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Old 01-20-2013, 07:55 AM   #1
Sid03SVT
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Question 300awhp goal

Hey all, I've chewed through a bunch of stickys and posts by others, and here is what I think I need to make about 300awhp, I'd appreciate some feedback.

Goals - about 300awhp, keep the TMIC, - I want it to look and sound stock (until you open the hood of course).

Car - 2006 WRX wagon, 5MT 57k miles

Planned Upgrades:
Turbo - VF39/43/48 (all basically the same)
TMIC - either 06/07 STi w/splitter or TurboXS TMIC and keep wrx splitter (better option from what I read)
DP - COBB catted
TBE - stock (unless there is something that is as quiet as stock, please inform me)
EBCS - grimmspeed 3-port
Fuel pump - stock (I've read they are good for this power level)
Injectors - stock (I've read they are good for this level)
Protune

Am I missing anything? other suggestions?

This car is my DD, so I don't want it to be loud, I don't want the power to be too peaky hence the turbo's I've listed. 300awhp is my goal, if I'm 275 thats fine, I don't absolutely have to hit 300, I need reliability more than I need 25 peak hp.

As far as the stock clutch - will it handle the power for a while with moderate driving? I know thats a pretty hard question to answer, I guess I'm looking for the experiance of other 06/07 owneres that have gone this route. I know about the transmission issues, but with the way I drive, I'm not particularly worried aobut that, again, it's my DD.

I should mention that I'm 29 so the right pedal spends more time away from the floor than near it. I actually get what I consider to be "good" fuel economy at 25.5mpg, and that was with tires that were at 27psif/25psir which I have since adjusted.

I also have some suspension modifications planned as well, but this isn't the place for them.

I appreciate any help I can get here, sorry about the word fort I tend to e-ramble.
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Old 01-20-2013, 08:13 AM   #2
funk32
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read here and this should help guide you.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2456767
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Old 01-20-2013, 11:39 AM   #3
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Suspension goes a long way, I would consider going that route before overloading the suspension with power. Your goal depends on the dyno, read unabombers manifesto. You will probably take some flak for this thread, you gotta search my friend!
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid03SVT View Post
Hey all, I've chewed through a bunch of stickys and posts by others, and here is what I think I need to make about 300awhp, I'd appreciate some feedback.

Goals - about 300awhp, keep the TMIC, - I want it to look and sound stock (until you open the hood of course).

Car - 2006 WRX wagon, 5MT 57k miles

Planned Upgrades:
Turbo - VF39/43/48 (all basically the same)
TMIC - either 06/07 STi w/splitter or TurboXS TMIC and keep wrx splitter (better option from what I read)
DP - COBB catted
TBE - stock (unless there is something that is as quiet as stock, please inform me)
EBCS - grimmspeed 3-port
Fuel pump - stock (I've read they are good for this power level)
Injectors - stock (I've read they are good for this level)
Protune

Am I missing anything? other suggestions?

This car is my DD, so I don't want it to be loud, I don't want the power to be too peaky hence the turbo's I've listed. 300awhp is my goal, if I'm 275 thats fine, I don't absolutely have to hit 300, I need reliability more than I need 25 peak hp.

As far as the stock clutch - will it handle the power for a while with moderate driving? I know thats a pretty hard question to answer, I guess I'm looking for the experiance of other 06/07 owneres that have gone this route. I know about the transmission issues, but with the way I drive, I'm not particularly worried aobut that, again, it's my DD.

I should mention that I'm 29 so the right pedal spends more time away from the floor than near it. I actually get what I consider to be "good" fuel economy at 25.5mpg, and that was with tires that were at 27psif/25psir which I have since adjusted.

I also have some suspension modifications planned as well, but this isn't the place for them.

I appreciate any help I can get here, sorry about the word fort I tend to e-ramble.
If your looking for cost effective+future upgrade I would look into the following.
Cobb AP for tuning data logging ect
vf39
sti top mount
Cobb turbo back

tuning wise the cobb ap you can download a base map if you get the exact parts list i just listed and you should be good
https://static.cobbtuning.com/cobbtu...06-07_VF39.pdf


---


using the ap OTS map saves you $150-450 depending on your tuner and may not make as much power but generally with some careful data logs its easy to find out that on most peoples cars these cobb maps are very conservative and safe

I am running a Cobb turbo back on my 05 saabaru and its sounds a little louder then stock when you really get on it but sounds good and is defiantly the quietest exhaust available for our cars from what i have seen
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:12 PM   #5
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My 07 puts down 302/347

Mod list

Vf39
Sti top mount
GS EBCS
Walbro 255
Perrin v2 inlet
Perrin catted downpipe
Borla XR1 3"
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Old 01-20-2013, 01:31 PM   #6
wrxstage2
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My 06 put down 283/340

Vf48
Walboro 255
2012 sti inter cooler and splitter
Cobb ap
Cobb dp and Cobb catback
Cobb sf intake
Sti bpv
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Old 01-20-2013, 02:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32 View Post
read here and this should help guide you.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2456767
This...
Do a VF43, Walbro 255, Grimmspeed exhaust manifold, catless dp, Cobb cbe, a lightweight crank pulley, and a EBC
You should have no problem getting 300
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:07 PM   #8
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Default 300whp

My 05 STI has a stk motor, turbo, TMIC with following mods and makes 290 whp on a Dynojet. You can squeeze another 10-15 hp out of it by adding an uppipe and CIA + re-tune.

Upgrades:
Cobb TBE
Maddad UEL headers
Pro-tune

Running stk:
airbox,
injectors
fuel pump
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funk32 View Post
read here and this should help guide you.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2456767
I had previously read through that but got information overload.

Thank you to everyone for all the geat posts, I think I'll start with a Cobb AP.

Here is my upgrade path/order, can't blow all my cookies at once or my wife will make me dead:

1.) Cobb AP, STi TMIC & splitter, OTS Tune (honey, it will give me better fuel economy)
2.) 04 STi BBS wheels with 225/45/17, roll rear fenders, whiteline adjustable sway bars, kartboy endlinks, rear strut bar (wagon) (honey I need a summer and winter set)
3.) Cobb catted DP, OTS tune (honey, more fuel economy)
4.) Cobb catback, OTS tune (honey, my muffler is in bad shape)
5.) VF 39/43/48, GS EBCS, (maybe FP & Injectors, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it) Protune (don't know how I'll sell this one to her yet)

The milder stuff, like better fluids (brake, trans, rear diff) and plugs will happen soon as I've got my 60k maintenance coming up in about 1500miles or so.

I don't want to ask suspension questions in here, so I'll ask them somewhere else, but I think I've got a pretty good handle on what I'm looking for.

The cobb catback doesn't sound much louder than stock in the clips I've watched/listended to so thats why I'd go with that; however are there noticeable gains with a cat back and my "modest" power goals? I understand that if I start looking for big power down the road it makes sense, but 700+s/h could get me a used VF & EBCS with coin left over.

I think thats all for now, time to start buying parts...

Last edited by Sid03SVT; 01-21-2013 at 10:28 AM.
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:41 AM   #10
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Default upgrades

The cat back adds very little hp, it really comes from the DP + tune. The cobb TBE is a nice sounding and not veru loud.....good choice.

I had nearly identical setup running stk airbox and was getting 290hp on a Dynojet w/tune on my 05 STI.

Yhjere's lots of choices on suspension and tons of info, but the key is spec your entire setup first, just like you've done on the power upgrades. Define how you're going to use the car, your driving style, preferences then seach for the entire setup including sway bars, ciol-overs w/valving matched to the spring rate, bracing, bushing upgrades, etc. Since all of this works to gether look for a balanced system....not a piecemeal collection of stuff.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:54 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid03SVT View Post
I had previously read through that but got information overload.

Thank you to everyone for all the geat posts, I think I'll start with a Cobb AP.

Here is my upgrade path/order, can't blow all my cookies at once or my wife will make me dead:

1.) Cobb AP, STi TMIC & splitter, OTS Tune (honey, it will give me better fuel economy)
2.) 04 STi BBS wheels with 225/45/17, roll rear fenders, whiteline adjustable sway bars, kartboy endlinks, rear strut bar (wagon) (honey I need a summer and winter set)
3.) Cobb catted DP, OTS tune (honey, more fuel economy)
4.) Cobb catback, OTS tune (honey, my muffler is in bad shape)
5.) VF 39/43/48, GS EBCS, (maybe FP & Injectors, I'll cross that bridge when I come to it) Protune (don't know how I'll sell this one to her yet)

The milder stuff, like better fluids (brake, trans, rear diff) and plugs will happen soon as I've got my 60k maintenance coming up in about 1500miles or so.

I don't want to ask suspension questions in here, so I'll ask them somewhere else, but I think I've got a pretty good handle on what I'm looking for.

The cobb catback doesn't sound much louder than stock in the clips I've watched/listended to so thats why I'd go with that; however are there noticeable gains with a cat back and my "modest" power goals? I understand that if I start looking for big power down the road it makes sense, but 700+s/h could get me a used VF & EBCS with coin left over.

I think thats all for now, time to start buying parts...
The cobb catback honestly won't really add power, but it sounds pretty good when you get on it which is half the fun.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:11 PM   #12
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You are most likely going to need bigger injectors and fuel pump to reach your 300whp mark. Better yet if you have an e85 station close by switch to that and you'll be looking at 330whp.

But don't expect to see the same numbers as someone else just because they have the same parts, because each engine acts differently to upgrades and dynos don't all read the same.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUMBERZACK View Post
You are most likely going to need bigger injectors and fuel pump to reach your 300whp mark. Better yet if you have an e85 station close by switch to that and you'll be looking at 330whp.

But don't expect to see the same numbers as someone else just because they have the same parts, because each engine acts differently to upgrades and dynos don't all read the same.
565s should be fine for 300whp...if he wants more then that on pump i would suggest injectors but for no i don't see why he would need to change
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:53 PM   #14
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On my 2011 sti I'm am making 281 whp and 339 wtq I think I should be making more for the mods I have but it was the dyno at cob which I hear reads lower because its a load bearing dyno.

I have:
Perrin TBE
Cosworth intake
Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller
Grimmspeed up-pipe with tial ewg
Pro tune
And pushing 20 psi

Anyone think I should be hitting higher than 281
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frawlll View Post
On my 2011 sti I'm am making 281 whp and 339 wtq I think I should be making more for the mods I have but it was the dyno at cob which I hear reads lower because its a load bearing dyno.

I have:
Perrin TBE
Cosworth intake
Grimmspeed 3 port boost controller
Grimmspeed up-pipe with tial ewg
Pro tune
And pushing 20 psi

Anyone think I should be hitting higher than 281
Numbers are numbers if the car feels strong then no big deal it probably would read higher. If you find out the stock dyno numbers on that dyno that always helps for your sake. On my tuner VD I made 303whp with Cobb intake, turboxs TBE, grimmspeed ebcs, DW65c fp, and a torque solutions tmic. If I were you I would pick up a bigger tmic that's what holds you back right now.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:37 PM   #16
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In that case I know you get what you paid for but are there any good tmic that are fairly inexpensive?
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:46 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by frawlll View Post
In that case I know you get what you paid for but are there any good tmic that are fairly inexpensive?
My torqued solutions is very cheap and works great but fitment is terrible. I have seen people making big numbers with it for the basic mods they have and my car made 15 to 20 more whp than it should have says my tuner. I would look at a fms tmic that's what I initially wanted. It's a cheaper version of process west but it probably won't fit nearly as well. I heard the newer TS tmic fits much better than what I have. I have the older one
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:50 PM   #18
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I will look into that tax return is coming up so sounds like a good mod to do thanks
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frawlll View Post
I will look into that tax return is coming up so sounds like a good mod to do thanks
No problem if money is not an issue get the process west. Fms performs the same but fitment is not the greatest. A tmic should get you near 300whp in my opinion. Like I said numbers are numbers
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:03 PM   #20
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Ok here is the updated path as it sits now..

1.) Cobb AP, STi TMIC & splitter, OTS Tune (honey, it will give me better fuel economy)
2.) 04 STi BBS wheels with 225/45/17, roll rear fenders, whiteline adjustable sway bars, kartboy endlinks, rear strut bar (wagon) (honey I need a summer and winter set)
3.) Cobb catted DP, OTS tune (honey, more fuel economy)
4.) VF 39/43/48, GS EBCS, Protune (don't know how I'll sell this one to her yet)

If I get hungry for more later, injectors, FP, Protune.

I'm not into buying something "just" for looks or sound so the cat-back is out, $700 will go a long way on my fun car or motorcycle, so it's better spent there. Heck I could even sock it away and put it towards the 6-speed swap I will inevitably perform when the 5-speed gives up the ghost.

Or I could do something responsible with it and buy a log splitter or other house stuff; nah I'll buy fun stuff.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:17 PM   #21
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You don't need the Cobb AP, especially for stage 2. Get an Open source Pro tune.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:50 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post
You don't need the Cobb AP, especially for stage 2. Get an Open source Pro tune.
If I were doing it all at once, I would just install all parts and get a protune, but I'm not - I'll be doing the upgrades in stages, pretty much as described above - a little more power, then more handling, then more power, then a significant bump in power once I assemble all the bits.

granted I don't "need" the AP right off the bat when all I'm really doing is slapping on an STi intercooler, but buying it then will be a milder hit to the wallet than buying it at the same time as the DP. I mean I guess I could wait on the TMIC until I bought the turbo & EBCS, which would let me AP & DP at the same time, but again bigger hit at once on the back end; meh work in progress. I know for a fact there is no way I'll be able to buy parts and let them sit in my garage until I have everything to install all at once. Also I'm less likely to save up for all the stuff and buy it at once, spring will come and I'll want to throw money at my motorcycle or my mustang insteald of my wrx.

If only I had unlimited moneys.... <--- classy with the top hat and cane; needs monocle...

or are you saying I can do all the stage 2 bolt ons and not worry about a tune until I go for the turbo upgrade? I don't think that's what you're saying, and it's contrary to what I've read.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:55 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid03SVT View Post

If I were doing it all at once, I would just install all parts and get a protune, but I'm not - I'll be doing the upgrades in stages, pretty much as described above - a little more power, then more handling, then more power, then a significant bump in power once I assemble all the bits.

granted I don't "need" the AP right off the bat when all I'm really doing is slapping on an STi intercooler, but buying it then will be a milder hit to the wallet than buying it at the same time as the DP. I mean I guess I could wait on the TMIC until I bought the turbo & EBCS, which would let me AP & DP at the same time, but again bigger hit at once on the back end; meh work in progress. I know for a fact there is no way I'll be able to buy parts and let them sit in my garage until I have everything to install all at once. Also I'm less likely to save up for all the stuff and buy it at once, spring will come and I'll want to throw money at my motorcycle or my mustang insteald of my wrx.

If only I had unlimited moneys.... <--- classy with the top hat and cane; needs monocle...

or are you saying I can do all the stage 2 bolt ons and not worry about a tune until I go for the turbo upgrade? I don't think that's what you're saying, and it's contrary to what I've read.
He isn't saying that. I have the AP and I like it. I just got protuned and most tuners these days can tune through your AP which is what I did. It's also has very good monitoring tools to help you data log. It was my first mod and once I flashed the stage 1 map things got much smoother. Not only that but you can also do retuned a well. It's a very good tool IMO.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid03SVT View Post
If I were doing it all at once, I would just install all parts and get a protune, but I'm not - I'll be doing the upgrades in stages, pretty much as described above - a little more power, then more handling, then more power, then a significant bump in power once I assemble all the bits.

granted I don't "need" the AP right off the bat when all I'm really doing is slapping on an STi intercooler, but buying it then will be a milder hit to the wallet than buying it at the same time as the DP. I mean I guess I could wait on the TMIC until I bought the turbo & EBCS, which would let me AP & DP at the same time, but again bigger hit at once on the back end; meh work in progress. I know for a fact there is no way I'll be able to buy parts and let them sit in my garage until I have everything to install all at once. Also I'm less likely to save up for all the stuff and buy it at once, spring will come and I'll want to throw money at my motorcycle or my mustang insteald of my wrx.

If only I had unlimited moneys.... <--- classy with the top hat and cane; needs monocle...

or are you saying I can do all the stage 2 bolt ons and not worry about a tune until I go for the turbo upgrade? I don't think that's what you're saying, and it's contrary to what I've read.
I don't think you understand the difference between an AP and a Open source Protune. You can access your map and do all the logging and monitoring you need with a laptop (check Romraider for detals and it's free) on an OS tune. Basically the Cobb AP is an expensive substitute for a laptop. With that being said, there are features on the Cobb AP that are not available on OS, such as LC, anti-lag, FFS, and speed density, but most people at stage 2 aren't using those. Therefore, if you want to save money, you don't need the AP, just a protune for your add-on parts.

Also, the OTS map from Cobb is bad and after running it myself, i would never run them again. My plugs were bone white instead of tan which means the engine was running super lean, and it ran like crap (even though my setup was "exactly" as specified by Cobb for those ots maps)

What's important is the tune to match all your parts together. It's not safe (for engine life) to add power making parts to your engine without tuning it each time. Hence, you should save and get it all done in one shot, instead of one piece at a time.

Last edited by Fierysun; 01-22-2013 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fierysun View Post

I don't think you understand the difference between an AP and a Open source Protune. You can access your map and do all the logging and monitoring you need with a laptop (check Romraider for detals and it's free) on an OS tune. Basically the Cobb AP is an expensive substitute for a laptop. With that being said, there are features on the Cobb AP that are not available on OS, such as LC, anti-lag, FFS, and speed density, but most people at stage 2 aren't using those. Therefore, if you want to save money, you don't need the AP, just a protune for your add-on parts.

Also, the OTS map from Cobb is bad and after running it myself, i would never run them again. My plugs were bone white instead of tan which means the engine was running super lean, and it ran like crap (even though my setup was "exactly" as specified by Cobb for those ots maps)

What's important is the tune to match all your parts together. It's not safe (for engine life) to add power making parts to your engine without tuning it each time. Hence, you should save and get it all done in one shot, instead of one piece at a time.
Well put. That's odd you were running lean on a Cobb OTS map. They normally run rich. As for the OP it all comes down to what you want and hat you want to spend. I personally like having LC and a small ap acting as a laptop. Idk much about rom raider but I do like my AP. I was happy running Cobb stage 1 and then using my ap for an etune fr my stage 2 set up now I am protuned at stage 2
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