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Old 03-05-2013, 08:35 PM   #5801
stlnation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unkachabull View Post

Maybe your just sliding it into the connector housing in the wrong position? Also check the terminals to make sure that the little locks didn't break off or bend backwards.
Im thinking the locks broke off or the catch inside the connector is broken.

These connectors look different than the iap connectors. They were easy peasy.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:15 PM   #5802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post

Im thinking the locks broke off or the catch inside the connector is broken.

These connectors look different than the iap connectors. They were easy peasy.
Are you sure you're messing with the correct connector? The main harness connectors are on the drivers side inside the engine bay behind the battery. There are two connectors. One brown. One black. You'll be putting them into the brown one and running them into the car and connecting the other end onto the ECU connectors.

You'll need to remove the locking piece before you can put the connector in.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:26 PM   #5803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post

Are you sure you're messing with the correct connector? The main harness connectors are on the drivers side inside the engine bay behind the battery. There are two connectors. One brown. One black. You'll be putting them into the brown one and running them into the car and connecting the other end onto the ECU connectors.

You'll need to remove the locking piece before you can put the connector in.
What are you talking about?

I installed the iap harness with out any hickups.

The wires that are falling out are on the engine harness side of the brown connector. I never messed with it. ..
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:41 PM   #5804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post

What are you talking about?

I installed the iap harness with out any hickups.

The wires that are falling out are on the engine harness side of the brown connector. I never messed with it. ..
I assumed you were talking about the AVCS harness and wires associated with that brown connector but on the chassis side. Didn't know it was the engine side.

So the wires just come out and you didn't mess with it? That seems highly unlikely unless the copper wires itself are coming out of the connector pin and the weather rubber shielding is attached to the wire so it appears that the entire connector is coming out? I had that happen to me not on my brown connector but on headlight leveling switch harness. I kept trying to push it in but it wouldn't stay. Eventually took the wire out and no pin connector was attached. Had to remove the lock for the connector and then remove the connector pin and solder it as best I can after prying the old wire out.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:03 PM   #5805
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post

I assumed you were talking about the AVCS harness and wires associated with that brown connector but on the chassis side. Didn't know it was the engine side.

So the wires just come out and you didn't mess with it? That seems highly unlikely unless the copper wires itself are coming out of the connector pin and the weather rubber shielding is attached to the wire so it appears that the entire connector is coming out? I had that happen to me not on my brown connector but on headlight leveling switch harness. I kept trying to push it in but it wouldn't stay. Eventually took the wire out and no pin connector was attached. Had to remove the lock for the connector and then remove the connector pin and solder it as best I can after prying the old wire out.

Hey I just ran out and took a quick video.
But yes its the wires on the engine side. I never had to do anything to that connector. I just happened to notice last night.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:15 PM   #5806
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post

Hey I just ran out and took a quick video.
But yes its the wires on the engine side. I never had to do anything to that connector. I just happened to notice last night.
Heres that video

I'm using the Android app so not certain how to make the link clickable.

Sorry

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-wA...e_gdata_player

Looks like nasioc had my back with link support.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:19 PM   #5807
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post

Are you sure you're messing with the correct connector? The main harness connectors are on the drivers side inside the engine bay behind the battery. There are two connectors. One brown. One black. You'll be putting them into the brown one and running them into the car and connecting the other end onto the ECU connectors.

You'll need to remove the locking piece before you can put the connector in.

By the way I noticed you said I should of installed the ia performance avcs harness into the brown connector behind the battery.. The instructions clearly said to install into the black connector. Are you sure it's the brown?
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:33 PM   #5808
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post

By the way I noticed you said I should of installed the ia performance avcs harness into the brown connector behind the battery.. The instructions clearly said to install into the black connector. Are you sure it's the brown?
I could be wrong on the color. Sorry. It's been a while. LOL.

I have pictures of mine F61 and E1 connectors. Mine looks black and grey for my version 7. It was done years ago.

Yeah the video shows exactly what I mentioned where the weather rubber piece is coming out of the connector but the lock piece is still in. I believe the wire itself pulled out of the pin end. Hopefully it is JUST the rubber that broke off instead of the wire. BUT if not you'll need to remove the lock on the brown engine side and remove the pin as stated in the IAP instructions. You'll probably need to pry open the wire holding side of the pin so you can solder the wire back into pin. You'll want to take care of this NOW or ASAP since those wires correspond to something related on the engine through the chassis side wiring.

Last edited by iNfEk; 05-28-2013 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 10:49 PM   #5809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNfEk View Post

I could be wrong on the color. Sorry. It's been a while. LOL.

I have pictures of mine F61 and E1 connectors. Mine looks black and grey for my version 7. It was done years ago.

Yeah the video shows exactly what I mentioned where the weather rubber piece is coming out of the connector but the lock piece is still in. I believe the wire itself pulled out of the pin end. Hopefully it is JUST the rubber that broke off instead of the wire. BUT if not you'll need to remove the lock on the brown engine side and remove the pin as stated in the IAP instructions. You'll probably need to pry open the wire holding side of the pin so you can solder the wire back into pin. You'll want to take care of this NOW or ASAP since those wires correspond to something related on the engine through the chassis side wiring.
The pin is still attached to the wire. With the lock in the brown connector I cant pull the wire out with pin attached. When I shove in back in, it slides real easy right in to where the rubber piece sits flush inside the housing. So I pulled the lock out and did the same thing. Its like whatever lock on the pin that holds it in place is broken. I assume its broken because I dont see anything in the pin other than the guides.

Im just going to make another video. Lol
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Old 03-05-2013, 11:01 PM   #5810
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post

The pin is still attached to the wire. With the lock in the brown connector I cant pull the wire out with pin attached. When I shove in back in, it slides real easy right in to where the rubber piece sits flush inside the housing. So I pulled the lock out and did the same thing. Its like whatever lock on the pin that holds it in place is broken. I assume its broken because I dont see anything in the pin other than the guides.

Im just going to make another video. Lol
LOL. Sorry I didn't read all the details. I've been working on my car all day so... LOL.

Idk if you can fix it by bending the area that catches the connector a little further up unless that part is completely gone inside the connector. If it is. Your only recourse might be a small dab of super glue.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:21 PM   #5811
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I had the same issue on the same brown connector on the same green pin, mine wasnt secure 100% but it was in there enough that it didn't cause me any trouble. I had it on my v9 swap too. Weird.
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:48 PM   #5812
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Its alive

I might be in love.

I fixed the connector with some 1min epoxy. It wasn't my first option but the inside of the connector that held the pin in was broken.

The 2 issues I'm having is my speedo isnt working [we broke a sensor on the tranny]

My biggest problem is I'm getting a p0519 code for idle air control performance.

Has anyone had this problem?
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:57 PM   #5813
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Yes, The IACV probably just needs to be cleaned.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:32 PM   #5814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post
Its alive

I might be in love.

I fixed the connector with some 1min epoxy. It wasn't my first option but the inside of the connector that held the pin in was broken.

The 2 issues I'm having is my speedo isnt working [we broke a sensor on the tranny]

My biggest problem is I'm getting a p0519 code for idle air control performance.

Has anyone had this problem?
Cleaned. Maybe. But if the gasket jumped and its not completely sealed (experienced this on my EJ205) because the gasket stretched somehow. I replaced the gasket after cleaning and operation was normal after. If its actually the IACV you'll notice very high idle upon startup and usually after a few seconds the idle drops to about 700 RPM (without AC on) if it doesn't then it'll trigger the CEL you got. After opening up my IACV the gasket wouldn't fit into the channel at all.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:39 PM   #5815
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if you take the iacv off then it basically automatically requires a new gasket.i managed once when i got it really cold and shrunk it down to size. then slapped it on before it warmed up. for 7 bucks just get a new one.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:25 AM   #5816
stlnation
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
if you take the iacv off then it basically automatically requires a new gasket.i managed once when i got it really cold and shrunk it down to size. then slapped it on before it warmed up. for 7 bucks just get a new one.
I got a new gasket yesterday and it solved my idling issues as well as the code. I'm getting another code for my speedo sensor I broke.

Going to work on that tomorrow. Man this engine really seems nice so far.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:10 AM   #5817
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I recently spun a bearing in my v6 207 and bought a v7 207 to replace it. I am hoping to swap in non avcs cams in order to reuse the majority of my v6 harness and to continue the use my Power FC.

Right now I am looking at ordering non-avcs BC cams and reusing my v6 cam gears. After some research it looks like I will need to obtain non AVCS cam seals and a new cam angle sensor bracket seen here http://www.importimageracing.com/cos...et-subaru.html

Am I missing anything or is this all I will need?

Thanks a ton in advance to anyone that can help!!!

Aaron

Last edited by dundunskeert; 03-07-2013 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:48 AM   #5818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dundunskeert View Post
I recently spun a bearing in my v6 207 and bought a v7 207 to replace it. I am hoping to swap in non avcs cams in order to reuse the majority of my v6 harness and to continue the use my Power FC.

Right now I am looking at ordering non-avcs BC cams and reusing my v6 cam gears. After some research it looks like I will need to obtain non AVCS cam seals and a new cam angle sensor bracket seen here http://www.importimageracing.com/cos...et-subaru.html

Am I missing anything or is this all I will need?

Thanks a ton in advance to anyone that can help!!!

Aaron
Your Power FC is supported up to v6, but maybe it covers everything you need minus the avcs you plan to eliminate.
IMO, for time and money spent, you are better off spending time merging harnesses so you can get the benefit of AVCS and OEM drivability via the matching ecu.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:40 AM   #5819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
Your Power FC is supported up to v6, but maybe it covers everything you need minus the avcs you plan to eliminate.
IMO, for time and money spent, you are better off spending time merging harnesses so you can get the benefit of AVCS and OEM drivability via the matching ecu.
I should probably add that I am running a tomei m7760 (20g) So I need to maintain tuneability.

Thanks though!
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:09 AM   #5820
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Ok so I got my motor in about a month ago and got it tuned by maxwell power services. I made 347hp at the crank and 302hp at the wheels. Not bad for a stock motor.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:08 PM   #5821
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What type of dyno? Any modifications or completely stock?
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:16 PM   #5822
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlnation View Post
Its alive

I might be in love.

I fixed the connector with some 1min epoxy. It wasn't my first option but the inside of the connector that held the pin in was broken.

The 2 issues I'm having is my speedo isnt working [we broke a sensor on the tranny]

My biggest problem is I'm getting a p0519 code for idle air control performance.

Has anyone had this problem?
I had some idle code or another when I first did mine. It was an AVCS wiring issue combined with Neutral position switch.

I swapped the ground and one of the sensor wires, this made it advance one side when it was trying to zero it.

Then since the neutral position sensor was set backwards from what it expected, it would idle with one side at max advance and the other side at zero, resulting in high idle and a very lopsided sound. If I put it in gear, the idle would settle down since the NPS would flip and that would disable AVCS.

Fixed the sensor wiring and I still got the idle code periodically, even though idling was okay. That code finally went away when I changed the NPS expectation in the ROM, and this got my AVCS working. I assumed it needed to be inverted to begin with so I had only been working with an inverted ROM. flipped that bit in the ROM back to the original, and it was fine.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:37 PM   #5823
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Hi I have a question before I make my purchase, and I want to know if I can use my USDM ecu out of my 03 wrx for a short time on the v7
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:03 PM   #5824
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Hi I have a question before I make my purchase, and I want to know if I can use my USDM ecu out of my 03 wrx for a short time on the v7
The tuning is different and there isn't any TGVs either. Fuel injectors will be different. Flow will be different. Boost settings will be different since it has a larger turbo. I'd make sure your engine came with the ECU. I'd advise against doing that.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:17 PM   #5825
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The tuning is different and there isn't any TGVs either. Fuel injectors will be different. Flow will be different. Boost settings will be different since it has a larger turbo. I'd make sure your engine came with the ECU. I'd advise against doing that.
oh yea im getting ecu, and ok i understand what u r saying too. so it will be better get and just get it tuned one after swap is done.
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