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Old 02-25-2013, 11:14 PM   #6001
Uncle Scotty
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Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 02-25-2013 at 11:25 PM.
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Old 03-09-2013, 07:44 AM   #6002
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So.... Got some spotlights. The little Lightforce 170s weren't big enough. So now there is a set of Lightforce 240s to keep them company.

The 170s are just as bright, same lamps inside, but the 240s project a tighter beam. Honestly... they are ridiculous.

Pics in a bit.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:54 PM   #6003
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I'm looking to wire some road lights in on my 2012 STi hatchback. I want to put a switch for the lights on the left side of the steering wheel (near the mirror controls).

Can anyone point me in the direction of some sort of information to find:

1. a +12V switched with ignition source
2. a signal that turns on with the high-beams (either only when the high beam bulbs are actually lit up, or both 'high beam switch on' and 'headlight switch on' signals)

Incidentally, I also plan on using a 3-way switch and having the opposite direction turn them on whether the high-beams are on or not - this is so I can use them as "real" fog lights if I clip the optional amber lenses on them. I want to be able to just flick my high beam switch on and off when I'm using them as driving lights on the highway though, hence my questions above.

Thanks!!
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:52 PM   #6004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilspoons View Post
I'm looking to wire some road lights in on my 2012 STi hatchback. I want to put a switch for the lights on the left side of the steering wheel (near the mirror controls).

Can anyone point me in the direction of some sort of information to find:

1. a +12V switched with ignition source
2. a signal that turns on with the high-beams (either only when the high beam bulbs are actually lit up, or both 'high beam switch on' and 'headlight switch on' signals)

Incidentally, I also plan on using a 3-way switch and having the opposite direction turn them on whether the high-beams are on or not - this is so I can use them as "real" fog lights if I clip the optional amber lenses on them. I want to be able to just flick my high beam switch on and off when I'm using them as driving lights on the highway though, hence my questions above.

Thanks!!
That's the same way I set mine up.

I used "add a fuse" taps in the engine fuse compartment, 2 of them. One on a headlight fuse, one on a high beam fuse. One runs power to a relay, the other is the switched line to that relay. This way, when the headlights AND the high beams are on, the relay sends power through.

This line runs to one leg of a double pole switch. The other gets power from an "add a fuse" from the interior fuse block that is powered with the ignition.

The center leg of the switch goes to the relay that powers the lights.

I had to do it this way, because just using the high beam only turned on the lights when the DRL kicked on... not what I wanted. Now, flip the switch up, light goes on when ignition is on, center and light is off, flipped down and lights go on when high beams are on. I can draw a diagram later for you if you want. Good light! I mean luck...

Oh yeah, no one leaves high beams on toward me for long... or I can flash 400 watts of off-road glare right back at them...
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Old 03-13-2013, 05:07 PM   #6005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddoak View Post
So.... Got some spotlights. The little Lightforce 170s weren't big enough. So now there is a set of Lightforce 240s to keep them company.

The 170s are just as bright, same lamps inside, but the 240s project a tighter beam. Honestly... they are ridiculous.

Pics in a bit.






I have the wide covers on the 170's, so they act as flood lights. The 240's are spot lights... And they are flamethrowers. Tight, concentrated circle of blinding light. Useful for spotting deer and pigs as far away as your eyesight is good. They are overkill for a driving light. I can't imagine what the brighter HID versions are like. I've cleaned up the wiring from the first shot.

They are wired to a three switch bank, with Carling Contura V switches. The 2 front lights are on a double throw switch, as described in the post above. The third switch is wired to an always on connection for the roof mounted LED floods. 5 LEDs on the roof draw less power than 1 of 4 front lights... Gotta love LEDS! The 2 front light switches have lit emblems when power is on, and a light that comes on when they are actually lit, so I don't accidentally have them on during the day, pissing off other drivers. Wiring the switches was quite the project. I'm going to swap the roof light switch for one that better matches the other two, it's on order and should be here this week.

Light!
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:10 PM   #6006
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Here's a quick and slightly sloppy and not reviewed for correctness idea of the relay and switch layout. Obviously, the switch has a center (off) position, and the lights aren't resisters, per se... and the fuses aren't power sources... but they are for this!



So when the high beams are on, the relay (RLY1) will pass the low beam current to the switch. Obviously, if the low beams are off, then no current goes on to the relay to pass through... So you use one relay, and it it acts as a logical AND switch. The high beam AND low beams AND switch must be on to turn the lights on. The other pole of the switch is connected to a fuse that has power when the ignition is on, radio for example. This will turn the lights on and off independently of the high or low beams.

The light relay (RLY2) will connect fused power from the battery when it receives current from the switch. If you want to pose a higher risk of burning your car down, you can skip this relay and run full power through the switch to the lights. Most likely you will very quickly pop the fuse(s) you're pulling power through this way. I would not recommend it... Just run a separate fused line to a relay and move on!

I buy the relays with the connectors. This makes it much easier to wire it all together, just solder wires and there you go. If a relay pops (or drowns, under the hood) disconnect and replace it, real easy like. I recommend getting a water resistant fuse holder. I recommend this after drowning my first one... Oops! I also recommend you use ATM fuses (or whatever the rest of your car uses) because it makes carrying spares easier. I ran the wires out of the under hood fuse box through existing holes in the front facing part of it. Lucky break, that, or I would have drilled a small hole, ran wires, and then siliconed it tight.

If any of this needs clarification (or is just F$%^&ing wrong and I goofed writing it, please let me know! Think about what you're doing before connecting expensive lights to your expensive car systems before you start connecting wires... Just in case.

Last edited by reddoak; 03-13-2013 at 07:23 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:07 PM   #6007
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Wow, thanks for the effort on your replies. This will be useful to many people, I imagine. The nice thing about this approach is that it will work on virtually any car.

I've managed to find the wiring diagram from the service manual for my car. I am exploring any potential signals that will allow me to reduce the number of relays to one (getting rid of the AND gate). Mostly, I want to keep the wiring clean because I'm lazy (minimal number of wires through the firewall).

Your way will certainly work though and I will likely fall back to it if my research doesn't reveal anything useful. I'll keep everyone posted
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:43 PM   #6008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilspoons View Post
Wow, thanks for the effort on your replies. This will be useful to many people, I imagine. The nice thing about this approach is that it will work on virtually any car.

I've managed to find the wiring diagram from the service manual for my car. I am exploring any potential signals that will allow me to reduce the number of relays to one (getting rid of the AND gate). Mostly, I want to keep the wiring clean because I'm lazy (minimal number of wires through the firewall).

Your way will certainly work though and I will likely fall back to it if my research doesn't reveal anything useful. I'll keep everyone posted
I kept the two relays under the hood. I ran one wire from the relay (SW1) to the switch through the firewall. And one wire from the other side of the switch back to the light relay (RLY2). I used outdoor rated 14 ga 2 wire cable from home depot... so it was just one run through the firewall.(I'm lying, I have 4 lights, so I have 2 cables) I don't like leaving wires all over the place, either.

If you can trace the high beam switch in the cabin, you'll be better off. That's a neater, cleaner solution. Then you would only need to run 1 wire from the switch to the light relay. Two reasons I didn't do it this way:
1. I'm lazy. Reading OEM wire schematics suck.
2. I Didn't want to cut into stock wiring. I yank out three "add a fuses" and some cabling and I'm stock again.

Make sure you post what you wind up with. If you work out a solution to tap into the stock wiring harness on a WRX other people will want to know. I made the diagram deliberately generic, since people may use other types of relays with different pins, and Outback fuse locations are probably different than anything other than a Legacy.

I showed a friend the back of the switches last night, he was thinking of doing a similar thing... He saw a mass of soldered, shrink tubed, connections with 7 connections on each switch and his eyes kind of bugged out. Electrical projects can look pretty overwhelming, even though they are simple broken down step by step. I just have to write it all out on scratch paper as a diagram first, then follow my own directions.

One think I considered was finding the wire in the car that leads to the high beam indicator in the dash, and using that as a signal wire. That only lights when the high beams are on, so it would work. I'm just not sure how much power the relay for the lights would draw.
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Old 03-14-2013, 02:57 PM   #6009
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Switches pictures:

The back. Simple as pie. Follow the wires...


Switches in the dash:



And lit. First with just the light on the switch on, second with the indicator lights on when the big lights are actually on. Note, on switch in the "up" on position, the other in the "down" position.





The roof light switch is red when on... It's getting replaced with a "Sasquatch Light" switch that is a DTSP switch matching the other two. That should be in this week, hopefully.
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Old 03-14-2013, 03:07 PM   #6010
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Where did you get those switches? they're awesome!
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:19 PM   #6011
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The Zombie Lights switch probably comes from here: http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.ph...J66B-AFCZL-1ZL

That is a slightly different version. I was thinking of buying it but no real good place exists in the 08+ Impreza to cleanly mount it.

I took a harder look at the wiring diagram for my car and came to the conclusion that doing anything other than your method is too invasive. The high beam lamp is controlled by the instrument cluster computer and it's turned on over CANBUS, you'd have to hack the cluster apart and solder wires (or install a bus sniffer...). The DRL relay control method might work but the coil is toggled via a switched ground so adding another device on that wire would have to be in series rather than parallel, meaning cut wires.

Two relays and two add-a-circuits are much more removable and cleaner.
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:27 PM   #6012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilspoons View Post
The Zombie Lights switch probably comes from here: http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.ph...J66B-AFCZL-1ZL

That is a slightly different version. I was thinking of buying it but no real good place exists in the 08+ Impreza to cleanly mount it.

I took a harder look at the wiring diagram for my car and came to the conclusion that doing anything other than your method is too invasive. The high beam lamp is controlled by the instrument cluster computer and it's turned on over CANBUS, you'd have to hack the cluster apart and solder wires (or install a bus sniffer...). The DRL relay control method might work but the coil is toggled via a switched ground so adding another device on that wire would have to be in series rather than parallel, meaning cut wires.

Two relays and two add-a-circuits are much more removable and cleaner.
I got them from OTRATTW.com, here's their lighting switch page: http://otrattw.com/products.php?cat=34
Funny switches are in the novelty switches.
Apocalypse lights: http://otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VVPZCSC-1AL
Zombie Lights: http://otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VVPZCZL-1ZL
Sasquatch lights on order: http://otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VVPZCSQ-100

Switch bodies are (will be) V6D2UHNB – SPDT ON/OFF/ON –

They are rated for 20 amps with 12volts. I ran relays to the front lights, even though it's only 16 amps... The roof lights only draw 7 amps, I just ran power through the switch for them. It's tapped off the battery with a 10 amp fuse.
Good stuff!

As far as the relays and so forth... yeah. It's not complicated doing it with the second relay, just a little more work. Worth it to get what you want out of it.

When the third switch comes in, I've got an interesting idea for the second switch position... But I'll be back to running wires again. Sigh... Modding the dang Outback is becoming as much an obsession as modding my STI was; just in different directions!

Last edited by reddoak; 03-14-2013 at 06:44 PM.
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:45 PM   #6013
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I picked these up awhile ago for a great deal from a fellow member. They where pretty beat up and a hacked harness. After plastic welding, painting and a rewire I'm happy with them. A exelent addition to the 1000ff's.
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Old 03-14-2013, 11:37 PM   #6014
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Oh the things you can do with aftermarket lights!
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Old 03-15-2013, 06:39 AM   #6015
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Carr Lightwing (custom fabricated mounting so that it can be mounted upside down) with Hella Black Magic 500s

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Old 03-15-2013, 09:55 AM   #6016
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those switches look fun enough...but they look to be bigger than my switch locations allow
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Old 03-17-2013, 04:20 PM   #6017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmi View Post
I picked these up awhile ago for a great deal from a fellow member. They where pretty beat up and a hacked harness. After plastic welding, painting and a rewire I'm happy with them. A exelent addition to the 1000ff's.
Your car (and bar) still look great!!
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:59 AM   #6018
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Your car (and bar) still look great!!
Thanks, It's a huge help when the snow gets a little tall. I've had a lot of complements on it. Not bad for a prototype!
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:14 AM   #6019
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Thanks, It's a huge help when the snow gets a little tall. I've had a lot of complements on it. Not bad for a prototype!
Agreed - glad to hear all is well!
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:45 PM   #6020
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Alright, newb question but here goes...

I intend on running Hella 1000's to compliment my high beams on my '11 WRX. If the supplied wiring harness is anything like the one that came with my PIAA 520's, it will have a remote signal wire that I should tap into my high beams with. The switch will allow to make it so the 1000's either come on with my brights, or stay off when I turn on my brights. I'm fine with that, because if I need the 1000's on, I might as well have my brights on too. I'm more so wondering if the DRL will be sending constant signal to the relay (when my DRL's are on), and if that's bad?

My other concern is that if the DRL's (which are high beams on the 08+), and my switch is on, then my 1000's would be on?

Should I just unplug the DRL module, or is it not really a concern?
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:04 PM   #6021
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I think DRL's are required in Canada (amirite?)
otherwise unplug the module imho DRL's are dumb and amount to nothing more than shortened bulb life.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #6022
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DRL's are legally required, unfortunately. I could probably get away without them, but I just wanted to see if there was another way. I might end up using a fuse-tap and just running off of accessory.

I'm also looking at getting a 20" Dual Row LED bar, 9600 lumen combo of spot/flood. For me it will either be the Hella 1000's ($240 to my door) or the 20" LED bar (315$ to my door). Unfortunately the company doesn't have any output videos, so I'm just basing it off of Skemcin's video on youtube.

Really up in the air right now, and I've probably spent about 20 hours looking at light options in the past week... Opinions, anyone?
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Old 03-18-2013, 11:56 PM   #6023
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Does it matter what lights are the DRLs? If not i'd look into switching them to the fogs..

As for leds, my 10inch spot led single row lit up the side of a small mountain that was about half a mile a way (not unbelievably bright but enough to make trails visible) if that gives you any idea.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:53 AM   #6024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alt14 View Post
Does it matter what lights are the DRLs? If not i'd look into switching them to the fogs..

As for leds, my 10inch spot led single row lit up the side of a small mountain that was about half a mile a way (not unbelievably bright but enough to make trails visible) if that gives you any idea.
just turn the bloody things off for good and be done
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:43 AM   #6025
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He was saying that it's required to have the DRLs in Canada
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