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Old 02-17-2013, 07:32 PM   #1
freezingcoffee
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Default Need help removing lat link bolt

I'm in the process for changing my rear wheel bearings. I was wondering if anyone can help me remove the bolt from my rear lateral link. I tried everything, a breaker bar, cheater bar on my breaker bar, and loads of PB blaster......The nut came off fine, just the other side is frozen.

I'm in Billerica MA

If anyone can help, I would really appreciate it.
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:52 PM   #2
J.Gibbs
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Cut it in a few spots and hit the end with an air hammer. Get a new bolt and just replace it using some antiseize when reassembling
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:57 PM   #3
freezingcoffee
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I moved up to this area not to long ago, all of my good tools are down in Virginia, such as my air compressor, air guns, and etc. I currently working with some hand tools. I wish I had my air hammer here
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:01 PM   #4
J.Gibbs
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Torch of some sort? Maybe rent one. Those are the two main ways to get those frozen long bolts out. Heat or air hammer
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:40 PM   #5
BlazeRex
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Good luck with getting that out without a torch and air hammer at minimum!
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:34 AM   #6
freezingcoffee
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I got my driver's side bolt out, after a lot of cursing, and taking a break to eat and watching the all-star game. I used a breaker bar with a cheater bar, until the bolt could be turned with just a breaker bar, and kept turning that until I could turn it with just a ratchet all while drenching the bolt with PB blaster.
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:06 AM   #7
timeXlost
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When I removed mine...I cut it into 3 pieces and removed the pieces after. Been turning wrenches professionally for 10 years...not even joking when I say these are the hardest bolts I've ever had to remove.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #8
vision.dynamix
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Cut it out, replace it along with the lateral link bushings.

Its actually the crush sleeves in the bushings that the bolt is seizing onto.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:32 AM   #9
Wicked Innovation
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The bolt tends to seize into the bushing sleeves, you can sometimes get the front one loose and then remove the rear lateral link with the bolt. What I do that usually works well is to loosen the nut and then thread it on the bolt so the bolt comes just to the end (not tight). Air hammer the bolt toward the rear of the car until the front bushing sleeve is free of the bolt. Now put the nut back on and tighten the bolt back down. Using a long (3' or more) bar, overtighten the head of the bolt so that it snaps off. It's surprisingly easy to do considering it's M14. With the head off, you can hammer the bolt forward to free it from the rear bushing sleeve. If you can't get it free from the rear link, just remove the link and either replace it or press the remainder of the bolt out of the sleeve.
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Old 02-18-2013, 10:38 AM   #10
psm04wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timeXlost View Post
When I removed mine...I cut it into 3 pieces and removed the pieces after. Been turning wrenches professionally for 10 years...not even joking when I say these are the hardest bolts I've ever had to remove.
Cake work for me
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:33 AM   #11
remotehuman
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all is lost, easier to get a new knuckle and lateral links
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:36 AM   #12
delongedoug
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I just had to do my rear wheel bearing a month or so ago. I like to do as much work as possible on my own or with the help of my friends, but after realizing what I was going to be in for with that bolt, I decided this was one time bringing it to a shop would be worth the money. I also considered just replacing the knuckle itself. God speed, sir.
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Old 02-18-2013, 11:44 AM   #13
XplicitRacingDesign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psm04wrx View Post

Cake work for me
You got lucky then. My car was stuck on my friends lift for a few days because of those bolts and no one had new ones in stock. He has been a mechanic for 10+ years (professionally). And is very meticulous and careful not to destroy anything, but those bastards were NOT coming out.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:51 PM   #14
i_adz
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I recenIy changed them on my 99 2.5rs.. I went to the dealer and they had them in stock.. I pulled mine out with some pb blaster and a breaker bar in my driveway..
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:52 PM   #15
J.Gibbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i_adz View Post
I recenIy changed them on my 99 2.5rs.. I went to the dealer and they had them in stock.. I pulled mine out with some pb blaster and a breaker bar in my driveway..
We always have some in stock, since they are notorious for being a major PITA
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:56 PM   #16
timeXlost
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Originally Posted by psm04wrx View Post
Cake work for me
8====D ~~~~
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:58 PM   #17
vision.dynamix
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Cut it off and get yourself a set of adjustable lateral links. Saves you a ton of time and doesn't cost that much more.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:59 PM   #18
psm04wrx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timeXlost View Post

8====D ~~~~
You mad bro?!?!
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:10 PM   #19
Psychoreo
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Good luck. I'll be trying to do the same on my 230,000 miles of new england car this week.
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Old 02-18-2013, 03:27 PM   #20
gustavito63007
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W.I. Did mine. Good thing too as wasn't sure what I was getting myself into
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:51 PM   #21
Snowphun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wicked Innovation View Post
The bolt tends to seize into the bushing sleeves, you can sometimes get the front one loose and then remove the rear lateral link with the bolt. What I do that usually works well is to loosen the nut and then thread it on the bolt so the bolt comes just to the end (not tight). Air hammer the bolt toward the rear of the car until the front bushing sleeve is free of the bolt. Now put the nut back on and tighten the bolt back down. Using a long (3' or more) bar, overtighten the head of the bolt so that it snaps off. It's surprisingly easy to do considering it's M14. With the head off, you can hammer the bolt forward to free it from the rear bushing sleeve. If you can't get it free from the rear link, just remove the link and either replace it or press the remainder of the bolt out of the sleeve.
What a mess Subaru left us to deal with. I replaced one years ago without an air hammer, I think I blocked most of it out as all I remember is lots of PB Blast, massive cheater bar and banging with a mallet.
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Old 02-18-2013, 09:22 PM   #22
psm04wrx
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97 impreza L wagon
beater black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by XplicitRacingDesign View Post
You got lucky then. My car was stuck on my friends lift for a few days because of those bolts and no one had new ones in stock. He has been a mechanic for 10+ years (professionally). And is very meticulous and careful not to destroy anything, but those bastards were NOT coming out.
My car is a 97 with over 200k miles ...used a torch and an air hammer and within 15 minutes it was out. I've been a tech for 8 years now.
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:36 AM   #23
Psychoreo
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Did my knuckle tonight. It looks like someone already did the hard part and used never seize or similar when putting it back together. At least they did that right considering how bad they buggered up the bearing...
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Old 02-21-2013, 04:03 AM   #24
vision.dynamix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychoreo View Post
Did my knuckle tonight. It looks like someone already did the hard part and used never seize or similar when putting it back together. At least they did that right considering how bad they buggered up the bearing...
I love that feeling!
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Old 02-27-2013, 07:35 PM   #25
freezingcoffee
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W00t!! Driver's side took 3-4 hours..... Passenger Side took 10min.... The passenger side was soaked in PB blaster a couple of different times and was wet from the rain today since I decided to do it after I drove home from work. My car is a Northern Virginia car, so it does see salt but not as much as you folks every winter.
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