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Old 12-24-2012, 01:30 PM   #1
DaKy87
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Default Need help im throwing code: P0244 Turbocharger Wastegate Solenoid A Range/Performance

Wanted to see what I could get for some advice on this issue. Earlier today I been driving and fully opened my 09 wrx and when I got around 6k Rpms I noticed a loud pop sound kinda like a backfire around my turbo area. And noticed my CEL came on. So I went through my Cobb AP to check the code and got the PO224 code. I erased the code and reset my ECU. I haven't gotten the code again. But I have been to worried to open it up I just drove normally the rest of my drive. I have noticed my boost gauge reads almost to 22 pounds at full boost. And the Cobb stage 2 map I'm on tells me it's suppose to be at 18psi at peak. Anyway well just hoping that someone can come across this and see what they think or give some advice to me. Thanks

Reading boost off a turbosmart digital series boost gauge.

Engine Mods list:
TurboXS cat-back exaust
Perrin catted downpipe
Perrin intake
Turbosmart BOV
Cobb Access Port - stage 2 93 octane - AEM
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Old 12-24-2012, 04:35 PM   #2
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Sounds like Boost Creep to me, careful in what gear you get into boost with dont want to floor it in 4th or 5th as this could cause boost creep.

I think cobb has a low wastegate duty cycle map and a high wastegate duty cycle map. I think you should try the high wastegate duty cycle map, see if your in line with the target boost(I may be wrong) I am sure someone else will chime in.
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Old 12-24-2012, 05:52 PM   #3
DaKy87
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Appreciate the reply, I'm not savy on a lot of the mechanics side of turbos n all. So just wondering what could boost creep end up doing if I've ran like that for a little while? Cause I've had it on stage 2 AP map, with the DP for a few months now and I have ran it fully boost quite a bit. Haven't had it throw the code at me, it just did it today and kinda thinking I may have done some damage somewhere.
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Old 12-24-2012, 08:41 PM   #4
424wrx
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po244 is a overboost/wastegate solenoid code. it happened to me in colder temps when accelerating in higher gears. had my tune adjusted and it never happened again. i see 22 psi on my vf52 map and all is good now.
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:12 AM   #5
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Over boosted for the first time. It's scary. You built more boost then your car was tuned for due to cold conditions, and to compensate the ecu our you into limp mode
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:45 PM   #6
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I've done this before and it scared me as well the first time. Downshifted to 5th at like 60mph and stepped on it to overboost
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Old 12-26-2012, 10:08 PM   #7
DaKy87
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yeah, i tired using the over the shelf cobb AP stage 2 map with the low wastegate. and im still over boosting. figured i might have a line thats busted or disconnected somewhere now. maybe i need to get a custom tune.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:00 AM   #8
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The vf52 on a catless downpipe will have a tendency to overboost with cooler denser air. If you've switched to the lower waste gate duty cycle map and you are still over boosting it's likely that you are experiencing true boost creep which cannot be fixed by a tune. The last fix I'd try before spending a bunch of money on it would be to get an after market boodt control solenoid, a 3-port one, and get a custom tune for the car to see if that helps. Also don't go WOT in any gear higher then 3rd on the 5mt and you shouldn't see spikes that high. If after the tune you are still speaking and hitting the limit causing P0244 then you'll need to invest in an external wastegate as this is the only real fix to a true creep/spike issue. You can try porting the IWG, but in my experience it wasn't a complete fix.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:32 AM   #9
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You won't want to hear this, but put your STOCK INTAKE back on if you're using the COBB STGII. Cobb STGII is not designed for having a CAI, though sometimes you can get by with one IF you run the higher wastegate map.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:34 AM   #10
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Otherwise the best course of action, especially if you plan on higher numbers in the future is to have your turbos wastegate ported and get a 3 port BCS as mentioned above, also these changes will require a protune.
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Old 12-27-2012, 11:59 AM   #11
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ill be going to a pro shop here soon to get things checked out. just a bummer to be running into this problem(like somebody said, "stage 2 problems" lol). so since i did throw the code and heard that loud pop could anything of possibly damaged itself when it does that?
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:01 PM   #12
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Doubtful that anything was damaged, but it depends what the boost limit was set to. With an OTS stage2 map I'd imagine it would be pretty low (maybe 20 or 21psi, but you can look at the map notes and I bet it would be in there [i run OS so I don't have much experience with the AP). What happened was a fail safe the ecu has set in place in order to prevent damage from massive over boosting.

As long as no hoses popped off or anything like that I bet you didn't do any damage to the car.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:45 AM   #13
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i have the same problem. i've got a full Perrin TBE, stock everything else. i throw it fairly often (maybe 3-4 times. i'm obivously not TRYING to. haha.) makes it really hard to run against any of my friends. every time i get in a 'race' (this is NOT OFTEN), i hit that code. pretty annoying. waiting for intake, turbo inlet and new BPV until i get full pro tune. but the LWG map still won't do anything.
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Old 01-08-2013, 04:42 AM   #14
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Yeah I had the same thing happen to my '08. The cold air is what makes it really show up! Cold air is a turbo's best friend but can still be an enemy. Haha. And yeah those boost patterns are usually higher in the higher gears which is why it shows up then. I've seen some Subie teks suggest to just increase the tune program to where the car allows for those higher boost limits without throwing your light. Obviously not a "fix" but its what I've heard suggested. Mine is pretty much bone stock with the Cobb intake. Had it on the car for a few months and ran fine even in 5th in WOT but as soon as it got cold out, I can't get past 90mph in 5th in WOT without the CEL coming on. Mistake I made though (found out well after I bought it) was that the Cobb intake required a tune no matter how mild or aggressive my mods were. So needless to say I put the stock intake back on and (understandably) that thing runs far better stock than it did with the intake and no tune! No more engine buck/turbo lag! And I'm not feeling up to spending 600 bucks on a tuner at this point in time until my warranty runs out. Hahaha.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:34 AM   #15
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Advice for everyone:
  • Do NOT go WOT in 5th gear at 90mph. Ever. You shouldn't be WOT in 5th gear unless you're going 130MPH. WOT at low RPM's and high gear puts a lot of stress on the motor, and is also very likely to overboost. Stop being lazy and downshift!
  • Get a real tune. The off the shelf tunes are OK, but they are never the best. If you're overboosting, then use the Low Wastegate Tune that COBB offers. But really, just get an actual tune.
There are 3 things that contribute to uncrontrollable (ie. no amount of tuning can fix) boost creep on these cars:
  1. Free flowing downpipe
  2. Free flowing intake
  3. Cold weather
Some cars seem OK with all 3 of these, but some will have issues with just 2, or even 1 of them present. The best thing to do is start by getting a real tune. If this does not help, you have 3 choices.
  1. External wastegate
  2. Port the internal wastegate
  3. Remove one of the free flowing intake/exhaust parts and put on something more restrictive
The last one is usually the cheapest (just put a stock part back on), but if you really want the best flow and still keep your boost control then something has to change in the stock internal wastegate system. Either it needs to be opened up, or you need to bypass it with and external wastegate. Both of these are pretty expensive and do require tuning.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:53 AM   #16
SeeeeeYa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaKy87 View Post
Wanted to see what I could get for some advice on this issue. Earlier today I been driving and fully opened my 09 wrx and when I got around 6k Rpms I noticed a loud pop sound kinda like a backfire around my turbo area. And noticed my CEL came on. So I went through my Cobb AP to check the code and got the PO224 code. I erased the code and reset my ECU. I haven't gotten the code again. But I have been to worried to open it up I just drove normally the rest of my drive. I have noticed my boost gauge reads almost to 22 pounds at full boost. And the Cobb stage 2 map I'm on tells me it's suppose to be at 18psi at peak. Anyway well just hoping that someone can come across this and see what they think or give some advice to me. Thanks

Reading boost off a turbosmart digital series boost gauge.

Engine Mods list:
TurboXS cat-back exaust
Perrin catted downpipe
Perrin intake
Turbosmart BOV
Cobb Access Port - stage 2 93 octane - AEM
Be prepared for an engine rebuild... for more than one reason.

First because whoever put the mods together didn't follow directions... Cobb AEM tune with a Perrin intake, for example.

Secondly, watching a gauge repeatedly indicate 22psi of boost on an 18psi tune,
* then continued operation with the wrong tune for the parts,
* excessive boost that is bad enough to trigger CELs,
* and failure to DATALOG so you would KNOW the knock level you are doubtlessly experiencing. Instead you rely on a keyboard and forum input while you are killing your engine.

Apparently you are new to this car, since it's an '09 and you just "fully opened" it up. I'd also guess you also don't know the extent of its total modifications nor its prior use.

With a catted downpipe and the proper Cobb tune for the mods your car should not have boost creep... I didn't with my '11 WRX which is the same car. HOWEVER, some people have documented boost creep with any intake other than stock at low temperaturres.

Good luck. Datalog and post to get people's help. Put the stock intake system back on. Ensure your boost controls are STOCK and all hoses connected and secure... OVERBOOSTING WILL KILL THE MOTOR.

Edit: xluben's reply during my typing nails it, as usual.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:07 PM   #17
tac79phoenix
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So WOT in 5th or 6th is bad for the car. Not being ignorant, but is having it at about 3/4 throttle gonna kill it? I know shifting isn't a pain at all but if I know i can get by someone in 5th by just kissing that throttle a little more, that shouldn't be bad for it I would assume, right? I know I wouldn't flat foot it to get it from 60-100 but driving at 70 in 5th down the highway, you're right in the start of that boost range so you don't need much throttle for that turbo to start pulling you past that annoying left lane Sunday driver. Haha.
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
Advice for everyone:
  • Do NOT go WOT in 5th gear at 90mph. Ever. You shouldn't be WOT in 5th gear unless you're going 130MPH. WOT at low RPM's and high gear puts a lot of stress on the motor, and is also very likely to overboost. Stop being lazy and downshift!
  • Get a real tune. The off the shelf tunes are OK, but they are never the best. If you're overboosting, then use the Low Wastegate Tune that COBB offers. But really, just get an actual tune.
There are 3 things that contribute to uncrontrollable (ie. no amount of tuning can fix) boost creep on these cars:
  1. Free flowing downpipe
  2. Free flowing intake
  3. Cold weather
Some cars seem OK with all 3 of these, but some will have issues with just 2, or even 1 of them present. The best thing to do is start by getting a real tune. If this does not help, you have 3 choices.
  1. External wastegate
  2. Port the internal wastegate
  3. Remove one of the free flowing intake/exhaust parts and put on something more restrictive
The last one is usually the cheapest (just put a stock part back on), but if you really want the best flow and still keep your boost control then something has to change in the stock internal wastegate system. Either it needs to be opened up, or you need to bypass it with and external wastegate. Both of these are pretty expensive and do require tuning.
Great advice and good information Xluben. Every car is different and will respond to mods differently. The OTS Stage 2 map is very generic. In this case, the colder weather and denser air is causing an overboost condition. OP, i'd rid that intake until you got a protune as well. The stage 2 OTS map in the map notes suggests you use the STOCK intake, unless you have an AEM intake, or a Cobb SF intake, which there are maps for on cobbs website. I'd also rid that BOV, there is no reason why you need a BOV for a simple stage 2 car as it makes for a rich condition during shifts and after coming to a stop after cruise.

If you swap the intake back to stock and you are STILL having an overboost issue, you can go on Cobb's website and download the Stage 2 LWG map that is applicible to your year make and model. This map has a lower waste gate duty cycle then the regular Stage 2 OTS map. This should help with over boost until the winter is over, or until you receive a protune. Get rid of the intake until a protune and rid the BOV indefinitely. Cheers.

EDIT:
Xluben is also correct about WOT in the higher gears. Not only does overboost occur, but due to the higher engine load, if one knock event occurs, that's all she wrote for either a rod bearing or your ringlands.

Last edited by sexyyrex; 01-08-2013 at 03:51 PM.
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