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Old 03-22-2013, 10:21 AM   #101
Commander Keen
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I thought he was talking about reprogramming the CVT.

You might be able to wring out a few more horses with a premium fuel tune, but I doubt there's much more power to be had without turning a wrench.

The variable valve timing in our cars means we can have that race cam without giving up fuel economy.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:39 PM   #102
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Picked up my MT Impreza about a week and a half ago. Sometimes I'm able to shift smooth, other times not so much. I think I'm still applying some habits I developed over 6 years of driving the Tacoma.

I have found as many here said, it seems like it likes to shift between at least 3-3.5k. The shift between 1st and 2nd is frequently my most awkward. Not really a problem, just not real smooth. I'm also still getting used to the clutch engagement point. Sometimes I'm able to start out very smoothly, other times not so much. I didn't realize how the hill start assist worked for a while until I got to that part of the manual. Now I'm leveraging that. I like it on the steep hills, but it's kind of a hindrance on light grades. I've noticed it occasionally still holding on for just a moment while I'm trying to move forward.

I just passed 1000 miles this morning or maybe yesterday. As others have said, I feel like I'm abusing the engine if I wind it out too much, but I realize it's designed for that. Dropping to third at high speeds feels like I'd be asking for trouble, but fourth has very little torque.

I'm doing pretty good in terms of fuel efficiency. I filled up on Sunday which was the first tank I was able to do a true hand calc on. It came out at 32.4 mpg, with the computer reading 33.9. So far if the computer is any indication, I'm headed toward a similar or higher number on the current tank.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:06 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PA452 View Post
Picked up my MT Impreza about a week and a half ago. Sometimes I'm able to shift smooth, other times not so much. I think I'm still applying some habits I developed over 6 years of driving the Tacoma.

I have found as many here said, it seems like it likes to shift between at least 3-3.5k. The shift between 1st and 2nd is frequently my most awkward. Not really a problem, just not real smooth. I'm also still getting used to the clutch engagement point. Sometimes I'm able to start out very smoothly, other times not so much. I didn't realize how the hill start assist worked for a while until I got to that part of the manual. Now I'm leveraging that. I like it on the steep hills, but it's kind of a hindrance on light grades. I've noticed it occasionally still holding on for just a moment while I'm trying to move forward.

I just passed 1000 miles this morning or maybe yesterday. As others have said, I feel like I'm abusing the engine if I wind it out too much, but I realize it's designed for that. Dropping to third at high speeds feels like I'd be asking for trouble, but fourth has very little torque.

I'm doing pretty good in terms of fuel efficiency. I filled up on Sunday which was the first tank I was able to do a true hand calc on. It came out at 32.4 mpg, with the computer reading 33.9. So far if the computer is any indication, I'm headed toward a similar or higher number on the current tank.

Consider swapping out the front differential/transmission fluid (same case) to synthetic (I used Amsoil Severe Gear), and a short shifter or the Perrin adapter (that I have).

Both of these mods are fairly inexpensive and make a big difference in the feel and smoothness of the transmission. The synthetic fluid change seemed to make it both shift better and also reduce the occasional trouble engaging reverse gear (all my opinion, one person here did the Amsoil change and noticed zilch, I think it made a big difference). Now that you have 1,000 miles or so it will shift better anyway, it takes a while to break in the clutch.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:32 PM   #104
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Yeah, a lot of those miles are highway miles cruising in 5th. I have a 32 mile one way commute to work, with about 20 of those miles being major highway and about 10 being city.

I've noticed a lot of posts mentioning the difficulty of shifting into R, but I'm not having that problem with mine.

I'll eventually change out the gear oil in the front and the rear, but I figure I'll let them break in a little more before doing that.
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Old 04-10-2013, 10:50 PM   #105
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I did amsoil too. Reverse is still difficult, maybe not all the time, but still at least 1/2 the time.
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Old 04-11-2013, 12:06 AM   #106
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PA452, glad to hear you went with the manual. Where you from? There's a PA rt 452 not too far from me, I'm around 15 miles west of Philly.

Re. Reverse:
I've gotten into the habit of shifting to reverse while rolling reeeeally slowly. Usually lets me shift with no trouble. Haven't changed the trans/diff fluid, but I want to get to that at some point.
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Old 04-11-2013, 06:42 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soobie doo View Post
PA452, glad to hear you went with the manual. Where you from? There's a PA rt 452 not too far from me, I'm around 15 miles west of Philly.

Re. Reverse:
I've gotten into the habit of shifting to reverse while rolling reeeeally slowly. Usually lets me shift with no trouble. Haven't changed the trans/diff fluid, but I want to get to that at some point.
But I can't roll slightly in my garage, or a parking space. I don't really use reverse anywhere else. It probably happens 1 in 4 times now
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:16 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper View Post
Consider swapping out the front differential/transmission fluid (same case) to synthetic (I used Amsoil Severe Gear), and a short shifter or the Perrin adapter (that I have).

Both of these mods are fairly inexpensive and make a big difference in the feel and smoothness of the transmission. The synthetic fluid change seemed to make it both shift better and also reduce the occasional trouble engaging reverse gear (all my opinion, one person here did the Amsoil change and noticed zilch, I think it made a big difference). Now that you have 1,000 miles or so it will shift better anyway, it takes a while to break in the clutch.
I'm the Impreza owner who didn't see a change in shifting feel after changing the tranny/diff fluids to Amsoil Severe Gear. It feels no better or worse to me after making the change. However, I don't have the problem of shifting into reverse nearly as frequently as Flyboy describes. I'd say my shifts into reverse are perfect at least 90% of the time, and probably even more than that.

I also recently installed a short shift kit. I installed a Cobb shifter, but did not replace any of the bushings. This significantly shortened the throw, and made the shifter feel much more "notchy" and less vague as you engage each gear. The Cobb is nice because it allows you to adjust both the length of the throw as well as the height of your shift knob. Be advised that the shorter the throw and the lower your knob, the more effort required move the shifter (due to loss of mechanical advantage/leverage).

Hope this helps.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:32 AM   #109
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I have noticed that if the rpm is over 1000 it shifts into reverse silky smooth
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:45 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
I have noticed that if the rpm is over 1000 it shifts into reverse silky smooth
So with that knowledge, can you avoid all problems engaging reverse?
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:45 AM   #111
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Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post

So with that knowledge, can you avoid all problems engaging reverse?
I suppose, but if the engine isn't idling that high ie after start, it will give me issues once and a while. I don't usually give it gas to shift into reverse, I suppose I could
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:35 PM   #112
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For some reason my car tried to grind when engaging reverse 3 times today. No idea why. When I got home I tried putting it in reverse and had no issues at all, tried maybe 20 times and it was only difficult 3 times. I tried giving it some gas and if it is above 1000rpm it ground, but less than 1000 no issues. Kinda shoots my other theory out of the water, only difference it that is when the car is just started and it is idling between 1500-2000rpm.

I just don't get it

Last edited by flyboy1100; 04-12-2013 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:47 PM   #113
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^^ Did it behave this way before installing the short shifter?
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:52 PM   #114
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N->R will grind if you don't hold in the clutch long enough or far enough.

The clutch has to go from idle speed (at least) to a dead stop before reverse can engage without grinding.
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Old 04-12-2013, 08:01 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
^^ Did it behave this way before installing the short shifter?
yes, just hasn't happened since last summer and the shifter was around Thanksgiving

Quote:
N->R will grind if you don't hold in the clutch long enough or far enough.

The clutch has to go from idle speed (at least) to a dead stop before reverse can engage without grinding.
i was wondering about this, thanks

if i drive it on sunday I will do more testing, calling for another 7-14" of snow sunday, Spring? I guess to have averages you have to have years like this too
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:38 AM   #116
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Just want to put this out there.
But since I've installed my KB SS and bushings I've noticed a whole lot more noise and vibration in the cabin when I step off the gas to decelerate while in 2nd or 3rd at around 2k-4k rpm but goes away if I shift to neutral. Almost like its engine braking every time I step off the gas when I'm in those gears and rpm's. Really noticeable when I have all windows up and radio off. Sounds like its coming from the gearbox or tranny. Anyone else experience this?
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:37 AM   #117
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The higher the RPMs and the lower the gear, the more engine braking you'll have. If you want less braking, go to a higher gear. The car uses zero fuel while decelerating in gear.
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Old 04-13-2013, 03:41 AM   #118
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Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
The higher the RPMs and the lower the gear, the more engine braking you'll have. If you want less braking, go to a higher gear. The car uses zero fuel while decelerating in gear.
Makes absolute sense and that's what I was thinking of too. But I wonder why it became so noticable after I installed the KB SS? Driving habits are the same before and after the install. Maybe due to the stiffer bushings?
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:47 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown77 View Post
Makes absolute sense and that's what I was thinking of too. But I wonder why it became so noticable after I installed the KB SS? Driving habits are the same before and after the install. Maybe due to the stiffer bushings?
Yes, my guess is that stiffer bushings transfer more vibration/noise through the shift linkages and shift lever, and therefore into the passenger compartment. I installed a Cobb short shifter, but left my original bushings, and I don't have any new noise/vibration.

It would not surprise me if this is the reason manufacturers use softer bushings in the first place--noise reduction.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:41 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
N->R will grind if you don't hold in the clutch long enough or far enough.

The clutch has to go from idle speed (at least) to a dead stop before reverse can engage without grinding.
Exactly, There is absolutely no reverse grinding when im going very slow in 1st (parking lot) and back into a parking spot. Shifting into reverse is almost instant in this situation.
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Old 04-13-2013, 12:41 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by auskip07 View Post

Exactly, There is absolutely no reverse grinding when im going very slow in 1st (parking lot) and back into a parking spot. Shifting into reverse is almost instant in this situation.
I wasn't moving, I started the car. Sat for a minute, and then tried to put it in gear, and it ground
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:20 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
I wasn't moving, I started the car. Sat for a minute, and then tried to put it in gear, and it ground
did you let the clutch out in neutral when let the car sit? Thats where the disk was moving too fast to engage R
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Old 04-13-2013, 02:44 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by auskip07 View Post

did you let the clutch out in neutral when let the car sit? Thats where the disk was moving too fast to engage R
Yes, at least we figured out why it was grinding now and now I know what not to do in the future
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Old 04-13-2013, 04:35 PM   #124
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Quote:
I wasn't moving, I started the car. Sat for a minute, and then tried to put it in gear, and it ground
Your car wasn't moving, but your clutch was. Any time the clutch is out, clutch speed is equal to engine speed. When you press the clutch, it begins its spin-down. If you shift into reverse before the clutch stops, there will be grinding.

If you are going from a forward gear to reverse, you can shift as quickly as you want as long as the car is stopped.

From neutral, you want to press the clutch, wait, then engage reverse.

If you are in a hurry, you can quickly flick the stick up halfway into fifth then down into reverse. The fifth gear synchro will stop the clutch.
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Old 04-13-2013, 07:20 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post

Your car wasn't moving, but your clutch was. Any time the clutch is out, clutch speed is equal to engine speed. When you press the clutch, it begins its spin-down. If you shift into reverse before the clutch stops, there will be grinding.

If you are going from a forward gear to reverse, you can shift as quickly as you want as long as the car is stopped.

From neutral, you want to press the clutch, wait, then engage reverse.

If you are in a hurry, you can quickly flick the stick up halfway into fifth then down into reverse. The fifth gear synchro will stop the clutch.
I didn't know that the synchro stops the clutch, I will need to do some reading on this to better educate myself.
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