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Old 02-06-2013, 11:59 AM   #26
949
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is it the depth or is it the cut out that is the issue?
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Old 02-06-2013, 12:11 PM   #27
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Quote:
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is it the depth or is it the cut out that is the issue?
The cutout. I can't say for sure whether the depth will be an issue (2 5/16" is RIGHT on the cusp of being too deep to clear the window without a spacer), but the cutout for the ES-6 is 5.81" (HUGE). A "normal" 6.5" speaker has a cutout of about 5" and the OEM hole is not much larger than that. In order for the basket to seat flat on the inner door skin, you need a spacer to move the basket away from the door skin. While you are at it, your spacer might as well be cut for the 5.81" cutout requirement.

I can't find a basket diagram for the CDTs (what CDT calls "technical specs" is nothing more than a sales brocure: http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/tech_specs_pdfs.htm) and the last 3 times I called CDT to determine the cutout the technical "specialist" argued with me that all 6.5" speakers have the same size cutout. After pressing him to measure it and having a 5-minute debate with him on WHY I might need that info, I finally told him to do some research on what constitutes a normal cutout and hung up.

The speakers that you want are not even on the "ES" series sales brochure: http://www.cdtaudio.com/pdf/tech_pec.../es-series.pdf
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:28 PM   #28
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weird?? i got that model directly from their web site
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Old 02-06-2013, 08:43 PM   #29
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weird?? i got that model directly from their web site
The speakers are on the website, but they are not listed on the ES Series spec sheet. The page for the speakers shows the mounting depth but nothing on the site shows the cutout. I have it from making adapters for another Subaru owner.
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Old 02-08-2013, 07:51 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by luan87us View Post
2 Ohm gives better protection with smaller gauge wires (aka factory wiring).
I don't mean to cause a stink, especially since I'm a noob to this forum, but the post I've quoted is incorrect. Using a 2 ohm speaker will actually increase the wattage going through the factory wire, not decrease it. However it doesn't matter, as the factory wire is more then capable of safely conducting 2-3 times the amount of power that most people will put to their door speakers. Also, using a 2 ohm speaker with the stock deck could potentially damage the amplifier circuit of the deck as it was not designed to run that low of an impedance.

The only rational reason to run 2ohm door speakers is to get more power out of the amp that is driving them. This does come at the expense of sound quality though as most amps will produce increased distortion at lower impedance levels.
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:28 AM   #31
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how i have to look for a local store that has them.
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Old 02-11-2013, 10:12 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbmonster View Post
I don't mean to cause a stink, especially since I'm a noob to this forum, but the post I've quoted is incorrect. Using a 2 ohm speaker will actually increase the wattage going through the factory wire, not decrease it. However it doesn't matter, as the factory wire is more then capable of safely conducting 2-3 times the amount of power that most people will put to their door speakers. Also, using a 2 ohm speaker with the stock deck could potentially damage the amplifier circuit of the deck as it was not designed to run that low of an impedance.

The only rational reason to run 2ohm door speakers is to get more power out of the amp that is driving them. This does come at the expense of sound quality though as most amps will produce increased distortion at lower impedance levels.
c
Hmm I'm pretty sure you're incorrect in a way. What you're talking about is wire size and how much current they can carry. The coil in most speakers are 4ohm which in term means more resistance aka requires more power to power the speakers. This is why the wires will heat up if they're not the right size because of the ammount of current the speakers are trying to get. Using 2ohm speakers requires LESS power to run the speakers so the wires won't have to carry as much current in them. But you're right about it'll make the amp heat up faster. So make sure to use a good after market amp instead of the stock HU. This is where I recommened Infinity because they are dual coil so you can use either 2 or 4ohm safely.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:20 PM   #33
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Default 2 ohms not adviseable

2 Ohm speakers aren't advisable, unless you're SURE your amp has been engineered to handle that.

Couple reasons:
The lower the resistance of the speaker, the more effect the gauge of the cable has. Power lost to wire resistance is based on the current going through it. Less resistance at the other end (speaker) means your demanding more current - which in turn means there's more energy lost to just heating up your cable.

Speaking of current, if your amp is NOT designed to go down to two ohms (per channel) you can easily do damage to your amp by demanding more current out of it than it was designed to give. This'll manifest itself in something internally melting or thermally destroying itself.

I don't know what is meant by 'protecting' the speaker from something the wire does to it... If a speaker is blowing out, it's most likely because it can't dissipate the heat that the user is pushing through it. If a speaker is designed to handle 100 watts RMS, and 300W peak, for example, then it's expecting to see between 100 and 300 watts, but not on a regular basis - i.e. only for transients in the signal (kick drum & snare drum hits, etc). Only a portion of the power applied to any speaker is turned into acoustic energy, the rest becomes heat - or mechanical damage. If it sees that kind of power too often, or too consistently, then it can't dissipate all that power (as heat) and will thermally breakdown. This implies the user needs a speaker with a higher RMS wattage rating (a higher peak rating will just result in similar damage again) - or an amp with a lower wattage rating...

Best of luck,
- K
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:53 PM   #34
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yes of course my amp is 2 ohm. i wouldnt even go this route if it didnt have that option. i have been doing stereo installs for a long time and i have to say im still learning as there is always something changing or just something i have never encountered.
as for the amp, it actually says i can get more power out of it if i use a 2 ohm speaker. i dont have to do anyting else. which i have never done this before with it. and i have own this amp for a years now. i am curious what it will sound like with a 2 ohm speaker.

from the manual book:

AMPLIFIER STAGE
Distortion – THD (1kHz): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.009 %
Bandwidth (-3dB): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Hz 85 kHz
S/N ratio(A weighed @ 1V): . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 dB
Damping factor (1 kHz, 4 Ohms): . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Input sensitivity: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.2 5 VRMS
Input impedance: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15kOhms
Load impedance:
- 4 Ch. stereo: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 – 2 Ohms
- 2 Ch.mono in bridge: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Ohms
Nominal output power (RMS)
NP@ 12VDC;THD 0.3%: . . . . . . . . 60W x 4 (4 Ohms)
Output power (RMS) @ 13.8 VDC;THD 1%
- A config.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65W x 4 (4 Ohms)
- B config.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105W x 4 (2 Ohms)
- C config.: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210W x 2 (4 Ohms)
- D config. (3Ch.): . . . . . 65Wx2 (4 Ohms) + 220Wx1 (4 Ohms)

im doing the B config. i have always used the A config. its decently loud with that setting but im curious what i can do with config B.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:15 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KensAudio View Post
2 Ohm speakers aren't advisable, unless you're SURE your amp has been engineered to handle that.

Couple reasons:
The lower the resistance of the speaker, the more effect the gauge of the cable has. Power lost to wire resistance is based on the current going through it. Less resistance at the other end (speaker) means your demanding more current - which in turn means there's more energy lost to just heating up your cable.

Speaking of current, if your amp is NOT designed to go down to two ohms (per channel) you can easily do damage to your amp by demanding more current out of it than it was designed to give. This'll manifest itself in something internally melting or thermally destroying itself.

I don't know what is meant by 'protecting' the speaker from something the wire does to it... If a speaker is blowing out, it's most likely because it can't dissipate the heat that the user is pushing through it. If a speaker is designed to handle 100 watts RMS, and 300W peak, for example, then it's expecting to see between 100 and 300 watts, but not on a regular basis - i.e. only for transients in the signal (kick drum & snare drum hits, etc). Only a portion of the power applied to any speaker is turned into acoustic energy, the rest becomes heat - or mechanical damage. If it sees that kind of power too often, or too consistently, then it can't dissipate all that power (as heat) and will thermally breakdown. This implies the user needs a speaker with a higher RMS wattage rating (a higher peak rating will just result in similar damage again) - or an amp with a lower wattage rating...

Best of luck,
- K

Great post! Pretty much exactly what I said but in better detail.

To the OP, yes running your amp at 2 ohm is perfectly fine, just not many people do it (for door speakers at least, subs are a different story) mainly because 2 ohm door speakers are not very common, or easy to find.

My best advise is to pick your speakers based on sound quality not whether they are 2 or 4 ohm. Yes 2 ohm will be SLIGHTLY louder, but it won't sound any better. You should go to a local car audio shop and listen to several brands of speakers and see what you like, and go from there.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:24 AM   #36
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i cant seem to find any stores that have something hooked up.
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Old 02-15-2013, 02:44 AM   #37
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You will run higher wattage at a lower impedance but the SQ will be affected. I have read that higher resistance will produce greater SQ. This why many home stereos for surround sound are at 8 ohms. For door speakers, you would probably want to shoot for 4 ohm's. Usually one would want to go 2 ohms for a subwoofer set up to take advantage of the increased in power delivery if the amp is stable at those levels. SQ from 2 and 4 ohms may not be dramatic, but it is something to definitely think about.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:55 AM   #38
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That's a bummer, where do you live?
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Old 02-15-2013, 06:31 PM   #39
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socal. lots of stores are closed and the left over ones dont display them like before.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:44 PM   #40
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You do realize that the wire in your speaker coil is a lot thinner than the factory gauge wiring, right?

I've been pushing 250w/channel on factory wiring into 4ohm speakers for several years now w/o any issues...

The problem with dropping your amp down to 2ohm loads is that you'll have a bit more distortion, and the amp will run a lot warmer also.
That's probably what is up with that 0.3% THD... I bet that's the 2ohm rating... You can find lots of amps out there with 0.004 or lower THD at 4ohm...

-- Dave
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Old 02-16-2013, 12:01 PM   #41
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... anyways back to the original post,
is the CDT speakers good or should i consider something else?
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Old 02-16-2013, 01:03 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 949 View Post
... anyways back to the original post,
is the CDT speakers good or should i consider something else?
I have heard a lot of CDT customers comment that the bang for the buck is high on the CDT lineup across the board. Not just people I made adapters for, but on audio websites as well. If you are set on a 2 ohm speaker setup, CDTs are probably a safe bet.

Would I buy them? No, but only because I would not buy a 2 ohm speaker for front stage. I would consider other CDT models (and other brands) if I were buying 4 ohm speakers in that price range.
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Old 02-16-2013, 02:24 PM   #43
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I have run CDTs in the past as my front stage. I certainly liked them, but they didn't prove as reliable as some other sets I've had in the past. The woofers gave way after about 8 months. I think specifically the tinsel leads broke...I replaced them with the pioneer woofers I have now and they've held up for several years w/o issue.

-- Dave
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:09 AM   #44
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would it better because im using coaxle
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:33 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 949 View Post
would it better because im using coaxiale
Most likely not. Chances are that the timsel leads are the same across the prodict line.

Burning tinsel leads in front stage drivers is not all that common, so take that for what it is worth. Aqua Cow may have just had a bum set.
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Old 02-18-2013, 08:06 PM   #46
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Oh, I didn't burn them, they just literally snapped from fatigue... didn't deal well with the woofer moving so much. Probably wrong type of copper, or poorly supported.
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:25 AM   #47
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ok so if CDT's are not good then what else is a good option?
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:36 AM   #48
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All of the focal comp set speakers are a 2 ohm load
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:45 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by chris9167 View Post
All of the focal comp set speakers are a 2 ohm load
Actually Focal does have a few component sets that are 2ohm, but the majority are 4 ohm, including all of the entry level "Access" line. but props for recommending Focal, it's one of my favorite brands. I would highly recommend them.
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:56 PM   #50
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If you have the cash, this is arguably one of the absolute best component systems on the market that's available in 2 ohm, but it's far from cheap.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165K...r-165KRX2.html

These are from Focal's entry level lineup, they're much more affordable, and still an amazing set of speakers, but they're not available in 2 ohm.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165A...-165A1-SG.html
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