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Old 10-04-2012, 02:18 PM   #301
amcn831
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Are you talking about pulling the seats to adjust your strut damper? If you are, you know you can buy extenders so you can adjust them whenever.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:34 PM   #302
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Old 10-04-2012, 03:16 PM   #303
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Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
Yup I've gotta order some other things from those guys anyway. Those were on the list.

Im more concerned about getting the proper settings on the dpsecs for the springs.
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:10 PM   #304
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Prepare to have a lot of people ask you what those things are sticking out of your seats
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:41 PM   #305
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Originally Posted by haberkorn View Post
Yup I've gotta order some other things from those guys anyway. Those were on the list.

Im more concerned about getting the proper settings on the dpsecs for the springs.
When I had my Dspecs, the "best" adjustment really seemed to be a moving target, based upon what I was doing with the car (and my mood lol).

Although TIC says that 4 to 5 tffs was about the right dampening for their springs, I would turn them up much higher (~2 tffs) and was putting up better lap times in autox. The times may have been due to me driving better, but at the autox courses, 4 to 5 tffs felt too soft to me.

Then there were days that I was tired of bouncing around on city streets, and turned them down to 7 tffs...buttery smooth!

Granted I was on RCE Yellow's, which have pretty high spring rates (295 f and 275 r), right around 5tffs seemed to be a pretty good balance. I would guess that right around 5 tffs will be a pretty good balance for your springs, although you may choose to soften/firm up the dampening depending on where you're driving. That's the beauty of adjustable struts!
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Old 10-14-2012, 06:22 PM   #306
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Just got my D-specs installed today! Running 6/6 FFS for a few days to get a feel for them. Initial impressions are that they are very nice, no bounce and the car finally feels like it isn't falling apart again! I am running them with 06 USDM gray springs on my 06 2.5i sedan. I might be interested in running it at 5/5.5 FFS but we will see. While I was in there I took a look at what I could and I have some small leaking on my axles up by the tranny but besides that, no cracking, swelling, etc on anything else.
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Old 10-15-2012, 11:15 AM   #307
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Sticky Please
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Old 10-25-2012, 02:01 PM   #308
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2004 sti
5.5 from full stiff in the front and 6 from full stiff in rear
Prodrive Red springs with group n's in front and stock in rear
Cobb f/r sways, kartboy endlinks
stock 04 bbs's and 17x8 +45 RPF1's with 245/40/17 tires

This seems to be the most comfortable setting with the springs on the dspecs. The front/rear floats over small/medium bumps pretty easily. I've ran them from 4tffs to 6tffs and where I'm at now seems to be perfect for daily driving. I may tighten the front up just a little bit but it's really close to perfect. Car handles turns really well with minimal body roll and doesn't punch your kidneys going over large transitions in road surfaces.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:02 PM   #309
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Wow its good to see this thread is still alive and helping people out after all these years!
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Old 10-31-2012, 03:38 PM   #310
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I have to ask this one: has anyone felt that the rear settings seemed to 'self-adjust'?

I swear that when I checked the rear setting that one side was out almost a full-turn to soft.

Maybe my brain skipped a beat at that moment and I over-adjusted?

Humor me.

NO: I'm not trying to start something with this. Just curious.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:42 PM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big-E View Post
I have to ask this one: has anyone felt that the rear settings seemed to 'self-adjust'?

I swear that when I checked the rear setting that one side was out almost a full-turn to soft.

Maybe my brain skipped a beat at that moment and I over-adjusted?

Humor me.

NO: I'm not trying to start something with this. Just curious.
I think the adjustment on mine may have moved a little bit, especially if I left them without touching them for a long time. I doubt they ever moved a full turn though...you might have had a brain fart lol
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:52 PM   #312
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2005 9-2X Aero wagon
Epic engineering wrx springs
Epic 22mm rear sway, kartboy endlinks
stock 17x7 Enkei, 225/55
7 1/4 front 7 rear (turns from full stiff)

Anybody else using this combination? I'm finding it hard to hit the sweet spot with these springs. I know they are often compared to Prodrive blues but the settings people have metioned for blues seem overdamped. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated
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Old 12-08-2012, 02:44 PM   #313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chitownwrx View Post
Just got this installed on my 07 sedan and I love it

Tokico D-Specs, (5.5 TFFS f/r), extenders
Scooby921 Spacers
Swift Machs
Whiteline Com-C front/ Group N rear strut tops

I can't wait to see how it does on the autox and track!
BTW I now have a case of saggy butt. I haven't seen a lot of posts on here about the Machs causing this problem with sedans, as they should only lower about 1" front/ 0.8" rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
2004 WRX sedan 81k miles
5 front/ 5 1/2 rear (still on break in period)
02-03 Swift Sport springs 185f/151r
Group N tophats front and rear(02-03)
14mm camber bolts front and rear
Whiteline adjustable rear strut tower brace
Paranoid Fabrications front fender braces
Every Kartboy bushing known to man
05 STi control arms with poly bushings
Whiteline adjustable sways front and rear
Kartboy end links
17x7.5 JDM v7's with Bridgestone RE-01R 225/45/17
Alignment spec's: -2.0 f -2.0 r 0 toe

Car feels nice and stable turn in more crisp. Will probably loosen the struts up some more after a couple hundred more miles. No clunking yet. Just got alignment done today will observe and report back if any problem arise. I'm starting to think I should have gone with a spring with higher rates but wanted to retain daily drivablility. I commute 60 miles a day right now and road seem to be getting crappier here in Cali
quoted setups similar to mine for reference above.

2004 WRX sedan 120k
5 FFS front/5.5 FFS rear for DD
2004-07 WRX sedan Swift Sport springs 190 lbs/in front, 151 lbs/in rear (TIC says the rear is progressive)
-1” front, -0.8” rear
Front Group N top hats/rear stock top hats with Scooby921 spacers (note, spacers do not fit in Monroe top hats)
Whiteline steering rack bushings, Group N transmission mount, Torque Solutions motor pitch mount, 20mm OEM rear sway bar and rear Kartboy endlinks
17x8 Rota Torque with 225/45/17 Nitto Neo Gen tires

I wanted a low spring rate for comfort in daily driving while being sporty and lowering the car. This setup is perfect. A lot less (at least 2/3 reduced) lean over when turning and diving when breaking, despite only mild spring rates on the Swifts. Yet the ride on imperfect freeways and low speed jarring bumps is smoother than stock. I do feel a little bit that it has "saggy butt", but the front to rear difference in wheel gap has been slightly reduced. The Group N top hats added a touch more road noise, but no more than switching to sticky tires does.

I initially was too aggressive and set it 4 FFS front/4.5 FFS rear and it was unnecessarily stiff. at 5 front/5.5 rear it's not too stiff but there is also no bouncing at the same time. I haven't really noticed a "break in period." If anything they are getting softer. The springs were used and struts were brand new.

Last edited by bluestone; 12-09-2012 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:16 PM   #314
Dat8687
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Just got mine getting installed in a week or so.. Will post my settings with RS-R TI2000 springs soon.

On 17x7.5 Gramlights optimise with 235/45Goodyear Eagle GT tires

Suspension mods

Cusco Sub-Frame Brace
Cusco Lower rear Power brace
STI front control arms
GT Spec T-Brace
Cusco Front Sway bar endlinks
Cusco Front Sway bar 22mm
Whiteline 30mm HD Steering rack Bushings
GT Spec Diff mount
STI pink lateral link set
Sti Pink trailing arms
Group N trailing arm bushing front
Cusco Front Power brace
STI pink 21mm rear swaybar
Cusco Type II lower brace
RS-R TI2000 springs on Order
Tokico D-spec front struts not installed yet
Group N front strut mounts on order
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:57 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dat8687 View Post
Just got mine getting installed in a week or so.. Will post my settings with RS-R TI2000 springs soon.

On 17x7.5 Gramlights optimise with 235/45Goodyear Eagle GT tires

Suspension mods

Cusco Sub-Frame Brace
Cusco Lower rear Power brace
STI front control arms
GT Spec T-Brace
Cusco Front Sway bar endlinks
Cusco Front Sway bar 22mm
Whiteline 30mm HD Steering rack Bushings
GT Spec Diff mount
STI pink lateral link set
Sti Pink trailing arms
Group N trailing arm bushing front
Cusco Front Power brace
STI pink 21mm rear swaybar
Cusco Type II lower brace
RS-R TI2000 springs on Order
Tokico D-spec front struts not installed yet
Group N front strut mounts on order
Looks like you are pretty serious about your suspension setup... So I would also recommend whiteline com c top hats for the front, as they will give you more negative camber and more caster. They are pretty reasonable too.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:53 PM   #316
Dat8687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsomeday View Post
Looks like you are pretty serious about your suspension setup... So I would also recommend whiteline com c top hats for the front, as they will give you more negative camber and more caster. They are pretty reasonable too.

Thanks.. I probably will end up doing something like that.. If this setup isnt any good I will probably at minimum switch the springs to pinks or get coilovers and sell my setup.. Thats IF i dont like it.. And then get the Top hats you referred too
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:39 PM   #317
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Originally Posted by Dat8687 View Post
Thanks.. I probably will end up doing something like that.. If this setup isnt any good I will probably at minimum switch the springs to pinks or get coilovers and sell my setup.. Thats IF i dont like it.. And then get the Top hats you referred too
Oh I'm sure you'll like the setup I used to love my d-spec setup with rce yellows.

And I'm sure that you're aware that a good coilover setup that truly outperforms dspecs/springs is mucho $$
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:36 PM   #318
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Originally Posted by wrxsomeday View Post
Oh I'm sure you'll like the setup I used to love my d-spec setup with rce yellows.

And I'm sure that you're aware that a good coilover setup that truly outperforms dspecs/springs is mucho $$

Well Its HELLA STIFF.. I haven't setup the strut setting yet but theres 0 lean in turns and its bouncy while driving.. .. Im gonna fiddle with the settings Friday when I have time and post em.

Hey how do you know when your at 0?
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:23 AM   #319
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Originally Posted by Dat8687 View Post
Hey how do you know when your at 0?
Zero turns from full stiff? It won't turn anymore.
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Old 03-20-2013, 12:55 AM   #320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dat8687 View Post

Well Its HELLA STIFF.. I haven't setup the strut setting yet but theres 0 lean in turns and its bouncy while driving.. .. Im gonna fiddle with the settings Friday when I have time and post em.

Hey how do you know when your at 0?
You wouldn't happen to have it set at full stiff would you? Aka "screwed in as far as it goes"

If so, that's probably bad for the valving.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:34 AM   #321
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Originally Posted by chimchimm5 View Post
You wouldn't happen to have it set at full stiff would you? Aka "screwed in as far as it goes"

If so, that's probably bad for the valving.

I haven't touched em.. I left how they were set out of the box.. Should I set it too 0
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Old 04-15-2013, 06:13 AM   #322
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Ok well I finally got around to messing with the fronts.. The Right was set at full stiff STOCK.. the driver side was 1 turn from full stiff.. So I set the driver to full stiff then backed off 3 turns on both sides..

EDIT: I realized it was set way too stiff and was not adjusted properly as to break in.. I went back and turned it 2 more.. So now both sides are 5TFFS with RSR TI2000 springs.. Havent driven it yet will report back

RSR TI2000 Spring rate:

Drop:1.6 front
Dropt: 1.4 rear looks lower than that though

268 front
194 rear

Was at full stiff one side and 1 TFFS on the other side.. I didn't know this was set like that stock..
I re-adjusted to 5 TFFS on both sides.. At least I think I did.. WIll post back later..

The car was literally epic on smooth pavement near full stiff but any BUMP the car was like a bucking bronco Would not drive in the rain if my life depended on it at that setup.. Lets hope this new one is better.. Will get back to you guys


Will drive it later today.. to see if it made any difference..

Last edited by Dat8687; 04-15-2013 at 07:23 AM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:10 AM   #323
Dat8687
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Update... Just drove it.. Night and day difference.. It might be too soft now cant tell but its way smoother on the road to drop off my daughter too daycare.. (feels floaty now not directly connected to the road) But still turns well

I might turn it to 4.5 TFFS after I check it out on the highway etc..
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:20 PM   #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dat8687 View Post
Update... Just drove it.. Night and day difference.. It might be too soft now cant tell but its way smoother on the road to drop off my daughter too daycare.. (feels floaty now not directly connected to the road) But still turns well

I might turn it to 4.5 TFFS after I check it out on the highway etc..
My response is a combination of advice from the forum (in some cases like pulling teeth), felt sitting in other competitor's cars, what I've read in books, and my own experience.

The most useful technique for butt-dyno tuning is to go soft (like you did) then adjust in big increments (like maybe a full turn for d-specs) so the change is blaringly obvious and quickly gets you too stiff. Then reduce your increments by 50% of previous (ie now adjust by half turns) until you are too soft. Then again reduce adjustment increment by 50% (like quarter turns) until too stiff. Keep doing this until you get to a point about where you like. This is fuzzy logic adjustment and allows you to hone in at the "window" that you like. From here you know about where you want to be and can start fine tuning.

It is best that for EVERY adjustment, you tighten all the way to full stiff, then loosen to the adjustment setting you want. This helps make the actual setting to be more consistent. This process will take several days as you drive around with each setting. Keep a log of what setting you have.

The biggest challenge is figuring out what setting is right, and you can't go by "what feels comfortable or solid". The problem is that over dampening actually feels awesome on smooth roads and it will cause you to want to keep stiffening up the setting (you experienced this with your full tight setting). The other problem is that at low parking lot speeds, underdamped will feel the most comfortable. You'll need to be going at least 30-60 mph to get a feel for the setting that will work for you. Lastly, your suspended butt bouncing in your seat can skew your sense of comfort/rigidity.

Instead, focus on the oscillations of the sprung weight of your car (chassis). Your damper affects "floaty", but your springs are more about "turns well". Don't use speed bumps to evaluate your settings.

Have you learned to "read the road with your right foot"? IE, adjust throttle to "absorb" bumps in the road? The feel you get from this helps you realize what you want out of your dampers. When you're driving down a highway/expressway and the road has undulations, absorb it with your throttle application. If the chassis rocks more than 1 or 2 times after the bumped, you're probably in "underdamped" territory. If the chassis feels like a juggernaut sucking up the bumps, you might be in "overdamped" territory (and your tires are actually sucking up the bumps).

This should address the easy first 90% of adjusting your struts. The last 10% is the hard part and requires lots of test/time/tune and advice from the "fast experts".

Good luck and happy adjusting.

Last edited by chimchimm5; 04-15-2013 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:20 PM   #325
Dat8687
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chimchimm5 View Post
My response is a combination of advice from the forum (in some cases like pulling teeth), felt sitting in other competitor's cars, what I've read in books, and my own experience.

The most useful technique for butt-dyno tuning is to go soft (like you did) then adjust in big increments (like maybe a full turn for d-specs) so the change is blaringly obvious and quickly gets you too stiff. Then reduce your increments by 50% of previous (ie now adjust by half turns) until you are too soft. Then again reduce adjustment increment by 50% (like quarter turns) until too stiff. Keep doing this until you get to a point about where you like. This is fuzzy logic adjustment and allows you to hone in at the "window" that you like. From hear you know about where you want to be and can start fine tuning.

It is best that for EVERY adjustment, you tighten all the way to full stiff, then loosen to the adjustment setting you want. This helps make the actual setting to be more consistent. This process will take several days as you drive around with each setting. Keep a log of what setting you have.

The biggest challenge is figuring out what setting is right, and you can't go by "what feels comfortable or solid". The problem is that over dampening actually feels awesome on smooth roads and it will cause you to want to keep stiffening up the setting (you experienced this with your full tight setting). The other problem is that at low parking lot speeds, underdamped will feel the most comfortable. You'll need to be going at least 30-60 mph to get a feel for the setting that will work for you. Lastly, your suspended butt bouncing in your seat can skew your sense of comfort/rigidity.

Instead, focus on the oscillations of the sprung weight of your car (chassis). Your damper affects "floaty", but your springs are more about "turns well". Don't use speed bumps to evaluate your settings.

Have you learned to "read the road with your right foot"? IE, adjust throttle to "absorb" bumps in the road? The feel you get from this helps you realize what you want out of your dampers. When you're driving down a highway/expressway and the road has undulations, absorb it with your throttle application. If the chassis rocks more than 1 or 2 times after the bumped, you're probably in "underdamped" territory. If the chassis feels like a juggernaut sucking up the bumps, you might be in "overdamped" territory (and your tires are actually sucking up the bumps).

This should address the easy first 90% of adjusting your struts. The last 10% is the hard part and requires lots of test/time/tune and advice from the "fast experts".

Good luck and happy adjusting.
Thanks... Yea it was in the juggernaut mode for the last week because I didn't even check the struts.. I didn't realize they would be set to full stiff stock.. Well one side was the other was one from it.. Now I know why one side felt slightly different than the other.

I at the 5TFFS and I will do what you stated drive it some more on the highway etc gauge the the bumps I normally go over when im on the freeway near me.. And adjust it accordingly.. I will post back in a few days to see where im at on the settings.. In the juggernaut mode I was being vary wary of the bumps I know because I basically remember them all. And would have to slow down crazy to avoid the stiffness of the setup.

Thanks again
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