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Old 02-12-2013, 03:17 PM   #276
griffinwert
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Thanks for the advice on the trunk Matt, came out a lot better with both parts at a 45, also got a good deal on a new batch of paint, the paint guy was very cool about it, I asked if since they gave me the wrong data if they could help me out on the paint, and they gave it to me for nothing,(it was supposed to be enamel, they gave me urethane) and gave me half of on the hardener and reducer. the color match was damn good, the finish however came out pretty rough, orange peely. I think it may be time for a new gun, I've shooting through my old mans Sherwin Williams HVLP sprayer which I'm guessing only shoots at about 13 psi. Gonna try color sanding it tonite, hopefully i'll have pics up tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #277
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I am thinking of getting my whole car painted the same color to freshen it up. Now I brought my car to a shop to get a estimate on some motor work. While I was there bull****ting around I was talking to the painter asking question like how much to fix this scratch and that door ding etc.. A little while later I was like well hell, how much to re-paint the whole thing the same color.( no jams, just outside) He replied, I will give you a killer deal and repaint the car for $1300 and wet sand and buff it to a mirror shine for a extra $200.. He told me to call around and I would see that it was a killer deal. Now I knew when he told me the price, it sounded very cheap. For this price I would assume he would NOT take my door handle, bumper, etc.. off and would only tape them and spray(but I don't know) I have seen some of his work as someone that works at the shop had him repaint most if not all of his front end on a 08'ish wrx and it looked/matched perfect as far as I could tell but I am not a painter and did not inspected it with a magnifier plus I know nothing about paint. So, what do you think? can I get a good paint job for $1500?? If he only is going to tape my car and spray for that price should I offer to take everything off myself to have it done the correct way? I need some feedback. Thanks
Anyone else?
Am i going to get the shaft or is it possible to get a good paint job for cheap? Or does this sound about the going rate??? Thanks
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:16 PM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nola
Anyone else?
Am i going to get the shaft or is it possible to get a good paint job for cheap? Or does this sound about the going rate??? Thanks
That's extremely cheap. Suggesting a price like that gives the connotation of a poor quality job, even though he could do amazing work.

If he is willing to spray it with the bumpers, lights, door handles, etc, still on the car I would avoid it. It could just be a painter looking to make a fast buck.

Is this a side job he was going to take, or have other employees prep the car through the business? Is that including materials?

Ultimately you get what you pay for.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:25 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffinwert
Thanks for the advice on the trunk Matt, came out a lot better with both parts at a 45, also got a good deal on a new batch of paint, the paint guy was very cool about it, I asked if since they gave me the wrong data if they could help me out on the paint, and they gave it to me for nothing,(it was supposed to be enamel, they gave me urethane) and gave me half of on the hardener and reducer. the color match was damn good, the finish however came out pretty rough, orange peely. I think it may be time for a new gun, I've shooting through my old mans Sherwin Williams HVLP sprayer which I'm guessing only shoots at about 13 psi. Gonna try color sanding it tonite, hopefully i'll have pics up tomorrow. Thanks again for all the help!
I'm glad to hear everything worked out well. So you ended up shooting a single stage enamel? Those paints usually like the traditional guns laid on thick. Definitely post up pictures!
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:30 PM   #280
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Im getting some $$ for some repairs from insurance so this is not a side job he is dealing with them for that. I asked instead of him getting all new oem parts and replacing how about i get/buy the fenders and what not myself bring everything to him and if so what would he charge to just paint the whole car the same color so it will look new.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:05 AM   #281
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Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
If he is willing to spray it with the bumpers, lights, door handles, etc, still on the car I would avoid it. It could just be a painter looking to make a fast buck.

Is that including materials?
I dont know how he is going to spray it, maybe with maybe without the stuff removed.

Yes this includes everything all materials.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:23 AM   #282
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1300 for an exterior respray ?

That just sounds SKETCH.

Check out his work, definitely ask about how he is going to spray it, leaving everything on the car is BOOTY and you will have problems later on with delamination from not getting everything prepped properly.

Does your car have any bodywork that needs to be fixed ? if so that is even more crazy cheap.

Just do your due diligence on the shop and the guy, ask what kind of materials he's using, removal and installation of things, if you can remove the stuff to make sure its prepped and sprayed correctly,turn around time etc etc.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:04 AM   #283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LUMBERZACK
Hey Matt, this isn't a question about painting a car, but I do a lot of airbrushing and have a question for you. I use Createx water-based paints for all my projects, I'm not sure if you are aware of the product or not, but you can buy it at most any craft store in 2 oz. bottles. My aunt wants me to airbrush her motorcycle helmet, which I am confident in doing, but I was curious to see if you would know if I could use the createx paint (i'm trying not to use Urethane paints like House of Color, auto air, ect.) and I could spray a professional clear with hardener over my artwork to make in look 'factory painted' if you will.
I do not have much experience with waterborne paint yet (although my rep keeps trying to get me to take a class). I would venture a guess and say you could use a urethane clear over it. As long as the base has ample time to cure. Any reason you don't want to use a HOK or DuPont?
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:08 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aphilli85
Ok so I got my 99 OBS back on the road after rebuilding the engine and now I've noticed that the roof appears to of developed a leak which I believe to be right at the top of the windshield.

Does anyone have any advice on how to repair this on a budget?

FYI: I do have autobody experience I just haven't had to do anything around a windshield except painting

Thanks
Is there any rust forming around the molding? Has the windshield been replaced? Bad seal job?

If there is rust check out this thread of mine:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2245842
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:16 AM   #285
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nola
I dont know how he is going to spray it, maybe with maybe without the stuff removed.

Yes this includes everything all materials.
I would definitely stay away. My wholesale cost on materials alone is around $600 to do an overall. That's for average quality materials. DuPont sealer, base, clear, reducers, activators. So that leaves less than a $1,000 for labor. Unless he has UNICEF for body techs the math doesn't add up for a quality paint job.

Do more research. Find out the materials.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:18 AM   #286
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arwing19
I am looking to re-paint my bumper spark silver on my 2009 Wrx. There are tons of paint chips in it and it is only going to get worse. I need a detailed set of instructions on how to a. Fill in the chips/make it look flush b. prep the bumper c. Paint it d. If possible prevent it from happening again (not using a clear bra) and a set of materials. Thanks!
Check the beginning of the thread, I think I described this process. If you have any other questions let me know.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:15 PM   #287
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
I do not have much experience with waterborne paint yet (although my rep keeps trying to get me to take a class). I would venture a guess and say you could use a urethane clear over it. As long as the base has ample time to cure. Any reason you don't want to use a HOK or DuPont?
I took the class sata offered us a few years ago, mainly for the free pizza and cookies. But its pretty basic. You still use the same 2 part urethane primers, sealers and clearcoats. Looks like you use dupont like me so the
g2779s all over clear and the spot and quick flash clear is good to go. Lower voc if your area laws call for it with groundcoats. The waterbase stuff certainly does cover super effectively but takes quite a bit longer to dry, you have to buy these crazy expensive fans and place in the corners of the booth to move all the air to dry it, but the real easy part is if something doesn't look right you just spray some water on it and wipe it off super easy and start over. Sata rep told us the 3000's we use are fine for waterborne so don't need to go out an buy a new gun right away, although if our area ever makes it mandatory ill just go ahead and buy a waterborne only gun and use the others I have for clear and sealer. We still use normal chromabase since they haven't made it law for our area yet but have we have the stuff for when they do. I've only sprayed waterborne twice and you'll be freaked the first time you spray it cause it goes on looking super dark but will dry to a good color match, blending with it might be a little scary at first. But seems to be a pretty simple system as only the basecoat and a few preperation steps have changed. At the time I took the class they had not developed 3 stage paints yet,just base/clears. No base/pearl/clears yet but Im sure they have now. Sounds like its much more of a change than it actually is.
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:33 PM   #288
nola
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Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post
I would definitely stay away. My wholesale cost on materials alone is around $600 to do an overall. That's for average quality materials. DuPont sealer, base, clear, reducers, activators. So that leaves less than a $1,000 for labor. Unless he has UNICEF for body techs the math doesn't add up for a quality paint job.

Do more research. Find out the materials.

Let me know if you have any other questions.
I ask what paint he was going to use and he said its a German paint. I cant remember the name. Do you think i should offer to remove everything for him so i know its done right?
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:51 PM   #289
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sikkens ? basf /Glasurit ?

walk away if hes saying he can do a full paint job on your car with that material for 1300.

That stuff costs more than the chromabase/chromaclear system I use and like matt stated it would be anywhere from 600-700 just for sprayable material.

Feels like dude is trying to butter you up and then use some junk paint and clear like duponts nason line or ppg's omni crap which is cheap as dirt and pretty much garbage.
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Old 02-13-2013, 08:26 PM   #290
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He said he uses that because he does alot of "exotic cars" and it matches better... i dont know what im gonna do now. Insurance company already wrote the check
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:34 PM   #291
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Thats all well and good. Its fantastic material. Alot of higher end car guys like to stick with those brands cause they are really good. The price just doesnt corelate. Unless hes stealing the material from the shop he works at. Then i guess that would make a little sense. Its jus a ton of work to do an exterior respray the correct way and thats like a 3rd of what most shops would charge for a starting base price.


So lets clarify. Does he want an additional 1300 to spray your entire car or 1300 and your insurance check to fix any damage and paint the rest of the car at the same time ? That would make more sense to me. Have customers all the time who get in an accident and we have to fix half their car and they just pay additional cash for labor and materials for us to paint the rest of it so the car is all fresh new paint.
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:10 AM   #292
nola
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No, he wants $1500 total to respray the car and wet sand/buff to a mirror shine. From what y'all are saying I wouldn't think he would take the lights,door handles,bumber, etc... Off for that price. (I bet he plans to tape off those things and spray) I wonder if I take those off for him if I will get a better paint job or do you think I would still get shafted?

Last edited by nola; 02-14-2013 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:55 AM   #293
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For 1400 I would for sure take the car apart to paint. Iam a painter and I've painted cars for 400-600 without taking them apart but the wrx is way to small to paint without doing jams an everything for 1400 . Just my 2 cents.
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Old 02-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #294
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He's not doing jams, just outside shell. I ask for price without doing the jams as I am wanting the same oem color and didn't think i needed it and figured it would save me some money.
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Old 02-14-2013, 03:03 PM   #295
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For 1400 I would for sure take the car apart to paint. Iam a painter and I've painted cars for 400-600 without taking them apart but the wrx is way to small to paint without doing jams an everything for 1400 . Just my 2 cents.

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Old 02-14-2013, 03:29 PM   #296
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Old 02-14-2013, 04:20 PM   #297
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Hes saying less than 1400 for jambs and exterior spray. I would highly question his experience and/or quality for that.
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Old 02-14-2013, 05:03 PM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I WANT AN STI
Hes saying less than 1400 for jambs and exterior spray. I would highly question his experience and/or quality for that.
Come on man, I appreciate your input on the thread and so do the other posters. Let's not turn this into every other thread on here. Let it be.
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Old 02-14-2013, 06:02 PM   #299
nola
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I will move on now, Sorry for all the questions, thanks for all the replies/help.
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Old 02-14-2013, 07:46 PM   #300
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Moving on then.
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