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Old 02-08-2013, 10:50 AM   #176
Type2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climbhigh09 View Post
Those fuel injectors can really screw you. I had a bad install on mine (done by a shop) and they didn't un-seat themselves till I was 100s of miles from home. Then they started pouring gallons of fuel on a hot turbo. I ended up repairing the assembly in an autozone parking lot. Not fun.

Something to consider.
I printed out a coupon for a tap and die set at Harbor Freight for $12.99 and I was going to sit on it for a while. This convinces me to go ahead and tap the screw today and just be done with it.

Thanks for the insight.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:37 PM   #177
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ya def tap that screw or add a helicoil.

What did you do with that F-ed up injector? Sent it back?
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:41 PM   #178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
ya def tap that screw or add a helicoil.

What did you do with that F-ed up injector? Sent it back?
WitchHunters is going to put a new basket filter, pintle cap and test it for $20 - so I went that route. The seller is reimbursing me for this. I bought the set of 4 for $200 shipped. It was hard to pass up.

I don't know much about helicoil. I'll look into it.
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Old 02-09-2013, 07:49 AM   #179
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I'm a stone's throw away from starting the engine, but I somehow lost the IAT sensor cap and pigtail. I have absolutely no idea where it went. No one in town sells the cap either. I turned my garage inside out last night. Go figure. If I can't figure something out this will set me back almost a week to get it shipped. Nuts.

Also, I am trying to figure out how to hook up my Hallman Pro RX MBC to the TiAL EWG... I'm about 90% sure that the top port on the TiAL goes to the side port on the MBC, and the side port on the TiAL goes to my pressure source, which I tapped the throttle body for. The bottom port on the MBC should hook up to the pressure source as well (throttle body). I'll probably run a T from the throttle body to hook up the TiAL & MBC.

Now I just need to find the IAT plug so I can get this engine running.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:45 AM   #180
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Is the tap on + pressure tap on the TB before the plate? between the I/C and the plate? If not it needs to be.

MBC are plumbed in line, so + pressure to bottom port of mbc, then side port of MBC is plumbed to the side port of the tial. Top port of tial is a vent to atmosphere.

When I say bottom and side of MBC I mean

Adjustment knob [==T===> bottom fitting
............................II
......................Side fitting
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Old 02-09-2013, 12:26 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type2 View Post

Also, I am trying to figure out how to hook up my Hallman Pro RX MBC to the TiAL EWG... I'm about 90% sure that the top port on the TiAL goes to the side port on the MBC, and the side port on the TiAL goes to my pressure source, which I tapped the throttle body for. The bottom port on the MBC should hook up to the pressure source as well (throttle body). I'll probably run a T from the throttle body to hook up the TiAL & MBC.
Top port on tial is open. MBC goes inline of a pressure source (off turbo) to side port on wastegate
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:04 PM   #182
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I primed my engine - oil pressure is a go. Unfortunately, I had my line unhooked from the AVCS on my passenger side head and oil flowed on the wrapped downpipe. Any ideas? I am not taking the downpipe off. I thought about just starting it and letting it burn off while I had a running water hose next to the car in case it decided to get any fancy ideas.
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Old 02-09-2013, 08:30 PM   #183
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razor blade it off. I had a oil leak get on my wrapped uppipe and it smoked for months until I cut all the heat wrap off. Once the wrap was off, the clamps would slide around and Id cut em with dikes
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:01 PM   #184
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I have had oil leaks on my wrap during start up. It will burn off eventually depending on how much got on the wrap. Not suggesting you do so, but if you have stopped the leak and just need the oil burn off, just keep an eye on it.

FYI water is NOT effective at combating oil fires.
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Old 02-09-2013, 09:29 PM   #185
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Quote:
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razor blade it off. I had a oil leak get on my wrapped uppipe and it smoked for months until I cut all the heat wrap off. Once the wrap was off, the clamps would slide around and Id cut em with dikes
Damn. I was hoping not to do this. I don't want to pull the down pipe off, so if I cut it off ill probably never wrap it again.... Such a stupid mistake.
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Old 02-09-2013, 10:55 PM   #186
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How much did you spill? Oil on wrap does not mean an instant fire, especially with no airflow, and less heat than a header sees while driving.
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Old 02-09-2013, 11:05 PM   #187
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How much did you spill? Oil on wrap does not mean an instant fire, especially with no airflow, and less heat than a header sees while driving.
Enough to soak a 3 - 4 inch section of the pipe. Most spilled on the ground. I wonder if I threw some kitty litter on it if that would help lol jk
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:31 PM   #188
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Ready to fire up. Unfortunately Mikey sent me a map that was locked so I can't load it. I emailed him, just waiting now...
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:44 PM   #189
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Map loaded, engine turns over, but doesn't start. I checked the cam position sensors and they are plugged in. I removed the crank position sensor and it was clean. As far as I can tell, everything is plugged in correctly. I figured it would fire right up.

No problems with fuel.

Ideas?
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:54 PM   #190
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Check if the MAF is not facing the wrong way.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:57 PM   #191
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Originally Posted by manys View Post
Check if the MAF is not facing the wrong way.
I'm running speed density. The MAF isn't hooked up.
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:48 PM   #192
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Verified there IS spark. And fuel....
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Old 02-10-2013, 05:01 PM   #193
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Here is a video of the spark. It is also sparking from the side. Is that bad?


Last edited by Type2; 02-10-2013 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:08 PM   #194
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I replaced all 4 plugs and verified that each plug was getting spark, so that eliminates spark plugs and coil packs. After I replaced the plugs, the engine acted like it wants to start (see video below), but it seems to only be catching on one cylinder.

I'm sitting on 1/4 tank and I'm on ramps -- do you think I may be fuel starved? I can't imagine so, because there is a strong odor of gasoline coming from the engine bay despite there being no leaks. If I'm smelling gasoline, perhaps I have a vacuum leak? Maybe the fuel has gone bad? It's only sat for about 2 months, but I can imagine condensation getting in the tank especially since we have had some really cold weather...

The battery is sitting at about 50% charge. I am currently charging it now. I took it to O'Reilly Auto Parts and they tested the battery and it checked out OK.

Will a low battery keep it from starting, even though it turns over?

I'm running out of ideas here.

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Old 02-10-2013, 08:18 PM   #195
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Are the clips to the coils connected to the correct ones? Probably are getting fuel since you can smell it, it may be because the fuel you are getting isn't igniting.
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Old 02-10-2013, 08:36 PM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kakarot09 View Post
Are the clips to the coils connected to the correct ones? Probably are getting fuel since you can smell it, it may be because the fuel you are getting isn't igniting.
I'll double check, but the wires are different lengths and pretty much impossible to switch around. Thanks for the input though. Grasping at straws here.
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:28 PM   #197
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you could get a can of starting fluid and spray in into the intake manifold via a vacuum port. The engine vacuum will suck it to the correct cyclinder and if ignition is good it should fire. That would eliminate ignition as a problem.

You're sure timing is spot on? a tooth off could cause starting troubles, multiple teeth off and you'd know it... bigger problems

You reconnected everything, fuses and all, after priming the oil pump?

Only other thing I can think is that its flooded from when you checked spark on each. Fuel was being sprayed into the cylinders and not being burned.

No trouble codes? or were they all disabled with speed density?
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Old 02-10-2013, 09:37 PM   #198
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Quote:
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you could get a can of starting fluid and spray in into the intake manifold via a vacuum port. The engine vacuum will suck it to the correct cyclinder and if ignition is good it should fire. That would eliminate ignition as a problem.

You're sure timing is spot on? a tooth off could cause starting troubles, multiple teeth off and you'd know it... bigger problems

You reconnected everything, fuses and all, after priming the oil pump?

Only other thing I can think is that its flooded from when you checked spark on each. Fuel was being sprayed into the cylinders and not being burned.

No trouble codes? or were they all disabled with speed density?
I am pretty sure ignition is not a problem. I pulled out every spark plug and attached it to the coil pack and turned the engine over and verified that each coil pack functions as well as the spark plug.

I am not 100% on timing because I can't see it right now, but when I assembled the engine I was 100% sure that the timing was correct. I checked it multiple times, and took pictures. It's aligned perfectly. Perhaps it jumped a tooth after I installed it? If it jumped a tooth by just turning the engine over, then I've got bigger problems. I'm almost positive the timing belt is ok.

The only thing I forgot to plug back in was the knock sensor and I got a CEL for that. The only other code that was disabled w/ the speed density tune was the "MAF sensor circuit low input".

I double checked the cam position sensors and they are plugged in. Perhaps they went bad? I doubt it.

Re: flooding, I replaced the spark plugs and they were wet. The new plugs went in dry.

Thanks for the ideas!
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:48 AM   #199
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Is there any way I can check the O2 sensor or cam position sensors with a multimeter?

Edit - never mind re: cam position sensor - looks like I'd need a special tool. I think I'll pull those sensors out and wipe them down just to be sure.

Will a low battery keep the sparks from being "hot enough" to start the engine? I'm really reaching here...

Going to double check all the grounds...

Last edited by Type2; 02-11-2013 at 10:18 AM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:57 AM   #200
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No, low battery would not prevent The engine to start in any other way than not cranking fast enough.

Sensors almost never go bad.

Like someone else suggested, check if you plugged the wires into right coils. If not it would spark in wrong order and not start.
Black clips go to #3 and#4 cylinder. Thats on the bugeye ,not sure about later years.
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