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Old 08-28-2012, 07:27 PM   #1
drunkdog
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Member#: 327947
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
Vehicle:
2002 wrx wagon
Black

Default gutting up pipe and catless down pipe

Doing this on Saturday at my house in Albany. I have all new gaskets and tools i need. If anyone in the area wants to stop by for a cold beer and to give some advise or support i would love it. I've rebuilt my yz250 and other things but an new at this scooby stuff. Just to be clear, I'm not looking for someone to do it for me. Just someone one with some experience for pointers and advise. Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-29-2012, 04:55 PM   #2
drunkdog
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Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
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2002 wrx wagon
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Bump for free beer.
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Old 08-29-2012, 10:52 PM   #3
enchanter100
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Member#: 327768
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
WRB

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I'm interested in stopping by and saying hi. I've never done what you are doing, most i've done is a tune-up, brakes, and control arms. So pm me your # and I'll stop by at least to see the results and check out your car.
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Old 08-30-2012, 05:41 PM   #4
drunkdog
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
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2002 wrx wagon
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Pm sent. Thanks for the reply.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:16 PM   #5
Sw20matt
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Member#: 268770
Join Date: Dec 2010
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Oregon City
Vehicle:
2006 WRX TR
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its kind of a pain in the ass to get to everything but its not to hard of a job to do.

make sure you have new crush gaskets for the turbo oil line as well as the exhaust gaskets
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:13 PM   #6
drunkdog
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Location: Albany, OR
Vehicle:
2002 wrx wagon
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Nice call on the crush washers, thanks Matt!
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:27 PM   #7
awakethroughmotion
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Member#: 199512
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: West Linn, Oregon
Vehicle:
06 wrb STi E85
2013 F150 XLT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sw20matt View Post
its kind of a pain in the ass to get to everything but its not to hard of a job to do.

make sure you have new crush gaskets for the turbo oil line as well as the exhaust gaskets

you shouldnt have to take those lines off, just let the turbo hang, but prop it up so not all its weight is on the turbo inlet, the stock inlet is very weak and tears easily. getting the uppipe out will be the hardest part. i find rotating it 180 degrees and pulling it upwards is easier than out the bottom of the car. good luck.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:28 PM   #8
drunkdog
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Location: Albany, OR
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2002 wrx wagon
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Thank you. I couldn't get those banjo washers by Saturday so i was just gonna go from the bottom but i didn't get new manifold gaskets. leaving the oil inlet connected will save me. Thank you again.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:49 PM   #9
awakethroughmotion
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2013 F150 XLT

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No problem, another trick i do also is get your jack and put a board between it and the oil pan, jack that **** up like a half inch, your stock motor mounts have a ton of flex so it will get you much more needed room to get the uppipe out. Just don't jack the motor high enough to tear those mounts.

You can go out the top or bottom with the turbo on as long as the downpipe is gone, which it will be. I've reused exhaust manifold gaskets with no leaks but probably shouldn't count on that.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:56 PM   #10
CaptinCurt
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Location: Oregon City
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2006 2.5I STI

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Quote:
Originally Posted by awakethroughmotion View Post
No problem, another trick i do also is get your jack and put a board between it and the oil pan, jack that **** up like a half inch, your stock motor mounts have a ton of flex so it will get you much more needed room to get the uppipe out. Just don't jack the motor high enough to tear those mounts.

You can go out the top or bottom with the turbo on as long as the downpipe is gone, which it will be. I've reused exhaust manifold gaskets with no leaks but probably shouldn't count on that.
That's what I did, It worked great for me.
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Old 08-31-2012, 05:39 PM   #11
drunkdog
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
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2002 wrx wagon
Black

Default

Thank you. Hope it all goes half way smooth. I'd like to go on the sea side cruise from pdx on Sunday if i get it done.
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Old 08-31-2012, 10:52 PM   #12
specialev
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, Wa
Vehicle:
1986 Syncro Vanaru
07 SV650

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I've done this job a couple of dozen times, never pulled the turbo to do so.

Don't ever jack up your motor with the mounts hooked up. You're just asking to tear one. They aren't designed to be loaded in tension. Remove both the motor mount fasteners and then jack up your motor.

Basic process:
Remove all the heat shields you can get to from the top. Unbolt everything you can get to from the top on the DP. Disconnect EGT sensor adjacent to FRH strut tower. Slacken bolts on the RH side roadwheel. Jack up front of car and place on stands. Remove front roadwheel. Remove the mudguard over the FWD O2 sensor. Remove mudguard under car. Remove the heat shield over the RH collector; this heat shield has an o2 sensor that goes through it, I usually save myself and whoever works on the car next a lot of trouble by cutting a small notch to allow removal of the H/S without removing the O2 sensor. Remove remaining heat shield bolts around exhaust and extract heat shields. Remove DP. Remove all UP fasteners, turbo to rh collector. Remove both motor mount fasteners and jack up from the oil pan. Go up about 1.5-2" and wiggle around the UP till it will come out, I usually bend the EGT sensor while I do this as I discard it.

When you reassemble the motor mounts won't line directly up with their holes in the x-member after you drop the motor back in the cradle. You'll need to pop them back into place.

I gut the UPs with an air hammer. Takes about 15-20 minutes. Wear a dust mask.

Discard the egt sensor and put a 2.2kohm resistor in the EGT sensor socket and you won't get any CELs.

Reassembly is otherwise reversal of above.
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Old 08-31-2012, 11:05 PM   #13
drunkdog
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
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2002 wrx wagon
Black

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You sure make it sound easy. I hope it gots half way smooth. I have sprayed all the nuts and bolts twice now. Thank you for the information!
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Old 09-02-2012, 10:53 AM   #14
drunkdog
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Location: Albany, OR
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Finished about 4 yesterday. Very happy with how it sounds but now have a cel. Also the butt dyno didn't show much improvement.
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:41 PM   #15
larrycox3
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Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: wa
Vehicle:
04 Impreza WRX STi
black

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Quote:
Originally Posted by drunkdog
Finished about 4 yesterday. Very happy with how it sounds but now have a cel. Also the butt dyno didn't show much improvement.
U need a tune after installing that stuff, I'd have it scanned for free at autozone or something if you dont haz access to a scan tool. it will probably show up as code po244 which is waste gate solenoid. Or get an accessport and problem solved.
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:50 PM   #16
brett192
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan PSM
Stage 2 w/ 6 speed

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Quote:
Originally Posted by specialev View Post
Discard the egt sensor and put a 2.2kohm resistor in the EGT sensor socket and you won't get any CELs.
I'm going to be doing this next weekend probably, can you explain this a little more?

Do I snip the wires and solder a resister in place of the sensor?
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:14 PM   #17
drunkdog
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Member#: 327947
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Albany, OR
Vehicle:
2002 wrx wagon
Black

Default

I think out is my rear o2 sensor because i went fully catless
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Old 09-02-2012, 02:19 PM   #18
brett192
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Member#: 274252
Join Date: Feb 2011
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan PSM
Stage 2 w/ 6 speed

Default

Does your downpipe not have a sensor bung?
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:41 PM   #19
chrissmith002
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Member#: 176046
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn
Vehicle:
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now buy an accessport and go stage 2 and youll see a difference.
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Old 09-02-2012, 09:44 PM   #20
drunkdog
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Location: Albany, OR
Vehicle:
2002 wrx wagon
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brett192
Does your downpipe not have a sensor bung?
Yes, i did the double anti fouler fix. The cel went away when i got to sea side today. Drove 125 more miles and still no cel since.
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:38 AM   #21
specialev
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Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Auburn, Wa
Vehicle:
1986 Syncro Vanaru
07 SV650

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Quote:
Originally Posted by brett192 View Post
I'm going to be doing this next weekend probably, can you explain this a little more?

Do I snip the wires and solder a resister in place of the sensor?
Snip the resistor leads to about 1/2" long and bend them to 90 degrees and insert into the plug for the EGT sensor. I like to put a couple wraps of electricians tape over the plug as a finishing touch.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:41 AM   #22
brett192
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Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Vancouver Island, BC
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan PSM
Stage 2 w/ 6 speed

Default

So it's been a week and around 1000 kms since I installed an '06 STI up pipe with no EGT bung, I just unplugged the sensor and have not seen a CEL yet

When I try to monitor my EGTs on my accessport, though, it always shows 689F. Which is understandable because there is no sensor plugged in. My invidia downpipe doesn't have a bung either so I guess I just have to get used to it.

Would this affect the ECU at all? I'm just wondering if the car would run better if it had a sensor hooked up. Thanks
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:23 PM   #23
evenflow35
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Member#: 337258
Join Date: Nov 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Tualatin, OR
Vehicle:
05 WRX ("Saabaru")
Black

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Quote:
Originally Posted by brett192 View Post
So it's been a week and around 1000 kms since I installed an '06 STI up pipe with no EGT bung, I just unplugged the sensor and have not seen a CEL yet

When I try to monitor my EGTs on my accessport, though, it always shows 689F. Which is understandable because there is no sensor plugged in. My invidia downpipe doesn't have a bung either so I guess I just have to get used to it.

Would this affect the ECU at all? I'm just wondering if the car would run better if it had a sensor hooked up. Thanks
No, as long as you have it tuned, it won't affect the ECU. I have a catless up and DP, no sensors, no CEL on. Been that way for almost 6 months now.
Is your car running bad right now?
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Old 01-30-2013, 05:26 PM   #24
i_dream_of_STI
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Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Beaverton, OR
Vehicle:
05 Saab 9-2x Areo
Arctic Silver

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I hope to do the same thing this summer. I got my sti uppipe and exhaust. Just need to find a catted downpipe. Already have the AP on stage 1.

I have heard the catless uppipe make things feel smooth.

-Jason
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:28 PM   #25
evenflow35
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Location: Tualatin, OR
Vehicle:
05 WRX ("Saabaru")
Black

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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_dream_of_STI View Post
I hope to do the same thing this summer. I got my sti uppipe and exhaust. Just need to find a catted downpipe. Already have the AP on stage 1.

I have heard the catless uppipe make things feel smooth.

-Jason
I personally didn't notice a difference with making things feel smoother...feels the same. However, it seems to boost a little sooner with the cat less up compared to the catted. Definitely one of the best mods, along with bell mouth DP and Stage II of course!
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