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Old 02-14-2013, 09:12 PM   #301
mr.nicknasty8
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Don't know if this fits this thread. .. how would one go about removing rear spats that have been 3m taped? The same way as a de-bage?
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Old 02-14-2013, 09:19 PM   #302
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.nicknasty8
Don't know if this fits this thread. .. how would one go about removing rear spats that have been 3m taped? The same way as a de-bage?
Yeah pretty much. A heat gun will do the trick.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:43 AM   #303
MattTHEpainter
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Bump with a recent job






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Old 04-18-2013, 11:58 AM   #304
konradlip
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that looks clean. i have a question. when i was hit by a asian lady in ny she managed not only yo crack my bumper but also to chip the paint off right on top of the licence plate. i can see the plastic. what should i do? putty then primer and color an clear or don't use the putty and just layer up the paint.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:54 PM   #305
25rsti
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I don't think her race is relevant.
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Old 04-18-2013, 09:57 PM   #306
garudatwo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konradlip View Post
that looks clean. i have a question. when i was hit by a asian lady in ny she managed not only yo crack my bumper but also to chip the paint off right on top of the licence plate. i can see the plastic. what should i do? putty then primer and color an clear or don't use the putty and just layer up the paint.
Pretty sure NY requires liability insurance for a min of $10K, didn't you get her info?
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Old 04-18-2013, 10:42 PM   #307
konradlip
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I didn't notice it until I got home
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Old 04-19-2013, 09:41 AM   #308
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Just to give you guys a little insight on what it takes to do a proper paint job here is a link to the photos from the recent restoration IAG did to my 2002 WRX. This was close to 300 man hours and took about 2 months.

http://iagcollision.com/images/custo...ent/index.html
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #309
griffinwert
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That is an incredible job on that car. Props to IAG on a job well done!
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Old 06-05-2013, 07:22 PM   #310
chet24
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So I have a question for you. My front lip (09 DGM WRX) was damaged by the previous owner, small dent, was repaired at some point, then it had spiderweb cracks and a LOT of pitting all along the drivers side and was flaking all the way through the paint. I decided to fix it, went to a local paint shop. They said a single stage paint 61K would be fine since the bumper didn't need to be touched, only the lip section. As I get sanding, I see body filler, blah blah, it was just a crappy repair job in the first place. I finish the paint, the color is significantly darker than the DGM on the car.

I have not had a chance to do a fine sand and polish this paint yet, but I am worried about the color matching. I did the whole lip, so it hopefully isn't going to be too noticeable.

My question is mostly relating to clear coat. Can I clear over this single stage paint? If so, should I polish the paint before I clear? Or do I not need to clear and once I polish it should look better?

It doesn't need to be perfect (hence me deciding to do it myself and not paying a professional) but I am a perfectionist and want to feel like it was worth my time, which now it is not.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:59 PM   #311
Jackie leggs
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Yes you can clear over a single stage. I wouldnt try to wetsand or do much polishing on that single stage, you will most likely burn down into the metallic. When this happens, you will have obvious collections of flake in those areas.
So your options for this are either have it resprayed in a 2 stage or just clear over the lip.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:17 AM   #312
sensimilla
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So I've been tasked with doing some cosmetic mods for my girlfriend's GH Impreza and I'll be honest, I don't know anything about exterior/body work/paint and cosmetic mods in general. I had a few questions to ask about what I'm going to try to tackle this weekend so I'd appreciate if someone points me in the right direction.

The current task is to repaint or replace all of the existing plastichrome trim black. Right now all I've done is install a black fiberglass/mesh grill.

My first question relates to that. Her car's body color is silver and you can clearly see a bunch of the body color paint behind the grill. I didn't really have time to take a good look at it because I only had 30min to take her grill off, drill holes for the new one, and align it, but I figure you guys would know right away if this is something I can remove or if it's going to have to get painted in the car. I'm talking about the body color metal that's infront of the radiator. I want to be lazy and cheap but I assume I can't plastidip something so close to the radiator...

What's my best option here? How should I go about painting this black?

Once I have that sorted the only remaining tasks are to paint the headlight bezels black (I'm thinking I won't smoke them) and to paint the chrome trim piece on the back of the hatch black. How would I go about painting these? I assume a well done spray paint job would suffice but I don't really know how to go about it. Do I just paint over the plastic chrome and give it a lot of layers? I know it won't stick well. Or am I supposed to sand it down and paint over that?

Oh yeah she still hasn't decided if she wants me to do all the black bits in matte, semi, or high gloss finish.. I was thinking semi gloss but she wants it matte. Wouldn't that look weird in the headlight bezels or am I crazy? Her rims are matte black but she's planning on doing new rims/wheels/tires for winter anyway so anything's an option.

Thanks. Any tips in general for doing these jobs would be handy. I don't need any help talking apart the headlights etc, but I guess it would be nice to know what to call that chrome trim piece on the hatch in case I run into any trouble and need to ask another question..... I'd rather ask and get it done right than put together a cheap ****ty hack job.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:33 AM   #313
Jackie leggs
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For the support in front of the radiator, just grab a can of flat black and go to town. As for the rear trim, yes you will need to scuff the surface as the paint needs something to bight into. I'm not going to answer on the headlights seeing as I have never painted a set. Maybe you can search for a headlight baking thread and see how others have painted theirs.
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Old 06-06-2013, 12:48 AM   #314
sensimilla
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I found a good guide on here for the headlights that went into detail for the painting. And worst case I can just figure it out. Mostly just wondering if matte paint would look bad in the head/tail lamps or if I should do semi or high gloss all the way around. It's a PITA to take them apart so I'd like to get it right the first time around.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:08 AM   #315
Jackie leggs
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Personally I think semi gloss would look better. I saw you mentioned the taillights too. They are no where as easy to take apart like the headlights. You can't just bake them, you need to cut them open and then epoxy back together. Not many have been able to do so without having a leak later on.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:42 PM   #316
sensimilla
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackie leggs View Post
Personally I think semi gloss would look better. I saw you mentioned the taillights too. They are no where as easy to take apart like the headlights. You can't just bake them, you need to cut them open and then epoxy back together. Not many have been able to do so without having a leak later on.
**** that's good to know before I start tearing them apart. She definitely hates the chrome colored tails with a passion. This is probably wrong thread but are there any aftermarket tails that either come in black or (ideally) are easily paintable that would match a painted set of the headlamps? Money isn't an issue, nor is finish because I haven't painted anything else on the car yet so I can be decently flexible on that. Sorry if this is really dumb but I'm a total newbie to Subarus so I don't even really know what to search because I don't know what parts would be compatible or not....
Or should I just buy a used set of stock tails, grow a pair, and chop them up? I build aquariums all the time so making the epoxy or silicone seal up won't be too hard for me, I'm just worried about messing up when I cut them open.....

Last edited by sensimilla; 06-06-2013 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:50 AM   #317
05subysti
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Just buy a used pair of lights if your that much of a wussy.

Use a dremel with cutting disk, go ahead and dremel lightly to make a guide all around the light.

Dremel till you can see inside the housing.
Use a tiny flat head pry apart.

Pull part housing, red lense, turn and reverse lenses

Scuff up housing with sand paper or scotchbrite

Prime and paint whatever color you want.

Install in reverse order

Before placing the clear cover back on
Place some 3m ribbon seal. Press tightly together. Reinstall screws.

Tadah.


Takes a few hours. But to make sure you let paint cure. They'll be apart for a couple days.



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Old 07-16-2013, 02:10 PM   #318
Brown Ops
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattTHEpainter View Post

I'm not to familiar with the wrapping process or what imperfections would show. I would sand down the chips with 180/400, then apply a little glaze with a razor blade over any chips or scratches.

Definitely apply a primer over any repairs.
How far from the damaged area do you recommend I start sanding? And once I apply the glaze and it hardens, what grits do you recommend I use? I know to block sand in a criss cross pattern and to use a dark paint of some sort to show any low spots.

Also, once I get everything level to the touch how will I go about applying primer? It will be out of a can. I'm imagining that I will back tape (or whatever the correct term is) about four or five inches around the repaired area. Do I spray the entire exposed area? Once, that is done, do I need to sand the primer? This question is directed to both tiny rock chips and a couple of golfball sized dents I have. Thank you!
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:20 PM   #319
StormTrooper17
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Default Z Speed Roof Wing?

I ordered the wing and it came in today but there are no side mounts with it (just the middle section). Did I get ripped off or do I just have to buy them separate? This is a huge issue for me.
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:21 PM   #320
Brown Ops
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I almost forgot! My rear plastic bumper has a large dent in it near the trunk lid, right under the driver side tailight. Where do I start in repairing that bad boy? IIRC, the dented area is about the size of a notecard.
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Old 07-17-2013, 03:27 PM   #321
Jackie leggs
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Pictures of said dent would help determine how to go about fixing it.
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:03 PM   #322
chet24
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So I have posted in here a couple of times, long story short, I'm going to be clear coating my molded stock lip on my 09 after a single stage paint. I'm wondering how many coats I should plan on, how much paint I'll need, and also if I should plan on doing the whole front bumper. If the front bumper needs to be done, what prep work would I need? And I am also wondering if another coat or two of clear on the hood will help with the excessive chipping problems subaru's seem to have. And if that is feasible.

It is really hard to find specific questions like this answered online...
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Old 10-02-2013, 10:49 AM   #323
jm020
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My '13 WRX got keyed at a football game a week ago, and I'm looking to attempt to wet-sand it to minimize the scratch. I got touch up paint from the dealer, and have since filled in the scratch to almost flush with the paint. I have read about Suby's super thin clear, and was wondering if anyone has tried to wet-sand a key mark, and if so, how successful they've been. I know it's not going to disappear, I just want to minimize it without spending 1k to re-spray a whole door. The mark is only about 6-8" long...
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:18 AM   #324
Brown Ops
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jm020 View Post
My '13 WRX got keyed at a football game a week ago, and I'm looking to attempt to wet-sand it to minimize the scratch. I got touch up paint from the dealer, and have since filled in the scratch to almost flush with the paint. I have read about Suby's super thin clear, and was wondering if anyone has tried to wet-sand a key mark, and if so, how successful they've been. I know it's not going to disappear, I just want to minimize it without spending 1k to re-spray a whole door. The mark is only about 6-8" long...
I have wetsanded a few scratches before with great success. They all totally disappeared so I was lucky. My scratches weren't deep at all except for one. It is hard to see from any angle though. I have black paint too.

A problem I encountered though was when I went to buff the paint. I had swirl marks trying to do it by hand. I ordered some foam 3M pads along a power drill attachment that attaches the foam pads via velcro and used 3M rubbing compound first with light pressure. I made slow overlapping passes with the rubbing compound. I followed that up with 3M scratch remover also making slow overlapping passes with light pressure. I found it best to let the compound do the work instead of applying hard pressure. I only pressed hard enought to compress the waffle pad flat onto the paint. FYI, I think 3M sells a scratch remover kit that includes all of the products I just mentioned. You can also use this method to restore dull headlights. Just sand by hand though as it saves you more work in the long run.
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Old 10-02-2013, 11:19 AM   #325
Brown Ops
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Don't forget to apply some wax afterwards bro. Good luck!
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