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Old 04-12-2013, 11:10 AM   #426
Type2
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I tried to install my fuelab FPR this morning before work but the pushloc hose is larger than the steel fuel line it's supposed to mate up to so I had to abort and put the old FPR back on. Not sure how to resolve that.

Took it out on the highway this morning. EGT's kept hitting 1600* so the alarm was going off. I am unable to get over 65mph without going over 1600* At cruise it's about 1500*, but as soon as there is an incline, up goes the temp and on goes the alarm. I'll hit 1600* doing a slow pull 1/4 throttle to 45mph. After about 5 miles on the highway my check engine light goes on and cruise light starts flashing. I didn't have my Cobb AP to pull the code, so I'll have to wait until after work. Car still runs. I'm not sure if this is because my FPR is going bad, or what.

Regardless, I think it's time to move on from this car. I owe $5800 and put $10k in the engine build. Not counting what I put in before the engine build... Not sure what I can get out of it at this point. Just exhausted.
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:30 PM   #427
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Why not just get another OEM FPR to troubleshoot?
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Old 04-12-2013, 02:54 PM   #428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aboothman View Post
Why not just get another OEM FPR to troubleshoot?
I could, but after spending $155 for the Fuelab fpr and $36 for hoses and fitting, and just now dropping another $41 on a -6AN to 5/16" barbed hose adapter (b/c the pushloc hose and adapters will not work) I'm feeling exhausted. As much as I have tried to be responsible and plan all my purchases out ahead of time, there are still several things I have bought that I simply didn't need or use. That kind of thing is starting to get to me a little bit lately. Maybe it's because I'm still not really enjoying my car after owning it for over a year.

Oreilly's has and oem FPR but it's $89. I just can't force myself to spend the money just for a one-off test. If I knew someone in town with a spare that would be different. My -AN hose adapters will be in next week so I should be able to get the Fuelab installed then. In the meantime, I'll just keep it in town and install my fuel pressure gauge to keep an eye on things.
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Old 04-12-2013, 06:46 PM   #429
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Just find a cheap used one that is known to work. You don't have to buy everything new.

It is possible that the EGT issue is timing related as well.
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Old 04-12-2013, 11:45 PM   #430
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Stop throwing money at the car hoping it will fix it. E-tunes are great and all but with all the issues you've had I'd get the tune done at a shop on a dyno. Next money spent should be towards that. Then when/if other issues come up they can trouble shoot them for ya
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:54 AM   #431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
Stop throwing money at the car hoping it will fix it. E-tunes are great and all but with all the issues you've had I'd get the tune done at a shop on a dyno. Next money spent should be towards that. Then when/if other issues come up they can trouble shoot them for ya
Paul - I really appreciate your comment. I've seen a lot of guys who get a misfire go out and buy all new plugs, injectors, coil packs, or all three. That's not necessarily the case here. Re: a tuning shop: the only shop around is Modified by KC about an hour drive from me. Cars sit there for weeks and weeks on end. They have terrible communication. I've emailed them twice and got a message back about a week later. They charge 90 -150/hr "depending on the complexity". It would probably cost me close to a couple grand to take it up there and have them "fix" it and tune it.

My tuner (Mikey) and a local KC tuner both told me from the get go I needed an aftermarket FPR with my setup. It's my fault I didn't do this back in January 2013. Mikey recommended the Aeromotive and Kyle recommended the Fuelab. Given the amount of money I've spent on the build it would look like I'm throwing money at the car hoping things will get fixed, but in reality, the only thing I've bought since the car has been running and driving around town (350 miles so far) is a) oil return drain flange for turbo b) fuel pressure gauge c) Fuelab 515 d) Push-Loc hose w/ AN fittings e) -6AN to 5/16" barb for Fuelab 515.

Back on topic:
The issue with my EGT's is being looked at by Mikey. It's either too lean or timing issues. I just installed my fuel gauge and at idle the fuel pressure is around 35 psi. At about 10 psi boost it is around 50 psi, with egt's in the 12.5 range - see video below. I think that is too little pressure, especially for under boost. Mikey wants me to set my psi at 50 - 52 psi at idle. EDIT: actually, after looking at video my AFR's are in the 14's during partial throttle mid boost.

The CEL that popped when I was on the turnpike was P0546 - Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit Malfunction (High Input). It was my belief that Mikey was supposed to turn this code off. The alternative is for me to use the 2.2k ohm fix. I read HERE that this code can potentially cause fueling issues.

I know I was a big "Debbie Downer" the other day after my failed commute, but I really feel positive I am getting close to resolving my issues and getting it road ready.

Here is a pic of my Fuelab. I need to remove the -6 AN fittings and replace them with -6AN to 5/15" barbed fittings so it will work with my fuel lines. I don't want to switch over to -AN fuel lines.


Here is a pic of the adapter I will be using:


Finally, here is a video of my pull showing my boost, fuel pressure, and my EGT's hitting over 1600+. This was a partial throttle low boost 0 - 60 mph pull. BTW, I will be moving the fuel pressure gage over to the A arm. This is just my temporary ghetto setup:

Last edited by Type2; 04-15-2013 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 04-18-2013, 05:17 PM   #432
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I'm interested in hard wiring my fuel pump. It's about a $30 mod and has great results. I reviewed THIS THREAD and there seems to be some disagreement on which kit to use.

Some of these kits keep the pump on 100% of the time, and some do not. I would like to retain proper on/off switching. Anyone have any preference?

Summit Racing Kit

STM Kit
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Old 04-22-2013, 02:58 PM   #433
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Installed Fuelab fuel pressure regulator Saturday. Set baseline to 50 psi. I used 5/16" fuel line fittings on the FPR for simplicity.




Big problem now is that fuel pressure will rise during WOT but will quickly fall off after about 4,000 rpm's causing the engine to go lean. Here it spikes up to 65 psi, then falls as rpm's rise:

My first log it actually hit close to 70 psi, then fell:

I started a new thread and the feedback I got was that it was probably my fuel pump - so I picked up a Walbro 255. Mainly because it was cheap and since I don't believe I will ever go e85 at this point, I don't need a bigger pump.

Something I thought was odd was my AFR's were not rich despite bumping up base fuel psi from 30 - 50
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Old 05-04-2013, 03:41 PM   #434
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So hows this coming?
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Old 05-06-2013, 11:58 AM   #435
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Quote:
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So hows this coming?
There is progress. I installed a new fuel pump and put a quicktap on my intake for my purge valve. This is the same quicktap I am using to measure boost as well.

Mikey sent me 3 new map revisions last week that has largely resolved my high EGT's, but not completely. I am able to drive to work now, however, and that has alleviated a lot of stress. My egt's really only climb at cruise when I am trying to maintain speed, such as on a long graded hill. I think my timing needs to be increased or I need a little more fuel. Not sure which. But, for instance, when my temps start to increase, I can actually *drop* my egt's by giving it more throttle. Here is a video showing what I mean. When my temps hit 1600* and the alarm goes off, I give it the beans and you can see the temps drop precipitously:


Today I left my car on cruise control and my temps never got above 1500*
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:51 PM   #436
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Quicktap for intake installed same day as I installed Walbro 255 fuel pump. I wasn't completely sure the prior connection was air tight, and since I'm trying to eliminate all potential loose ends, I decided to fix this.

I like Permatex Grey a LOT, but I think I've become a bit more partial to "The Right Stuff" here lately.


I liberally applied TRS on both sides of the quick tap. I also kept the rubber grommet that fit inside the hold I drilled.


Here you can see the rubber grommet on the inside of the intake.


Rubber grommet squished quite a bit with TRS.


Finished. Both lines are now secured with tie wraps
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Old 05-06-2013, 01:00 PM   #437
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I also installed my fuel pump. Super quick and easy. Most of the work came from me fiddling with the new pump. I believe this has completely solved my fueling issues. Mikey is actually in the process of leaning me out at WOT full boost. This instantly kicked me from mid 12's WOT to pegging me in the low 10's. Right now I'm in low 11's WOT. Once we get 1 bar boost dialed in, we'll move on to upping the boost.

Old pump sitting in glass bowl:


I don't like these types of connectors.


Fuel filter:


Old fuel pump sitting next to my relatively tiny Walbro 255:


To get the small Walbro to fit similar to the much larger fuel pump, I cut part of a fuel hose down the middle and put it behind the Walbro before I clamped it down:


Another picture of the two pumps side by side. The old pump was much quieter:


I reinstalled my fuel rail pressure gauge


I mounted my fuel pressure sending unit to the fpr for more accurate readings:
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:59 PM   #438
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Those clamps are great as long as they are the proper size for the hose you are using. Worm drive clamps are easy to over tighten and can damage the hose, and they like to loosen up over time.

Your new pump is noisier because it is flowing more
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Old 06-18-2013, 02:35 PM   #439
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Still in the process of tuning. It pulls like a monster, but these numbers still seem absurd.

This was a 2nd gear pull.

I am doing some checking right now to make sure my data is 100% correct. I used Cars101.com to get the curb weight and gear ratios for the automatic transmission. I have 4 brand new tires as of last week, so I used the tire calculator to get my tire circumference. I will probably get a tape measure to get an exact reading.

I added 150lbs for occupant weight. I weight 192, but I was on 3/4 tank of gas. This includes a full size spare tire and a ton of dyno matting, so I feel I am being realistic here.

I have conflicting reports on the CD - it's either .36 or .37

SAE Corrected

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forest...ester2004.html

CD (drag coefficient) 0.36 (??) - not sure if a legit source
automatic: 1st 2.785, 2nd 1.545. 3rd 1.0, 4th 0.694,
reverse 2.272. Final 4.444
Curb weight - auto trans: 3,250 lbs
Occupant weight - 3,400 lbs

Thoughts? Opinions?






Last edited by Type2; 06-18-2013 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:40 PM   #440
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numbers are way off obviously. Autos can give funny readings and sometimes a super high tq curve.
At 20psi I'd assume 350ish on VD settings



why does it go so lean at the end??
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:57 PM   #441
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Quote:
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numbers are way off obviously. Autos can give funny readings and sometimes a super high tq curve.
At 20psi I'd assume 350ish on VD settings

why does it go so lean at the end??
It goes lean because we are still tuning and i rarely hit that high of rpm so Mikey hasn't edited those cells. I was surprised to see it go lean as well. This is a work in progress and I probably shouldn't have bothered putting the numbers in virtual dyno, but I was curious. I'm hoping to get 24 - 27 psi on this. The turbo really loves boost.

Explain your comment re autos and super high tq curve. I've read multiple threads on Airboy and Virtual Dyno but never saw anything about the software having issues with autos.

Thanks
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:27 PM   #442
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Have you hit up a truck stop to see about using their drive on scale for a realistic weight?
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:45 PM   #443
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Explain your comment re autos and super high tq curve. I've read multiple threads on Airboy and Virtual Dyno but never saw anything about the software having issues with autos.

Thanks
I just ment in general. I had a buddy with a auto DSM and he went thru tons of setups and the graphs were sometimes very odd for the mods. Always ran good times tho...
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Old 06-18-2013, 08:49 PM   #444
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is it just me or does your WT say 6650?? lol
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:39 PM   #445
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is it just me or does your WT say 6650?? lol
Bingo.

Real power is 3000# away.

Last edited by Zee Biker; 06-18-2013 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 06-18-2013, 09:44 PM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin V View Post
Have you hit up a truck stop to see about using their drive on scale for a realistic weight?
Yeah, I have one about 35 miles from my house, but it's only open weekdays from 4am to 2pm. I'll have a heck of a time getting there, but I definitely want to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul View Post
is it just me or does your WT say 6650?? lol
haha I noticed that. If you look at the image, I input 3400 for weight. Why is the weight (I assume that is what wt means) 6650?

Thanks for any help!
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:02 PM   #447
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Quote:
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Yeah, I have one about 35 miles from my house, but it's only open weekdays from 4am to 2pm. I'll have a heck of a time getting there, but I definitely want to.



haha I noticed that. If you look at the image, I input 3400 for weight. Why is the weight (I assume that is what wt means) 6650?

Thanks for any help!
When using the spread sheet, you select the vehicle, and they spreadsheet already has a default weight for it. You enter a delta (not the 3400, but occupancy and other trinkets) to get a total weight for the car.

Try adding 150, not 3400
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:09 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zee Biker View Post

When using the spread sheet, you select the vehicle, and they spreadsheet already has a default weight for it. You enter a delta (not the 3400, but occupancy and other trinkets) to get a total weight for the car.

Try adding 150, not 3400
Lol! I'll try that haha
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:29 PM   #449
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OK.... These numbers seem a little low (especially since I don't weigh 3,400 lbs anymore lol), but hell, maybe they are correct. I definitely need to get a tape measure to measure my tires. I don't know if I trust the built in tire calculator. And the weight could be off.

I'm going to keep my original dyno plots above because they make me chuckle...





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Old 06-19-2013, 07:17 AM   #450
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that seems much more reasonable. If you still have doubts run it down the 1/4 to get a trap speed
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