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![]() Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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#1 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 58094
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Somerville, MA
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi WRB |
Two questions:
1) What's the proper torque spec for the bolts securing the rear strut tophats to the chassis? (2004 STi) 2) Other than loose bolts securing tophats/strut assembly to the chassis - what could cause a rattling/clunking from right rear tire area? These are new struts - not clunking struts! All interior pieces in this area have been tightened and re-secured. Leading me to believe it's something loose in the suspension component. Help?
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#2 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 58094
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Somerville, MA
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi WRB |
Follow-up - I'd like to double check everything is tightened to spec (had a problem with loose endlinks after swaybar install - tightening bolts there fixed another clunk from front-end). If that fails, will investigate other potential issues.
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#3 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 21808
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: National Capital Region
Vehicle:02 GroceryGettAr Nonemore Black |
AFAIK the tophat to chassis bolts are and always have been 14.5 ft-lb (20 Nm)
A more common cause of rattling is the actual strut topnut (41 ft-lb or 55 Nm) which is harder to torque adequately As you say, endlinks are another common source |
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#4 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 58094
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Somerville, MA
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi WRB |
Thanks for the help here. I'm hoping to torque these down after work tonight.
It shouldn't be a problem to check the chassis bolts with a torque wrench. Will the top-nut be trickier? |
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#5 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 21808
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: National Capital Region
Vehicle:02 GroceryGettAr Nonemore Black |
Yes it will be trickier.
If you have stock struts, there is a hex head in the top of the shaft which you can use to hold it from turning. You will need a pass-through type socket. In the past I have managed to do a final torque by using an offset box wrench to hold the nut and then torquing the hex. Or you can sometimes get enough grip with a rubber strap wrench on the strut. It allows you to use a regular socket/torque wrench on the nut. With most aftermarket struts that's your only option. |
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#6 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 58094
Join Date: Mar 2004
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Somerville, MA
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi WRB |
I've got brand new Ohlins fixed perch struts, which were professionally installed.
I've been hearing this sound after installation. I had problems with loose endlinks in the front soon after install, so I'm skeptical of proper torquing. I want to try to re-torque the rear strut to rule out the rattle coming from that area of the vehicle. Thanks, I'll see what I can do. If it's this tricky, I can see why they may not have torqued it properly. |
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#7 |
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Scooby Guru
Member#: 21808
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region:
E. Canada
Location: National Capital Region
Vehicle:02 GroceryGettAr Nonemore Black |
In that case you should talk to your installer - the torque specs I gave you are for stock pieces
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#8 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 294069
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: NE Iowa
Vehicle:04 Impreza RS PSM |
the tophat on my rattling strut was defective, causing the strut top nut to not be physically able to tighten it down, the nut was at the end of the threads, couldnt tighten any more, yet there was wobble room for the tophat between there, that was the rattle. Used my old tophat, problem fixed. yay
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