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Old 01-07-2013, 09:47 PM   #376
amalgrover
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
So, I talked to Kenne Bell's late this afternoon and mentioned that I had a 500+ WHP Subaru and described my fueling system with the 12 gauge re-wired Walbro E85 465 pump and 1000cc injectors.

I asked Matt at Kenne Bell's if the Boost a Pump would benefit those of us running the bigger Walbro's, DW's etc...even if we have already re-wired the pumps through the FPC with 12 ga. wire. He told me the BAP are controlled via a 5 detente switch that basically gives you 0-50% increase in voltage in 5@ 10% increments. The voltages are: 0=12v, 1=13.2v, 2=14.5v, 3=16v, 4=17.6v, 5=19.3v.

He said the larger 40 amp BAP (limited by a 30 amp fuse) will still benefit these big pumps by providing a rock steady voltage supply at the pump even if they are set at the 0 or 1 setting. Matt said to look at the amperage draw of the pump at a given voltage and psi setting at your FPR. You need to look at the maximum amperage draw for the system, which should be well under the 30 amp fuse. The Walbro 465 at 13.5v and 60 psi draws 15.64 amps.

Based on this info from KB it seems that the 40 amp BAP ($249 retail) would be a good match with the Walbro 465. Given a 50-60psi system fuel pressure we could most likely use the 1-3 setting of the BAP and be well within the limits of the wiring, fuses and using the stock Subabru FPC. The BAP kits come with enough wire to mount them in the engine compartment or the trunk or anywhere in between.

I hope this helps!

This is EXACTLY what I have been saying the whole time . With my DW300, I keep it set at 17.5V. I have had great success with this setup, it was EXTREMELY simple to install, kept my fuel system and wiring EXTREMELY simple, and has dropped my IDC's from WELL OVER 100% logged IDC at 26psi of boost tapering to 24psi to 89% logged IDC at 30psi of boost tapering to 28psi (this is on FIC Bluemax 1250cc injectors all flow tested at approx 1270-1280cc). So it definitely works...
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Old 01-07-2013, 10:47 PM   #377
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It's not that I doubted you but their own site had conflicting warning info on the big pumps.

Where did you mount yours? In my XTI I think I could mount it right above my pump since its only 3"x5"x2". I already have the main wiring done. What did you do for the pressure/ vacuum switch and the controller mounting? Do you have pics you could post? I figure I could run it at 16 or 17.5v with E85 and really help the idk's then dial it back to 0 for pumpgas!
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Old 01-07-2013, 11:50 PM   #378
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It's not that I doubted you but their own site had conflicting warning info on the big pumps.

Where did you mount yours? In my XTI I think I could mount it right above my pump since its only 3"x5"x2". I already have the main wiring done. What did you do for the pressure/ vacuum switch and the controller mounting? Do you have pics you could post? I figure I could run it at 16 or 17.5v with E85 and really help the idk's then dial it back to 0 for pumpgas!
I have the module itself mounted in the spare tire area (so like 2ft from the pump in the wagon), and I mounted my hobbs switch up right next to my bcs under the factory bcs cover. Then I mounted my control knob in my glove box (wanted to do the ashtray, but it wouldn't fit properly). I run mine at 17.5V (max) on E85 and then turn it to zero when I have to run 93oct (very rarely). I honestly thought I was going to see some tuning issues with the BAP kicking in at just 5psi (was thinking about running a 15psi switch instead), but the 5psi switch has caused ZERO issues with AFR or tuning.
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Old 01-08-2013, 01:54 AM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
This is EXACTLY what I have been saying the whole time . With my DW300, I keep it set at 17.5V. I have had great success with this setup, it was EXTREMELY simple to install, kept my fuel system and wiring EXTREMELY simple, and has dropped my IDC's from WELL OVER 100% logged IDC at 26psi of boost tapering to 24psi to 89% logged IDC at 30psi of boost tapering to 28psi (this is on FIC Bluemax 1250cc injectors all flow tested at approx 1270-1280cc). So it definitely works...
Do you have a write up of the install of the BAP? I think I want one.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:44 AM   #380
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I do not, but it is SUPER easy.


-find the + wire coming between the fuel pump to the controller (or relay if you have it re-wired directly) and the fuel pump
-cut it
-splice the + input wire of the BAP to the + wire going to the controller (or relay if re-wired)
-take the + output wire coming out of the BAP and splice that to the + wire going into the fuel pump
-take the - wire of the BAP and ground that to a solid vehicle ground
-take hobbs switch wires and run those to your hobbs switch
-T the hobbs switch pressure line into your boost line between the compressor and the bcs
-run the control knob wire to the control knob


...that is literally it. I know it may sound confusing when trying to read everything, but it is really easy once you actually see it in place. Here is a link to a mustang forum where the guy took pics of the install. Not exactly the same, but it helps you visualize what all I just typed up.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/2005-...ll-w-pics.html
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Old 01-09-2013, 04:16 AM   #381
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FWIW, I had good luck with the MSD Programmable Fuel Pump controller. It's the same exact principle as a BAP (battery voltage as "base", amplied upwards based on user criteria) but uses an integrated MAP reference with programmable control based on such. With a fuel pressure gauge you could appropriately tune the BAP to maintain appropriate flow without excessively overvolting the pump if unneccesary. I tuned mine the old-fashioned way...turned it up until I stopped getting pressure dropoff (actual fuel pressure falling below manifold reference +/- base fuel pressure).

I was using one on an in-tank DW300 before building my surgetank setup (which is 3x A340's).
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:40 AM   #382
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the MSD setup is nice and all, but it is VERY expensive...plus, I don't see too much of a need for 99% of the people to have to program different voltages at different times...But it is a really cool setup.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:58 AM   #383
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I don't think I'm going to change anything on my fueling system right now. I was thinking that maybe I would install the BAP but its just another component that could fail and my XTI is making very good power right now.

I sent Junior 5 logs last night and we'll see what he comes back with on tweaking my tune. On one pull Monday I saw 28 psi by 3640 rpm in 4th gear! On another log yesterday in 3rd gear it showed 11 psi of boost at 3500 and then 23 psi at 4000 and it's holding 26-27 psi out to almost 7000 in 3rd gear at almost 110 mph, which has been as far as I can take it because I'm running out of room I can't rev it out in 4th right now because I can't find enough room to get anywhere near my 8k/ 140 redline

I think my Walbro 465 with the 12 gauge wire through the FPC is providing plenty of fuel at 50 psi for my IDk 's!

Last edited by manitou; 01-09-2013 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:31 PM   #384
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Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I don't think I'm going to change anything on my fueling system right now. I was thinking that maybe I would install the BAP but its just another component that could fail and my XTI is making very good power right now.

I sent Junior 5 logs last night and we'll see what he comes back with on tweaking my tune. On one pull Monday I saw 28 psi by 3640 rpm in 4th gear! On another log yesterday in 3rd gear it showed 11 psi of boost at 3500 and then 23 psi at 4000 and it's holding 26-27 psi out to almost 7000 in 3rd gear at almost 110 mph, which has been as far as I can take it because I'm running out of room I can't rev it out in 4th right now because I can't find enough room to get anywhere near my 8k/ 140 redline

I think my Walbro 465 with the 12 gauge wire through the FPC is providing plenty of fuel at 50 psi for my IDk 's!

If you have ID1000's, then definitely yes...

Figure actual 1000cc injectors require 240lph at 100% IDC. Your walbro with a re-wire is providing about 295lph at 78psi (50psi base plus 28psi boost)...even without a re-wire the walbro 400 flows 240lph so...you definitely are good on 1000's. Now if you were running ID2000's, that would be totally different. 2000cc injectors require 480lph at 100% IDC. So, this means that running ID2000's, anything over about 60% IDC would mean that you are holding the injectors open longer to compensate for the pump not being able to keep up.
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:42 PM   #385
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Great new product from Lucas Performance Concepts. A must for every 08+ STi. The kit converts it to a pre-08 FPR setup and gets rid of the infamous studder on the 08+ STis

http://lucasperformanceconcepts.ecwi...93&id=18902695







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Old 02-24-2013, 08:08 PM   #386
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Same thing as IAPerformance. Also have you seen the additional fuel line fix? Cheaper and easier.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:08 PM   #387
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no. gotta a link? actually i did read that one before...something about adding 6-12" of fuel line....

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...ml#post3783536

Last edited by Phatron; 02-24-2013 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:37 PM   #388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phatron View Post
no. gotta a link? actually i did read that one before...something about adding 6-12" of fuel line....

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...ml#post3783536

Still needs some adjustments in the LC tables to get the most out of the mod.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:41 PM   #389
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Its not really fixing the issue though...just a bandaid that happens to lessen the stutter. the kit above fixes the actual issue.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:44 PM   #390
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Its not really fixing the issue though...just a bandaid that happens to lessen the stutter. the kit above fixes the actual issue.
I was talking in addition to the fuel line mod ( http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...ml#post3783536) that you had a link for. Or at least thats what I did with Eric Minehart adjusting my tables after the mod.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:03 PM   #391
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Just add a 3 foot piece of line on the feed between the rail and dampener. Works the same or better than the kit. Apparently it's just a resonance issue so extending the line fixes it. Still should fix the load compensation tables after just like the kit.
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:56 PM   #392
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Its not really fixing the issue though...just a bandaid that happens to lessen the stutter. the kit above fixes the actual issue.
You sure about that?

On the STI boards the general consensus is that the playing around with all sorts of different dampers is a hit-and-miss affair, but the 3 feet of extra fuel line is the sure-fire method to solve the issue.

I like the idea of not having the extra fuel-line coiled up there, and don't mind paying extra for a neater engine bay. But I am nervous that it won't work as well as the extra 36-39 inches of fuel hose.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:01 PM   #393
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I did the swap of FPR and it worked for me. I would test taking out the balancer line first. So it should only require two plugs.
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:08 PM   #394
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You sure about that?

On the STI boards the general consensus is that the playing around with all sorts of different dampers is a hit-and-miss affair, but the 3 feet of extra fuel line is the sure-fire method to solve the issue.

I like the idea of not having the extra fuel-line coiled up there, and don't mind paying extra for a neater engine bay. But I am nervous that it won't work as well as the extra 36-39 inches of fuel hose.
Yes I believe so. Ive never tuned a car that has done that mod, but reading the thread people are still using the lc table and If you still need 30% values in the load comp table....then the underlying issue is still there. Jockeys table is 0'd
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:54 PM   #395
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My buddy (08sti)tried the longer fuel line coil and it didn't work well. Did this type of mod with a different kit.
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:13 AM   #396
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Removing all the fuel dampers seem to have caused fuel line "knocking" for this guy.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...-findings.html
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Old 02-25-2013, 11:48 AM   #397
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Is there any tuning required for the Lucas Performance kit?
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Old 02-25-2013, 01:19 PM   #398
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You should never change anything on your car and not recheck the tune.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:42 PM   #399
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Removing all the fuel dampers seem to have caused fuel line "knocking" for this guy.
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...-findings.html
Talking to the guys at Marren Fuel Injection I was informed that the factory fuel "dampers" where more for sound control that actual dampening anyway. More to dampen the sound than dampen the pressure oscillations.
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Old 02-25-2013, 04:04 PM   #400
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Talking to the guys at Marren Fuel Injection I was informed that the factory fuel "dampers" where more for sound control that actual dampening anyway. More to dampen the sound than dampen the pressure oscillations.
Sound is a result of pressure changes.
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