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Old 03-16-2009, 11:35 AM   #26
KNS Brakes
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I'm not sure the extra 'cooling time' makes any difference.

I assume the primary cooling occurs from air going through the rotor - which happens whether you are on or off the brakes.

If an average lap is 2 minutes - lets guess you are on the brakes for 20 of the 120 seconds. Do you think 19 or even 18 seconds would make much difference. I say you'll need date to back that up.

Not slowing down as much I think is the winner.

energy absorbed = 1/2mv^2 (vinitial-vfinal)

The squared term drives the equation - and if v final is higher - thumbs up.

To the OP running XP-8 - i think you are ready for the next level.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:35 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boost junkie View Post
and I also had to scrub off more speed since cornering speeds were lower than normal.
I think that's your answer
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:07 AM   #28
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Bringing this back from the dead. I was wondering if anyone has tried this idea yet? I searched and found nothing like this on a Subie . I found them on Audis, Porsches and this is a Mini Cooper. Seems like it would help with the problem of the tire hitting the hose.

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Old 12-23-2010, 08:48 AM   #29
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the backing plate or the lower control arm scoop?

The backing plates have been done and IIRC, there is a company that makes them. I think Dunk was running them, as he had done extensive work on brake cooling. Check out some of his threads.
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Old 12-23-2010, 11:03 AM   #30
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racecomp's new brake ducts are much nicer now too, and have an almost full backing plate type thing going on.

the lower scoop a few people have run. not sure how effective it is.
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Old 12-23-2010, 11:32 AM   #31
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Not the backing plate just the scoop. Seems like it should work pretty well. I'm just concerned about ground clearance issues.
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Old 12-23-2010, 11:57 AM   #32
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you shouldn't really have issues that close to the wheel, but you could fab up a bracket on the control arm so that you could bolt it on trackside while you are changing pads/ wheels if you are that concerned about it.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:05 PM   #33
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True. I thought about a bracket and some dzus fastners. Hey I was wondering if any of you guys could help me out with an argument I'm having with a friend. He keeps telling me if I'm worried about the hose rubbing the tire to just use a smaller hose. He said a 1.5'' hose would work just as well as a 3'' as long as the scoop or collector is the same size. I completly disagree with him but I was wondering if any of you have a diagram or some sort of fluid dynamics sketch showing how a smaller hose diameter would be less effective.
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:00 PM   #34
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Bump for any info
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Old 12-30-2010, 11:34 PM   #35
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Uhhhhh..... I've got physics if you want that form of machete for your intellectual thicket.

Total Volume = (Cross sectional area) x (Velocity) x (time)

Assuming the velocity and time remain constant, the cross sectional area (a function of the diameter), is the only determining factor.

The cross sectional area is equal to ∏r^2, So the cross sectional area of a 1.5" tube will be 1.75 square inches. The cross sectional area of a 3" tube will be about 7 square inches.

That means that, if just given the open end of the pipe as the collector, the 3" pipe will flow roughly 4 times more air at a given velocity over a given amount of time than the 1.5" tube.

Now, if the size of the collector remains the same for both, this will increase the velocity of the air in the smaller tube, thus increasing its flow. But this will also create a high pressure zone where the bottleneck is formed, and that will force a large amount of the air out of the collector and into the air stream around the car, making it useless. Taking all of this into account, the larger diameter tubing would still allow for much higher flow.

I'm not going to punch out all of the dynamics of it, but i would say that given the same size collector and a given speed, the 3" diameter tubing is going to flow over 2 times more air than the 1.5" tubing (any less-tired engineers out there can check it, but i'm just guesstimating). Note that it is not as simple as saying 3/1.5= 2. But it would definitely flow more air than the smaller tubing.

Hope you didn't get lost and that it was somewhat helpful.
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Old 12-31-2010, 12:32 AM   #36
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You sir are a to damn smart. I thank you for the info and I'm sure this will help settle the argument. Thnak you again.
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:52 PM   #37
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search. i know i saw one done. and it looked descnet from what i saw. pretty inexpensive too
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:02 PM   #38
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ha ha nice thread revival... telling someone to search in a thread a year old... but still good advice
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:19 AM   #39
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Going to bump this one myself. Have a nice DIY solution for the fronts. I'll try to post some pictures. Was wondering what if anything anyone had done for the backs.

We are racing a 99 Legacy Brighton in the 24 hours of LeMons on WRX 16s, I can't afford bigger/better so I have to try to cool them down more.

Cutting an opening in the rear strut tower or the like would be a no-no. They want the gas tank completely sealed off. There just doesn't seem to be much room to get a duct in there unless I come in from the back somehow.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:00 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicagozer View Post
Was wondering what if anything anyone had done for the backs.
There just doesn't seem to be much room to get a duct in there unless I come in from the back somehow.
I cannot find info on rear brake cooling. I guess it's not done? Not even ventilating the backing plate?
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