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Old 10-22-2012, 05:54 PM   #76
wrxsubiemod
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Yeah, I found a bluepoint socket that fits perfect on the allen heads. Just keeping my fingers crossed I don't run into that issue again.
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Old 10-22-2012, 05:56 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav View Post
You have to have the exact right size phillips and use either an impact driver or a mini-impact gun and they come right off. Took a long time to find a bit that fits it just right but once I did, I have not stripped one again.
Bingo. I use this: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...1&blockType=G1 with (iirc) the second largest phillips bit (if not, the largest) and have never had an issue.
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Old 10-25-2012, 04:55 PM   #78
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Front cam cap bolts have a different torque spec than the rest, but it isn't mentioned in the 2002 service manual.

It's easier to drill cam bolts IMO than sitting there with an impact gun rounding the socket out or almost tipping the engine stand over with a breaker bar.

Permatex Ultra Gray is just as good as Fuji Bond and costs a quarter of the price and you can get it at any auto parts store.

+1 on using a piece of round stock to knock wrist pins out.

The handle of a large adjustable wrench can work as a wedge between the flywheel and block if you need to keep the crank from turning.


Not engine related:

As already mentioned, you can remove the trans without taking the front suspension on either side off to get the axles out.

Axle pins will only drive back in from one side, even 180 off apparently isn't machined well enough for it.

You can drop the rear diff without removing any of the cross member by pulling the studs out of the diff cover.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:06 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post
The handle of a large adjustable wrench can work as a wedge between the flywheel and block if you need to keep the crank from turning.
I bought a $1.50 piece of strap steel at lowe's and drilled the holes out a little bigger to fit over the bell housing stud and then bolt the other end in with a clutch cover bolt.

Strap steel was by the fence hardware (latches, l brackets, etc) probably only 4" long
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:07 PM   #80
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That sounds like a lot of work Good idea tho!
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:33 PM   #81
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Anyone have any cool tricks or custom tools to install cosworth wrist pin clips? Unless someone has another idea I'll end up making my own tool, just havent really decided the specifics yet. I like the piston design but as a company they pretty much piss me off. No reason to use that kind of clip over a style with tabs to grab with pliers except to make more money on the installation tool. I'm 100% not buying the $200+ tool from cosworth.
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:39 PM   #82
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Spiral clips are a bitch!

They use that design, because theyre virtually impossible to fall out at high rpm.

I just have experience removing them and they're are a bitch removing. A set of snap ring pliers may do the trick.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:27 PM   #83
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Well the normal ones still fit inside the same groove so I don't see how they have more chance to come out. Maybe I'm missing the point idk. But snap ring pliers don't work because there isn't anything to grab to compress them when you install. They use just a round clip with no holes or tangs of any kind. If the engine were like other engines where you install the pistons to the rods before putting them on the crankshaft it wouldn't be that hard. But since you have to put the clips in the hole in the case it looks like it will be a pain.
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:34 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
Well the normal ones still fit inside the same groove so I don't see how they have more chance to come out. Maybe I'm missing the point idk. But snap ring pliers don't work because there isn't anything to grab to compress them when you install. They use just a round clip with no holes or tangs of any kind. If the engine were like other engines where you install the pistons to the rods before putting them on the crankshaft it wouldn't be that hard. But since you have to put the clips in the hole in the case it looks like it will be a pain.
Pardon the ignorance, but are the grooves in a way that you can't use the normal clips?
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Old 10-30-2012, 03:38 PM   #85
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Visually it looked like the cosworth clips are larger diameter. I can measure them later to see if that is actually the case. I'll try to do that tonight.
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Old 10-30-2012, 08:42 PM   #86
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Well its obvious to the eye but I measured them anyway and they are different. I think different enough that I would not want to use OEM in the cosworth pistons.
Cosworth

Stock


Anyway, talked to another person on here who had the same issue. Basically did what I was going to do, just used a piece of 1" thin wall aluminum tube to hold the clip and then he said he used a 16 or 17mm socket as the plunger. As long as I can find a piece of tubing that's what I'll do too.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:16 PM   #87
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JE Internal snap rings FTW!

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Old 11-01-2012, 11:22 AM   #88
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cheap and quick cam alignment tool.



After getting tired of fighting the drivers side cam gears when doing my timing belt I dug around in my scrap pile and made this using a few 6mm bolts washers and a few nylon locking nuts. You can find this stuff at just about any hardware store.

the 6mm bolts have a 10mm head that will fit the cam bolts, I snugged down the locking nuts enough to hold the bolts still but yet allow me to rotate the sprockets, once I get them in the right spot a quick turn on lock nuts hold everything in place good enough to work with.


I cant really take credit for this since I came across a similar post where someone made similar by drilling out a piece of flat stock, this was easier since the holes in the angle iron worked out perfectly.

As an added bonus, see where I cut it up top, I can use the remaining flat section with one hole drilled larger to catch a flywheel bolt and a transmission dowel so I can lock the crank in place for flywheel and crank bolt removal and installation

Last edited by biodude; 11-01-2012 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 02-04-2013, 02:37 PM   #89
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Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.)

I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?
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Old 02-04-2013, 04:47 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.)

I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?
I drove mine out with a long piece of 1/4" rod and a hammer. It is possible to do, just takes some finagling
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Old 02-04-2013, 05:16 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.)

I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?
Don't know if it has been mentioned. But putting heat to the top of the piston always helps them slide out nice and easy for me.
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Old 02-05-2013, 08:39 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 340Duster View Post
I drove mine out with a long piece of 1/4" rod and a hammer. It is possible to do, just takes some finagling
Thanks, took another look at it tonight and found that you are correct. Got 4 of the 6 out, need to pull the engine off the stand so I can get to the circlip on the rear DS piston, then I'll be able to get those last 2 pistons out.
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Old 02-06-2013, 09:13 PM   #93
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How do you guys remove the alignment dowels that are between the head and block. The machine shop usually does this for me and isn't an issue, but when I need them out myself it sucks. Haven't looked at taps yet but they seem too thin to tap and use the bolt trick.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:16 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
How do you guys remove the alignment dowels that are between the head and block. The machine shop usually does this for me and isn't an issue, but when I need them out myself it sucks. Haven't looked at taps yet but they seem too thin to tap and use the bolt trick.
Grind a socket down so it just slips inside and then use channel lock pliers to grip it and turn/wiggle it out. The socket gives you a backing so you don't crush the dowel.

There are collet style slide hammer dealies that will do it nicely, BUT I don't reuse them once they are out so the $250+ seems like wasted money to me.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:17 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Team Scream View Post
I designed a tool for splitting the case halves. I have not completed it yet, but when I do, I will make a few of them and offer them to those who may want them.

Here is the original post I made about it last year:
Team Scream Case Splitter

And here is a drawing I sketched up in Illustrator to show the concept.





I will be diving into this tool to try and complete it as soon as I get these 2 engines built.

The concept is to use the crank as a fulcrum, a used set of head bolts as the pulling agents, and tooling that bolts to the flywheel contacts @ the back of the crank, and uses a rubber pad between the tooling and the front of the crank.

Essentially, the used head bolts will separate the case halves from the dowels and sealant by keeping the crankshaft stationary.

This is a rough sketch of what it looks like so far, but if you visualize it, you will get the picture pretty easily.

No pounding on the case, no prying, no damage the the mating surfaces or dowel pins from cocking the case halves. Just clean, perfect separation which is what you want when you want to inspect main bearings and impart no additional scoring or damage during the case splitting process.
TS - have you gone any further with this?
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:36 PM   #96
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To set an even height on the rings when sizing them use an old piston with only the second ring in place.

Seat new ring at top of cylinder then flip old piston over and push into the bore with the crown against the new ring. The second ring acts as a positive stop and sets and even height around the circumference of the new ring.

Also, oil the cylinder heavily to keep new ring from scratching the bore too badly.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:50 PM   #97
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Those collet style slide hammer dealies are what my machine shop uses. They're pretty nice I'll try the socket thing. I'll use one of my 'merican size sockets I don't ever use if one will work lol.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:48 PM   #98
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TS - have you gone any further with this?
I haven't heard anything about it either. I'd been debating on making one for myself. Those shuffle pinned blocks are a serious pain to split
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:10 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
To set an even height on the rings when sizing them use an old piston with only the second ring in place.

Seat new ring at top of cylinder then flip old piston over and push into the bore with the crown against the new ring. The second ring acts as a positive stop and sets and even height around the circumference of the new ring.

Also, oil the cylinder heavily to keep new ring from scratching the bore too badly.
I used this last time I set ring gaps thanks. I had just pushed a piston in and lined it up by eye but it's much easier with a ring, not sure why I hadn't thought of it before lol.
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:15 PM   #100
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How is everyone here torquing the block together? I notice when I do it that if I just follow the manual then some of the bolts are very noticeably different torque. I pretty much decided I just do it per the manual, and then I untorque and retorque one bolt at a time until they're all at the final values. It's more consistent for me that way that's for sure. I still use 30wt oil, I chase each bolt hole and each bolt prior to putting it together. I haven't had any case bolt holes actually need it though. The head bolt holes always seem to need it.
Maybe these are only issues I see because I'm using used blocks idk. If it were new blocks I think things would be more consistent with less effort.
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