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Old 11-17-2012, 11:53 PM   #251
scby rex
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remove the uppipe and turbo^ lol
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Old 11-18-2012, 06:41 AM   #252
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Use a 14mm crows foot^^ worked wonders!!

I had put in power steering fluid not even looking at the cap. It takes Dextron ATF. I bought some and disconnected the pressure line underneath and the reservoir line down low. Drained, reconnected the lines and refilled. As I was bleeding I noticed some drips on the ground. After wiping and rebleeding, I find a leak coming from a line I never touch



It was leaking from between the line and fitting. I pulled the line off after dropping the crossmember. One of the flares is smashed ??? I thought it was tight, maybe too tight and noticed this when I backed out of the bay.


The line


Good double flare


Smashed flare, see how flat the side edge is instead of having a mm or so side?


I talked to my dude at a Subaru dealership that has a few donor cars and he's going to pull one off another Sti for me. I'm picking it up Tuesday.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:34 PM   #253
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For anyone planning on swapping both lines going to the rack.... .

I found that removing the brace that covers the rack allows you to move the lines a bit more to make them easier to access. Especially the return line that has the rubber hose in it.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:37 PM   #254
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Also. There is a a sort of "restrictor" pill in the line. I cut my open just out of curiosity. I have pics for reference if anyone is interested.
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Old 11-29-2012, 09:40 PM   #255
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theres pics of it in the first few pages. It doesnt do anything and your fine without one.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:02 PM   #256
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ordered these items per The owner of anplumbing's recommendations for the power steering application.



Part # Qty Price Item Total Brand Specs
9894DBH 1 $6.49 $6.49 Earls Female End: 14mm x 1.5
AN Thread: -6
600006 6 $5.59 $33.54 Earls Any Length: any
Hose Size: -6
604706 1 $19.49 $19.49 Earls AN Thread: -6
Hose Size: -6
609006 1 $31.25 $31.25 Earls AN Thread: -6
Hose Size: -6
871406 1 $8.73 $8.73 XRP AN Thread: -6
Metric Thread: 14mm X 1.50


He also stated that the 9894DBH adapter that we are all using is not correct for the application and that it needs to have a 70-45* bevel cut inside in order to accept the flare fitting on the rack side.

as it stands you are essentially crushing the flare and hoping it holds the pressure.
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Old 03-01-2013, 07:58 PM   #257
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So there isn't a correct fitting to replace the 9894DBH ??

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnorth85 View Post
He also stated that the 9894DBH adapter that we are all using is not correct for the application and that it needs to have a 70-45* bevel cut inside in order to accept the flare fitting on the rack side.

as it stands you are essentially crushing the flare and hoping it holds the pressure.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:19 PM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serkan View Post
So there isn't a correct fitting to replace the 9894DBH ??
No,
He informed me that we should cut off the OEM fitting and braze/weld on a AN based fitting. They offer the weld-on fittings.

The other alternative is to machine in a bevel to the 9894DBH this would help mate up to the OEM line.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:42 PM   #259
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There are companies that make them. They are not cheap. See this:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=30271


The problem with what you're saying jnorth85 is that perhaps your setup is different or maybe I misunderstand, but my rack doesn't have a flare fitting. Instead it relies on a oring to seal on a flat surface inside of the fitting. I can verify this by looking on the inside the factory lines which don't have a flare fitting on them.

Here is a picture of the high pressure side on the factory line (sorry for the bad picture, cellphones are poor for shots like these):


Here is a picture of the low pressure side on the factory line:


Essentially they are both the same but with different diameters. No flare there. Now look at the rack side fittings:






See the oring seal? No AN flare fittings on this one. At least on the 06 WRX rack I have.

The only modification I would do on these fittings from EARLS is to cut a slight chamfer on the inner diameter of the fitting to resemble the stock fitting and be a bit easier on the oring. That's my plan. But the lines are certainly not a reverse female flare fitting.

Last edited by kpluiten; 03-01-2013 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:54 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post

There are companies that make them. They are not cheap. See this:
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_vi...dProduct=30271
Yes that.
You can easily modify the earls fitting
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:02 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnorth85 View Post
Yes that.
You can easily modify the earls fitting
See above. There is not need to modify it like you are describing.


EDIT: OK, I think I was just confused on what you said at first. We are saying the same thing, but with different terminology. I hear flare and start thinking you're talking about a 45 or 37 degree internal female flare like the fitting I posted above. :facepalm: You are correct.

You are correct, the chamfer is NOT hard to add to the inside to mimic the factory lines and I had already planned on doing that.

Apparently you are cool without it though as everyone here has been doing it for years! Maybe they just have slow leaks or always air in the system.

Last edited by kpluiten; 03-01-2013 at 09:14 PM.
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Old 03-01-2013, 10:48 PM   #262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post

See above. There is not need to modify it like you are describing.

EDIT: OK, I think I was just confused on what you said at first. We are saying the same thing, but with different terminology. I hear flare and start thinking you're talking about a 45 or 37 degree internal female flare like the fitting I posted above. :facepalm: You are correct.

You are correct, the chamfer is NOT hard to add to the inside to mimic the factory lines and I had already planned on doing that.

Apparently you are cool without it though as everyone here has been doing it for years! Maybe they just have slow leaks or always air in the system.
Yup exactly! That's also what I plan on doing. From what Tom at earls told me it will hold but at a much lower pressure. He said if you were to smack a curb or introduce a shock load it would blow the fitting out, in addition once its cranked on you can't really remove it again.
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Old 03-15-2013, 01:20 AM   #263
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What about re flaring the power steering lines with this tool. It says in the description that this make 37 degree flaring for AN fittings.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311/overview/
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Old 03-15-2013, 11:18 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serkan View Post
What about re flaring the power steering lines with this tool. It says in the description that this make 37 degree flaring for AN fittings.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311/overview/
you could the motor in the car there isnt much room with the rack installed, also the lines coming out of the rack arent very long to begin with.
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:42 AM   #265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serkan View Post
What about re flaring the power steering lines with this tool. It says in the description that this make 37 degree flaring for AN fittings.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900311/overview/
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnorth85 View Post
you could the motor in the car there isnt much room with the rack installed, also the lines coming out of the rack arent very long to begin with.
I have this tool and had a tough time flaring good grade aluminum lines. I can't imagine how this could possibly work on a oem hard line.

The problem is the little holder bracket can't hold the line unless you put an ungodly amount of torque on the nuts. Otherwise the flare part of the tool just pushes the line through the holder. I had to a big ass adjustable wrench on the nuts to stop it from slipping
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Old 05-04-2013, 06:52 AM   #266
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Can any of these lines (FMS, P&L, Chasebay) be routed like like the stock line but with a little more slack. So it lays on the frame and goes by the PS bottle?

(I looked for install pics but couldn't find anything)
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Old 05-05-2013, 12:36 AM   #267
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I made my own like that.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:47 AM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx_driver_2002 View Post
The stock pressure line has a restrictor built into it... Did you get that put back in? If you didn't, your fluid will foam up in the pump and in the resevoir and your power steering will work like ass... Trust me, I know

Anyone else have this problem? I ask because I am having this happen with my setup.

What would be a fix for the foaming and lack of power steering when using these parts?
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:32 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post


Here is a picture of the low pressure side on the factory line:


Essentially they are both the same but with different diameters. No flare there. Now look at the rack side fittings:






See the oring seal? No AN flare fittings on this one. At least on the 06 WRX rack I have.

The only modification I would do on these fittings from EARLS is to cut a slight chamfer on the inner diameter of the fitting to resemble the stock fitting and be a bit easier on the oring. That's my plan. But the lines are certainly not a reverse female flare fitting.
I am pretty sure those are MIO and FOR fittings.

Male Insert O-ring = MIO
Female O Ring = FOR

http://refsales.shopnow247.com/index...iewCat&catId=8

They are definately NOT 37 or 45 deg flare fittings. Those are used in the refrigeration industry quite a bit. I just don't know if they are the standard 6,8,10 AN sizing or if FHI uses a metric equivalent.


They may also be referred to as BEADLOCK fittings"
http://www.acparts.com/Aluminum-Bead...1-c-92636.html

Bill

Last edited by wgknestrick; 06-20-2013 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:47 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by christhjesus View Post
Anyone else have this problem? I ask because I am having this happen with my setup.

What would be a fix for the foaming and lack of power steering when using these parts?

Nevermind, had a torn o-ring on the reservoir to pump line and it was sucking air. YAY!
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Old 04-05-2014, 10:56 PM   #271
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See this thread ....post #6 for fitting size and thread patterns to make a High Pressure Line with banjo from PS Pump to rack

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1#post41741247
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:10 PM   #272
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So any thoughts on using a thicker than OEM O-ring?

OEM is 1.5mm tick. Matching O-Ring from HF O-ring set is 1.9mm thick. Will this cause issues?

Also, how tight should the metric adapter be? Hand tight + a little love?

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Old 04-28-2014, 04:45 PM   #273
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I have a leak from that spot and thought replacement o rings would fix it. I bought a #10 and #11 from the hardware store to replace the factory ones. They may be slightly thicker or it was just how they looked since they had not been compressed.

I tried some slightly thicker o rings and 1 pinched in half. I can't remember what I did with the others. One may have fit or not. Point is they are pretty picky on the size. they need to fit into the flat face on the line side easily (as opposed to the rack side). I'd definitely test fit it.

Edit: The other two were a #78 and #83, one pinched through and the other mushroomed out.

You can look up a size chart for those o ring numbers, I don't know them off the top of my head.
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Old 04-28-2014, 04:55 PM   #274
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The O-rings are really going to depend on the fitment inside the adapter fitting....see the blue fitting in the pics previous. If it pops inside and doesn't wrinkle or fold over, you should be ok. Use a good dab of vaseline on them before threading it altogether.

Torque, thats all up to you. Id say pretty tight as its going to see over 1000psi on the pressure side. The only way to test is thread it all up and then put the car on the ground and with the motor running turn the wheels from bump stop to bump stop. You will have to do this to bleed out any air in the lines anyway. If you have no drops your good to go, if you do, then tighter still. If you feel its tight enough and are unsure about further tightening due to a leak, pull it apart and check the O-rings first.
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Old 04-28-2014, 05:13 PM   #275
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Thanks for the info. I did a test fitment but didn't torque the blue adapter down too hard. The HF Oring was fine. So at first it seemed like a good idea, but then I remembered its HF and will be ordering Orings from MCMaster tonight. It's like $10 for 2x100 packs. I'll pay that rather then try to get them replaced with the engine in.

I would guess that they are torqued about 10-15 lbs. That's what they felt like coming off at least.

It also looks like the oring gets coned and fills the beveled edge on the adapter. So not too sure what having more material in there would do ...


Last edited by Bad Noodle; 04-28-2014 at 08:21 PM.
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