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Old 03-09-2013, 07:42 AM   #226
hoffmanEstates
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^^^ LACk of operation. Cars that sit not driven for lengthy periods **** starts failing
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Old 03-09-2013, 01:08 PM   #227
subiewill
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For those that are not having good results after assembling their pump, make sure that the front and rear plates (i.e., the plate at the front near the shaft seal and the rear case) are assembled correctly with respect to their rotation about the shaft. The rear case is fixed and can only go on one way, but the front plate can be incorrectly installed.

The pin that the internals rotate about (at the bottom of the pump) must fit into the front plate (there is a small hole) as well as the rear case. You can see this hole in the pictures at the beginning of this thread. It is possible to assemble the pump without lining it up, but it requires a lot of force since the pin sticks out further and deforms the rear case. (Don't ask how I know.....)

At any rate, the grooves that pass through each plate should be 180 degrees from each other. That way the fluid can come through the back (I think) and go out through the front. If you put them where they line up with each other (incorrect), the pump won’t deliver any pressure.

I tried to post some pictures with arrows to make this more clear, but I wasn’t smart enough to do it without authority to post attachments.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:38 AM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hadi10 View Post
a quick question, my PS pump is leaking exactly as shown on pics on this thread.. I have only 3700 miles on my car..!! its a bit weird to have the pump leak with such low miles.!!!
what could be the reason for such a leak ?
Though I'm no scientist, I would imagine the rubber bits are degrading as soon as they are exposed to the environment. In. The case of the power steering pump, the environment includes automatic transmission fluid. I'd bet the metal parts of the pump are near perfect, but all the little rubber o-rings (and hoses, belts, and tires) are getting older and drying out or degarding. Fluids too (i'll bet you've changed the oil more than once even though there's only 3700 miles on it).
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Old 03-15-2013, 03:45 PM   #229
Drk93TT
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*** Update again ***

**
1x MS28775-015 - FEP Encapsulated
1x MS28775-017 - FEP Encapsulated
1x MS28775-021 - FEP Encapsulated
1x MS28775-037 - FEP Encapsulated
1x MS28775-136 - FEP Encapsulated
3x MS28775-014 - FEP Encapsulated
100x MS28775-013 -Buna N per post #9
**

I replaced the 2 inside seals, the big one and the small one were the only 2 I replaced INSIDE the pump itself W/ FEP. Not leaking yet. Hopefully it stays that way... I will update if it doesnt. EXTERNALLY- Also did the sensor on the back with a new o-ring, the bolt one with the spring, and the inlet joint o ring with FEP. A total of 5 replaced all FEP... crossing my fingers they hold tight.

Sidenote..
Also rebuilt my alternator with new bearings, they originally swapped the regulator too.. I installed and had battery light,brake light,r diff temp light on+ No charging...
Removed and they put the OEM regulator back on and everythings back to normal on the alternator.[/i]


My pump is LEAKING AGAIN.. looks like the big o ring is the culprit. the one that seals the 2 halves together.

I HIGHLY suggest people stay away from FEP encapsulated o rings to do this job. Bottom line the big o ring is just too THIN to seal correctly. Shoulda thrown the thing in the garbage. Will be rebuidling again, and replacing just the 2 o rings that are required the big one and the smaller one that comes off when you seperate the 2 halves of the pump (4 bolts)
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:40 AM   #230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drk93TT View Post
My pump is LEAKING AGAIN.. looks like the big o ring is the culprit. the one that seals the 2 halves together.

I HIGHLY suggest people stay away from FEP encapsulated o rings to do this job. Bottom line the big o ring is just too THIN to seal correctly. Shoulda thrown the thing in the garbage. Will be rebuidling again, and replacing just the 2 o rings that are required the big one and the smaller one that comes off when you seperate the 2 halves of the pump (4 bolts)
When you take it apart, check to see if the big one is damaged like it got pinched. There is the tiniest of grooves around the big ring and if it's not seated right, the o-rings will get sliced (someone posted this a while back. As far as I know my FEP rings are doing fine. Do keep us posted.
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Old 03-16-2013, 07:12 PM   #231
Drk93TT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXFanDave View Post
When you take it apart, check to see if the big one is damaged like it got pinched. There is the tiniest of grooves around the big ring and if it's not seated right, the o-rings will get sliced (someone posted this a while back. As far as I know my FEP rings are doing fine. Do keep us posted.
The o ring came out 100% undamaged, looks good as new. The top was leaking as well as all around the case. The bolts were tight enough too !

Reinstalled last night with regular thicker black o rings from hardware store, so far so good.. if this thing leaks again however Im going w a new or reconditioned pump for exchange.


*!*!* 1 week later not leaking anymore with a black buna-n style o ring, thicker and seems to have sealed great!

Last edited by Drk93TT; 03-24-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 04-08-2013, 11:59 AM   #232
shifty35
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Rebuilt mine this weekend with all FEP orings. ~50 miles so far, no leaks.
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Old 04-10-2013, 11:58 PM   #233
terrywj
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I also would recommend using standard o rings for this, the black buna n.

I rebuilt once using the fep, worked for awhile, perhaps never quite had full assist, but then the pump started leaking again onto the engine block.

Went down to rocket seals (they are local to me) and the guy there said that the buna n rings were more than sufficient for ATF. He also said he has recieved many orders and walk in customers rebuilding subaru p.s. pumps I believe as a direct result of this thread. I recommend Rocket Seals.

Thank you cadillac and this thread, saved me a bunch of cash.

But anyway I think the black rings are the way to go. My pump is now better than ever. Even if the buna n doesnt last quite as long, this rebuild is pretty simple especially if you have done it once or twice already. I got confused in a couple places but just zoomed in on cadillacs pics and was good to go.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:15 AM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArtOf_Fast View Post
Well I had a long drawn out reply to this thread with pictures and all. but it's been about 3 weeks now and still hasn't been "approved" by the moderators. so here is my shortened version.

the o-ring all the way in the center of the pump is wrong. OP has dash 21 listed as the size, but that o-ring (especially in FEP) is way too thin as other have posted. I used a dash 119 FEP ring with EXCELLENT results, plenty of power steering at idle and no noise. The dash 21 O-ring doesn't seal properly with the pump half and as a result you get low to no power steering at idle.
This too ^^
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Old 04-13-2013, 09:09 PM   #235
68Cadillac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogintheback
Thank you for the write up! I need to replace the top o-ring on my pump. I saw Harbor Freight has HNBR in the proper size. Would you have any reservations using the Harbor Freight o-ring?

OGITB
If I put all that effort into rebuilding my own power steering pump I would not trust a HF O-Ring. I've purchased whole 500 packs of zipties that were brittle from there. Threw 488 in the trash. The first 12 broke trying to zip.

Buna N is not that expensive. Just get them from a quality hardware store.

68
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:43 PM   #236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArtOf_Fast View Post
the o-ring all the way in the center of the pump is wrong. OP has dash 21 listed as the size, but that o-ring (especially in FEP) is way too thin as other have posted. I used a dash 119 FEP ring with EXCELLENT results, plenty of power steering at idle and no noise. The dash 21 O-ring doesn't seal properly with the pump half and as a result you get low to no power steering at idle.
Updated the Masterlist stating the -119 size might be needed on some pumps instead of the the -021.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArtOf_Fast View Post
happy rebuilding and thanks to 68cadillac for doing the original research and being the first guinea pig
You're welcome.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:53 AM   #237
Bryan82
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Thanks for the thread and all the hard work. After viewing this write up, I have just placed an order with Rocketseals and will be tackling this job ASAP. I went with just Buna N all around. I will let this thread know how it goes.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:52 PM   #238
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Awesome DIY, thanks
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:16 PM   #239
egibson0205
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2004 WRX

I did the rebuild about a month ago and everything had been going ok until yesterday. I was driving down the road and heard what sounded like a rock being thrown in my car. I later found out that the nut holding the pulley onto the power steering pump came off. As i was pulling into a parking lot the steering became hard and it felt like there was grinding. I opened the hood to find the pulley off the shaft. The teeth on the power steering pump shaft and the teeth on the pulley were stripped. I don't know what caused it. I thought maybe the bearing failed but I can still twist the shaft fairly easily so I don't know if it possible that the orings inside caused some failure/seizure of the pump or I had the belt too tight. My problem now is that I need a new pump and pulley. The refurb pumps at o'rielly don't come with pulleys and the dealer doesn't sell pulleys separate, only with a new pump. Anyone have any ideas on what caused problem and/or any suggestions on what to do?

Last edited by egibson0205; 04-29-2013 at 01:46 PM.
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Old 04-29-2013, 06:31 PM   #240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egibson0205 View Post
2004 WRX
any suggestions on what to do?
Car-Part.com. Nationwide database of used parts from salvage yards.
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Old 05-03-2013, 01:14 PM   #241
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Anyone with a GR (08+) STi replace their O-ring? Is it the same as previous years? My 2010 has been whining for a few weeks now, started getting louder during the colder months. Seems to quiet down a bit after the car's warmed up but it's still noticeable, especially at low speeds/standstill. No bubbles in the reservoir and steering feels fine, but that whine is irritating!

I've been to a few local shops and I haven't found an O-ring that matches the sizes posted on this and other threads yet.
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Old 05-03-2013, 02:48 PM   #242
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Having the same issue. This post helped.
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Old 05-03-2013, 08:48 PM   #243
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This thread made my day! Thanks for sharing your time and efforts! I have had a slow, seeping leak for a long time and couldn't figure it out until today. Noticed the pump was the culprit.
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Old 05-04-2013, 05:40 AM   #244
WRXFanDave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hojusimpson View Post
I've been to a few local shops and I haven't found an O-ring that matches the sizes posted on this and other threads yet.
Did you try a NAPA yet?
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Old 05-28-2013, 06:09 PM   #245
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Rebuilt my pump over the weekend. '06 STi. I can verify the -119 size for the innermost o-ring and the additional -014 between the case halves. I used FEP for the -119 and Green HBNR for the rest. Successful so far. Not one peep from the pump.
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:41 PM   #246
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I suggest people reconsider using the FEP rings. Go with the buna-n. A few days after I rebuilt the pump with FEP rings, the pump was whining like a banshee and sucking in air. I replaced the small oring on the spigot piece that is secured with the 10mm bolt with just a regular black o-ring and the whining stopped.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:45 PM   #247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mordecai View Post
I replaced the small oring on the spigot piece that is secured with the 10mm bolt with just a regular black o-ring and the whining stopped.
FEP has a better rating and takes higher temperatures than Buna-N. The ONLY thing Buna-N has in its favor is price. FEP is superior in every other way when used in hydraulic fluid.

I'd look to your installation procedure. Perhaps you cut or pinched on install. Maybe the air-bleeding process didn't work the first time. Air in the lines causes whining. Under tightening of the "spigot". There's a whole host of things I'd look at before I'd blame the FEP material.

There's a whole host of fellas on this forum that have posted how well the FEP seals. You're the first to post it didn't. It's not the FEP. I think something else went wrong.
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Old 07-07-2013, 06:30 PM   #248
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I just found this thread as my 06 Legacy's steering pump needs some 'love' too... It's not leaking fluid, just seems to suck in air.

But unfortunately, it seems the design is not the same and O-ring sizes seem to be different... I'll take the Vernier caliper tomorrow and post the pictures and measurements.


D.
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:51 PM   #249
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As mentioned before, I have two PS pumps off a Subaru Legacy BP. They are quite similar, but not exactly the same.

One is off a 2006 Legacy BP 2.0R (DOHC NA engine) and was originally in my car, and the other is off a 2005 Legacy BP 3.0 AT.

While the two engines have very different brackets for the PS pump, the actual pump looks almost the same. There are, however, two differences - the one of a 3.0 engine is 2.5-3mm 'deeper' (if you look right at the pulley) AND it has a different pulley (it's wider and has one more 'rib').

The bracket is designed with a movable bushing, so the depth of the pump is not much of a problem.

The pulley, on the other hand, obviously is - so to use the 3.0 pump in my car, I had to swap the pulley, which is press fitted onto the axle.

To get the axle out, I had to disassemble both pumps, remove a small circlip and the axle with the pulley simply slid out. Having access to a 40T hydraulic press made it easy to swap the pulley.

Opening up both pumps also revealed the reason why the 3.0 pump is bigger - internal parts (the 'drum', the vanes, ...) are all bigger and the service manual confirms that the 3.0 pump actually has higher specs in flow and pressure...

Anyway - right now the 3.0 pump is in my car and it works - unfortunately it didn't cure the issue - a loud whining noise whilst turning the steering wheel. Obviously, that led me to this thread...

After going through all the posts in this thread I decided to (potentially) sacrifice my old pump and take it apart completely just so I could take photos and compose a list of parts that may be needed for a 'partial rebuild'.

First a couple of introduction photos:




It looks fairly similar to what I've seen in this thread (mind you this is the pump from my 2.0R with the 3.0 pulley).

However, similarities end here - the O-ring that is usually responsible for letting air in is 14x17x2mm. That's the actual measurement of the original O-ring, but I guess it's a bit squashed:



Here is the pump with the 'back cover' off - you can see two smaller O-rings on the main body and a larger one on the cover:



Can't fit more images in a single post, so I'll go in in the next one...
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Old 07-08-2013, 06:58 PM   #250
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First the smaller O-rings:





And now the large one- I noticed that there is a shallow groove where this O-ring seats:



* the second measurement is with the original O-ring in place...

And here's what this O-ring is supposed to seal against - that edge is a bit slanted:



Here's the circlip on the axle and the axle removed:



To be continued...
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