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Old 03-04-2013, 11:32 PM   #76
Tucci139
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Don't know how to post an email here - probably not a good idea because of those who spam emails. But, the email was from Kim Cordell at calibertrailers.com

I'm sure the shipping weight has to be more though to cover blocking and jigs for fitting multiple units on a larger tractor trailer for shipping. The weight after we get it is what you said, didn't think of the shipping extra pieces. He said this was the "shipped" weight.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:43 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastie View Post
Confirmed if anyone is following this thread that Caliber emailed me with shipping weight on their 18ft wood deck trailer is 1700 lbs - lighter by about 300-400 lbs from other steel trailers, but they probably made some mods since "vision.dynamic" got his. And, they added in their email - no dealers in my area so I would have to travel to get one. I have a lead on a aluminum trailer so I may go against the grain anyway if the price is right. we'll see. Next choice is used steel or if I need buy new to a Bri-Mar. Mav1c if yours hasn't sold - let me know.
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Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
Hmm..interesting. I bought mine last year, and scaled it at 13xxlbs. Wonder what the discrepancy is..not like thats any packing material with shipping a trailer.
Im a retard. Just looked at the scale slip..1610lbs empty.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:49 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
Im a retard. Just looked at the scale slip..1610lbs empty.
i thought 1300 lbs for a full deck was awfully light since mine is a bare bones split deck at that weight....still, at least they aint 2500lbs....so as long as you have a tow rating of about 5k you can tow pretty much anything you need (race car wise)
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:09 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
Im a retard. Just looked at the scale slip..1610lbs empty.
Thanks for checking - if someone follows this thread in the future it will help. Turns out Caliber is too far for me and no leads followed-up from this thread so I think a Bri-mar maybe my pick. Still waiting on a used Aluminum if I can find it - but probably not going to happen. I like the fact that most Aluminum trailers use the torsion flex instead of the leaf spring design.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:24 PM   #80
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Default Update to Trailer thread for Impreza

Today I visited Trailer Enterprises in Hagerstown, MD. I have to say that these folks were very nice and had lots of great information on the Bri-Mar trailers. The price has gone up a bit since the original post on this thread - the Open 18ft trailer is now $3295 and the 16ft is $3195. The trailer I liked was the 18 ft closed deck for $3650. It has many good features over the other steel brand trailers I have seen - these are sort of a premium built steel trailer. I did see a unique wood deck trailer that tilted - non-hydraulic but it was only 16 ft and did not have removable fenders unfortunately. Very nice idea though with the tilting feature.

One thing that struck me was the size of an 18ft trailer - it just looked huge compared to our car. I am not sure my Silverado will be too happy pulling this since I just have the base model work truck.

Also, the wood deck trailer was $3450 and it seemed nice with the dove portion made from steel and the main deck wood. Going to look at Featherlite before I decide - but these are some nice trailers -- also still scanning for a used trailer.

Between this and getting a roll bar - this hobby is sure expensive if you let it. My son and I talked about the GRM $2K Lemons race and said - maybe we should do that instead!
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:23 PM   #81
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your silverado will be fine. we've used everything from a grand marquis to a 4 cylinder ranger to dually's (cummins ram actually gets the best fuel milage towing it.) and all have towed it fine.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:41 PM   #82
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That's good to hear Trailer Enterprises in Hagerstown is a good business. Also looking into trailers and spotted them on this here Interwebs. BriMar is top of my list.
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Old 03-09-2013, 06:50 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastie View Post
One thing that struck me was the size of an 18ft trailer - it just looked huge compared to our car. I am not sure my Silverado will be too happy pulling this since I just have the base model work truck.
Ive towed cross country round trip twice and a bunch of trips down the east coast in a Tacoma. Your Silveraro will be fine.
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Old 03-10-2013, 01:01 PM   #84
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The longer the rig the more stable it'll be going down the road. I notice a significant difference between a double cab long bed Tacoma and an access cab Tacoma pulling the same trailer and racecar.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:05 PM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
The longer the rig the more stable it'll be going down the road. I notice a significant difference between a double cab long bed Tacoma and an access cab Tacoma pulling the same trailer and racecar.
Rigging for the 7 pin connector - what brake controller should I purchase? Any opinions of what works well?
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:09 PM   #86
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I use the Hopkins Agility from AutoZone. $99.

One of the trucks I borrowed had a Tekonsha Prodigy 2 that was also good. It's like $140 from eTrailer.

Just get a proportional based controller, not time delay.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:54 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
The longer the rig the more stable it'll be going down the road. I notice a significant difference between a double cab long bed Tacoma and an access cab Tacoma pulling the same trailer and racecar.
What did you tow with a Tacoma? I was under the impression that it has a 3500lb tow rating.
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Old 03-10-2013, 03:58 PM   #88
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What did you tow with a Tacoma? I was under the impression that it has a 3500lb tow rating.
Look at post 54.

Look up specs. V6 with factory tow package is rated for 6500#
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:55 PM   #89
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I am going to order the Prodigy 2 - thanks and some tow straps. Hey Vision - I got a quote on the trailer from Bri-mar and I liked the Featherlite - but just think its a bit pricey at $6120 locally. Attached is the pic for the wood deck Bri-Mar - what do you think compared to what you bought? For $4100 - I can get this, with upgrades on 4 aluminum wheels and radial tires instead of the standard tires, and a winch plate - figured I could get a storage box later for cheaper. Amazing how I can't find any used trailers - craiglist, ebay, etc.. seems like they go very fast. See pic attached - wood deck saves me about $200 over steel deck and I can apply savings to getting the better wheels and tires - which I want due to my experience with cheap tires on a boat trailer - I asked for this - they did not try to push me to get this upgrade. Anyway - do you still think wood deck is the way to go?
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:01 PM   #90
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That Brimar looks good. $4100 is quite a bit more than mine was, even considering the Aluminum wheels. MAKE SURE YOU GET A SPARE TIRE!

I will stick with my decision on a full wood deck for sure. I'd honestly skip the Alu wheels if it were me.

Its hard to find used car trailers that are worth a damn/worth the savings over a new one.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:35 PM   #91
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Yeah - prices went up for sure. Yes - getting a spare through etrailer as well to save a few bucks - also will be seeing if dealer will allow me to order trailer with no tires/wheels - maybe able to save a bit more - we'll see. I'll post some pics and summarize for future readers of this post - thanks again for all the advice.
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Old 03-10-2013, 05:36 PM   #92
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My dealer sells spares for $100..theyre take-offs from people who upgrade to Alloys.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:20 PM   #93
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http://www.appalachiantrailers.com/c...r-trailers.php

I'm going with these guys when i go to get my trailer later this spring. My dad had a few of their trailers and they have worked well. And at 3k for a 18 ft professional with steel deck cheap too.
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Old 03-10-2013, 06:23 PM   #94
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http://www.appalachiantrailers.com/c...r-trailers.php

I'm going with these guys when i go to get my trailer later this spring. My dad had a few of their trailers and they have worked well. And at 3k for a 18 ft professional with steel deck cheap too.
Those cheaters extend the deck 2' into the A Frame tongue and call a 16' trailer an 18'er.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:15 PM   #95
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Default Made a purchase

Well, thought I would update the folks who gave me tips and suggestions. I finally bought a trailer and luckily the craiglist site came through. Glad I waited and think I got a good deal for a used trailer although I had to travel about 1 hour away. It's a 2013 and yes - its used. Owner bought last fall for a car show in OC and used it once - he says 500 miles on it total. Condition looks new and tires are perfect (wait until they see the mud this weekend )

I had decided on the half wood deck version from Bri-Mar, but this deal was too good to pass up. My recommendations to others reading through this post like I did - is patience pays and you save thousands on a used trailer as long as your careful with the condition.

The model I got is a Quality trailer (yep, I never heard of it either) I looked it up and its made in Ohio. I spoke to the manufacturer and they seem knowledgeable and on par with the other smaller manufacturers out there. Anyway, it turns out a local dealer in MD sells them and that is where it was purchased from - previous owner gave me a copy of the receipt - he was very honest and just awesome to work with. Yup I was very lucky and so far the trailer seems fine.

So, its a Quality trailer, 18 ft., steel deck and it is rated at 8K pounds with 4K axles and 225 tires. Larger brakes so yes its overkill for what I need, but allows me to add storage to the trailer later if I want to. My son and I look forward to breaking it in (hopefully not literarally) this weekend.

So, now I am scouring the sites on tips for strapping down our car - we have skid plates so it will be interesting since I know front two car tow hooks are probably covered. So, either strap to wheels or suspension somehow? Anyway - we never stop learning do we.

Thanks again everyone - now we need a thread on rigging a trailer for an Impreza.
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Old 03-20-2013, 11:43 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vision.dynamix View Post
This is the Caliber trailer I bought. 18x7' Deck, Electric Trailer Brakes on both axles, 1300lbs empty, 7000 GVWR, $2500 OTD with a Spare Tire.


With the Rallycross car loaded. My D-rings are 1' from the ends of the trailer, meaning they'd be at the end of the trailer if the trailer were a 16' trailer. Notice how in the front, the ratchets are UNDER the front bumper. For the rear, I use an axle strap around the knuckle (NOT THE LATERAL LINK) Im going to move the D-Rings to the ends of the trailer this summer when I paint the wood with sanded paint.




This was a borrowed 18' trailer with the tie down hooks at the very front and back of the trailer. Notice the nice cross angle I got, the good amount of lenght and the amount of space I had to work. I was even able to use the tie-down points on the rear of the chassis.



Here is a borrowed 16' trailer with the tie down hooks at the very front and back of the trailer. The Front Tie Downs are designed at the corner of the front cross member and the deck. I had to pull the car up so the bumper was over these (to get the proper tongue weight), so I couldnt even use them. How I had them hooked to the frame was honestly kinda sketchy. In the rear I couldve gotten the proper angle hooking to the rear tie-downs on the chassis (like on the above trailer) had I had the right hooks to do so. This trailer wouldn't've been so bad if the axles were positioned towards the back a little more.



To summarize, you may not need the deck length for the car itself, but having the deck length makes strapping the car down so much easier.
You all gave me good suggestions already on tie-down points - I told you this thread is a great resource - how quickly I forgot!
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:21 PM   #97
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Someone has pointed out that this is very good info that more people could benefit from. Is there a particular forum you guys would have looked in to find this that we can sticky this in so it's easier to find.

And if we can come to a good consensus on that forum choice can a mod with the privilege go ahead and move it there and stick it.

Thanks.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:24 PM   #98
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The motor sports forum has this kind of info spread out all over it. The newbie forum or general would be where I would put this thread. I've posted everything I posted here over there a few times in various threads
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:26 PM   #99
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Hmmm... we'll try it here... maybe a link from those two might not be a bad idea though.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:29 PM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fastie View Post
You all gave me good suggestions already on tie-down points - I told you this thread is a great resource - how quickly I forgot!
I've always tied down to control arms in the front (using axle straps) and the stock tie-down points in the rear. I strap tight enough to load the rear suspension.
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