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Old 03-06-2013, 07:25 PM   #1
devilmademedoit
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Default Why is my new timing belt shredding on inside?

New shortblock, rebuilt heads. All new gates timing components car ran fine for 70 miles or so. The new timing belt is shredding up on the inside edge toward the motor not the front of car. There is new crank gear as well. Why would this happen? There was no rubbing and plenty of clearance on the outer cam guides and the recommended 1mm clearance for crank guide. Is is possible for cam gears to warp for some reason? Belt jumped a couple teeth as well. Tensioner is brand new. Belt felt tight. I left timing covers off for a while when I first ran motor and didn't notice any rubbing anywhere. I'm at a loss here. Anything I may be overlooking

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Old 03-06-2013, 08:35 PM   #2
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If it's a non-OEM belt then maybe the specifications are off.

I read some of the aftermarket ones can be thicker and can cause some issues.
my2cents
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:01 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrg123 View Post
If it's a non-OEM belt then maybe the specifications are off.

I read some of the aftermarket ones can be thicker and can cause some issues.
my2cents
Except gates is a well known brand and chances of that being the issue are rare.
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:05 PM   #4
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if you didnt re-set the belt guides...then it may be doing that...especially since the blue 'racing' belts are thicker than stock
there is a clearence gap ya need it to be....just like a sparkplug...ya gotta gap 'em
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:28 PM   #5
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I have adjusted the guides at the corners and the guide over the crank is adjusted as well to the recommended 1mm
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:45 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devilmademedoit View Post
I have adjusted the guides at the corners and the guide over the crank is adjusted as well to the recommended 1mm
then ya gotta figure out where its rubbing and what ya gotta do to stop it, then
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:08 AM   #7
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The only things not changed were back timing covers, cam gears and all bolts. I guess I'll have to look at all if that. Is it possible for the cam gears to be off balance or warped? They were seated right on the cams
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:10 PM   #8
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You haven't explained why you skipped teeth, either - any idea how that happened?
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrashTestRacer View Post
You haven't explained why you skipped teeth, either - any idea how that happened?
No clue. Maybe the new tensioner at fault here. Car ran great for 70 miles or so timing marks were dead on everything nice and tight to spec. I just hope when I do compression check its ok heads were just rebuilt.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:35 PM   #10
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hopefully you didn't bend any valves
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Old 03-07-2013, 04:10 PM   #11
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Tensioner is good I just took it out and when I removed bottom idler pulley the tensioner tried to tighten the belt right up. It looks like there was a lot of rubbing on the back passenger timing cover. Is it possible that these will warp for some reason? It actually cut right thru above the intake gear. All pulleys are brand new Gates they all were tight. Nothing loosened up
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:19 PM   #12
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improper re-assembly????
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:30 PM   #13
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A little subaru birdie told me there was a bad batch of timing belt tensioners.
If I were you I'd take the tensioner off and test it first.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:39 PM   #14
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What would be the proper way to check tensioner? I don't think it was improper reassembly. I've done a few of these and never had a problem before. All guides had proper clearance. It really looks like belt was rubbing on rear covers
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicklz View Post
A little subaru birdie told me there was a bad batch of timing belt tensioners.
If I were you I'd take the tensioner off and test it first.
I'd actually call this plausible. I say this because I did my timing belt 2K miles before my rebuild, and once I did my rebuild with a new belt the tensioner was junk.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:05 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by devilmademedoit View Post
What would be the proper way to check tensioner? I don't think it was improper reassembly. I've done a few of these and never had a problem before. All guides had proper clearance. It really looks like belt was rubbing on rear covers
I'd wager the rubbing on the belt occured when it jumped timing.
I'm not sure of the procedure on testing it though. I remember it was tested and deemed to be defective from several shops around the country. But I don't remember how they did it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:35 AM   #17
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This happened to me one time, a small bolt that I apparently had not torqued enough started backing out after a few miles, less than 100 miles later the timing belt was getting chewed up and ended up jumping some teeth. I just put a new belt on, tightened the bolt and was good to go. Those pictures dont make it look so bad, I'd just keep my eye on it.
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Old 03-08-2013, 08:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turd Nugget View Post
This happened to me one time, a small bolt that I apparently had not torqued enough started backing out after a few miles, less than 100 miles later the timing belt was getting chewed up and ended up jumping some teeth. I just put a new belt on, tightened the bolt and was good to go.
Thanks. I'm going to double check everything Put new rear timing covers on and hope that's it
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:12 PM   #19
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Ok finished pulling things apart. My passenger rear cover was severely shredded up. So I am wondering if it was warped. Either way I orders new ones. Also look at the pic of the small pulley above the water pump. Notice the threads. It only threads in like 3 threads. Is that normal? The tap in the block easily can take more
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:36 PM   #20
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That's a "new style" idler with an "old style" bolt.

The "old style" idler has one bearing inside, and the "new style" has 2 bearings stacked on each other, so really want a longer bolt. The newer cars come with a longer bolt. Go to your local Fastenal to get the appropriate bolt... I think 10.9. You can also get it from the dealer... let me dig up where I saw the part number... Gimme 5 minutes.

Edit: Here it is: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=5780
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Old 03-08-2013, 05:55 PM   #21
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I wonder if the shorter bolt maybe caused the pulley to wobble a bit being it was not threaded in long enough
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Old 03-08-2013, 06:12 PM   #22
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im very suprized it did'nt strip out the the threads....there a bit of load on the pullies.
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:35 PM   #23
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the belt i came across that were "shredded" was due to the crank sprocket
belt guide. 1 off a cosworth, 1 off a pink one like yours, 1 off a no name.

but i will say that I have not come across the same issue with the factory
crank sprocket guide.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:47 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxscuby View Post
the belt i came across that were "shredded" was due to the crank sprocket
belt guide. 1 off a cosworth, 1 off a pink one like yours, 1 off a no name.

but i will say that I have not come across the same issue with the factory
crank sprocket guide.
I will say that there was some blue residue on the underside of the belt guide. I did clearance it to 1mm as recommended. I wonder if it is a good idea to go a bit more or not. They are out there so belts cannot jump If I were to go another .5mm would that be safe? I also am on my way to pick up the longer bolt for the small pulley. Ordered 2 new rear covers and a new Gates racing belt
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:39 PM   #25
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Good call on that required longer bolt kit.
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