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Old 02-07-2013, 11:53 PM   #26
Danomite
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I wish I would have known about this when I was having issues with my new built motor 3 years ago and my builder was blaming everything but the motor. It was the cams were too big for the turbo or I needed a standalone ecu. But he did replace the cams at no charge eventually.
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Old 02-08-2013, 03:51 PM   #27
climbhigh09
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^ this thread +your problem=no relation.
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Old 06-13-2013, 03:41 PM   #28
torbaru88
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TO OP: At what RPM were you experiencing the misfire? I think I may have to purchase this manifold now. My misfire is at 2000-2400 rpm. PM price/availability.

Thank you
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #29
Paidfor
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Thats one hell of a CNCd bandaid lol




Watever works tho .)
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Old 06-28-2013, 07:00 PM   #30
OctaneMatt
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We have a Cosworth 2.6L longblock that we will be firing up soon and the cam issues are a big concern. It was built mid or late last year. Is there an easy way to check for these issues (offset wheel, misplaced oil passage) now that the engine in the car?? Also, are the billet solenoid blocks available for purchase?

Thanks,
Matt
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Old 03-11-2014, 06:42 PM   #31
OctaneMatt
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Are these block available?
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:43 PM   #32
pet3r
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Pretty awesome troubleshooting and execution. My only question is why wouldn't the cam manufacturers send you new cams that were drilled properly? Was it just to get the car up and running, or for the fun of being a freaking awesome shop showing off to the subienet?
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Old 03-12-2014, 05:41 AM   #33
tomacGTi
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Because unless you've ever installed cams in a Subaru, you will not know how they are a PIA to do in the car.

You will explore every option to not have to pull the motor again, remove cams again, remove cam gears again replace seals again, reshim again and then reinstall. Not to mention downtime and actual time for the job and the potential for something to go wrong during the pull/reinstallation.

They had the means, tools and technology to fix a complete FUBAR without pulling the the motor. I would do the same if I had the same options offered to me.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:47 PM   #34
OctaneMatt
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We have suspect engine that is not running (still needs to be wired). Is there a simple way to check for bad cams without tearing it apart? I'm thinking it should be possible to pressurize a feed line and see which way the exhaust cam turns. Any tips? Thanks!
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:12 AM   #35
maverick83
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Default Tomei Poncams

Hi guys, we have just installed a Tomei poncam dual avcs kit on a 2011 STI and the nightmare began...
Exhaust side working properly.
Intake side completely stuck,right side always at zero degrees, left side always staying around 10/12 degrees even at idle,full load etc.
We have checked everything. Wirings,ECU,even simulate a current to the actuators... And here came the possible confirmation : when you put a current on right side the cam sensor gives an advance of 40 degrees and then comes back to zero.
On left side it goes to almost 60 degrees and then comes back again to 10/12 degrees.
So... Only on left intake shaft either the phase pin is wrong or the trigger marks read by the cam sensor are wrong!
Can you confirm that this difference between left side and right side could Shut all intake avcs part?
Very disappointed so far... I've already contacted Tomei and I'm waiting an answer soon.
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:24 AM   #36
Flat 4 Motorsport
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^^ I had a similar problem on a set of DAVCS Tomei Poncams on a customers car.

now after reading this thread, I'm 100% positive this was the problem. they would go go to full retard position as soon as the car would start and not zero themselves.

couldn't figure out the problem and ultimately swapped them for a set of Kelfords, after checking the build date the Kelfords were updated build date.

FWIW, I always use GSC cams. Never had an issue. Only reason Kelfords were used is they were availbale right away.

-Phil
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:53 PM   #37
maverick83
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Have you already called Tomei in order to complain?
If they get several feedback maybe they will resolve quicker...
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Old 03-31-2014, 03:54 PM   #38
mboulton
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what is the build date for the Kelfords that suggest they are okay? vs a defective build date I assume?
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:12 PM   #39
awenthol
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I just bought Kelfords about 2 months ago. AVCS holes are drilled correctly.
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Old 07-10-2014, 12:55 PM   #40
evasabzacami
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Default Tomei Poncam Dual AVCS problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by maverick83 View Post
Hi guys, we have just installed a Tomei poncam dual avcs kit on a 2011 STI and the nightmare began...
Exhaust side working properly.
Intake side completely stuck,right side always at zero degrees, left side always staying around 10/12 degrees even at idle,full load etc.
We have checked everything. Wirings,ECU,even simulate a current to the actuators... And here came the possible confirmation : when you put a current on right side the cam sensor gives an advance of 40 degrees and then comes back to zero.
On left side it goes to almost 60 degrees and then comes back again to 10/12 degrees.
So... Only on left intake shaft either the phase pin is wrong or the trigger marks read by the cam sensor are wrong!
Can you confirm that this difference between left side and right side could Shut all intake avcs part?
Very disappointed so far... I've already contacted Tomei and I'm waiting an answer soon.

Hi everyone from Russia.

I got the same problem with Tomei Poncam Dual AVCS set (260 degrees 9.8mm lift on the intake and 258 degrees 10.80mm lift on the exhaust).

The exhaust side was okay, on the intake - the right cam was offset by around 10 degrees, and the AVCS wouldn't work. We checked everything possible after there was nothing left but to take the engine off.

We found that one marker on the right intake cam was offset by around 1mm. So the ECU was confused as it got contantly different data from the markers.

We contacted Tomei last week and still waiting for their response.

So guys, check the cam markers to be identically spaced (around 18.45mm) before buying them.

This defect has caused me 2 months and around USD 2k:-(
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