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Old 02-25-2013, 10:19 AM   #26
xluben
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Sorry, I haven't had a chance to install it yet. Hopefully soon.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:21 AM   #27
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The DCCD controller is finally in. In parking lot testing I can tell it's definitely doing it's thing, but I haven't had a chance to push it real hard yet. When I was running it open the car would definitely get squirrely on the highway if I put the power down. The controller does a good job of keeping the power in check. Here are some more photos and info on the install. It was quite a bit of work to do all the wiring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
As an update, I did install mine. Most of the stuff that I feel should have been pre-wired to work, had to be re-wired. Ended up taking a couple hours extra (taking my time and trying to do it all properly). Here are some photos:

This is how it looks from DCCD Pro:



The suggested mounting location for the box is on the beam in the knee area under the driver's side dash (under the steering wheel). With the box in this location the DCCD switches are probably ~6" short from reaching the cutouts in the 08+ center console. I'm guessing they probably do reach on the older models. The bare wires are also a bit too short to reach the ECU and the DCCD solenoid on the tranny.

Here are some of the photos I took while I was modifying things:

The photo below shows how I cut the casing back about 6" on the bare wires. This is because the power/ground go the opposite direction from the e-brake, TPS, and DCCD wires, and splitting them off sooner would give me a little more to work with. I added a piece of heat shrink to seal the casing just like it comes from DCCD Pro. It ended up not really helping enough in all cases, but more on that further down.

Next I added in about a foot of cable inline with the DCCD switches. I unscrewed the terminal blocks and soldered on the extensions there. The wire I added has the blue casing. I reused the terminal blocks even though I'm not a big fan. But if that's how it comes from DCCD Pro then it will hopefully be good enough. I'd love to see socketed connectors coming out of the box itself. Note that I did put a larger heat shrink over these soldered connections. You can see it in subsequent photos.



This photo shows the other ends of the extensions. They are bare wires that have been tinned and heat shrunk around the casing. These are inserted into the terminal blocks.



Here's the wiring prior to attaching the switches:



Here is the full assembly:



I did have to solder one of the existing wires back onto the connector inside the DCCD switch. The solder joint from DCCD Pro broke off during handling. Soldering these is quite difficult, but apparently it is very hard to acquire the other side of the connector, so there isn't much of any other option.

I did not take any other install photos, but I did find that the wire to the ECU was not long enough and had to extend that one by about a foot as well. The wire to the e-brake was fine. The wire to the accel sensor was fine. The wires to the DCCD solenoid on the tranny will not reach all the way to the solenoid, but if you clip the wires for the solenoid a bit further away, then you do have room to connect to the wires from the DCCD Pro.

Overall it was quite an extensive install. I find electrical work takes a long time, and this was no exception. The most frustrating part was that a huge portion of my work could have been avoided if the DCCD Pro simply came with 1 ft longer wires. This would take zero extra time/effort for them to do and would have a very minimal cost impact.

Here are some shots in the cabin:







So far, so good. I haven't pushed it hard, but I have done some parking lot testing of the manual open/lock vs. auto vs. e-brake pulled and all of those functions do seem to be working great. I will have to push the car a bit more to get into playing with the auto setting. I just have it in the middle for now.
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Old 04-06-2013, 04:25 PM   #28
binjoau
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Posting to remember this thread
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:56 AM   #29
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im in the process of doing my 6mt swap into my 06 wrx. when you say you drove with the front diff "open", did the tranny just go to stock ratio of 35/65? and did it buck at all at full wheel lock when turning without the dccdpro?
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:21 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luc r View Post
im in the process of doing my 6mt swap into my 06 wrx. when you say you drove with the front diff "open", did the tranny just go to stock ratio of 35/65? and did it buck at all at full wheel lock when turning without the dccdpro?
The front diff is a LSD on the 6 speed. It was not left open (it is mechanical). The center diff was left open. On my tranny it is a 41/59 split (but when it is open and there is wheelspin it will vary from that split).

Now that the DCCD Pro is installed it can buck/bind if you lock the diff (as expected), but if you run the DCCD Pro in one of auto settings then there is not any binding.
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Old 04-09-2013, 10:46 AM   #31
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i love your write up threads ben. so thorough.
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:13 PM   #32
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Andrewtech did the tranny repairs/build etc?
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Old 04-12-2013, 10:49 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregnauman View Post
Andrewtech did the tranny repairs/build etc?
Andrewtech has answered some of my questions along the way bit they have not done any of the work on my car. The tranny was rebuilt by RalliTech and installed by myself and NF Performance.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:25 AM   #34
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Thanks for your posts as always xluben,

something I wanted to clarify, you said for our cars 08+ if we went with 04-05 trans we could use our axles and diff so all we need is the AT drive shaft on top of the trans and linkages?
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Old 04-15-2013, 05:26 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itoen View Post
Thanks for your posts as always xluben,

something I wanted to clarify, you said for our cars 08+ if we went with 04-05 trans we could use our axles and diff so all we need is the AT drive shaft on top of the trans and linkages?
It has to be a later model 04 with the male axles and female tranny (no stubs). Other than that all of the things you need are listed right at the beginning of the first post.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:40 PM   #36
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I put in an STI driveshaft, R180 and STI rear axles last night. Pictures coming sometime soon.
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:49 PM   #37
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nice!
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Old 04-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #38
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Here are a few. More to come.





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Old 04-28-2013, 03:09 PM   #39
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Thx for the pics, don't get to see the WRX vs STI parts back to back like that too often
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:29 PM   #40
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the sti rear axles fit in the wrx hubs? curious just want to know all the ins and outs of this swap.
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Old 04-28-2013, 10:44 PM   #41
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluemax189 View Post
the sti rear axles fit in the wrx hubs? curious just want to know all the ins and outs of this swap.
Yeah, direct plug and play. I'll try to get more info up soon.
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Old 04-29-2013, 08:56 AM   #42
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thats really weird.

a guy on WRX tuners put the r180 on his 08 and he needed to use a hybrid axle to get it to work.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:07 AM   #43
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
thats really weird.

a guy on WRX tuners put the r180 on his 08 and he needed to use a hybrid axle to get it to work.
monkiboy has a narrow body 08-10 WRX. He uses the hybrid axles for the shorter bar. The 11+ WRX is wider, and as you can see from the above photos, the axles are nearly identical in length to the 08+ STI.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:51 AM   #44
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hmm, i didnt think length was the issue. i thought it had to do with the different splines between the 100 and 114 hubs.

so since the WRX and STi from 08-13 shares the same rear suspension (dimensionally), the extra axle length comes SOLELY from the hub being pushed out further in the knuckle? everything ive read says that all the suspension links are the same size/length between 08-13 wrx and sti. same LCAs, same Toe inks, same UCAs.
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:53 AM   #45
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
hmm, i didnt think length was the issue. i thought it had to do with the different splines between the 100 and 114 hubs.

so since the WRX and STi from 08-13 shares the same rear suspension (dimensionally), the extra axle length comes SOLELY from the hub being pushed out further in the knuckle? everything ive read says that all the suspension links are the same size/length between 08-13 wrx and sti. same LCAs, same Toe inks, same UCAs.
No, he used the hybrid setup simply due to the length. He used he 08+ STI outers, so the hubs weren't an issue on his car either. I can't confirm the length of the 08-10 WRX, but as you can see above, the 11+ WRX is basically identical in length to the 08+ STI. I'm working on getting the rest of the photos up now.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:19 AM   #46
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R180 Rear Diff, STI Driveshaft, and STI Axles into an 11+ WRX



Parts List:
3.54 R180 Rear Diff (compatible with my 2011 STI transmission)
08+ STI Driveshaft
08+ STI Rear Axles

As long as you get the correct R180 to match your final drive, all of this is a direct swap in for the 11+ WRX (widebody). The axle length, hub splines, etc are all the same. The 08-10 WRX (narrow body) has shorter axles so a hybrid axle set up is required. Here are some photos of the parts compared to the WRX parts.

Driveshaft:







This is the STI driveshaft (top) compared the stock WRX driveshaft (bottom). I was using the 08+ AT driveshaft with my 6 speed swap, but it looks identical to the WRX shaft, except it is a hair shorter. It is hard to tell in the photos, but the STI shaft is much, much beefier than the WRX or AT shaft. It also has an extra u-joint.

R180 Rear Diff:









This is a 3.54 R160 compared to a 3.54 R180. The R180 is quite a bit larger. The splines/seals/mounting points are all the same. I did remove the rear diff temp sensor from the R180 and install a simple plug from an R160, and I also had to swap the longer studs onto the R180. Depending on what year R180 you get will determine if you have to do this or not.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:19 AM   #47
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Axles:









As you can see, the overall lengths are very similar. The STI axles are beefier everywhere (innner CV, outer CV, shaft, etc). The spline counts are are compatible with the WRX hubs. Everything bolts right up! Makes it a pretty simple swap.

Assembled:









Here are a few photos of everything connected together side by side. With this swap you shouldn't have any problems. I dropped my rear end out and the axles came out of the hubs without any issues (impact driver to remove the axle nuts). Everything goes back in just like the stuff that was coming out.

Typical used prices on these parts are as follows:

R180 Rear Diff: $400-500
08+ STI Rear Axles: $300-400 (can be hard to find)
08+ STI Driveshaft: $100-200 (can be hard to find)

The 08+ stuff can be a bit harder to find, but the longer time goes on, the more it will start popping up used. If you do enough searching you should be able to beat these prices, but if you just go on eBay and buy what's out there, I think that's about what you'll pay.

Overall it's a simple swap and I am sure it will be more robust than the WRX parts. I just hope it's strong enough to handle a few launches in my car
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Old 04-29-2013, 07:11 PM   #48
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Are you going to swap over (or did you) the longer studs from the R160 to the R180?

I'm guessing that R180 didn't come out of a GR with the short studs.

Edit. Yes I see you did. Missed that.
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Old 04-29-2013, 09:44 PM   #49
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gsrcrxsi View Post
Are you going to swap over (or did you) the longer studs from the R160 to the R180?

I'm guessing that R180 didn't come out of a GR with the short studs.

Edit. Yes I see you did. Missed that.
Yeah, I noted that in the text. You do need to do that, but the plus side is that it's way easier to install on the newer models without that huge bracket. I have about 5 diff's now, and two sets of the longer studs so I just swap them around as needed. It's not too hard.
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Old 05-01-2013, 06:26 PM   #50
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so you initially ran the car without dccd (open center). is that safe and can the dccdpro not be installed at all?
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