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Old 01-16-2013, 08:18 PM   #1
bmw325ix
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Default Hole saw brands?

Simple question, The hard ware store brand hole saws I have and driving me nuts. Say I use a 2.5" saw to punch a hole, that hole ends up leaving about an 1/8th inch gap all the way around a 2.5" pipe.

This example came about when I made intercooler end tanks. So does anyone know a brand that is a more exact size. Maybe a brand that measure by the OD.
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:22 PM   #2
bugeyesubie
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could you use a 2 1/4" hole saw then? maybe just sand out the rest for a perfect fit? could maybe find a 2 5/16" possibly
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:34 PM   #3
bmw325ix
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Yeah that's an option I've though about but don't want to buy one and hope for best. They get exspensive.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:34 AM   #4
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are you using a hand drill when cutting or are you using a drill press? Drill presses tend to hold the saw a little better and cause it to walk less because it is less reliant on the centre drill to keep it aligned.

If you are using a drill press or mill, you can move up to using something like a trepanning cutter(annular cutter) or a fly cutter. But if you're worried about the price of a hole saw though these are probably not for you...

Probably the easiest is what bugeyesubie said... under-size, then trim to fit.

EDIT: Also the locking mechanisms for holding the hole saw in the arbour with the two little pins tend to be quite loose. You can try and bottom out the hole saw (making it really tight on the threads) to keep it from moving around. Put a washer on first though so you still have a chance to get the hole saw off the arbour when you're done.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:29 AM   #5
bmw325ix
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I try to use the drill press as much as possible. There certainly is a difference when I use the hand drill. Annular cutter looks interesting, I dont mind spending money on tools generally but Ive just had bad luck with hole saws so continuing on that road seems a waste.

If new tool will make a better cut its worth the cost to me. I think Im going to take a caliper over to the hardware store and see if I can measure a some different brands.

Last edited by bmw325ix; 01-17-2013 at 10:35 AM.
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:19 PM   #6
Surb00
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All brands measure by the o.d. I think your problem is likely more from the saw walking and the pilot bit not being squared with the saw. The hole saw itself is going to be very close to the indicated diameter. A quality mandrel is very important and Lennox brand bi-metal saws work perfect for me. Another option is a Rotabroach, they're good for tougher and or thicker material.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:58 PM   #7
bmw325ix
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^^^ Im beginning to agree the more things I take the time to measure. I know I have had some less then quality arbors in the past but I usually bin them as soon as I notice.
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:21 PM   #8
Mr. Wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zefy View Post

If you are using a drill press or mill, you can move up to using something like a trepanning cutter(annular cutter) or a fly cutter. But if you're worried about the price of a hole saw though these are probably not for you...

EDIT: Also the locking mechanisms for holding the hole saw in the arbour with the two little pins tend to be quite loose. You can try and bottom out the hole saw (making it really tight on the threads) to keep it from moving around. Put a washer on first though so you still have a chance to get the hole saw off the arbour when you're done.

Annular cutters are best if you can afford it. At work well put them through 100+ inches of material before they need to be resharpened.

A washer pack out works well and if you're in a pinch layers of masking tape will work all the same.

As with any cutting operation, its all about proper speed and lubrication.
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Old 02-15-2013, 09:50 PM   #9
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Some hole saws use offset teeth to create space for the cutter as it penetrates.these offset teeth are splayed out, one inside one outside to open up the kerf in cuts through wood mostly. If you take the 2.5 holesaw to the grinder and knock off the splayed out teeth, it will be closer to the dimension you are looking for.
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:04 PM   #10
Dirtracr95
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It is mainly due to the walk in the arbor and possibly your drill. My snap-on 1/2" pneumatic drill's shaft is bent because well its fallen off the trucks ive built/worked on too many times. If there is any wobble or walking when cutting you might not be holding your drill too tight assuming its a hand drill. If you loosen your grip and let the drill do the wobbling instead of the holesaw your hole should turn out better.
+1 on the splayed tooth comment. The Banco holesaws I use at work have splayed teeth and will generally overcut. Ive used from 3/4" to 6" holesaws and this holds true for all of them from what ive seen.

If your looking for a perfect fit I would say either use the next size smaller and enlarge or plasma the hole using that tool for making circles and file the edges.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:41 AM   #11
bmw325ix
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikemcl View Post
Some hole saws use offset teeth to create space for the cutter as it penetrates.these offset teeth are splayed out, one inside one outside to open up the kerf in cuts through wood mostly. If you take the 2.5 holesaw to the grinder and knock off the splayed out teeth, it will be closer to the dimension you are looking for.
Gave this a shot last night, works like a dream. thanks for the tip
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