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Old 01-07-2013, 04:51 PM   #1
kleedzine
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Default early oil breakdown normal?

Hi guys,
I have custom forged built motor with vf39, stage2 mods(20psi, only downpipe, ebcs, Crawford v2 AOS) atm.
whenever, whichever oil, I change, it is burning relatively normal until approx. 1500km, after that, oil is burning faster.
Engine has 60k+ km, and normal driving, shifting point is 3k rpm, rarely see redline, but sees boost half of the time when I drive. bearing clearance is same as stock, no oil sign on hot side of the turbo.
butt dyno feels always good, no smoke on start up/idle, no smoke when oil filler cap opened, only feel pulse.

I have so far used rotellar T6 (5W40), Motul 8100 (5W40), and GC(0W30) for winter, and they are all going down relatively fast.

Should I bump up the oil weight?

I maybe missing some details, but any inputs are welcome.
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Last edited by kleedzine; 01-07-2013 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:06 PM   #2
Flat 4 Motorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kleedzine View Post
Hi guys,
I have custom forged built motor with vf39, stage2 mods(20psi, only downpipe, ebcs, Crawford v2 AOS) atm.
whenever, whichever oil, I change, it is burning relatively normal until approx. 1500km, after that, oil is burning faster.
Engine has 60k+ km, and normal driving, shifting point is 3k rpm, rarely see redline, but sees boost half of the time when I drive. bearing clearance is same as stock, no oil sign on hot side of the turbo.
butt dyno feels always good, no smoke on start up/idle, no smoke when oil filler cap opened, only feel pulse.

I have so far used rotellar T6 (5W40), Motul 8100 (5W40), and GC(0W30) for winter, and they are all going down relatively fast.

Should I bump up the oil weight?

I maybe missing some details, but any inputs are welcome.
What are were your clearances when the motor was built?
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Old 01-07-2013, 07:10 PM   #3
JayMeagher
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I'm sure there are lots of threads on here you can read about "excessive" oil consumption. At the end of the day the forged pistons require more clearance, the oil control with larger than stock clearances and ring tension all play parts of the equation. How is your fueling? You could also be getting some additional fuel into the oil and that will contribute to oil break down. If you've added injector and things like transient fueling can be off by large amounts.

Thanks
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Old 01-07-2013, 08:20 PM   #4
kleedzine
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Thanks for the input.
my fueling system is stock yellow sidefeed with stock pump.
I wouldn't think the oil breakage was from the fueling.

actually, my question was if oil tend to thin out much earlier in built motor than stock motor, even quality synthetic. I know there a ton of variables for oil breakdown, but I just wanna know the tendency of oil in built motors.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:19 PM   #5
kleedzine
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anybody?
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:52 PM   #6
Uncle Scotty
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if you are having this issue, then you may have to run a more robust oil
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Old 01-08-2013, 09:34 PM   #7
Flat 4 Motorsport
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Just to give you an idea on oils I use on my built motors,

20W50 VR1 non-syn in the summer and 5W40 Liquid Moly Full Synthetic in the winter.

I don't ever have to add, but also don't go more than 2K on the same oil.
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Old 01-08-2013, 10:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport
Just to give you an idea on oils I use on my built motors,

20W50 VR1 non-syn in the summer and 5W40 Liquid Moly Full Synthetic in the winter.

I don't ever have to add, but also don't go more than 2K on the same oil.
What kind if bearing clearances and ptw are you running?
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:14 PM   #9
Flat 4 Motorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04ScoobyWtf View Post

What kind if bearing clearances and ptw are you running?
Rods are at .0014 mains vary from .0016-.0022

Ptw .003 with skirt coating
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:44 PM   #10
kleedzine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport View Post
Just to give you an idea on oils I use on my built motors,

20W50 VR1 non-syn in the summer and 5W40 Liquid Moly Full Synthetic in the winter.

I don't ever have to add, but also don't go more than 2K on the same oil.
Thanks for sharing your info.

Have you had UOA with 20W50? On BITOG site, I have seen some UOA showing excessive bearing wear sign(above average lead, and copper) with 50wt used in built motor.

Last edited by kleedzine; 01-09-2013 at 12:31 AM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:10 PM   #11
kleedzine
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changed oil with redline 10W40.
I will see how it goes.
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:18 PM   #12
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I had to switch back to conventional oil this winter in my built motor once the cold weather hit Nova Scotia. I was running rotella t6 and within 1000km it was really thin, and getting a lot of blow by into my intercooler. I switched to conventional 10w30 and the problem went away.
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:23 AM   #13
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What pistons did you end up using?
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:18 AM   #14
kleedzine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theSlothy1 View Post
I had to switch back to conventional oil this winter in my built motor once the cold weather hit Nova Scotia. I was running rotella t6 and within 1000km it was really thin, and getting a lot of blow by into my intercooler. I switched to conventional 10w30 and the problem went away.
synthetic 5W40 thiner than conventional oil 10W30?
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:02 PM   #15
theSlothy1
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It was really thin within 1000km's, kept filling my tmic (with crawford v2 aos installed) with oil. Switched oil, cleaned tmic and it hasnt happened again.
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