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Old 04-11-2013, 03:38 PM   #26
Rymaster
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Just busy honestly but as soon as the semester lets out putting everything on.

Been collecting a few other small parts too, just recently got my new valvebody back from IPT as well, final piece of the puzzle for now.

Tuner didn't mention anything about step colder plugs and from what I've read, everyone says go with what the tuner prefers at times. Should I go step colder? Seeing how rule of thumb is one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase, I probably should grab a pair of those as well.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:28 PM   #27
AK907TRE
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Originally Posted by Rymaster View Post
Not from what I've read.
The intake will be off anyways so might as well address the recall issue at the same time.
in that same book, id consider an oil pickup replacement such as the killer b oil pickup with an sti oil pan.. A problem I believe subaru never addressed was that the oil pickup tube could break or crack, making it so that the oil could not get to the motor.. kerBOOM.

when we install my pile of parts this will also be addressed so my hard earned project does NOT fail due to a stupid design flaw. This has been confirmed by my mechanic, who is a licensed and fully trained Subaru technician. I didnt know if you knew, so im making sure you do cause im bored. best of luck with your build.
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:27 PM   #28
get'erdone
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Originally Posted by Rymaster View Post
Just busy honestly but as soon as the semester lets out putting everything on.

Been collecting a few other small parts too, just recently got my new valvebody back from IPT as well, final piece of the puzzle for now.

Tuner didn't mention anything about step colder plugs and from what I've read, everyone says go with what the tuner prefers at times. Should I go step colder? Seeing how rule of thumb is one heat range colder for every 75100hp you increase, I probably should grab a pair of those as well.
Understood. Two tuners I worked with confirmed recommendation of the plugs. They're an easy change as you have things torn apart to access them anyway.

FYI If you buy an unpainted scoop it's easy to find matching paint and clear coat in a spray can from Sherwin Williams (that has the auto sprays) or online. Results were good in my case--a small part.
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Old 04-12-2013, 01:48 AM   #29
Rymaster
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Duly noted, thanks guys!

I'll be sure to chime in with any other concerns/issues I have along the way
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:51 AM   #30
HinshawWRX
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fuel rails are must for stage 3?
Not at all. Some say the stock rails are good for 500 whp, others slightly less. You could always modify stock to become "parallel" rails for about 40 bucks.
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Old 05-26-2013, 12:37 AM   #31
Rymaster
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Does anyone know if I technically need to "re-tune" for an upgraded Valve body(IPT)?
And the car will still run fine on a step colder plugs for a bit without a re-tune too, wont it?

Looking at putting this in the car first if I can still drive around with it in, without hurting anything, before I completely tear it apart.
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Old 05-27-2013, 04:35 PM   #32
Impreza WR Rex
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The only reason I mentioned fuel rails is because of the recall issued for my year WRX, which has issues with a leaking fuel rail in cold weather. The intake will be off anyways so might as well address the recall issue at the same time.
I had this leak. The car smelled like gas after I started it - especially when it was cold outside. You will know if you have it. Easiest thing to do is replace the one line that is the source of the problem with a longer hose. I just tore everything out and converted to parallel rails.
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Old 05-27-2013, 05:18 PM   #33
Shibby99RS
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Subaru had a repair kit for the "raw fuel smell" issue. I can't remember the part# off hand but it includes new hard lines (that run under manifold) and 3 new rubber fuel lines, and gaskets. Cost was like $36 or something. From what I read it's not so much the fuel rails themselves leaking but the fuel lines under the manifold.
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Old 05-27-2013, 08:16 PM   #34
Impreza WR Rex
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Originally Posted by Shibby99RS View Post
Subaru had a repair kit for the "raw fuel smell" issue. I can't remember the part# off hand but it includes new hard lines (that run under manifold) and 3 new rubber fuel lines, and gaskets. Cost was like $36 or something. From what I read it's not so much the fuel rails themselves leaking but the fuel lines under the manifold.
yeah one of the lines contracts when cold and some fuel leaks out. a longer rubber hose is all that's needed to correct the problem.
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