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Old 02-11-2013, 05:47 PM   #126
mhoerath
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somewhere nasioc there's a spec the hub is bad or good depending on inside diameter. sorry cannot remember where. might even be this thread.
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Old 03-19-2013, 05:44 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Thanks - pin that came with replacement axle (EMPI) has no tapered end. Both ends look identical.
I don't know if you figured this out or not, it's a little late now, but the holes for the roll pins on these axles are drilled OFF CENTER... If you can not get the pin past the 1/4" point, you have to pull the axle off the stub and rotate it 180* and put it back... then it slides right through like it should...

I thought I might add this for any future reference..(I don't know why I'm posting this in a rear wheel bearing replacement thread, but there it is)
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Old 05-11-2013, 04:07 PM   #128
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I have a bit of advice, it might just be my wariness about applying force through the balls for install-

There is an adapter in the HF kit that will push on the outer race but will not push on the inner race. I use this to get the bearing in to the point where the adapter bottoms on the outer part of the housing, then I remove the tool and use the old outer race cleaned up with the bearings removed to push it the rest of the way. The housing is larger than the race until after the snap ring groove, so it does not get stuck.

I think some of the early second failures are from putting the install force through the balls and inner race.

A trick for a stuck race on the hub is to take a stick or mig welder and run a bead on the race, it'll pop right off.

Standard install info on any snap ring (it might have been said already) is to put the sharper edge against the part of the groove it holds force against, in this case towards the outside.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:01 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhoerath View Post
somewhere nasioc there's a spec the hub is bad or good depending on inside diameter. sorry cannot remember where. might even be this thread.
I found the Subaru publication that is referenced by motohippy and downloaded it from here:
http://www.ludicrous-speed.com/autom...za/fsm/Others/
(just right click the "Wheel Bearing Installation Guide.pdf" and hit save link as)

There's also this Endwrench PDF I found that seems to be the same (but with color pictures):
http://file.seekpart.com/keywordpdf/...6104638203.pdf

In the publication it says you're supposed to check the bearing housing for out-of-roundness. The guides don't say anything about checking the hub (except maybe checking the splines inside for pitting and debris). You're supposed to use a bore-hole gage and check the inside diameter of the bearing housing two times--once in the vertical, and once in the horizontal. If the bore hole measurements are different from each other by more than 0.02 mm you're supposed to replace the housing.

I didn't bother when I did this since I don't have a bore hole gage and my calipers don't do hundredths of millimeters.
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Old 06-12-2013, 09:14 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhoerath View Post
somewhere nasioc there's a spec the hub is bad or good depending on inside diameter. sorry cannot remember where. might even be this thread.
The MSA that motohippy references has a specification to check the bearing housing. It does not give any specs on how to check hub though. Is that what you're talking about?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CNY_Dave View Post
There is an adapter in the HF kit that will push on the outer race but will not push on the inner race. I use this to get the bearing in to the point where the adapter bottoms on the outer part of the housing, then I remove the tool and use the old outer race cleaned up with the bearings removed to push it the rest of the way. The housing is larger than the race until after the snap ring groove, so it does not get stuck.
I did this too! No mention of this at all in the walk-through, and I was scratching my head trying to figure out how to get the bearing in the rest of the way without pushing on the inner races.

Another tip for anyone wanting to do this: I was not able to rent a bearing splitter from any auto parts store like autozone/advance/o'reilly etc., but they had everything else: slide hammer, 2/3 jaw puller, hub flange for slide hammer, and seal driver. I was able to get the old bearing race off of the hub with just the 2/3 jaw puller and a little bit of ingenuity. The bearing splitter would have made the job a lot easier though.

In case there are folks out there wondering if they can do this repair, like myself before I attempted this: I have almost no experience working on cars and this repair was very doable. I know how to use tools, but I've never so much as done a brake job. This took me about 5 hours from start to finish. So, for those that might be a little on the edge just make sure you take your time, get the subaru MSA along with this walk-through and you'll be fine. It really beats taking your vehicle to the dealer/shop and shelling out $400-500 and not having a car for a week.
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Old 06-12-2013, 10:25 PM   #131
Rick in Pa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNY_Dave View Post
I have a bit of advice, it might just be my wariness about applying force through the balls for install-

There is an adapter in the HF kit that will push on the outer race but will not push on the inner race....
Thanks for this, great suggestion. Tried it today and it worked like a charm. 1 wheel down & 1 to go.

I'm wondering about the part of the writeup that says to install the hub just past the inner edge of the race. Elsewhere on the web I see advice to drive it flush with the end of the bearing. Any opinion on what's the best way to go there?
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Old 06-13-2013, 06:41 AM   #132
mhoerath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdmurp02 View Post
The MSA that motohippy references has a specification to check the bearing housing. It does not give any specs on how to check hub though. Is that what you're talking about?
yes, the post described an out of round spec for the housing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick in Pa View Post
I'm wondering about the part of the writeup that says to install the hub just past the inner edge of the race. Elsewhere on the web I see advice to drive it flush with the end of the bearing. Any opinion on what's the best way to go there?
A good practice is to note position before taking apart, and re install same way. The hub spindle is flush with the end of the bearing.
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Old 09-23-2013, 03:57 PM   #133
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Any idea how to get the bolts out of that ABS Ring? Dealership wants $120/front and $90/rear and my fronts are seized up solid. Two of the bolts were stripped, probably from the prior owner who had the bearings done.
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Old 09-23-2013, 04:46 PM   #134
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I've generally had decent luck using bolt extractors on stripped out allen heads. (disclaimer: never on the tone rings, mine came right out) One thing to be careful with if you try the extractors---if they break off in the bolt head, you're pretty much screwed as they're harder than any drill bit I've ever used. You also might be able to drill the heads off the screws to get the tone ring off of the hub.
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Old 09-24-2013, 10:48 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motohippy View Post
I've generally had decent luck using bolt extractors on stripped out allen heads. (disclaimer: never on the tone rings, mine came right out) One thing to be careful with if you try the extractors---if they break off in the bolt head, you're pretty much screwed as they're harder than any drill bit I've ever used. You also might be able to drill the heads off the screws to get the tone ring off of the hub.

Update: After soaking them in penetrant overnight, I was able to get them off with an extractor set. Thanks, saved me $120+. I used the 2nd biggest easy out, a 10mm socket with a rachet, and a pry bar and busted 4 of the 5 loose. #5 wasn't biting so I ended up drilling through the bolt head and used pliers to remove the threaded portion from the ring.

I have 170k miles on my Forester. It appears the inner seal failed. Also looks like prior "mechanic" used a punch to push the old race out vs a press or the HF bearing press kit when they replaced the bearing prior. I can only imagine what he used to press the new one in...
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:03 PM   #136
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Just finished the front wheel bearings using the Harbor Freight kit and everything worked great! Good write up.

Hardest part was pulling the hub using the slide hammer on one of my wheels that just wouldn't let go. Finally sprayed some PB blaster on the front and back side of the bearing and it broke loose.

Autozone is getting back a pretty wasted slide hammer though. My forearms are toast.
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Old 01-23-2014, 12:32 AM   #137
Jaime2
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Just took my rear bearings off today... I didn't have the quite the right tools, so here's what I had to do:





I didn't have a slug small enough to allow the bearing to pull up far enough past the lip of the hub, so I had to push it the last half inch with this jury-rigged setup. BTW, they couldn't have made the lip of the inner race any smaller - it's really hard to get a three-jaw puller to grip them.
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:24 PM   #138
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Would this work for a 03 WRX Wagon
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:02 PM   #139
mhoerath
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Originally Posted by RS19 View Post
Would this work for a 03 WRX Wagon
yes it will.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:29 AM   #140
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The cheap harbor freight bearing splitter works too.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:56 AM   #141
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I used this thread to help me change mine last night. I went through 2 salvage yard hubs in the last year so this time i decided to just buy the new tapered bearing style bearing and do it myself and not need to do it again.

I borrowed a bearing splitter and a two arm puller, and the guy I borrowed tools from gave me a tip to remove the outer race from inside the knuckle. He told me to weld around the inside of the race, let it cool and it will slide right out. Well almost, i welded the inside of the race and i was able to push it out with a screw driver. Then i just used a peice of thread rod, some washers and the old race to push the new bearing into the hub. Took 3 hours start to finish including a trip to the store for the 3 seals.
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Old 07-08-2014, 09:28 PM   #142
mhoerath
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Quote:
Originally Posted by no694terry View Post
buy the new tapered bearing style bearing and do it myself and not need to do it again.
My bearings have always been tapered roller bearings...pls tell me what the new style is? BTW used to live in Upper St Clair, PA.
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Old 07-26-2014, 05:04 PM   #143
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I think he's referring to the old-old style bearings that were used before the current tapered bearings were introduced...not sure when the change happened
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Old 08-31-2014, 11:53 AM   #144
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Can anyone comment on how to change out the grease in new bearings before install? Seems like I need to push out the plastic retainer to get to the bearings. Once cleaned and repacked do I reassemble with the plastic sleeve?

Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2014, 12:37 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowphun View Post
Can anyone comment on how to change out the grease in new bearings before install? Seems like I need to push out the plastic retainer to get to the bearings. Once cleaned and repacked do I reassemble with the plastic sleeve?

Thanks.
Yes, replace the retainer. It's only purpose is to keep the bearing together for installation. It slides out of place by the hub, when it is pressed in.

Remember to make sure all the original grease is gone prior to using another type.


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