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Old 04-28-2003, 04:07 PM   #26
fastfood
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Default A helpful note

A bouncy ride is a sign of an "underdamped" system, so by decreasing the damping, the bounce will not go away. You want to do the opposite and raise the damping. Downeyer seems to have figured this out by going up to 5. The ride will get harsher, but less bouncy. It sounds as if the springs on the 7/5 setup are a bit too stiff for the shocks.
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Old 04-28-2003, 08:13 PM   #27
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Update on my Cusco Zero-2Rs (7/5 Springs).

I had the damping set at 5/5 to reduce the oscillation on the interstate. About 5 days later, the ride gradually became VERY rough. I backed the damping down the 3/3 because the roughness was given me a headache. I'd rather have the osciallation than a bruised brain... Anyway, after backing the damping down, I noticed that the osciallation was no longer present at 3/3. I was amazed. A couple hundred miles (like neverendingmods said) and the springs will break in. I now have the dampers set at 2/2. Very nice ride. I took a short trip over the weekend (120 miles round trip) and the car was greatly. I did notice that the stretch of interstate between my home and work is not the best. The majority of the interstate causes no problems for the Cuscos.

Last Friday, I had an alignment shop set my car up to the following specs.

Front Camber: -2
Front Toe: 0
Rear Camber: Non-Adjustable...ended up at -1.1
Rear Toe: 0

I must say, after the alignment and the springs breaking in, the car handles like a dream. I autoXed on Sunday at 5/5 damping and my mouth about dropped to the floor. I couldn't believe how well it handled...something like a go-kart. I thought swaybars made a huge difference...whatever!!! This is the cat's meow. Almost zero body roll, no nose diving into the corners. My g/f (who rides passenger with me all the time) couldn't believe it either. I had a slight bit on understeer, but I was able to get neutral handling by adjusting the tire pressures. I was running on old and worn Yoko AVSis. Can't wait to see what the Azenis Sports will do : )

As for noise, I have absolutely none. There is a little more noise on the inside of the car (my factory gauge pack making the most noise as I go over bumps). No noise from the suspension. ZeoGeo, you may want to go through a retorque the nuts, bolts. If you need torque values, let me know.

-Eric
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Old 04-29-2003, 12:05 AM   #28
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Downeyer- Sounds good! Sunday is my chance to play w/them on. I get a lot of vibrations that rattle my dash like crazy. I'm gonna do a rattle-hunt soon and take care of it. I attribute it mostly to the Azenis.(well worth it). I'm even riding around w/34psi all around. Tried 40psi and couldn't take it for very long. Have you got to try the car at high speeds? So much more stable and flat.
ZeoGeo- pull the back seat out and convince a buddy or girlfriend to ride in the back and see if the sound is at top or bottom mounting points. Get the torque settings from downeyer, those lower bolts require a lot of torque.

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Old 04-29-2003, 12:23 AM   #29
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Must be the super stiff walls on the Azenis tires I also plan to do a rattle hunt...although, I may want to wait until I get the Azenis on

Yes, I agree....high speed to not so white knuckle anymore. I have much more control of the car.

This is my best mod yet I probably would have went with the JICs if it wasn't for your input Eric. Thanks a bunch!!
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Old 04-29-2003, 12:37 AM   #30
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Downeyer-
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Old 04-29-2003, 07:58 PM   #31
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NeoGeo...here's the toque specs

Top three nuts on both front and rear: 20 Nm or 14.5 ft-lbs.
Lower two big nuts on front strut: 190 Nm or 140 ft-lbs.
Lower two big bolts on rear strut: 220 Nm or 162 ft-lbs.

The reason why the torque on the rear is higher is because you'll be torquing on the bolt instead of the nut. It will be impossible to get to the nut with a torque wrench.

One thing the service manual does suggest is replacing all twenty nuts. This is probably because the nuts are torqued to yeild from the factory. I replaced these with new ones, but have not heard of anyone else doing this. Either way, I think you should be fine. Replacing the nuts is probably overkill.

Also, remember to mark a line on the upper of the two big bolts on the front strut. This upper bolt is the camber bolt. Mark a line with a paint marker or something similar on the bolt and the strut to make sure the bolt is oriented properly back to the same position that it is in now. This will ensure that your alignment stays in place (I'm assuming Rallispec aligned your car after the installation...if they didn't, forget this part). Probably shouldn't move too much if you are just doing a torque check.

One more thing, you may want to check to see how the springs are seated. Grab hold of the spring and see if you can pull it up off of the collar. If you can pull it up off of the collar, then this may be causing your noise. To fix it, just run the collar up until the spring is properly seated and cannot be lifted off of the collar. Make sure to measure the distance between where the spring sits and the lowest locking collar (or some other fixed point) and set the left and right sides equal.

Hope this help - Eric
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Old 04-29-2003, 09:30 PM   #32
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NeoGeo,

I just went driving around in my car with the windows up and the stereo off. I do hear a very faint poping when I am travling very slow or slowly coming to a stop. It doesn't really bother me much because as soon as I drop a window on turn the radio up, I can no longer hear these sounds. Actually, I was struggling to hear the pops as it was with all the road noise from my tires. My hearing is not bad either I hope your's is no worse than mine. I plan to do a torque check on everything when my new wheels and tires arrive.

-Eric
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Old 04-29-2003, 11:11 PM   #33
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Downeyer,

Thank you so much for all the help! Yes it's kinda hard to hear, but mine is definitely there. I can hear it better w/ windows up. I hope it's just the pillow mount or the unseated springs, and not the big bolts crapping out on me.

I just began to hear this noise couple days ago, that's after a 300 mile drive to Rallispec and back and testing it out on a country road with a friend and 150lbs of junk in the car. I only hear it when the car's slowing down to a halt...the best way I can describe is like shocks having that engine cooling effect right after you shut it down, only with a lot fewer pops. When I get time later this week I'll do what you and neverendingmods said and try to figure this thing out.

Normal driving is fine...no clunks over speed bumps or pot holes. (Fingers crossed)

Have you guys tried setting the damper at 3 in the front and 2 in the back? I have a cusco v.2 lower bar and rear sway bar (mid hole) in addition to the zero2r's, and I was getting a bit of initial understeer. I hope this 3/2 might help, reason being that our cars are front heavy, w/ higher spring rates in the front.
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Old 04-29-2003, 11:53 PM   #34
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NeoGeo, keep us up to date on your findings.

As for the damping, try playing with your tire pressures first. I've been able to induce oversteer or understeer by increasing the difference between the front and rear tires pressures. Depending on how high you run your tires pressures, reducing or increasing the rear tire pressure may induce oversteer.

If this doesn't work, I'd say go 2 front / 3 rear instead of 3 front / 2 rear. By going 2 front 3 rear, it's like adding a stiffer rear swaybar.

-Eric
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Old 05-02-2003, 02:39 PM   #35
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Update on my zero2r: I raised my rear two up a little bit yesterday, and checked the bolts...they seem okay. I also adjusted the spring perch so the springs set better on it. Nothing I did helped with the low speed nosie though.

THis morning I took the car in for alignment. The tech, who seemed very knowledgable, rode in my car and told me the rear popping noise is just the pillowballs clunking. I guess there's nothing much I can do about it then.
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Old 05-13-2003, 01:15 AM   #36
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Neogeo-my right rear makes a few pops over the 1st two speed bumps in my development than goes away. My rear sway bar makes all kinds of noise(poly bushings) and attribute the sound to it. Speaking of swaybars, put the rear bar on stiffest setting and the front on softest(if possible). Downeyer is correct about having rear damping set stiffer than front. Same is true for swaybars. The stiffer the rear, the more oversteer.
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Old 05-13-2003, 01:26 AM   #37
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My poping noise has ceased to exist. I did not make any changes to the damping or tighten anything up. Just went away for whatever reason.

Neverendingmods, how did your AutoX go?
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Old 05-13-2003, 02:53 AM   #38
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Downeyer- not so good. After 1st run(which I missed a gate) I was told I had a little oil smoke at launch. Got worse by 2nd run and I headed home. The car felt amazing but never got to push it. After having it looked at next day(plugs pulled, no oil fouling or builup, compression good and the recommendation of a catch can later, I turned down the damping from 4/5 f/r.) Man that was a long ride on turnpike. At the autox, there was this one turn that the car actually hopped going around. Absolutely no roll except near limit. It's ashame I got all freaked out about the oil smoke 'cause I never got to really play w/ tire pressures. 1 full run and I held back so not to miss a gate.( I stink at learning course) I got a few comments, however, at how flat car stayed especially in the 6 cone slalom. This was the fastest part of course and it felt great(oversteer!!) I'm starting to regret having leather seats. I slide all around, butt hanging half off the seat after 2nd run.
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Old 11-19-2003, 12:54 AM   #39
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My Zero-2R setup is still running great after about 10K miles or so. I have developed a slight creak or 2, but that may be my Cusco rear sway bar talkin to me. My only real issue is my left rear dust boot got a tear in it, but otherwise- good to go!!! I have my setup on a wagon and they are so damn awesome. Glad to hear everyone is enjoying these bad boys as much as I am!
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Old 01-01-2004, 04:43 AM   #40
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I've had mine zero-2 for 65K miles yes 65K I have 75K on the car total and I have loved every one of them.

Just took them off last week to make sure there is no damage and ther is none. Besides slightly dirty they look good as new. And I've even taken them off road
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Old 01-11-2004, 09:56 PM   #41
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Off road . I avoid potholes like a crazed drunk person.

I have 2 ripped dust boots. Then found out awhile ago Cusco changed their spring perches and springs to put them further away from the boots. They will work though on the earlier setups. Only difference. Still perform well. Little over 20kmi so far. Also, Cusco does not do rebuilds. $300 per corner for replacement struts . I looked into it already just in case. So heads up.
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Old 01-16-2007, 02:35 AM   #42
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*sigh* sorry mods, I gotta add to this before I do my review.
Just (and I mean HOURS ago) installed Cusco 02-e's, would love to hear further updates on this thread. Jeebus, the initial drop is drastic (imo) my wife will kill me!! I agree that teh initial dampening does not seem to be a problem but I just gotta do something about the height... More later + review.
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Old 09-24-2011, 11:21 PM   #43
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does anyone know if the rear camber plates for the cusco zero 2R can be removed and used in other set ups?
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Old 02-25-2013, 05:25 AM   #44
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bumping up old thread! sorry, but have question:
in 2 weeks I will ahve those zero 2R in my garage. right now I'm riding on vacanza. Vacanza has front 6k, rear 4k springs, zero 2R from factory has 7k/5k.
I think to change springs and to install Zero2r with 6K/5K. I think this can increase grip for front tires? or I'm missing some ideas?
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