Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Saturday April 19, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
Click here to visit TireRack
Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack

Losing traction? Need new tires?
Click here to visit the NASIOC Upgrade Garage...
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Brakes, Steering & Suspension

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-23-2013, 03:47 PM   #1
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default DIY front axle / knuckle on WRX (with pictures)

Well, I've taken some pictures from today's install on 2002 WRX sedan (axle + replacement knuckle).

Tools you need:

I did not have to use ball joint separator; instead used arm puller, which pretty much does the same thing.



You absolutely must have a roll punch set. Not needed on certain model year.



1. Use 32mm socket to remove axle nut with wheel on the ground. Once removed, go ahead and remove wheel, caliper, etc....

2. Use a roll punch kit to remove the pin (pin comes out of flat side / not chamfered side). One useful tip is to have both front ends off ground, which will allow you to turn axles freely.



3. Remove 19mm bolt and use tie rod end separator to separate it from the knuckle. Never use ball joint fork kit which will 100% damage the boot (this step not necessary if you're not going to remove the knuckle).






4. Remove pin from the ball joint nut. You can find replacement pin from autozone for cheap.



5. Use arm puller to separate ball joint from the control arm. You will hear a loud pop when it separates!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by txl146; 02-23-2013 at 07:09 PM.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 03:51 PM   #2
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

6. Remove 2x19mm bolts/nuts from the strut, which will allow you to remove the knuckle from the control arm/strut. Axle can now be also removed (skip this step if you're just replacing axles).

Axle can be removed by pulling it toward you. You will need to wiggle around the knuckle in order to have enough room to remove axle.



7. EMPI vs. Stock Axles (I am returning them for a refund due to poor fitment).




Removed knuckle with 105k miles, which will be replaced with knuckle from 2007 WRX with 55k miles. I plan to install new ball joint & new wheel bearing.



8. Make an appointment to get wheel alignment done!

Make sure to apply enough anti-seize when putting back everything!!!

Last edited by txl146; 02-23-2013 at 04:26 PM.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 03:58 PM   #3
vision.dynamix
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 139955
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:
2015 Subaru STI
Development Car

Default

If you're just doing the axle, you can leave the knuckle attached to the strut. This will allow you to skip the alignment afterwards.
vision.dynamix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 04:29 PM   #4
alx8283
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 225024
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA, Earth, ...
Vehicle:
2002 wrx
PSM

Default

Txl, what was the fitment issue for you? Larger boot contacting the bottom of the strut?

I've never used roll punches. I've got a round file that gets in there, and a $1 screwdriver with the head cut off

Ps, great write up as usual!
alx8283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 06:29 PM   #5
Counterfit
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 124254
Join Date: Aug 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Rhode Island
Vehicle:
2006 06 SGM Slowbaru
"The Scoobinator"

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
You absolutely must have a roll punch set.
Only if you have female axles.
Counterfit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 08:02 PM   #6
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

Thanks everyone for your input.

alx8283, fitment issue I was having is pin hole not aligning correctly and one axle not sliding in no matter what I did (2nd one slid in without any issue). I decided to just keep OEM stock axles as reason for replacing nuckle/axles was to replace bad ball joint.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 08:06 PM   #7
vision.dynamix
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 139955
Join Date: Feb 2007
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Boston
Vehicle:
2015 Subaru STI
Development Car

Default

Rotate the axle 180* if the pin isn't lining up. It is NOT exactly centered.
vision.dynamix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2013, 08:22 PM   #8
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

I did try to rotate the axle, but still wouldn't align correctly. To make it worse, only one of two axle slid in completely.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2013, 09:29 PM   #9
alx8283
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 225024
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: San Diego, CA, USA, Earth, ...
Vehicle:
2002 wrx
PSM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146 View Post
Thanks everyone for your input.

alx8283, fitment issue I was having is pin hole not aligning correctly and one axle not sliding in no matter what I did (2nd one slid in without any issue). I decided to just keep OEM stock axles as reason for replacing nuckle/axles was to replace bad ball joint.
That's too bad. I've used EMPI axles on quite a few subarus and vw's with zero fitment problems. It happens though, and at least you were able to reuse your stockers

Oh yeah, one more step: stake the new axle nut.
alx8283 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2013, 08:13 PM   #10
txl146
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX VF34
Junior Tuned 301whp

Default

I just received replacement used OEM axle purchased from eBay in awesome shape. Install went smoothly without any fitment issue.
txl146 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 07:53 PM   #11
SirRichieLee
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 331655
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Nevada
Vehicle:
2006 WRX Wagon
Crystal Gray Metallic

Default

How about installation? I'm having trouble getting the hub back into the arm
SirRichieLee is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.