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Old 02-09-2013, 09:43 PM   #26
Frogsthatmoo
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I'll definitely make sure to take enough pictures. There's an online Subaru parts seller that has it for sale for $150 with tax. I'm not sure about the credibility of the site, but I'll probably try them out anyways.

http://www.subarupartswebsite.com/OE...2315AA420.html
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Old 02-10-2013, 10:40 AM   #27
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That place isn't too far from me. Do you know which gear set this part number is for?
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Old 02-10-2013, 07:51 PM   #28
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I was looking over the FSM regarding removal of transfer case and extension. It seems pretty straightforward. Anything besides changing the drive shaft seal fall in the 'while your in there' category? Should I expect a difficult time removing drive shaft flange bolts and center bearing mount bolts on a New England car? Also, manual shows liquid gasket for mating to transfer case to main case. Is there a gasket available?
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:39 PM   #29
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Any tips on the best way to prevent the main/driven shafts from rotating while you remove the 36/50 mm nuts? It would seem you wouldn't want to put that load on the R&P....
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:57 AM   #30
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You'll have to get crafty since you're not pulling the trans out and doing this "properly". Carefully and fully unstake the nuts before blasting them off, that's a given regardless. For torquing, you can try a wood wedge into the gears, or an aluminum/brass wedge would likely hold up better. Engaging a gear and having someone hold the brakes tight might be enough, but we're talking about 195 lb/ft on the big 50mm nut..... I guess my answer is whatever way you find to make it happen, with the least possible stress on the bearings or gear teeth.


Jay
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Any tips on the best way to prevent the main/driven shafts from rotating while you remove the 36/50 mm nuts? It would seem you wouldn't want to put that load on the R&P....
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Old 02-12-2013, 12:25 PM   #31
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That was the other guy; I wouldn't think about doing this with trans in car. I suppose a wedge in the 5th gears might work (the only ones exposed). The FSM only shows how to do it once the shafts are removed from the case. They essentially used shaped aliminum blocks clamped on one of the intermediate gears (in a vice) to prevent shaft rotation. Maybe an aluminum wedge between 5th gears? I suppose splitting the case and putting the same stuff back in wouldn't require re-shimming... Anyone know of a good Subaru transmission shop in eastern CT?
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:20 PM   #32
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With the trans out, splitting the cases and lifting out the shafts to do this is easy. Everything goes right back in without reshimming.

I use soft jaws in my vise to hold the reverse spur gear on the mainshaft and the 3-4 hub on the driven shaft.

Jay
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:31 PM   #33
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I think that's the way to go. I'm thinking maybe to buy a working used box and rebuild with my preferred 5th gearset to minimize down time. Thanks Jay.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:57 PM   #34
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The gears and shaft are easily capable of holding the torque required to remove the nuts without issue. The engine is turning out more torque than that and with the gear reduction it's much greater. Not to mention the torque spike those shafts and gears see if you sidestep the clutch.

The problem is getting the driven gear off the output shaft. It can be pressed on really tight and there is hardly any space behind it to get a puller in. You can't get a bearing splitter in either because the shift shafts and the input shaft block you. You don't really want to heat the gear up if you plan on re-using it, so that's not a good option.

This is the step I'm stuck on now. I have a grenaded WRX transmission that the only good gears left are 5th and I want to take them off with the transmission case together so I have a proof of concept to put it into the Legacy Outback trans in car. I've already broken one puller.
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:46 AM   #35
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Another vote for splitting the case....
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Old 02-13-2013, 12:11 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WoodsWagon View Post
The gears and shaft are easily capable of holding the torque required to remove the nuts without issue. The engine is turning out more torque than that and with the gear reduction it's much greater. Not to mention the torque spike those shafts and gears see if you sidestep the clutch.

The problem is getting the driven gear off the output shaft. It can be pressed on really tight and there is hardly any space behind it to get a puller in. You can't get a bearing splitter in either because the shift shafts and the input shaft block you. You don't really want to heat the gear up if you plan on re-using it, so that's not a good option.

This is the step I'm stuck on now. I have a grenaded WRX transmission that the only good gears left are 5th and I want to take them off with the transmission case together so I have a proof of concept to put it into the Legacy Outback trans in car. I've already broken one puller.
Good information. Thank you. What was the mileage on that dead WRX transmission? Do you think age/abuse of the transmission affects the ability to get the gear off without splitting the case?
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:07 PM   #37
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I found a local 5 speed from a '98 Outback that has the correct (4.11) diff gears. Does anyone know if this will bolt in to my '02 Outback? It appears to use the same clutch hydraulics and has a viscous center diff. Are there any things to watch out for doing this swap?
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:16 PM   #38
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5 speeds are pretty much 5 speeds i believe. all the cases being the same.


just make sure you put the dowels in the bell housing/engine case in the right spot (i.e line them up) before you try and put it in.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:23 PM   #39
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O.K. Thanks VF.
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Old 02-13-2013, 09:34 PM   #40
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Any wiring issues?
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Old 02-13-2013, 11:26 PM   #41
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98 is a 4 bolt bellhousing phase1 trans 02 is a 8 bolt phase 2.
It will bolt up.
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Old 02-16-2013, 06:15 PM   #42
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I bought my spare 5 speed today from a 2004 Impreza RS. First and 2nd gear are a little different than the Outback but no biggie. It has 4.11 and that saves me from removing untold numbers of corroded bolts to swap out the rear end...
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:52 PM   #43
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I got the gear off the WRX transmission. I warmed the gear up to 260f with an inductive heater and was able to pull it off using the two jaw puller with the hooks ground thin enough to fit between the gear and the bearing.

I did have some small chips spalled out of the corner of a couple of teeth due to the puller breaking when trying to pull it cold. I don't think they will affect the strength of the gear, they are tiny chips, but it's still unfortunate.

Heat is the key. I wouldn't do it with a torch because you're liable to overheat the teeth before the body of the gear warms up which will take the heat treat out of the steel and ruin the gear. With an inductive heater you wrap a coil around the gear and it heats the whole gear evenly from the inside. You can also hold a thermocouple on the gear while heating it so you know right when to switch it off and start cranking the puller.

I took the rest of transmission apart after getting 5th off, and man did the PO smoke first. 6 teeth missing out of the driven gear and all the teeth gone off the drive. Plus chunks got caught in the ring and pinion and chipped them. Toast!

Now that I have the pulling method worked out I can swap the gear with the transmission in the car. I just finished up doing the clutch in it so all the bolts are anti-siezed and it will be easy to get into. Sometime in the next couple of weeks.
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Old 02-16-2013, 09:31 PM   #44
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Interesting... what does an inductive heater like that cost?
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:41 AM   #45
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The Exedy kit KSB04 is listed on Amazon for $153, nice price O.K. but the photo only shows the pressure plate and nowhere in the listing does it specifically say what is included in kit. Anyone purchase this kit from them can verify it has pp, disk. t.o. bearing, pilot brg and alignment tool?
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:20 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeC5 View Post
Interesting... what does an inductive heater like that cost?
Only $750...
It's not mine, I borrowed it. It's a pretty cool tool to have though.
http://www.fluxeon.com/web_store/pro...products_id/29
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:52 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeC5 View Post
The Exedy kit KSB04 is listed on Amazon for $153, nice price O.K. but the photo only shows the pressure plate and nowhere in the listing does it specifically say what is included in kit. Anyone purchase this kit from them can verify it has pp, disk. t.o. bearing, pilot brg and alignment tool?
Take a look at this clutch kit on ebay. I have this same one right now with a F1 racing light weight fly wheel and love it!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GF-PREMIUM-H...84a0cf&vxp=mtr
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:15 PM   #48
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Ok, so here's the deal.

I have a 96 impreza 5 spd obs wagon and it is a little notchy going into 2nd and 3rd now. I found a guy local here selling a 2001 outback 5 spd that is supposedly in good condition and shifted fine before the vehicle was hit. I have been wanting to switch to a 4.11 fd tranny and keep finding 98-2001 rs trannys but always out of state...

Since I just found this one tranny local to me with the 4.11 fd I was looking for, I would really like to do that. However, it does have the 0.871 5th gear and with the 4.11 fd produces too high of revs at 60 mph plus on the freeway. So, I have been thinking of switching it over to a 02-05 wrx 0.738 5th gear so I can have lower revs for highway cruising which should be about the same that I have right now for my 3.9 fd tranny.

I am about to do an engine hybrid swap ej251 block and rebuilt and cammed 2.2 heads into my wagon so having a bit better ratio 1st and 2nd with the 4.11 fd would be nice but the nice 5th gear for highway cruising. I have taken trannys out before and cracked one open with a friend once so I am not new to this. I also have another friend who works at a local subaru shop here who really knows his stuff.

I have the tools to get everything apart like a nice 3/4" drive 40" breaker bar.. just not the 50 and 36mm sockets, yet.

Any other good places to get this wrx 5th gear assembly?

Last edited by subi400; 02-18-2013 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 04:32 AM   #49
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Twice I have done this for bugeye WRX customers who had highway commutes. Before we swapped gearboxes for them, we would open it up and put the 0.73 stock WRX 5th gear in the box. Thing is like a rocketship to 110mph+/- and then they can still cruise the highway at 75mph without running the engine at 4000+

The only place this really doesn't work is if you want to track the car. Then the 4-5 shift just has way too big rpm drops and takes all the fun out of going to the track with it.
I've been considering doing this, but with an RA 1-4 into a 3.9 FD gearbox. Less rocketship, but gets you to ~132 MPH in 4th at 8k redline. Much less limiting than 112-ish of the 4.44
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:46 PM   #50
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Take a look at this clutch kit on ebay. I have this same one right now with a F1 racing light weight fly wheel and love it!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GF-PREMIUM-H...84a0cf&vxp=mtr
If the car wasn't a daily driver I might roll the dice and try it. I've never of GripForce but I hope you have good luck with it... I feel more comfortable going with a well known brand.
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