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Old 01-30-2012, 02:16 AM   #326
ggixxer599
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from my experience, and ive done 2 swaps, you cannot get to that line without removing the DP. Then it is almost impossible to "Slip" that line on without raising the turbo up.. PM me with any other questions

Chris
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:46 AM   #327
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Ok so from what i read maybe someone can shed some light on me here

Just swapped the vf39 into the 02wrx

•Used the stock pill

•Havent changed the injectors yet

•My oil feed line fit ok dont know why it needs modification

•stock tmic willlll not allow the tmic to throttle body coupler to fit correctly

•Reflashing to stage 3 once injectors are ordered (currently running stage 2 cobb ap)

I know i went into this blind but i know a good bit up intil the little things like this

Soy if anyone could point me in the right direction i would more than greatly appreciate it !!

Thanks Alots guys!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:12 PM   #328
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I plan on attempting the swap this weekend; how long should I expect to be at it and are there any helpful tips?
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:23 PM   #329
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I spent about 8 hours at it but that was including lunch and taking my sweet ass time. I was in no hurry (and this was my first time doing it). I probably spent the most time on the top feed banjo bolt. You'll have to bend it just right to get it to thread on the 39. You might also want an extra long needle nose pliers (maybe the kind with a slight angle) to help get the clamp on the hose for the drain feed line. I was able to get up in there without one but it would have helped to have the right tool. There are a few other tips throughout the thread but you have to read it in its entirety. Good luck!

Last edited by flimflamman; 01-14-2013 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:13 PM   #330
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Thanks for this writeup.
It sure helped this weekend while I attempted to help a friend swap his stock turbo to a "rebuilt" VF39 that he bought off a member.

Unfortunately do to the world's worst rebuild, we had to replace it with another bone stock turbo instead of the upgrade, but this writeup got me through the weekend.

Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:10 AM   #331
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Fluids topic:
Do you need to drain the oil and coolant completely for install?
I was thinking of just clamping the coolant line to turbo from the top resevoir. And if i dont drain the oil, will all the oil leak out as you unbolt the feed lines.

Read the threads and didnt get a clear explanation on this.
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Old 05-29-2013, 09:00 AM   #332
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You do not need to drain anything. Just need rags to catch the small amount that leaks out (although you'll want a plug ready for the coolant line) and enough fluids to top everything back off.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:40 AM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solarin006 View Post
Just wanted to add a tip. If you pull the oil return line off of the block and attach it to the turbo, you can position the hose much easier where it connects to the block than where it connects to the turbo.

You can either (from the top) wrap a hand around the back/underside of the uppipe, or from underneath, fit one hand on the left through the subframe and one hand around the other side of the uppipe.

Much easier then trying to get the hose onto the turbo drain and having no room to reach it.
Im going to try this method tomorrow. I had my vf39 turbo installed but was unhappy with how the hose to the turbo oil return line was slightly fitted on. I unbolted my uppipe thinking i could squeeze my hand in there to fit the hose on better, but ended up taking my vf39 back off and went to the parts store to buy a hose clamp to clamp the hose to the turbo securely and then will push the hose and turbo down on to the block.

I usually am impatient about things, and the return hose is the only thing that really is most difficult.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:45 AM   #334
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickarub View Post
Anyone had problems getting the bottom oil drain line to go in? I Lready installed the turbo and have everything bolted up and started her up and.... Oil on the friend everywhere. Ugh. Is there any way to get to it with uninstalling everything over again?!
Not that know of,..
I tried from up top, under the car, by unbolting the uppipe, but ended up taking the turbo off again,..

If you take the up pipe complete off and out from the car, i suppose you can get more room from underneath. But to reach the very top of the turbo return pipe is near impossible.
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:33 AM   #335
abakja1
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So Im just about finishing up and got the STI intercooler to install and reflash with Cobb OTS VF39 map. I have this part on the table that I dont know where it belongs as Im picking up my install from last weekend,

Anyone know where this goes?

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Old 08-26-2013, 02:47 AM   #336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abakja1 View Post
So Im just about finishing up and got the STI intercooler to install and reflash with Cobb OTS VF39 map. I have this part on the table that I dont know where it belongs as Im picking up my install from last weekend, Anyone know where this goes?
I actually have the same thing laying around after I did my swap a few days ago too.. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:56 AM   #337
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Looks like a Heat Shield Bracket
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:11 AM   #338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zman519 View Post
Looks like a Heat Shield Bracket
Thats what i think too,..im thinking that it bolts in the driver side of the turbo and maybe to the uppipe. If that is so, im not taking everything off to reinstall. Im going to,search more threads for pictures in case im wrong.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:27 AM   #339
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I'm almost positive it's not the heat shield for the turbo. I had mine removed months ago when I swapped my down pipe.
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Old 08-26-2013, 03:46 AM   #340
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https://www.grimmspeed.com/install_g...eld_subaru.pdf

Found the thread and part can be seen on page 3 of the grimmspeed pdf. Its the lower heat shiled bracket. I already got my turbo bolted on, so im not going to reinstall this piece.
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:01 AM   #341
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So that piece is not needed, correct?
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Old 08-26-2013, 04:58 AM   #342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lolsteven View Post
So that piece is not needed, correct?
Yes it is needed. It bolts the turbo uppipe side flange to the cylinder head. Minimizes the movement of turbo and uppipe etc. The heat shield bolt threads are there too but I always cut the heat shield so nothing is connected there.
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Old 08-26-2013, 07:04 AM   #343
abakja1
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Good picture of it here on post #2.
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/engine...-pictures.html

I dont know if its needed as with the downpipe installed against the turbo and uppipe bolted to the bottom exhaust manifold, the turbo isnt moving anywhere. Think its more to have a point to bolt your turbo exhaust shield to, but IMO,....

If its still accessible, ill reinstall it,., if not,..never mind,.
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Old 08-26-2013, 08:54 AM   #344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imppu2001wrx View Post

Yes it is needed. It bolts the turbo uppipe side flange to the cylinder head. Minimizes the movement of turbo and uppipe etc. The heat shield bolt threads are there too but I always cut the heat shield so nothing is connected there.
Yup it mounts to the uppipe then to the head. It's needed unless you want your uppipe and turbo dangling and possibly crack a weld from the uppipe
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:44 PM   #345
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Ok, still accessible and put back in,..took me 5 minutes.
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Old 08-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #346
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Here are a few things that I remember that might help:
1. Definitely use a hose clamp or vise grip to pinch the upper coolant hose before taking it off the turbo. It will minimize the amount of coolant spill for both upper and lower hoses.
2. Using a 3/8ths" extention as a plug will stop the coolant hoses from spilling anything more.
3. Definitely use a worm type hose clamp on upper part of oil return line attached to turbo. It will reassure you that its on the turbo tightly, and all you gotta do is push oil return hose on to the bottom pipe which is a lot easier to access with your hands to get the spring clamp on.
4. Use of a awl or long pick with a blunt angle on it really helps getting the turbo intake hose and al those tight silicone hoses on.
5. If you unbolt and leave your downpipe hanging, be sure to unplug the o2 sensor at the harness so it wont hang by the wires or worse, pull em off.
6. Help of a friend would make things easier with an extra pair of hands and eyes.

Good luck!

Last edited by abakja1; 08-27-2013 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 08-27-2013, 10:47 PM   #347
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My fxt is fighting me all the way with this install.

Primed the turbo and saw a little leak so I tightened the banjo bolt on the top of the turbo a little more. Started the car to burp coolant and oil spewed out like Mt. Vesuvius!!!,

I used new copper washers and the original banjo bolt from my td04. Do i need to use the banjo bolt from the vf39? it looks a little different only by the head of the bolt size which is smaller.. Dont know why its leaking bad, but it wasnt a slow leak,,...it poured out,..
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:08 PM   #348
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I would use the banjo bolt that came with the turbo. I just swapped a VF43 in my RS and used the same banjo bolt that I used on the TD04 without issues. Did you cross thread something by chance? I know it sounds stupid but did you forget to put a washer on both sides of the feed line or is there something there keeping it from sealing properly?
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Old 08-28-2013, 12:59 AM   #349
abakja1
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Ill will have to take the banjo bolt off anyways, so Ill sway the one that came with the VF39 back on it. Im sure I put copper washer on both side, but will find out once I take the bolt off.

Also, since I primed the turbo, will there be any pressure in the oil line when taking off the banjo bolt? ie excessive leakage?
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:39 PM   #350
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It'll drip a little but nothing major. Maybe 1-2 mL's
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