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Old 01-10-2013, 02:22 PM   #26
scootarida1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 808-wrx View Post
I talked to one of the tech reps (at the manley booth) at subiefest and he said it was not a good idea to shave or grind any of there rods. It weakens/takes off the strength coating and causes a weak link. Im not a pro motor builder just thats what the guy said.

Im in your same boat rite now. Just did my leak down and found lots of air coming out of the dipstick and oil fill tube.
Okay, I also confirmed this with a Manley Tech. I had a concern because one of the rod ends was over a gram from the others. In the email I sent Manley, the mentioned that they match/balance to within 3 grams of each other and told me not to worry about the 1 gram difference.

I figure I will just make a note and fix the balancing when the crank is dynamically balanced at the machine shop.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:49 PM   #27
woodys77
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Their always going to tell you not to grind their rods..
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:57 PM   #28
scootarida1
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Originally Posted by woodys77 View Post
Their always going to tell you not to grind their rods..
Yeah...do you think I can compensate for the difference in weight during the crank balancing or should I just balance the rods so they are all the same?
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:01 PM   #29
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Anyways, I decided to just balance them closer and I will post up my numbers in later. I figured it would be better to have balanced rods by removing a tad bit of material instead of leaving them alone.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:57 PM   #30
scootarida1
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Rods after balancing




Big End Material Removal Location




Little End Material Removal Location





Final Numbers

Rod 1-----380.7-----140.2
Rod 2-----380.6-----140.2
Rod 3-----380.7-----140.0
Rod 4-----380.5-----140.3
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:40 PM   #31
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I figured it might help some other people by showing my setup for balancing the rods. I made something to adjust the height of the support to make sure the rods are level when weighing them. There was tape holding the jig on the scale to ensure consistent weights. I used some bearings I had laying around for the supports. I made sure to clean off any lubricant so it didn't skew the results.



Weighed all of the big ends. Found the lightest one and then used a belt sander to bring all of the other rods to the weight of the lightest one.

Then did the same thing with the small end by weighing the whole rod and taking the lightest rod and sanding the other rods to match the lightest.'



Here the belt sander I used. I believe I was using a 120 grit for the sanding which made it easy not to take off to much material.

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Old 01-15-2013, 04:18 PM   #32
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Grimmspeed Thermostat came in


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Old 01-16-2013, 02:42 PM   #33
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Took a quick measurement a couple of days ago to work on a custom equal length header. I am trying to avoid using the STI oil pan and stay with my stock oil pan. Here is something I came up with in SolidWorks. The runners are within 0.02" of each other. This will obviously get in the way of the oil filter so I will have to do a oil filter relocation. But anyways here is my design so far.


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Old 01-17-2013, 02:37 PM   #34
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Essential for an engine rebuild.

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Old 01-17-2013, 02:43 PM   #35
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Just drew this up in SolidWorks so I can get it made when the time comes. I just measured a head gasket for now to get the dimensions. I will double check the dimensions when I pull the heads off to ensure they are correct.

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Old 01-17-2013, 03:40 PM   #36
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So do you have access to a machine shop and material for cheap or something? Team Scream was helping Champion sell some torque plates and they are pretty nice. There's a thread on here about them unless you've got the tooling access and stuff. Good possibility given you're working with solidworks.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootarida1 View Post
Took a quick measurement a couple of days ago to work on a custom equal length header. I am trying to avoid using the STI oil pan and stay with my stock oil pan. Here is something I came up with in SolidWorks. The runners are within 0.02" of each other. This will obviously get in the way of the oil filter so I will have to do a oil filter relocation. But anyways here is my design so far.


Why are you trying to avoid the sti oil pan?
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:08 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
So do you have access to a machine shop and material for cheap or something? Team Scream was helping Champion sell some torque plates and they are pretty nice. There's a thread on here about them unless you've got the tooling access and stuff. Good possibility given you're working with solidworks.
Cost for the material is looking around $100.

For the machining I will have to see what I can do. Might get it done at a local VoTech school if possible. Maybe can get it done for free. I am also going to check out local rates as well. I had access when I was in school but now I graduated so I have to keep my options open.


Also, I am trying to avoid the STI pan because I want to try an equal length that is a little bit different. I don't AutoX or race my car so I wont have to worry about starving the oil system from hard cornering.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:10 PM   #39
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I also feel that the flow of the runners in the manifold I designed are more equal since they are just mirrored versions. The only part where it becomes tricky is after the meet. Ideally I would like to have some straight tube after they merge then do the other 90 but there isn't much room with the subframe. I will see if I can double check the flows with a flow simulator to see how the pairs compare.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:31 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootarida1 View Post
Took a quick measurement a couple of days ago to work on a custom equal length header. I am trying to avoid using the STI oil pan and stay with my stock oil pan. Here is something I came up with in SolidWorks. The runners are within 0.02" of each other. This will obviously get in the way of the oil filter so I will have to do a oil filter relocation. But anyways here is my design so far.
Very nice... and if you're OK with some constructive criticism...

Don't stick with the EJ20 pan. There are more downsides to up (better oiling performance, more pan options, and for what you're doing here, a more direct path for the primaries) with sticking to the old EJ20 pan.

Also, be mindful of the distance to the radiator. If you're working with a GC there is less room to spare and next to zero options for a thin fan that actually moves and decent amount of air. Oil relocation does free up some space, but the geometry to get the clearance, is fairly marginal. We've done it both ways and I'm not sure the several hundreds of dollars to relocate the oil filter is is better than thinking through the design a bit more.

Here's a sketch of something we're toying with that shows how the STi (EJ25) pan lends itself to a better flowing primary path via fewer bends and less sharp merge angles...

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Old 01-17-2013, 04:38 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scootarida1 View Post
Just drew this up in SolidWorks so I can get it made when the time comes. I just measured a head gasket for now to get the dimensions. I will double check the dimensions when I pull the heads off to ensure they are correct.

PM Teamscream and also look in the FS section. I think some is selling a brand new torque plate there.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:41 PM   #42
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Don't get too caught up in the flow. The primaries are each going to flow differently because you've got different bends. 1 and 3 are going to flow better than 2 and 4.

Turbocharged pressure side carries energy characteristics in a few forms: pressure, heat, sound, flow, etc.

Oh and if you need exhaust flanges... I have some extras kicking around I'd sell cheap.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:43 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Don't get too caught up in the flow. The primaries are each going to flow differently because you've got different bends. 1 and 3 are going to flow better than 2 and 4.

Turbocharged pressure side carries energy characteristics in a few forms: pressure, heat, sound, flow, etc.

Oh and if you need exhaust flanges... I have some extras kicking around I'd sell cheap.
Thanks for the input. I might need some flanges at some point. I was just messing around with the drawings real quick and probably wont get around to fabrication until a couple of months until after the motor is done. I do like your design with the STI pan.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:29 PM   #44
scootarida1
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Radiator came in today. Ordered it yesterday, very quick shipping.





Packaged with honeycomb cushioning.




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Old 01-18-2013, 09:55 AM   #45
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Parts keep rolling in:

Head Studs.






Planning on pulling the motor next week sometime and then tearing it down to check the condition and take some measurements to see if everything is still within spec.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:13 PM   #46
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This is gonna be a great build!
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:20 PM   #47
scootarida1
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I plan on pulling the motor tomorrow. Should be a fun day.


Also here is some more parts I've been accumulating. Fuel rails, hose, fire sleeve, and some y's and clamps. I still need to take some dimensions of the tgv's before I can order some injectors.


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Old 01-24-2013, 09:05 PM   #48
scootarida1
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Default Motor Pulling Time

Before




Ready for Pulling












Mounted on the Stand











Where'd the engine go?





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Old 01-25-2013, 08:48 PM   #49
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When I was originally fabricating my Up-Pipe, I made a bracket to support the up pipe but it ended up not working out. Here is what that looked like.




I really like my design with the up pipe and how it uses a long bending radius tube to make for good exhaust flow.



I figured since I had access to this and the turbo was still mounted and didn't shift, I would cut that out and make new brackets.


Here is a couple pictures of them tack welded onto the up pipe and the brackets mounted.







Then I pulled the up pipe and turbo off and finished up the welding, ensuring my tacks were strong enough before I pulled it so it wouldn't distort and move the mounting points. I used some 3/8 CR round bar and some 1" angle iron for the brackets with holes drilled into them to fit the bolts.









I will be ceramic coating the pipes when the time comes.
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Old 01-29-2013, 05:29 PM   #50
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Finally got the block torn apart to take some measurements to see if all of the journals were still within spec. Good news is that they are and seem to have worn evenly.

Here were my final measurements.

Main Journal 1 ----- 2.3620"
Main Journal 2 ----- 2.3621"
Main Journal 3 ----- 2.3620"
Main Journal 4 ----- 2.3620"
Main Journal 5 ----- 2.3620"


Rod Journal 1 ----- 2.0469"
Rod Journal 2 ----- 2.0467"
Rod Journal 3 ----- 2.0467"
Rod Journal 4 ----- 2.0469"


Time to order some bearings. Anyone have any idea on what kind of clearances I should have if I order the standard size bearings for both the Main and Rods?

Last edited by scootarida1; 01-31-2013 at 04:23 PM.
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