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Old 03-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #1
jacob80
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Member#: 162639
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nebraska
Default EJ207 Swap Checklist

Hey guys,

Just about ready to swap in my entire Version 8 EJ207 drivetrain this weekend into my 2002 USDM WRX. I want to run a couple things by everyone here to make sure I'm covering all my bases as far as what will be necessary to make this happen.

Here are the things I have on order:

*All parts are from a 2003 Version 8 car*
  • EJ207 Complete Engine
  • 6 Speed Trans
  • Hubs, Axles, Aluminum Control Arms, Front and Rear Subframes and Brembo Brakes on all four corners
  • Driveshafts
  • ECU
  • Intercooler
  • Steering Wheel
  • Gauge Cluster
  • Front strut tower bar

Photos: https://drive.google.com/#folders/0B...zFLN3FuNUdBUVk

Here are parts that I order separately that I know will be necessary to swap this bad boy in:
  • IA Performance Subaru AVCS Bulkhead Wiring Kit
  • GATES Engine Timing Belt Kit
  • Subaru (OEM) Thermostat
  • Shell Rotell T6 (5 quarts)
  • Genuine SUBARU OEM Long Life Engine Coolant Antifreeze & Conditioner
  • NGK Spark Plugs
  • Group N Transmission Mount
  • Group N Engine Mounts
  • Tactrix Cable and base map for a Version 8 pulled from RomRaider.com

Aside from that, I obviously have all the necessary tools for the job (engine hoist, wrenches, etc.), but I want to triple check that I'm covering all my bases. I also have a couple questions:
  1. Is the rear subframe a bolt-in affair? I'd rather just put the subframe, diff, axles, etc in as one if at all possible.
  2. Will the USDM ECU be of any use to me, or is the JDM ECU the only one that will work?
  3. Is the gauge cluster and steering wheel plug and play? I read something about the cruise control hole may not be present on the back side of the JDM wheel.
  4. Is it easier to pull the motor and then the transmission, or should I pull it all at once?
  5. Is there any parts/details/tips/tricks I should know about?

Your guys' help is much appreciated.

Thanks!
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Last edited by jacob80; 03-29-2013 at 01:27 AM.
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Old 03-26-2013, 09:15 AM   #2
jayman4312
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Member#: 228784
Join Date: Nov 2009
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chicago, IL
Vehicle:
2004 wrx
black, stage 2+

Default

Thats a cool cluster, same as my wrx but says sti instead of impreza.

That is all I have to add to this. Good luck!
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Old 03-26-2013, 02:56 PM   #3
Concillian
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Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX Sedan
Midnight Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacob80 View Post
Aside from that, I obviously have all the necessary tools for the job (engine hoist, wrenches, etc.), but I want to triple check that I'm covering all my bases. I also have a couple questions:
  1. Is the rear subframe a bolt-in affair? I'd rather just put the subframe, diff, axles, etc in as one if at all possible.
  2. Will the USDM ECU be of any use to me, or is the JDM ECU the only one that will work?
  3. Is the gauge cluster and steering wheel plug and play? I read something about the cruise control hole may not be present on the back side of the JDM wheel.
  4. Is it easier to pull the motor and then the transmission, or should I pull it all at once?
  5. Is there any parts/details/tips/tricks I should know about?

Your guys' help is much appreciated.

Thanks!

1) I don't know
2) Some people have had issues with the JDM ECU and their state inspection. Keep it around in case you do.
3) I don't know
4) Easier to separate. You can pull both, it will fit, but it's a very tight fit, and it's easier to pull the motor and take the tranny from underneath... if you have a tranny jack. If you take them out together, take off the exhaust manifold for extra clearange
5) when de-pinning the ECU, the individual pin locks needs to be pried in the opposite direction of the large full connector lock. Push the wire forward as far as it will go, stick in your pick / awl / T-pin, pry the lock away, and you should be able to pull the wire out with minimal force. If your setup comes with an ECU harness practice de-pinning on that before messing with the harness in your car.
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Old 03-27-2013, 04:48 PM   #4
skep18
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Member#: 214971
Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: TN
Vehicle:
2014 WRX
DGM

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacob80 View Post
  1. Is the rear subframe a bolt-in affair? I'd rather just put the subframe, diff, axles, etc in as one if at all possible.
  2. Will the USDM ECU be of any use to me, or is the JDM ECU the only one that will work?
  3. Is the gauge cluster and steering wheel plug and play? I read something about the cruise control hole may not be present on the back side of the JDM wheel.
  4. Is it easier to pull the motor and then the transmission, or should I pull it all at once?
  5. Is there any parts/details/tips/tricks I should know about?
1. Yes, I believe it is. While I have not done this swap myself, the swap I am doing illustrates subframes as having the same mounting points. May want someone else to verify, but 92-07, as far as I know, the majority of the chassis points are the same.

2. What Concillian said. I have no experience here.

3. Dunno what car this is going into, but odds are if people aren't majorly complaining about it on all the searching you've done since you're at the point of purchasing everything, it's probably nothing you can't manage if you have the technical know-how to swap a car.

4. I removed my old engine and trans as one by lowering it onto a rolling platform and raising the car on jack stands and pushing everything out from under the car. Worked out quite well. You're even able to leave the struts, hubs, axles, everything attached as a whole while it comes out. People have also managed to install and uninstall the whole ordeal by pulling it out of the hood as one piece (engine and trans attached), but Idk what you have to remove.

Example of lifting car over engine/trans:





5. Tape off and label all electrical plugs. Even take photos. Take photos of everything. Put nuts and bolts in labeled baggies or cups or something. Take you're time. When you get frustrated that something won't come loose, don't ignore you're instinct and do something stupid resulting in a sheared bolt head or broken plastic duct, etc. Did I mention take lots of photos? That's a biggie. Oh, and have a friend help for sure.

Different application, same theory. Read this guy's thread. Very detailed and again, same jist.

RS25 - Meet Mysti, Mykul's complete '07 STI swapped RS Sedan - Stage 2 / 20PSI / ~280WHP

Last edited by skep18; 03-27-2013 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:14 AM   #5
humboldt2.5rex
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Member#: 192264
Join Date: Oct 2008
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Land of the trees, Humboldt Co
Vehicle:
2001 2.5RS
Sedona Red Pearl

Default

What car are you swapping into? Fill out your page info. That will change a lot with how involved the swap is- I have a 01 2.5rs coupe w full ver 8 swap, all done myself so feel free to ask away.

1- yes easiest way is to drop entire rear frame as an assembly and putting the ver 8 in its place. The e-brake cables can be left on the car and simply hooked up to the brembos for ease. Get every single bolt started before tightening and torquing, if you don't you will run into problems with fitment.

2- so jdm ver 7,8 and (maybe not sure) 9 ej207s have the same ecu pinout as the USDM 2002 wrx minus the avcs wiring (I see the avcs wiring on list so dealt with?). you can have a tuner flash a tune to a wrx ecu to get around smog if you have that in Nebraska. Also remember that Japanese gas quality is better so 93oct is the lowest recommended on the stock jdm tune, again not sure about your romraider map.

3- need to know what your car is for the cluster but yes the wheel should fit but yes the wipers/cruise are opposite on rhd cars so possible fitment issues

4- I find it easier and quicker if pulling both engine and trans to do it at the same time, just pull the radiator since unless this is goin in an sti you need to upgrade the radiator anyway. Choosing to drop or pick the engine is up to you, if you have access to a lift the way skep shows is fastest, in a garage I'd lift it out then drop the cradle after.

5- downpipe- jdm ver 8+ turbos are twinscroll so have a different flange pattern than any USDM turbos so you will need a matching jdm oem or aftermarket downpipe. With this the jdm downpipes are shorter by 4ish inches so you will need to lengthen it, make a section to take up the space, or buy a jdm exhaust.

-fuel pump- needs to be upgraded to either sti spec or walboro 255 or equivalent.

There is more but I'm tired and can't think. 916 212 2111 text w questions/ pics if you have any questions, might have an answer.... Lars
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:28 AM   #6
jacob80
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 162639
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nebraska
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skep18 View Post
1. Yes, I believe it is. While I have not done this swap myself, the swap I am doing illustrates subframes as having the same mounting points. May want someone else to verify, but 92-07, as far as I know, the majority of the chassis points are the same.

2. What Concillian said. I have no experience here.

3. Dunno what car this is going into, but odds are if people aren't majorly complaining about it on all the searching you've done since you're at the point of purchasing everything, it's probably nothing you can't manage if you have the technical know-how to swap a car.

4. I removed my old engine and trans as one by lowering it onto a rolling platform and raising the car on jack stands and pushing everything out from under the car. Worked out quite well. You're even able to leave the struts, hubs, axles, everything attached as a whole while it comes out. People have also managed to install and uninstall the whole ordeal by pulling it out of the hood as one piece (engine and trans attached), but Idk what you have to remove.

Example of lifting car over engine/trans:





5. Tape off and label all electrical plugs. Even take photos. Take photos of everything. Put nuts and bolts in labeled baggies or cups or something. Take you're time. When you get frustrated that something won't come loose, don't ignore you're instinct and do something stupid resulting in a sheared bolt head or broken plastic duct, etc. Did I mention take lots of photos? That's a biggie. Oh, and have a friend help for sure.

Different application, same theory. Read this guy's thread. Very detailed and again, same jist.

RS25 - Meet Mysti, Mykul's complete '07 STI swapped RS Sedan - Stage 2 / 20PSI / ~280WHP
This is going into a 2002 WRX (USDM), sorry, forgot to mention this! Dropping everything would be ideal except for the fact that I don't have a lift. I notice you don't either, and you're just using jackstands. Did you just leave the back wheels on the ground and jack the front up really high with a floor jack? I'm replacing the motor, trans, front control arms, hubs, etc (whole version 8 package), so I think this would make things so much easier. Man, that would be slick!!
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Old 04-03-2013, 12:14 PM   #7
jacob80
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Member#: 162639
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Nebraska
Default

Turns out dropping the motor out from the bottom is not as easy as I had first thought, but it was definitely convenient to have everything out all at once. Long as you have a couple people helping you, it is possible. Putting the motor in was a snap when I put the motor THEN trans in. Very easy.
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Old 04-04-2013, 10:27 AM   #8
Vlad
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Member#: 46135
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:
02 WRX
Sti V9 Spec C

Default

The V8 cluster may not be the best fit for you.
I would sell that and go with a 2004 USDM Sti cluster, that's guaranteed to not turn on the ABS light.

Then you will only begin doing the work, if you're like me and need to have every option functional.
Your 2002 WRX is only partially prewired for outside temperature sensor, then you have to wire for the rear diff and buy the sensor, deal with the grounding issue, wire the intercooler spray low light, etcetc..

Oh and with your V8 6 speed, you may have a dccd, so you may want to look into the DCCD connections, in case you can't touch them, once the transmission is up.

Keep the USDM for state insp.

The V8 steering wheel you'd have to keep the bag and swap the inflator.
There have been many that have done this hybrid, but obviously, nobody has tested this.
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