Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday July 23, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > Member's Car Gallery

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-05-2013, 09:22 PM   #4351
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

I e-mailed him after Christmas and he was out of town last weekend, and then he fit me in today. Not much of a wait.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 11:33 PM   #4352
PearlRex11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 284420
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Lakewood, Ca
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Sedan
SWP

Default

Looks nice xluben, quick tip for the roll pin on the linkage. If your drift punch isn't long enough use a strong screw driver with the end cut off. A #2 should fit pretty good.
PearlRex11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 11:35 PM   #4353
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Why would anyone have that? I had the same issue with the punch and I used an appropriately sized nail. Works perfectly. You should make a thread. Your comments are just going to get buried in here and not help anyone.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 11:44 PM   #4354
Overland04
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 293311
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Coast of Maine
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Limited
tinyurl.com/ovng2nd

Default

The tint looks great Ben!
How do you feel about driving it at night? Can you see okay?
Overland04 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 11:47 PM   #4355
Jdub.csu
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 283784
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2013 EVO X GSR
White

Default

Ah glad you chose 20%
Jdub.csu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-05-2013, 11:58 PM   #4356
SenorDucK
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 327511
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicagoland
Vehicle:
13' WRX 6 Speed
11sec VF52 EL-EWG-E85

Default

tint looks great, I had 18 done and am happy so far. I think around 20 is perfect.
SenorDucK is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 12:09 AM   #4357
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Overland04 View Post
The tint looks great Ben!
How do you feel about driving it at night? Can you see okay?
Night visibility is OK. Headlights and taillights are still easily visible but other items can be a bit harder. Like parking. Or even when a dark car is right beside me. If I can't see their lights it's hard to see the at all. Overall I think it will be OK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jdub.csu View Post
Ah glad you chose 20%
Quote:
Originally Posted by SenorDucK View Post
tint looks great, I had 18 done and am happy so far. I think around 20 is perfect.
This 20% film actually meters 22% and on the car it ends up being 16%. The factory windows are actually 70% already!
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 01:12 AM   #4358
HeroCrank
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 301089
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MAINE
Vehicle:
2011 WRX 5 door
TP stage 2

Default

Looking good xluben
HeroCrank is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 09:28 AM   #4359
Pearldrummer7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277514
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2012 WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
...You should make a thread. Your comments are just going to get buried in here and not help anyone.
Definitely true; you have some good advice!!

Ben- tint looks great!
Pearldrummer7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 11:42 AM   #4360
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Better photos of the tint (20% all around).





xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 01:39 PM   #4361
Jdub.csu
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 283784
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:
2013 EVO X GSR
White

Default

Makes the car look so much better. Plus it helps with heat in the summer. Win win

Your FMIC loosing its coating? Or is it just the angle?
Jdub.csu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 02:06 PM   #4362
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

I really like how it looks. Appears very dark and nice and black. Heat isn't a big concern but it should help some. Hopefully doesn't make it too cold during winter. Lol.

The coating looks light with that lighting but it is chipping up really bad. I have a review in the review section in it. The FMS/Import Image coating is just crap. Josh said he'd swap my core but it's been many months and he always says he doesn't have any. Empty promise if you ask me.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 02:51 PM   #4363
SenorDucK
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 327511
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicagoland
Vehicle:
13' WRX 6 Speed
11sec VF52 EL-EWG-E85

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
This 20% film actually meters 22% and on the car it ends up being 16%. The factory windows are actually 70% already!

wow! are you kidding me!? I honestly thought they were completely clear and not tinted from factory! I wonder what my tint would register
SenorDucK is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 02:58 PM   #4364
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Yeah the fronts are 70% and rear are 78% from the factory. At least according to the tester that my tint guy uses. So you can basically multiply whatever your tint film is by 0.7-0.8 and get the equivalent amount.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 03:03 PM   #4365
Pearldrummer7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 277514
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
2012 WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Yeah the fronts are 70% and rear are 78% from the factory. At least according to the tester that my tint guy uses. So you can basically multiply whatever your tint film is by 0.7-0.8 and get the equivalent amount.
Hm, darker than I expected for sure! Good info.
Pearldrummer7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #4366
clontz_wi64
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 338150
Join Date: Nov 2012
Default

this car build is awesome. my build is coming together very similar of this one. except i have a '10 useing a 06 sti block and internals with weiscos. Shooting for mid/high 7's 1/8th mile on stock turbo til i swap it out.
clontz_wi64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 03:40 PM   #4367
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clontz_wi64 View Post
this car build is awesome. my build is coming together very similar of this one. except i have a '10 useing a 06 sti block and internals with weiscos. Shooting for mid/high 7's 1/8th mile on stock turbo til i swap it out.
Are you going to use E85 or pump gas? Either way that's going to be pretty difficult with the stock turbo. You'll need some weight reduction, a very aggressive tune, very good driving. Some of the fastest stock turbo cars I've seen are usually right around 8 flat in the 1/8th which results in low 12's in the 1/4.

Then you can upgrade your turbo and start going fast
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 09:17 PM   #4368
SWP is Sexy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 302389
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Houston
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Imperial White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Oh no. Definitely not. My wife got me an appointment with the guy who did my tail lights.

I took my roof rack off tonight. One of the guys working at Autozone said my car sucked (not to me) because it was a WRX, it had a rack, and there was an RS4 parked next to me.
I work at autozone

My last day is next Saturday lol
SWP is Sexy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 09:27 PM   #4369
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

I had an interesting issue today. I'm not sure if it's common or not, but I did a search and didn't come up with anything, so I assume it's fairly rare. My clutch linkage broke!

I was driving to a family get together and I pushed the clutch in and it went straight to the floor and stayed there! I ended up in neutral at the time so I coasted along until I could get it into 1st gear and then I managed to pull into a gas station.

I really had no idea what had gone wrong so I checked the slave cylinder (no movement) and then started to follow the clutch pedal along it's path and eventually noticed that it was not connected to the master cylinder at all any more. The linkage is usually connected with a rod that is held in with a cotter pin and then a plastic cap on the end. Here are the best photos I could find online:





I looked around my floor mat and luckily found the rod that had fallen out. I also found the broken plastic cap, but I could not find the cotter pin. Looking at the rod, it appears the cotter pin broke off inside the hole. Unfortunately this meant I couldn't just shove a new cotter pin in there. Here's a photo of my broken linkage piece:



I ended up sticking the rod back in, without the cotter pin at all, and friction seemed to hold it in well enough to drive the last few miles to where I was headed (and drop of my wife and baby). Then I borrowed a car and went out to the hardware store to see what I could find to repair it.

From what I could tell the OEM part is 8mm in diameter. The only shoulder bolts they had were SAE so I got a 5/16" shoulder bolt that had a shoulder that was the same length as the OEM part. I also got a locking nut and the necessary tools (wrench and allen key) to install it. Here's a stock photo of what I bought (not the same dimensions):



When I got to putting it all back together I found that there was very little space to work in there (and it was dark, I was out in the street, and I was using my cell phone as light), but I did determine that the linkage (the U shaped portion, not the rod itself) was bent about 45 degrees off from where it should have been. I think this has probably been broken for a long time and finally worked itself free.

The lack of space and the bent linkage made it very hard to work, but I eventually got the bolt in and tightened down. The 5/16" diameter is just a hair small, but it's a pretty good fit. The shoulder section is much, much longer than it needs to be. Overall I think this connection method is better than the cotter pin, but I need to get the right length bolt so there isn't so much side to side play.

Once I got home I bent the U linkage back to being straight, but it's still much wider than it originally was. It is all aligned so it is pushing straight on the MC rod, so I'm pretty happy with it, but I'll have to squeeze in the width once I get the shorter shoulder bolt. Here are some photos of how it currently sits:





So now I just have a few questions/concerns:
  1. Any possibly issues using a should bolt and nut instead of the cotter pin? I will use a locking nut and not over torque it so it impedes rotation.
  2. Is it possible that my MC was damaged due to this issue, or over time? Is there anything I need to check?
  3. It appears that the locking nut on the MC rod is not tightened to the U bracket. I will have to go tighten it, but how do I know if it is adjusted properly? I don't know if the rod has moved over time, or just the nut backed off. I do know the my clutch engagement point seems fairly low compared to most others.
That last thing I wanted to note was that I had my MC replaced by the dealer about 2 years ago (when the car was brand new). It was making a clicking noise (an issue some other newer cars have had). The new MC fixed the clicking, but I'm starting to think that their install may have been the cause of this failure (2 years later). No real way to prove that or get them to do anything about it I fear...
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 09:34 PM   #4370
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SWP is Sexy View Post
I work at autozone

My last day is next Saturday lol
Haha. The guys at my Autozone are overly friendly and not work focused at all. And ricers, of course. It's the closest place to me, and really not all the bad, but the service is usually very slow and involves waaay too much small talk, lol.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 10:40 PM   #4371
PearlRex11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 284420
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Lakewood, Ca
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Sedan
SWP

Default

I don't have experience with this exact issue but I can't see how using that shoulder bolt/lock nut would hurt anything. What I would say is to put some bearing grease on the shoulder bolt where it contacts that u joint. Also tighten that lock nut enough to make sure the shoulder bolt won't spin and wear through that bracket. As far as the adjustment, I could try to peak at mine and count exposed threads. I don't know if the mods you have done to your clutch would make it any different? Hope that helps.
PearlRex11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2013, 11:08 PM   #4372
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
I don't have experience with this exact issue but I can't see how using that shoulder bolt/lock nut would hurt anything. What I would say is to put some bearing grease on the shoulder bolt where it contacts that u joint. Also tighten that lock nut enough to make sure the shoulder bolt won't spin and wear through that bracket. As far as the adjustment, I could try to peak at mine and count exposed threads. I don't know if the mods you have done to your clutch would make it any different? Hope that helps.
The nut is tightened down completely onto the shoulder of the bolt. It is not putting any force onto the U joint or the other part of the linkage. I'm not really too worried about wear unless I got a shoulder bolt that was too short and it didn't bottom out before it squeezed the U joint.
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 02:12 PM   #4373
PearlRex11
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 284420
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Lakewood, Ca
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Sedan
SWP

Default

That sounds perfect than. I would dab some grease on the shoulder bolt where it contacts the u joint even though it's probably not necessary. It might squeak later on though. Any luck with the adjustment?
PearlRex11 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 02:20 PM   #4374
abrumlev
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 197920
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Indiana
Vehicle:
2005 Legacy GT
ABP

Default

That honestly sounds like a better option than OEM....lol This happened to a friend's e90 335xi (with a c clip). We did a very similar thing and used a spare c clip off a wastegate I had lying in the garage.
abrumlev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2013, 04:11 PM   #4375
xluben
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:
2012 Forester 2.5X
2002 WRX Sedan

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
That sounds perfect than. I would dab some grease on the shoulder bolt where it contacts the u joint even though it's probably not necessary. It might squeak later on though. Any luck with the adjustment?
I'll see about greasing it. I think it depends on how tight it ends up. The OEM setup is pretty sloppy and doesn't need any grease. If I want it to have less play then I'll probably put a little lube on it.

I haven't played with the adjustment. I am hoping that the nut just backed off and the rod didn't actually rotate (which I think is likely). Then I can just tighten the nut back down and it will be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by abrumlev View Post
That honestly sounds like a better option than OEM....lol This happened to a friend's e90 335xi (with a c clip). We did a very similar thing and used a spare c clip off a wastegate I had lying in the garage.
Yep, I think it is. I talked with some of the design group at work (I am an engineer) and they agreed with my thought that a shoulder bolt is the ideal solution. Their thought was that cotter pin was simply a cost cutting measure (same with the c-clip).
xluben is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
xluben's Pictures and Review of the SPT Exhaust for the 2011 WRX 5 Door Hatch xluben Car Part Reviews 26 11-08-2012 06:55 PM
My first post and my first Subaru, a 2011 WRX 5 door in white. Decade240 Newbies & FAQs 25 06-20-2012 01:48 PM
2011 wrx 5 door hatch with Rota 17"x7.5 +48 5x100 wheels? BretCutler Tire & Wheel 4 01-14-2011 08:05 AM
2011 WRX 5 Door Ruz4life General Community 55 10-13-2010 11:37 PM
2011 WRX 5 Door Ruz4life General Community 10 10-04-2010 04:02 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.