the legacy intercooler, but when rotated comes out the front left as the pictures show. I actually have one in my bedroom right now
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:27 PM   #1825
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I understand it can be done without coming too close to the hood... but imo the legacy gt intake manifold looks a little cleaner in my opinion.

I had no idea the throttle body mounted like that to the intake manifold.

Thanks to everyone for the fast response.
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