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Old 01-07-2013, 11:55 PM   #4376
climbhigh09
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I work with harsh environment designs all the time and have seen nylon lock nuts fail fairly often. The interior of the car isn't too bad- no solar or solvents, but the temp range is fairly broad and cycles daily. So, no nylon locks on my scoobs if I can avoid it, loc-tite or a different mechanical stop-gap.

You should be able to google the clutch throw adjustment pretty easily. I know I saw it in the tech site, but it doesn't look like I saved that page.

Nice save with the fam in tow.
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:03 AM   #4377
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Originally Posted by climbhigh09 View Post
I work with harsh environment designs all the time and have seen nylon lock nuts fail fairly often. The interior of the car isn't too bad- no solar or solvents, but the temp range is fairly broad and cycles daily. So, no nylon locks on my scoobs if I can avoid it, loc-tite or a different mechanical stop-gap.

You should be able to google the clutch throw adjustment pretty easily. I know I saw it in the tech site, but it doesn't look like I saved that page.

Nice save with the fam in tow.
Thanks for the input. The interior of the car isn't a very harsh environment, so I'm not too worried about it. The temp inside the car can dip a bit below freezing in the winter, and may get up to 100F or a little higher in the summer, but during operation the driver foot area is going to be very well controlled in the 70F range. Overall I don't think that is too extreme.

The only real stress it will see is vibration and the nylon should do fine against that. Over time I suppose it could dry out, harden, and crack, but I think that is a long ways off. I'll definitely keep an eye on it, and loctite it in place if need be. I adjusted the linkage on the rod, but I didn't use any guide. I just did what seemed right.

I'll have an update on the work I did tonight in a few minute here...
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:35 AM   #4378
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Tonight I fixed up the clutch linkage for good (I hope). First, I went out and bought a new shoulder bolt that was the correct length (and a new nylon locking nut).



It is a 1/2" long shoulder with a 5/16" shoulder diameter and the size is perfect for this application. It actually works better than the OEM rod. The OEM rod is 3/4" long and about 5/16" OD (actually seems a hair smaller). The cotter pin reduces the working length of the rod to 5/8". This results in about 1/8" of side-to-side slop in the linkage.



And after looking at the OEM design a little more, I have determined that the cotter pin holds the rod in place, and the plastic piece (shown in the photo above) acts as a secondary attachment method in case the cotter pin fails. I have a feeling that my cotter pin broke long ago, and this little piece of plastic has been holding it together since then.


^(I just realized I put the wrench and allen key on the wrong sides in this photo. Oops)

I found that the width of the linkage in the car (non removable) is basically identical to the open end of the 7/16" wrench I was using. I used a table vice and this wrench to bend the U bracket back into the correct shape/width and straighten it out.

As seen in the pictures from yesterday it used to be much, much wider than it needed to be, and it was also quite crooked (even after straightening it a bit). Before I straightened it at all (when it failed) it had a severe bend (close to 45 degrees) and was spread apart even wider than yesterday's photos.



The 1/2" length of the new shoulder bolt is basically perfect. The nut tightens down onto the shoulder of the bolt without actually putting any tension on the linkage, so there is zero binding. But there is very minimal free space (much less than OEM), so much less side-to-side movement is possible.



Once I had it all straightened out the way I wanted I put it back in the car. I threaded the U joint on until the holes in the U joint and the hole in the linkage lined up if the clutch was fully released, and the MC rod was fully extended. This puts the clutch engagement point near the middle of the pedal travel. Much better than near the floor like it had been.



Getting the locking nut tightened down onto the back of the U bracket was quite a task. With very little room to work with I ended up using a 13mm crow's foot, 2" extension, universal swivel joint, 8" extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet all connected together. This did work and it should be locked in place now. Locking this down would be much easier to do with the MC removed from the car.



You can see that it is all very straight and there is barely any room for side to side motion. In the photos the nut is tightened down on to the shoulder of the bolt, but there is still a tiny bit of room on either side of the linkages, so that they don't bind at all.



This is how this linkage should have been connected from the factory. It has much less side-to-side movement possible and won't fail like the OEM cotter pin and plastic nub did. Subaru just wanted to save a few dollars and went with the cheaper, and easier to assemble method of connecting the linkage. I happened to look over and see that the brake uses the same connection...



The rod and cotter pin setup is identical to the clutch linkage. You can see the side-to-side slop that is possible here. I may want to preemptively replace this at some point. Right now it still looks fine. I honestly don't think it's likely to fail unless it is assembled incorrectly (as the clutch could have been since the dealer replaced the MC). I did notice that the U bracket on the brake appears to be hardened vs. the softer clutch U bracket, so it should be a lot less likely to bend.

Parts Used: 5/16" OD Shoulder Bolt with 1/2" Shoulder Length and Accompanying Nylon Locking Nut
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:42 AM   #4379
FLEX'N WRX
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Glad that annoyance was dealt with. Definitely improved linkage.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:17 AM   #4380
climbhigh09
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Actually, the temp in your car (even with your new tint and northern location) probably breaches 200 in the summer; hence all the dead dogs in cars. Still well within the nylon rating though. And no one gets hurt if that part fails (as you demonstrated already), so it's nbd. Just don't put one on your steering linkage too ;-)

Sure seems like the fella the replaced your master bent the hell out of that bracket to get it out and did a half a$$ job putting it back together. It's hard for someone who does that work everyday to be as dedicated to your car as you will be, assuming the skill is comparable between you and him. I can't even take my car in for an oil change anymore- too many minor mistakes like that just end up taking more of my time to correct than it's worth (spillage, overfills, stripped pan, etc.).
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:01 AM   #4381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLEX'N WRX View Post
Glad that annoyance was dealt with. Definitely improved linkage.
I agree. It's better than before, and I got the adjustment much better too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by climbhigh09 View Post
Actually, the temp in your car (even with your new tint and northern location) probably breaches 200 in the summer; hence all the dead dogs in cars. Still well within the nylon rating though. And no one gets hurt if that part fails (as you demonstrated already), so it's nbd. Just don't put one on your steering linkage too ;-)

Sure seems like the fella the replaced your master bent the hell out of that bracket to get it out and did a half a$$ job putting it back together. It's hard for someone who does that work everyday to be as dedicated to your car as you will be, assuming the skill is comparable between you and him. I can't even take my car in for an oil change anymore- too many minor mistakes like that just end up taking more of my time to correct than it's worth (spillage, overfills, stripped pan, etc.).
I usually crack my windows on the hot days if I park outside, so it is rarely unbearably hot in my car, but I suppose some high temps are possible. Unlikely it would be anything that would cause a failure of that locking bolt though.

I agree about having other people work on your car. I believe this was the first and last time that someone else did any work on my car. I cringe to think what goes on behind closed doors at any shop...
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:26 PM   #4382
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We get a good laugh at the **** people do to their cars

Wonder how the **** they can't tell something is seriously wrong with their cars

deal with parts that are bad from the factory

Work on cars that are trash pits

Work on cars that if we leave a finger print on they get pissed. Sorry guys its a shop we aren't gonna do a full detail on a 39 dollar oil change

Techs that damage things get fired rather quickly at our shop
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:30 AM   #4383
xluben
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Anyone have thoughts on the Harman Motive / AQ Motorsports exhaust? It looks really nice, but I don't see much info on it. Looks to be fairly similar to the Nameless. I might be interested in trying one of those two.

I hate how Nameless has crap for photos on their website. You have to try and sift through their Facebook page or through hundreds of forum posts to try and actually see photos of the different configuration options.

I really don't know why I want a new exhaust. I like the GReddy a lot. I'm just always curious to try something else...
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:32 AM   #4384
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Anyone have thoughts on the Harman Motive / AQ Motorsports exhaust? It looks really nice, but I don't see much info on it. Looks to be fairly similar to the Nameless. I might be interested in trying one of those two.

I hate how Nameless has crap for photos on their website. You have to try and sift through their Facebook page or through hundreds of forum posts to try and actually see photos of the different configuration options.

I really don't know why I want a new exhaust. I like the GReddy a lot. I'm just always curious to try something else...
Well I can say with first hand experience now that the Nameless hatch exhaust sounds awesome. My brother has a 12 hatch

He actually got the muffler delete, he only has the axleback as of now, but there is 0 drone and it sounds great.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:35 AM   #4385
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I think people have a different definition of drone/noise. There's no way I'd ever consider their muffler delete or even their 4" or 5" mufflers. I'm only considering the Magnaflow option which is supposedly very quiet.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:45 AM   #4386
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I think people have a different definition of drone/noise. There's no way I'd ever consider their muffler delete or even their 4" or 5" mufflers. I'm only considering the Magnaflow option which is supposedly very quiet.
Oh for sure man. I actually considered his muffler delete to pretty quiet... Considering I have their catback with no mufflers and a catless downpipe

The magnaflow is supposedly super quiet, and I can honestly say that the quality of their items are second to none man. I can get my brother to take some pics of his when he gets a chance if you'd like. He got the 3.5" double walled staggered tips, and they protrude about 2" or so beyond the black part of the bumper. Looks sick
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:36 AM   #4387
xluben
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Oh for sure man. I actually considered his muffler delete to pretty quiet... Considering I have their catback with no mufflers and a catless downpipe

The magnaflow is supposedly super quiet, and I can honestly say that the quality of their items are second to none man. I can get my brother to take some pics of his when he gets a chance if you'd like. He got the 3.5" double walled staggered tips, and they protrude about 2" or so beyond the black part of the bumper. Looks sick
I haven't actually heard the Nameless muffler delete, but I've heard the one with their small mufflers and it wasn't quiet. I've also heard no axle back at all, and with just a turn down pipe. Neither of those sounded good either.

I'm interested to see the 3.5" staggered, double wall tips. Those would be my preference. If you could point me to them, rather than post them in this thread, that would be great. These are the types of photos they should have on their site! And on-car to see fitment.

I absolutely do NOT want them to stick out 2" past the bumper! I don't like when they stick out at all honestly.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #4388
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I haven't actually heard the Nameless muffler delete, but I've heard the one with their small mufflers and it wasn't quiet. I've also heard no axle back at all, and with just a turn down pipe. Neither of those sounded good either.

I'm interested to see the 3.5" staggered, double wall tips. Those would be my preference. If you could point me to them, rather than post them in this thread, that would be great. These are the types of photos they should have on their site! And on-car to see fitment.

I absolutely do NOT want them to stick out 2" past the bumper! I don't like when they stick out at all honestly.
Terribly sorry Ben, when I was describing the looks of his this morning, I was looking down at his car from the top floor of our house haha they do not stick out at all, they are flush with the valence hahaha ill get him to take some good pictures when we get a chance to clean our cars and we can post them here for you
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:59 PM   #4389
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My friend has the Harman one on his 11 hatch. he also has equal length headers, I think it sounds nice myself, no rasp and is not too loud for a daily driver IMO . I believe his name is Zzyzx on here, what info would you like.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:00 PM   #4390
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For reference, I too am not a fan of the muffler delete. I'm guessing we have similar tastes in exhaust sound.
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Old 01-14-2013, 03:21 PM   #4391
xluben
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Terribly sorry Ben, when I was describing the looks of his this morning, I was looking down at his car from the top floor of our house haha they do not stick out at all, they are flush with the valence hahaha ill get him to take some good pictures when we get a chance to clean our cars and we can post them here for you
That makes more sense. I thought Nameless was usually pretty flush. I'm just not a fan of them sticking out. It seems that most aftermarket ones do a little.

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Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
My friend has the Harman one on his 11 hatch. he also has equal length headers, I think it sounds nice myself, no rasp and is not too loud for a daily driver IMO . I believe his name is Zzyzx on here, what info would you like.
I'm curious about fitment, build quality, and sound. How does it compare to others out there? I looks pretty nice, but I don't know much about fitment or sound. I put an AQ Motorsports (same as Harman Motive) downpipe on my brother's car and I thought it was really nice.

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For reference, I too am not a fan of the muffler delete. I'm guessing we have similar tastes in exhaust sound.
Yeah, I just don't think it sounds very good. It's loud, but not ridiculous, but the sound quality is just off to me.
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Old 01-14-2013, 04:55 PM   #4392
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As far as fitment goes, I believe one if his sides sticks out more than the other but my q300 does that as well. My be able to adjust it though. I will get some info for you tomorrow when I see him. Try to snag you some pics also. He is happy with it though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:07 PM   #4393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
As far as fitment goes, I believe one if his sides sticks out more than the other but my q300 does that as well. My be able to adjust it though. I will get some info for you tomorrow when I see him. Try to snag you some pics also. He is happy with it though.
I've seen that a couple times, even on OEM. Just play with the hangers until its even
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:13 PM   #4394
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Yeah, that's what I did with mine. Might be able to get a sound clip tomorrow too, I don't think he will nor would I ask him to rev it at the meet, but I can get one at idle and driving off maybe. I'll see what I can do.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:55 PM   #4395
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I hate when the don't stick out evenly. That's one of the main reasons I'd rather not have them stick out at all. When it's flush you really can't tell if they're not perfectly even. Most exhausts you can fiddle with and get them pretty close, but some are worse than others.

Have him rev it up and bang off the rev limiter for a while! Everyone will think he's cool!
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:59 PM   #4396
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Preview of a new mod from tonight. More photos tomorrow.



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Old 01-15-2013, 12:31 AM   #4397
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That's awesome. I can't wait for the detailed write up on that!
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Old 01-15-2013, 12:32 AM   #4398
SuaveCougarBait
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^ I'm in this boat
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Old 01-15-2013, 10:06 AM   #4399
xluben
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Here's a link to the VG Shark Fin Antenna Install photos:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2455581

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Old 01-15-2013, 10:23 PM   #4400
xluben
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I grabbed my camera after work a took a some shots before it got dark. These are what I came up with. From my normal (low) angles you can barely even see the shark fin from the front, so most of the shots are from the rear. I really like how it flows with the car. Definitely better than the OEM antenna (IMO).













Hard to believe this is the same car as the cell phone pics from earlier. It's amazing what a real camera/lens and a few hours of editing can do! I took exactly 100 shots and each of the shots above is a composite of 5-10 images (multiple polarizations).
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