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Old 03-21-2013, 03:52 PM   #1
chenzonies
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Default fcpimport.com timing belt kit

Any thoughts on this timing belt kit? Seems to be a good deal and includes a lot of stuff others don't. It list the manufacturers of all the included parts further down the page.

http://www.fcpimport.com/products/su...-fcp-subukit-1
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:57 PM   #2
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looks to be a good compiled kit, i just wouldn't go changing any camseals or the crank seal if they weren't leaking.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:38 AM   #3
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looks like a good kit. the one i got off ebay was pretty much the same thing, minus cam and crank seals. ive never seen any issues with GMB, thats the water pump im using now from the kit. the NTN tensioner is key too, that is a quality bearing. most good kits come with GMB/NTN parts.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:16 PM   #4
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That kit is a horror show. Kmart parts, ESPECIALLY when it comes to belt manufacturer, is a bad idea.
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Old 04-04-2013, 01:41 PM   #5
aboothman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
That kit is a horror show. Kmart parts, ESPECIALLY when it comes to belt manufacturer, is a bad idea.
Do you have some actually experience, or data, to back up that claim of "Kmart parts?"
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Old 04-04-2013, 02:59 PM   #6
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
That kit is a horror show. Kmart parts, ESPECIALLY when it comes to belt manufacturer, is a bad idea.
Mitsuboshi is one of the larger belt manufacturers started in Japan and supplies OEM to almost all car makes including Subaru. http://www.mblusa.com/automotive/map-with-customers/
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Old 04-04-2013, 08:44 PM   #7
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my OEM belts on my car when i replaced them a few years ago were all mitsubishi and i never had an issue with them.

i would consider a gates timing belt over mitsu though. my kit looked exactly like this one, except all belts were gates, not mitsu.
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Old 04-05-2013, 12:36 AM   #8
joebobanaught
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
That kit is a horror show. Kmart parts, ESPECIALLY when it comes to belt manufacturer, is a bad idea.
I, too, am curious why you say this. While I bought my car used, I have no reason to believe he changed the drive belts prior to me purchasing (only 14k miles on the car), and it came with Mitsuboshi drive belts. While drive belts are not as important as a timing belt, I have to wonder, why Subaru uses "Kmart parts" as OEM drive belts.
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Old 04-05-2013, 01:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chenzonies View Post
Any thoughts on this timing belt kit? Seems to be a good deal and includes a lot of stuff others don't. It list the manufacturers of all the included parts further down the page.
Thoughts? My impression from what I've read on this forum is that the idler bearings wear out faster than the OEM Mitsuboshi belt.

I'd feel safer with the Mitsuboshi belt than with the Gates belt that came with the Gates kit I bought, even though Gates warranties the parts for the 105/105 factory interval (it's easier for them to put up a belt than for me to bet my engine). That said, I don't feel underserved with the Gates belt. The (Bando) drive belts in the fcimport kit are a non-issue, comparatively speaking.

If the bearings in the kit you're looking at are "double thick" and from a reputable manufacturer, I would think you'd have nothing to worry about. I don't know how you'd know that, though, until you have the parts in hand. Meaty's guides show some single thickness bearings with the brown and/or green bearing seals that are apparently to be avoided, and I find it hard to argue against a (double-thick) bearing setup, as it spreads the stress over a larger area than the single thickness bearings. The Gates kit I purchased includes double-thick Koyo (Japan) bearings.

Perhaps someone who has recently purchased the fcimport kit in question will chime in and save us from further speculation.

Last edited by 1x2; 04-05-2013 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastnoypi View Post
Mitsuboshi is one of the larger belt manufacturers started in Japan and supplies OEM to almost all car makes including Subaru. http://www.mblusa.com/automotive/map-with-customers/
When I clicked on his link, the belts pictured are from "Bando" not Mitsuboshi, so I don't know where you are coming from. I'd have no issue with Mitsuboshi belts myself, but Bando....that's asking for Failo.


***Edit**** The timing belt is Mitsuboshi....I see. Still, you'd have to be a moron to use it when you can get a Gates belt for probably the same price.

Ya'll are free to buy where and what you want, but I'm SOLD on Gates when it comes to belts. I'd also use an OEM water pump from Subaru all day long over a pot metal replacement from China. Once again...your call.

Last edited by Unabomber; 04-05-2013 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:41 PM   #11
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I have no issues with Bando either (had a set that lasted 5-6 years iirc),
most brand AC and Power steering belts are about 20 bucks anywhere. Having either snap, either gets you hot in the summer months or makes it a pain in the ass to steer in parking lots,.. inconvenience but no big deal.
If they last 5 years, thats great, its a disposible wear and tear item thats easy enough to swap out.

The GMB parts that i have used (few idler pulleys) have been good, however..
OEM subaru water pump all day long on my 207 for my piece of mind.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:53 PM   #12
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Go OEM, or go home.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:57 AM   #13
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I think one of the more annoying considerations in a deal like this is that we don't get to mix and match parts, for the same price- but that's life.

From reading threads on this forum, it seems that the OEM water pump is good for up to 200,000 miles (at least some of them). It's interesting to me that the water pump bearing has such a high probability of lasting that long when the idler bearings are dropping out between 80k-120k miles. Since there's comparatively little 200k miles data to date, I'm betting the OEM pump will last, so I bought the kit sans water pump. I have no indication from Subaru that they have not sourced parts from multiple vendors, or have switched vendors for this pump, so don't have a way of assessing the quality of what I'd be buying, OEM or otherwise, at this point. If I lose the water pump, c'est la vie- inconvenience- likewise the idlers, unless one ignores the noise they make when they start to wear. Throwing the belt, however, could cost the engine, at any time.

Given that the idlers are giving out before the belt, I'm (comparatively) impressed with the Mitsuboshi belt, not because no one else can make a long-lasting belt, but because for the most part, we know what we've got with the Mitsuboshi.

I get concerned when threads turn to arguing with each other as opposed to expressing our views to help the OP.

Go OEM, or go home? Spare me, little subaru trooper.
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Old 04-06-2013, 07:40 PM   #14
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I ain't no little Subaru trooper. I'm an engineer in the auto industry, I know how things work. Look, parts sold to an OEM/OES (OES is dealer parts) are made with MUCH higher quality controls than parts sold to aftermarket. It's really expensive to perform the level of quality control required for OEM, so aftermarket companies don't always do it. This is true even for parts that are made by the same company.

Example, widget A has a very specific length requirement. 100% parts sent to OEM are checked for length, and the bad ones rejected before they are sent to the OEM. Aftermarket they don't check 100% if it's too expensive. They might check 10%.

In addition to that, there are teams of personnel at the OEM to check parts before they are shipped to the dealer.

Make your own decision, aftermarket parts are not bad, but you have a higher chance of getting a quality, trouble free, part by going to the dealer.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:15 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon117 View Post
...Look, parts sold to an OEM/OES (OES is dealer parts) are made with MUCH higher quality controls than parts sold to aftermarket. It's really expensive to perform the level of quality control required for OEM, so aftermarket companies don't always do it. This is true even for parts that are made by the same company.

Example, widget A has a very specific length requirement. 100% parts sent to OEM are checked for length, and the bad ones rejected before they are sent to the OEM. Aftermarket they don't check 100% if it's too expensive. They might check 10%.

In addition to that, there are teams of personnel at the OEM to check parts before they are shipped to the dealer.

Make your own decision, aftermarket parts are not bad, but you have a higher chance of getting a quality, trouble free, part by going to the dealer.
This is a much better read than "...or go home".

Last edited by 1x2; 04-07-2013 at 01:36 AM.
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Old 04-09-2013, 08:09 PM   #16
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....parts sold to an OEM/OES (OES is dealer parts) are made with MUCH higher quality controls than parts sold to aftermarket......
Take the replacement Subaru oil filter for example. The Subaru branded ones made by Purolator have a much higher bypass pop-off pressure than the Fram ones, also made by Purolator.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:35 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bacon117
I ain't no little Subaru trooper. I'm an engineer in the auto industry, I know how things work. Look, parts sold to an OEM/OES (OES is dealer parts) are made with MUCH higher quality controls than parts sold to aftermarket. It's really expensive to perform the level of quality control required for OEM, so aftermarket companies don't always do it. This is true even for parts that are made by the same company.

Example, widget A has a very specific length requirement. 100% parts sent to OEM are checked for length, and the bad ones rejected before they are sent to the OEM. Aftermarket they don't check 100% if it's too expensive. They might check 10%.

In addition to that, there are teams of personnel at the OEM to check parts before they are shipped to the dealer.

Make your own decision, aftermarket parts are not bad, but you have a higher chance of getting a quality, trouble free, part by going to the dealer.
Not to rain on your parade but from seeing what happens with controls from manufacturing. It's still possible for out of tolerance **** that should be inspected 200% get to customers. F-15's are not excluded here, since a coworker's wife was dealing with this issue last fall. Take the lovely oem "blue" fliter that is being recalled because of a leaky gasket. I've seen it in all the shops I've been in, you get low quality people who don't get a **** and don't check tolerances they should be. A lot of which trickles down to laziness or incompetence. I've even seen parts with inspected tolerances that were out get the approval and go out the door.

Done with my working with monkeys rank.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:35 PM   #18
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supreme Oppressor View Post
Take the replacement Subaru oil filter for example. The Subaru branded ones made by Purolator have a much higher bypass pop-off pressure than the Fram ones, also made by Purolator.
the off the shelf purolator L14460 has the same bypass pressure specified for Subaru. the other models don't. Fram is made by Honeywell, not Purolator.
Not sure what your supporting argument is about.
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