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Old 02-01-2013, 12:39 AM   #151
flk
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^Don't forget with slightly bigger tires you will get a height gain too. For example i'm going from factory 235/45/17 to 245/40R18 and I will be gaining 5 mm in ride height from that alone. Arch wheel gap will also effectively decrease by 5 mm so that affords the look of being lower while actually raising ground clearance.
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Old 02-01-2013, 05:57 PM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flk View Post
^Don't forget with slightly bigger tires you will get a height gain too. For example i'm going from factory 235/45/17 to 245/40R18 and I will be gaining 5 mm in ride height from that alone. Arch wheel gap will also effectively decrease by 5 mm so that affords the look of being lower while actually raising ground clearance.
I wouldn't do that with the 5 speed. Slightly smaller wheel will be better with the gearing.
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Old 02-01-2013, 11:21 PM   #153
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^I know I won't have the gearing advantage, but it's my winter A/S setup, not my summers.
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Old 02-02-2013, 09:24 PM   #154
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Quote:
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^I know I won't have the gearing advantage, but it's my winter A/S setup, not my summers.
Why would you get 18s for winter?
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:00 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by mrkyle3 View Post

Why would you get 18s for winter?
That's a good question. Even with slightly tall tires, you would have way more sidewall with a 17, or even a 16 if one clears your brakes.
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Old 02-02-2013, 10:32 PM   #156
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16's will, I'm actually looking for a set of 15" Braids for winter.
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Old 02-03-2013, 07:31 PM   #157
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Before: OEM shocks and springs...





After: Bilstein shocks and yellow springs, Rear set to top circlip, car has fully settled, before alignment...



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Old 02-03-2013, 09:08 PM   #158
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People, I know some of you may not want a stiff ride, but I am willing to guarantee that the yellows with the Bils are NOT going to give you a rough ride. It is still relatively plush to me. And yeah, the drop is minimal, I'd believe 15-20mm. But I didn't measure before I swapped them. I am running the rear 5mm up to compensate for my 2 kids in the car. I wouldn't want to go any lower. I like susp travel and not having to slow down for everything.

IMO, this is a great "set it and forget it" setup for someone who wants a no-hassle susp upgrade.

And btw, I have never had any passenger in the last 15 months comment that my car rode stiff or rough, etc with the RCE yellow/Bils.
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Old 02-04-2013, 07:57 PM   #159
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My Blacks with the revalved Bilsteins have settled. Too bad for lake effect snow though. Will take better pictures when I see the sun again!





Rears are at +5mm. This retains the factory rake, but honestly I think +10mm would be better. I will change it when the weather warms up.
Ride is good, a bit stiffer than my GSR Evo X but not harsh.

My alignment is:
-1.8 camber FL/FR
0 toe FL/FR

-1.3 camber RL/RR
0.05 toe in RL/RR

I actually wanted less camber in the rear for rotation but due to compression even with rolled rear fenders it was safer with current settings.
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:04 PM   #160
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Good job doing it the right way and getting those bils revalved!
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:45 PM   #161
flk
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Thanks! There doesnt seem to be any evidence of the revalve as far as serial #'s go. Unless Myles wants to chime in and let me know how I can tell. Can everyone who has either Yellows/Blacks post their hub to fender distance?
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Old 02-04-2013, 08:56 PM   #162
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Check out earlier in the thread, everything should be posted somewhere.
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Old 03-29-2013, 03:44 PM   #163
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I'm leaning towards the GTWorx kit with the black springs for my '12 sedan. Does anyone have any more pics they can post up. It's kind of hard to see the drop on most of these pics. Also, do you guys recommend having the bils re-valved for the black springs? Does that cost anything extra?
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:40 PM   #164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYInk View Post
I'm leaning towards the GTWorx kit with the black springs for my '12 sedan. Does anyone have any more pics they can post up. It's kind of hard to see the drop on most of these pics. Also, do you guys recommend having the bils re-valved for the black springs? Does that cost anything extra?
Overland just posted some pictures in his thread, mkvaron has some too. I was told by RCE that you wouldn't need to have anything re-valves to use the blacks. I can't comment first hand since I haven't installed mine yet.
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Old 03-29-2013, 04:41 PM   #165
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYInk View Post
I'm leaning towards the GTWorx kit with the black springs for my '12 sedan. Does anyone have any more pics they can post up. It's kind of hard to see the drop on most of these pics. Also, do you guys recommend having the bils re-valved for the black springs? Does that cost anything extra?
Overland just posted some pictures in his thread, mkvaron has some too. I was told by RCE that you wouldn't need to have anything re-valved to use the blacks. I can't comment first hand since I haven't installed mine yet.
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Old 03-30-2013, 08:28 PM   #166
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Heres 2 pics showing the drop with a slightly larger ratio tire (245/40R18):




Camber is F-1.8 R -1.5
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:44 PM   #167
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I never saw this thread previously, but after going through it there was alot of misinformation (assumptions) I saw so I thought I would post the link to my review comparing the yellows and blacks.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...t=rce+bilstein

Not sure where anyone got an idea that the blacks are bad on the track, but I assure you they aren't with adjustable sway bars. Certainly the yellows are better & if you want a dedicated track car its the right setup (for not fully adjustable), but if you want your car to not be uncomfortable through snow and rough roads which I deal with for work I would highly reccomend the blacks having used both in all situations. Just my .02...

Also I didn't revalve mine when switching springs after consulting with my local alignment shop and RCE. Absolutely no issues, 15K miles and 3 track days on them...

Last edited by mkvaron; 04-04-2013 at 01:47 PM. Reason: bottom comment
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