Tricks of the "trade" (group effort) - Page 4

wrxsubiemod · 10-22-2012, 05:54 PM

Yeah, I found a bluepoint socket that fits perfect on the allen heads. Just keeping my fingers crossed I don't run into that issue again.

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izergfx · 10-22-2012, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Crystal_Imprezav

You have to have the exact right size phillips and use either an impact driver or a mini-impact gun and they come right off. Took a long time to find a bit that fits it just right but once I did, I have not stripped one again.

Bingo. I use this: http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...1&blockType=G1 with (iirc) the second largest phillips bit (if not, the largest) and have never had an issue.

340Duster · 10-25-2012, 04:55 PM

Front cam cap bolts have a different torque spec than the rest, but it isn't mentioned in the 2002 service manual.

It's easier to drill cam bolts IMO than sitting there with an impact gun rounding the socket out or almost tipping the engine stand over with a breaker bar.

Permatex Ultra Gray is just as good as Fuji Bond and costs a quarter of the price and you can get it at any auto parts store.

+1 on using a piece of round stock to knock wrist pins out.

The handle of a large adjustable wrench can work as a wedge between the flywheel and block if you need to keep the crank from turning.

Not engine related:

As already mentioned, you can remove the trans without taking the front suspension on either side off to get the axles out.

Axle pins will only drive back in from one side, even 180 off apparently isn't machined well enough for it.

You can drop the rear diff without removing any of the cross member by pulling the studs out of the diff cover.

Justin V · 10-25-2012, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 340Duster

The handle of a large adjustable wrench can work as a wedge between the flywheel and block if you need to keep the crank from turning.

I bought a $1.50 piece of strap steel at lowe's and drilled the holes out a little bigger to fit over the bell housing stud and then bolt the other end in with a clutch cover bolt.

Strap steel was by the fence hardware (latches, l brackets, etc) probably only 4" long

340Duster · 10-25-2012, 05:07 PM

That sounds like a lot of work

Good idea tho!

kakarot09 · 10-30-2012, 01:33 PM

Anyone have any cool tricks or custom tools to install cosworth wrist pin clips? Unless someone has another idea I'll end up making my own tool, just havent really decided the specifics yet. I like the piston design but as a company they pretty much piss me off. No reason to use that kind of clip over a style with tabs to grab with pliers except to make more money on the installation tool. I'm 100% not buying the $200+ tool from cosworth.

Flat 4 Motorsport · 10-30-2012, 01:39 PM

Spiral clips are a bitch!

They use that design, because theyre virtually impossible to fall out at high rpm.

I just have experience removing them and they're are a bitch removing. A set of snap ring pliers may do the trick.

kakarot09 · 10-30-2012, 03:27 PM

Well the normal ones still fit inside the same groove so I don't see how they have more chance to come out. Maybe I'm missing the point idk. But snap ring pliers don't work because there isn't anything to grab to compress them when you install. They use just a round clip with no holes or tangs of any kind. If the engine were like other engines where you install the pistons to the rods before putting them on the crankshaft it wouldn't be that hard. But since you have to put the clips in the hole in the case it looks like it will be a pain.

340Duster · 10-30-2012, 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kakarot09

Well the normal ones still fit inside the same groove so I don't see how they have more chance to come out. Maybe I'm missing the point idk. But snap ring pliers don't work because there isn't anything to grab to compress them when you install. They use just a round clip with no holes or tangs of any kind. If the engine were like other engines where you install the pistons to the rods before putting them on the crankshaft it wouldn't be that hard. But since you have to put the clips in the hole in the case it looks like it will be a pain.

Pardon the ignorance, but are the grooves in a way that you can't use the normal clips?

kakarot09 · 10-30-2012, 03:38 PM

Visually it looked like the cosworth clips are larger diameter. I can measure them later to see if that is actually the case. I'll try to do that tonight.

kakarot09 · 10-30-2012, 08:42 PM

Well its obvious to the eye but I measured them anyway and they are different. I think different enough that I would not want to use OEM in the cosworth pistons.
Cosworth

Stock

Anyway, talked to another person on here who had the same issue. Basically did what I was going to do, just used a piece of 1" thin wall aluminum tube to hold the clip and then he said he used a 16 or 17mm socket as the plunger. As long as I can find a piece of tubing that's what I'll do too.

ckyguy68 · 10-30-2012, 09:16 PM

JE Internal snap rings FTW!

biodude · 11-01-2012, 11:22 AM

cheap and quick cam alignment tool.

After getting tired of fighting the drivers side cam gears when doing my timing belt I dug around in my scrap pile and made this using a few 6mm bolts washers and a few nylon locking nuts. You can find this stuff at just about any hardware store.

the 6mm bolts have a 10mm head that will fit the cam bolts, I snugged down the locking nuts enough to hold the bolts still but yet allow me to rotate the sprockets, once I get them in the right spot a quick turn on lock nuts hold everything in place good enough to work with.

I cant really take credit for this since I came across a similar post where someone made similar by drilling out a piece of flat stock, this was easier since the holes in the angle iron worked out perfectly.

As an added bonus, see where I cut it up top, I can use the remaining flat section with one hole drilled larger to catch a flywheel bolt and a transmission dowel so I can lock the crank in place for flywheel and crank bolt removal and installation

Patrick Olsen · 02-04-2013, 02:37 PM

Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.)

I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?

340Duster · 02-04-2013, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.)

I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?

I drove mine out with a long piece of 1/4" rod and a hammer. It is possible to do, just takes some finagling

jchafee · 02-04-2013, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.)

I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?

Don't know if it has been mentioned. But putting heat to the top of the piston always helps them slide out nice and easy for me.

Patrick Olsen · 02-05-2013, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 340Duster

I drove mine out with a long piece of 1/4" rod and a hammer. It is possible to do, just takes some finagling

Thanks, took another look at it tonight and found that you are correct. Got 4 of the 6 out, need to pull the engine off the stand so I can get to the circlip on the rear DS piston, then I'll be able to get those last 2 pistons out.

kakarot09 · 02-06-2013, 09:13 PM

How do you guys remove the alignment dowels that are between the head and block. The machine shop usually does this for me and isn't an issue, but when I need them out myself it sucks. Haven't looked at taps yet but they seem too thin to tap and use the bolt trick.

Turn in Concepts · 02-06-2013, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kakarot09

How do you guys remove the alignment dowels that are between the head and block. The machine shop usually does this for me and isn't an issue, but when I need them out myself it sucks. Haven't looked at taps yet but they seem too thin to tap and use the bolt trick.

Grind a socket down so it just slips inside and then use channel lock pliers to grip it and turn/wiggle it out. The socket gives you a backing so you don't crush the dowel.

There are collet style slide hammer dealies that will do it nicely, BUT I don't reuse them once they are out so the $250+ seems like wasted money to me.

Turn in Concepts · 02-06-2013, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Team Scream

I designed a tool for splitting the case halves. I have not completed it yet, but when I do, I will make a few of them and offer them to those who may want them.

Here is the original post I made about it last year:
Team Scream Case Splitter

And here is a drawing I sketched up in Illustrator to show the concept.

I will be diving into this tool to try and complete it as soon as I get these 2 engines built.

The concept is to use the crank as a fulcrum, a used set of head bolts as the pulling agents, and tooling that bolts to the flywheel contacts @ the back of the crank, and uses a rubber pad between the tooling and the front of the crank.

Essentially, the used head bolts will separate the case halves from the dowels and sealant by keeping the crankshaft stationary.

This is a rough sketch of what it looks like so far, but if you visualize it, you will get the picture pretty easily.

No pounding on the case, no prying, no damage the the mating surfaces or dowel pins from cocking the case halves. Just clean, perfect separation which is what you want when you want to inspect main bearings and impart no additional scoring or damage during the case splitting process.

TS - have you gone any further with this?

Turn in Concepts · 02-06-2013, 10:36 PM

To set an even height on the rings when sizing them use an old piston with only the second ring in place.

Seat new ring at top of cylinder then flip old piston over and push into the bore with the crown against the new ring. The second ring acts as a positive stop and sets and even height around the circumference of the new ring.

Also, oil the cylinder heavily to keep new ring from scratching the bore too badly.

kakarot09 · 02-06-2013, 10:50 PM

Those collet style slide hammer dealies are what my machine shop uses. They're pretty nice I'll try the socket thing. I'll use one of my 'merican size sockets I don't ever use if one will work lol.

3MI Racing · 02-06-2013, 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts

TS - have you gone any further with this?

I haven't heard anything about it either. I'd been debating on making one for myself. Those shuffle pinned blocks are a serious pain to split

kakarot09 · 02-21-2013, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts

To set an even height on the rings when sizing them use an old piston with only the second ring in place.

Seat new ring at top of cylinder then flip old piston over and push into the bore with the crown against the new ring. The second ring acts as a positive stop and sets and even height around the circumference of the new ring.

Also, oil the cylinder heavily to keep new ring from scratching the bore too badly.

I used this last time I set ring gaps thanks. I had just pushed a piston in and lined it up by eye but it's much easier with a ring, not sure why I hadn't thought of it before lol.

kakarot09 · 02-21-2013, 04:15 PM

How is everyone here torquing the block together? I notice when I do it that if I just follow the manual then some of the bolts are very noticeably different torque. I pretty much decided I just do it per the manual, and then I untorque and retorque one bolt at a time until they're all at the final values. It's more consistent for me that way that's for sure. I still use 30wt oil, I chase each bolt hole and each bolt prior to putting it together. I haven't had any case bolt holes actually need it though. The head bolt holes always seem to need it.
Maybe these are only issues I see because I'm using used blocks idk. If it were new blocks I think things would be more consistent with less effort.

11-01-2012, 11:22 AM	#88
biodude Scooby Specialist Member#: 271720 Join Date: Jan 2011 Chapter/Region: Tri-State Location: NEPA	cheap and quick cam alignment tool. After getting tired of fighting the drivers side cam gears when doing my timing belt I dug around in my scrap pile and made this using a few 6mm bolts washers and a few nylon locking nuts. You can find this stuff at just about any hardware store. the 6mm bolts have a 10mm head that will fit the cam bolts, I snugged down the locking nuts enough to hold the bolts still but yet allow me to rotate the sprockets, once I get them in the right spot a quick turn on lock nuts hold everything in place good enough to work with. I cant really take credit for this since I came across a similar post where someone made similar by drilling out a piece of flat stock, this was easier since the holes in the angle iron worked out perfectly. As an added bonus, see where I cut it up top, I can use the remaining flat section with one hole drilled larger to catch a flywheel bolt and a transmission dowel so I can lock the crank in place for flywheel and crank bolt removal and installation Last edited by biodude; 11-01-2012 at 02:45 PM.

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10-22-2012, 05:54 PM	#76
wrxsubiemod Scooby Specialist Member#: 165104 Join Date: Nov 2007 Chapter/Region: SCIC Location: name where you like it Vehicle: E85 bug-i sti swap Phatron tuned	Yeah, I found a bluepoint socket that fits perfect on the allen heads. Just keeping my fingers crossed I don't run into that issue again. * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

10-25-2012, 04:55 PM	#78
340Duster Scooby Specialist Member#: 52314 Join Date: Jan 2004 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Upstate South Carolina Vehicle: 2002 PSM WRX 16G-XT '13 500 Abarth	Front cam cap bolts have a different torque spec than the rest, but it isn't mentioned in the 2002 service manual. It's easier to drill cam bolts IMO than sitting there with an impact gun rounding the socket out or almost tipping the engine stand over with a breaker bar. Permatex Ultra Gray is just as good as Fuji Bond and costs a quarter of the price and you can get it at any auto parts store. +1 on using a piece of round stock to knock wrist pins out. The handle of a large adjustable wrench can work as a wedge between the flywheel and block if you need to keep the crank from turning. Not engine related: As already mentioned, you can remove the trans without taking the front suspension on either side off to get the axles out. Axle pins will only drive back in from one side, even 180 off apparently isn't machined well enough for it. You can drop the rear diff without removing any of the cross member by pulling the studs out of the diff cover.

10-25-2012, 05:07 PM	#80
340Duster Scooby Specialist Member#: 52314 Join Date: Jan 2004 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Upstate South Carolina Vehicle: 2002 PSM WRX 16G-XT '13 500 Abarth	That sounds like a lot of work Good idea tho!

10-30-2012, 01:33 PM	#81
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	Anyone have any cool tricks or custom tools to install cosworth wrist pin clips? Unless someone has another idea I'll end up making my own tool, just havent really decided the specifics yet. I like the piston design but as a company they pretty much piss me off. No reason to use that kind of clip over a style with tabs to grab with pliers except to make more money on the installation tool. I'm 100% not buying the $200+ tool from cosworth.

10-30-2012, 01:39 PM	#82
Flat 4 Motorsport NASIOC Vendor Member#: 295846 Join Date: Sep 2011 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Location: Crook County, Illinois Vehicle: WRX FP HTA GT3076R Sexual Chocolate	Spiral clips are a bitch! They use that design, because theyre virtually impossible to fall out at high rpm. I just have experience removing them and they're are a bitch removing. A set of snap ring pliers may do the trick.

10-30-2012, 03:27 PM	#83
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	Well the normal ones still fit inside the same groove so I don't see how they have more chance to come out. Maybe I'm missing the point idk. But snap ring pliers don't work because there isn't anything to grab to compress them when you install. They use just a round clip with no holes or tangs of any kind. If the engine were like other engines where you install the pistons to the rods before putting them on the crankshaft it wouldn't be that hard. But since you have to put the clips in the hole in the case it looks like it will be a pain.

10-30-2012, 03:38 PM	#85
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	Visually it looked like the cosworth clips are larger diameter. I can measure them later to see if that is actually the case. I'll try to do that tonight.

10-30-2012, 08:42 PM	#86
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	Well its obvious to the eye but I measured them anyway and they are different. I think different enough that I would not want to use OEM in the cosworth pistons. Cosworth Stock Anyway, talked to another person on here who had the same issue. Basically did what I was going to do, just used a piece of 1" thin wall aluminum tube to hold the clip and then he said he used a 16 or 17mm socket as the plunger. As long as I can find a piece of tubing that's what I'll do too.

10-30-2012, 09:16 PM	#87
ckyguy68 NASIOC Supporter Member#: 316296 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Metro Detroit Vehicle: 2006 STIROID GT3794@30psi	JE Internal snap rings FTW!

02-04-2013, 02:37 PM	#89
Patrick Olsen NASIOC Supporter Member#: 120 Join Date: Jul 1999 Chapter/Region: AKIC Location: Where the Navy sends me... Vehicle: 1997 Legacy 2.5GT QuickSilver Metallic	Any more tips on the piston pin removal? I'm working on an EZ30, so I don't think the "push it out from the other side" trick works due to the 3rd rod/piston being in the way. (I'll take another look tonight just to make sure I'm not missing something.) I made a tool with some 1/4" steel rod from Big Orange Racing Supply. I think I'll probably buy the HF slide hammer setup previously mentioned. Any other comments on tricks to force out a stubborn pin (or 2 or 4 or 6)?

02-06-2013, 09:13 PM	#93
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	How do you guys remove the alignment dowels that are between the head and block. The machine shop usually does this for me and isn't an issue, but when I need them out myself it sucks. Haven't looked at taps yet but they seem too thin to tap and use the bolt trick.

02-06-2013, 10:36 PM	#96
Turn in Concepts NASIOC Vendor Member#: 93646 Join Date: Aug 2005 Chapter/Region: MWSOC Vehicle: Many Track Records Let us help you go fast!	To set an even height on the rings when sizing them use an old piston with only the second ring in place. Seat new ring at top of cylinder then flip old piston over and push into the bore with the crown against the new ring. The second ring acts as a positive stop and sets and even height around the circumference of the new ring. Also, oil the cylinder heavily to keep new ring from scratching the bore too badly.

02-06-2013, 10:50 PM	#97
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	Those collet style slide hammer dealies are what my machine shop uses. They're pretty nice I'll try the socket thing. I'll use one of my 'merican size sockets I don't ever use if one will work lol.

02-21-2013, 04:15 PM	#100
kakarot09 Scooby Specialist Member#: 182375 Join Date: Jun 2008 Chapter/Region: SWIC Location: Northern Nevada Vehicle: 08 Sti Wrbm	How is everyone here torquing the block together? I notice when I do it that if I just follow the manual then some of the bolts are very noticeably different torque. I pretty much decided I just do it per the manual, and then I untorque and retorque one bolt at a time until they're all at the final values. It's more consistent for me that way that's for sure. I still use 30wt oil, I chase each bolt hole and each bolt prior to putting it together. I haven't had any case bolt holes actually need it though. The head bolt holes always seem to need it. Maybe these are only issues I see because I'm using used blocks idk. If it were new blocks I think things would be more consistent with less effort.