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Old 02-12-2013, 08:18 AM   #1
Dmochowski
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Default Idea for building brake upgrade

Ok so i know ppl get flamed for talking about upgrading to four piston calipers for the wrong reasons so let me tell you why i plan on doing this.

I live in east TN with a lot of mountain roads, and went driving with some sti's over the weekend and after 10 minutes in the mountains my brakes were fading, mushy, and getting some vibration through the pedal and wheel. Other times i have driven through the mountains i have had to keep my speed down and engine brake a lot which isnt fun. Also would like to possibly autox this summer.

Now onto the setup (fronts only currently). i have looked into this and it seems i can get any year caliper and it will bolt up to my car, and use the 2004 5x100 sti rotors. Two options are finding a used setup taken off someone's sti but this option seems pretty expensive after looking around. The other is buy rebuilt calipers from this website: http://catalog.brakewarehouse.com/Sh...0Hoses&mode=PA

Now if these are good quality that might be the way to go. Either way i go i will end up buying new rotors and pads so.

Last thing are the lines. If i go with this do i need to just order SS braided lines for whatever year caliper i get and they will thread onto my car?



What do you guys think with buying rebuilt calipers from that site? I want to confirm if i get the calipers it will really only need after that rotors, pads, and lines. I dont want to get them and then realize they require something special to get this to work.

thanks for the opinions. ps i have considered dba rotors and hawk pads with MS brace, but that is half the cost almost of doing the four piston setup already and i am hoping the larger brakes would be more resistant to fade and just better tolerate heavy braking.
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:27 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmochowski View Post
i have considered dba rotors and hawk pads with MS brace, but that is half the cost almost of doing the four piston setup already and i am hoping the larger brakes would be more resistant to fade and just better tolerate heavy braking.
Umm 1/2 the price of brembos to buy a $100 MC brace from perrin or grimmspeed?
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:33 AM   #3
Dmochowski
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yes $500 for rotors pads and brace vs that plus another $600 or so for rebuilt calipers
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:50 AM   #4
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What pads are you running?
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:56 AM   #5
Dmochowski
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just the stock pads my car only has 10k miles so until recently have not had a reason to change anything.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:00 AM   #6
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You don't need brembos. You need pads designed for the purpose and quality fluid. Your calipers and rotors are fine.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:12 AM   #7
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You don't need brembos. You need pads designed for the purpose and quality fluid. Your calipers and rotors are fine.
Thank you
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:22 AM   #8
Dmochowski
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so with a good long run down a mountain heavy on the brakes the whole way there will be no advantage to brembos over my stock sized rotors and calipers?

not trying to be argumentative, if thats the case then i can use that money for other little things i would love to do with my car like replacing that horrible quality shift boot and e brake boot.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:31 AM   #9
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Yeah...boots.
Seems legit.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:43 AM   #10
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Quote:
Yeah...boots.
Seems legit.
I dont value your opinions since you have not provided any useful information. If you can not give me anything other than vague comments, or trolling for an argument please dont post anymore in this thread, thanks...
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:58 AM   #11
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Get some Hawk HP+ pads, some ATE Blue fluid, stainless lines, a MC Brace if you like and some rotors of your choice. Then go try that road
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #12
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Ate super blue ftl
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:12 AM   #13
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From the reading I have done on here it seems that slotted or drilled rotors really do not help that much with breaking performance. So if I go the above route I should really just save my money and wait until the rotors are warped or need to be replaced before getting anything different.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:16 AM   #14
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You need pads that are in the right heat range, regardless of what calipers are on the car. Drilled or slotted rotors aren't going to make a difference.

If it were me, I'd call KNSBrakes in North Carolina. Buy whatever pads they tell me to buy. As long as they're not Hawk HP+.

I'd also have them send me 2 bottles of Motul RBF600 brake fluid.

And a Motive Power Bleeder.

And be done.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:58 AM   #15
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Ate super blue ftl
Care to elaborate instead of giving teeny bopper answers? You're clearly capable of supporting your arguments, based on other posts.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:10 AM   #16
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Care to elaborate instead of giving teeny bopper answers? You're clearly capable of supporting your arguments, based on other posts.
SuperBlue is not DOT Approved and is known to dye the Master Cylinder Reservoir blue.

ATE Type200 is the same fluid as SuperBlue, except its cheaper, doesnt dye your Master Cylinder Reservoir blue, and is DOT Approved.

In actuality, for what he's doing, I'd do a complete flush with Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid available at any auto parts store for 1/2 the price of any of the above mentioned options. Thats what I run in my street and Dual Purpose cars.

A major perk of using an off the shelf fluid is that if you have a caliper that is being a bitch to bleed, or you screw up, you can just get more instead of waiting for more to be shipped in.
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxracer519 View Post
Get some Hawk HP+ pads, some ATE Blue fluid, stainless lines, a MC Brace if you like and some rotors of your choice. Then go try that road
HP+ pads are absolute garbage. Stay far away. I can't believe people still succumb to their marketing.

I personally like EBC reds, although the Stoptechs are getting good reviews and I'm going to try a set of them next.

ATE is good stuff for reasonably cheap. I swap between t200 and blue because it's easy to tell when you've flushed the system.

Rotors don't matter. No reason to replace what you've got until they're hashed.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
....... In actuality, for what he's doing, I'd do a complete flush with Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid available at any auto parts store for 1/2 the price of any of the above mentioned options.....
^ This. Complete flushout of the old fluid with new Valvoline synth fluid. New front brake pads, I suggest StopTech Street Performance. NOT Centric Posi-Quiet (Posi-Junk) those are not comperable. Please get matching pads for the rear as well.
Have your brake rotors turned if there is enough meat on them. Or new brake rotors via Autoparts store, Centrics, or Centric premiums. Skip the slotted and/or drilled fluff.
Brake lines only if yours are cracked and/or damaged. And if you need a little extra you could add in a brake master cylinder brace (TiC, Grimmspeed, etc). And I agree that KNSbrakes is a great place to start.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-18-2013 at 09:04 PM.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:17 PM   #19
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http://www.knsbrakes.com Let your wallet be your guide. They don't offer Ferodo for your car. The Valvoline synthetic fluid is great. No fluid fade at the track. Do NOT buy racing pads. They need some heat to work and tend to eat roters when cold.
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Old 02-13-2013, 01:24 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxracer519 View Post
Get some Hawk HP+ pads, some ATE Blue fluid, stainless lines, a MC Brace if you like and some rotors of your choice. Then go try that road


n0000000000000000000000OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooo oooo

forget the garbage hawk pads....they will make so much noise that you will want to stab your ears out with an atomic bomb


and as mentioned,. above, the ate type 200 is the better choice for ate fluid

the valvoline DOT4 is another good choice
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Old 02-13-2013, 07:42 AM   #21
Dmochowski
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Thanks for all the great info guys. Will start off with the basics first and see how that feels
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:43 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
SuperBlue is not DOT Approved and is known to dye the Master Cylinder Reservoir blue.

ATE Type200 is the same fluid as SuperBlue, except its cheaper, doesnt dye your Master Cylinder Reservoir blue, and is DOT Approved.

In actuality, for what he's doing, I'd do a complete flush with Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid available at any auto parts store for 1/2 the price of any of the above mentioned options. Thats what I run in my street and Dual Purpose cars.

A major perk of using an off the shelf fluid is that if you have a caliper that is being a bitch to bleed, or you screw up, you can just get more instead of waiting for more to be shipped in.
Thank you. This is quite helpful as I was also running superblue for auto-x purpose. It is convenient in the sense that you know when it's all flushed though.
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Old 02-13-2013, 10:58 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmochowski View Post
so with a good long run down a mountain heavy on the brakes the whole way there will be no advantage to brembos over my stock sized rotors and calipers?

not trying to be argumentative, if thats the case then i can use that money for other little things i would love to do with my car like replacing that horrible quality shift boot and e brake boot.
yeah what vision said.

The only advantage to brembos is more heat capacity. If your heating up after market pads with higher operating temps, then you should look into brembos.



just no hawk pads...... omg.... nooo..... i got them in a swap package.... ugh... cant wait to take them off.... there are much better options for cheaper.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:21 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmochowski View Post
Ok so i know ppl get flamed for talking about upgrading to four piston calipers for the wrong reasons so let me tell you why i plan on doing this.

I live in east TN with a lot of mountain roads, and went driving with some sti's over the weekend and after 10 minutes in the mountains my brakes were fading, mushy, and getting some vibration through the pedal and wheel. Other times i have driven through the mountains i have had to keep my speed down and engine brake a lot which isnt fun. Also would like to possibly autox this summer.

Now onto the setup (fronts only currently). i have looked into this and it seems i can get any year caliper and it will bolt up to my car, and use the 2004 5x100 sti rotors. Two options are finding a used setup taken off someone's sti but this option seems pretty expensive after looking around. The other is buy rebuilt calipers from this website: http://catalog.brakewarehouse.com/Sh...0Hoses&mode=PA

Now if these are good quality that might be the way to go. Either way i go i will end up buying new rotors and pads so.

Last thing are the lines. If i go with this do i need to just order SS braided lines for whatever year caliper i get and they will thread onto my car?



What do you guys think with buying rebuilt calipers from that site? I want to confirm if i get the calipers it will really only need after that rotors, pads, and lines. I dont want to get them and then realize they require something special to get this to work.

thanks for the opinions. ps i have considered dba rotors and hawk pads with MS brace, but that is half the cost almost of doing the four piston setup already and i am hoping the larger brakes would be more resistant to fade and just better tolerate heavy braking.
Brembo's w/ good pads are a HUGE upgrade over your stock brakes.

Brembo's w/ junk pads (like your stockers) are a modest upgrade in fade resistance - huge upgrade in feel.

Brembo front/stock rear - good pads/fluid - MUCH better braking

Add red 2 pot rears - even better

Add gold rears - getting pricey - but then you have STi brakes.



The calipers on that site are rebuilt by Centric - but look at the core charge. That brings it to $700+.

I just called Centric - they do not have any (last had them 9/2012)

It does say in stock but I would verify.

Those will be rebuilt w/ Centric seals.

-Ken
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:27 PM   #25
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Left a message w/ that company.

-Ken
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