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Old 04-15-2013, 07:24 PM   #6076
flimflamman
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When I was at an OHV area not to long ago there were a couple of pre-runners with one of these on the front. This was during the middle of they day and they were crazy bright.
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:54 PM   #6077
Uncle Scotty
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i cant wait to get Rigid light bar and install it so i have some REAL light......just gotta figure out if i really need a 10" one or a 6" one......
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:36 PM   #6078
02boxer
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lol...few of us "need" it...do what the budget and space allows for and get it
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:39 PM   #6079
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The 10" bar is a lot more light then I expected for sure, but getting the bar at wholesale was all the motivation I needed lol.

I"ll post up in here if I can get more discounted.
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:05 AM   #6080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02boxer View Post
lol...few of us "need" it...do what the budget and space allows for and get it
well....i like to bomb along at nite at speed in remote places and NEEDING more light is a real need when you wanna make time
and im SURE i could fit a 20" one if i wanted.....maybe 2 6" ones.....or 2 10's



Quote:
Originally Posted by paperdukie View Post
The 10" bar is a lot more light then I expected for sure, but getting the bar at wholesale was all the motivation I needed lol.

I"ll post up in here if I can get more discounted.
d0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 0000d

id be REAL pleased if you could hook me UP
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Old 04-16-2013, 06:21 AM   #6081
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Last edited by RavensFan7; 04-16-2013 at 09:30 AM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 04:23 PM   #6082
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What a coincidence... I just installed those lights last weekend

I haven't had a chance to drive in the dark with them, but with my 5-minute alignment job they seem very bright - at least as bright as my 2012 STi's high beams.

My crazy wiring setup works too. I think I might have been talking about it here (this thread) or on IWSTI somewhere. I have a 3-way switch I installed in the bottom of my mirror adjustment controls panel. Turn it left and the lights will turn on as long as the car is on. Turn it right and it will turn the lights on but only if the high beams are on too. Due to the way the GR Impreza uses the high-beam bulbs for DRLs too there was some trickiness with using a second relay to get the lights to turn on only when a high beam and a low beam signal is present, but it works perfectly. Easy highway driving using the existing high beam switch.

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Old 04-16-2013, 09:21 PM   #6083
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Very simple set up for low amp LEDs for folks without high beam DRLs:
OK, actually, already did a write up with my set up, take a look at post 6007 here: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=6007 and a few after it.

I did a similar set up, except I used a double throw switch (ON-OFF-ON) so I could turn the lights on, or on with the high beams. Since I pushed 2 100 watt lights through each circuit, I also put a relay in. Also, I needed to have mine turn on only when the high beams AND the low beams were on, otherwise my daytime running lights turned on the big lights. Stupid DRLs.. This situation is simpler.

Here's what you'll need:
1 "add a fuse" tap:
Bussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse : Amazon.com : AutomotiveBussmann BP/HHH ATM Add-A-Fuse : Amazon.com : Automotive

1 relay (I prefer to get the wiring harness, as well.)
Amazon.com: Car Auto Truck Relay & Socket SPDT 12V 12 Volt DC 40A AMP 5Pin: AutomotiveAmazon.com: Car Auto Truck Relay & Socket SPDT 12V 12 Volt DC 40A AMP 5Pin: Automotive

1 fuse holder. I recommend close to the battery for obvious reasons, so make it water resistant. Found out why the hard way myself.
Amazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: AutomotiveAmazon.com: In-line ACT Water-resistant Fuse Holder - 10 AWG: Automotive

A single pole, single throw lighted switch. I like Carling Technology switches, and I get them here: http://www.otrattw.com/products.php?cat=34
The switch body for on/off with a light that turns on when the light is on is the V1D1BC0B option in the dropdown menu.

And, of course, various lengths of wiring, tape, solder, shrink tube, etc.

Here's the basic wiring plan:

You will use an add a fuse tap on the underhood fuse box. Look for the high beam fuses, my car has one for left and one for right. DO NOT USE THE LEFT ONE! No good reason, but drama is nice. You can use either one... Test the circuit, on my Outback, the fuse only gets power when the high beams are on. Hopefull yours is the same... if not, you will need to splice it into the wire going into the light itself. I hate carving on stock wiring, but if you don't mind then go for it and you don't even need the add-a fuse. My fuse box had drain holes, I ran the line down that and out of the box. If you don't have those... get creative with a small drillbit and some silicone.

The relay can go underhood, or inside the car somewhere. If it's inside the car, you will have to run the line from the light to it, but it's better protected from weather. You will also need to run a line from the battery to the switch inside, and a line from the switch to the relay. And a line from the relay to the lights.

The switch will have 3 terminals. One all by it's lonesome is a ground. Connect it to... a ground. The other two (closer to each other) will be your switch terminals. The center most one will connect to the relay. The other one will connect to your lights. Very simple switch, There is an internal jumper to light the LED up when the switch is on.

So... To line everything up:
  • Battery POS(+) to fuse holder.
  • Fuse holder to relay pin 30.
  • Relay pin 86 to ground (body is fine.)
  • Add a fuse from High beam fuse to relay pin 85.
  • Relay pin 87 (NOT 87A!) to center switch pin.
  • Switch pin by itself to ground, again, body is fine.
  • Lower switch pin to lights positive input, with LEDs there is a dedicated POS and NEG input line, don't cross the streams. Seriously... I doubt quality ones would blow, but this is important.
  • Lights negative to ground. Make sure it's a good one, or just run it to the battery.

That should do it!

Crudely drawn diagram:


OK, in addition, if you want a switch that has two lights in it, they have that also. That would be the V1D1GHTB, V1D1JHNB,and V1D1FHNB options. You could use another add-a-fuse from the internal fuse block (radio for example) to power the independent LED in the switch. This way the switch is lit and easier to see at night. The other LED in the switch would come on when the light is on. Just a thought...

Anyone else needs a hand, just ask. I'll try, but you get what you pay for... and there's no charge. Check my work, make sure you know what your doing, and I ever write something obviously stupid or wrong, DON'T DO IT and let me know so I can fix it before someone else screws something up.

Last edited by reddoak; 04-16-2013 at 09:31 PM.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:35 PM   #6084
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Interesting approach. Wouldn't work for me because I wanted the override (on without any lights at all mode) and you have the serious drawback of having to run all your light current through your switch, which means running heavier wire in and back out of the cabin. Reducing the cabin wiring back to just a 'signal wire' as opposed to the actual current that drives the lights would require a second relay, and at that point you're basically back to the level of complexity from my install.

Here's my wiring diagram:


I also ended up buying a switch that does not have an internal indicator light, simply because the only 3-way switch that had indicator lights was freakin' huge compared to the area I wanted to fit the switch into. Instead, I bought a 250 mcd red LED, an appropriate current-limiting resistor, and a panel-mount LED holder (basically a little plastic clip) and then attached it to the output from the switch.
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Old 04-16-2013, 11:14 PM   #6085
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That was not for my car. The circuit I described last month to you is how mine are run... Same as yours I believe. I got a PM asking for wiring a single throw switch in to toggle off the high beams, with no relay since the draw for the lights was only 3 amps. but I like your concept better, so I'm going to redo my diagram and totally steal your idea.

I used a relay for both sets of halogen lights I run in front, as they are 100W lights, and I wouldn't want to chance it. I did not use one for my roof lights, as the switch I used is rated for 20 amps, and they draw about 7 and do not connect to any other system in the car without a relay isolating them. I fuse all my connections as close to the battery as possible.
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:39 AM   #6086
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OK... Here's the better simple high beam triggered circuit, which absolutely, unashamedly rips off evilspoons idea. No credit to him. But this is better than what I came up with:



So now (with changes in bold.
  • Battery POS(+) to fuse holder.
  • Fuse holder to relay pin 30.
  • Relay pin 86 to ground (body is fine.)
  • Add a fuse from high beam fuse to switch pin.
  • Relay pin 87 (NOT 87A!) to lights positive input, with LEDs there is a dedicated POS and NEG input line, don't cross the streams. Seriously... I doubt quality ones would blow, but this is important.
  • Switch pin by itself to ground, again, body is fine.
  • Switch pin to relay pin 85.
  • Lights negative to ground. Make sure it's a good one, or just run it to the battery.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:34 PM   #6087
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Here is my 2006 WRX with the Rally Innovations light bar and two Hella 500ff driving lamps.
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Old 04-20-2013, 01:46 PM   #6088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Bucket View Post
Here is my 2006 WRX with the Rally Innovations light bar and two Hella 500ff driving lamps.
lookin good! props to a fellow Mainer!
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Old 04-20-2013, 05:50 PM   #6089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeroCrank View Post
lookin good! props to a fellow Mainer!
Seems like we're hard to come by.
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Old 04-22-2013, 07:45 AM   #6090
wumfpirate
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another from lobster land here
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Old 04-22-2013, 04:59 PM   #6091
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And... my lights are drowning!

I have Lightforce 170s on my lightbar. When I got them originally, they were all alone... and mounted right side up on the lightbar. Since I got a set of larger 240s, I flipped the 170's over and mounted them on the lower tabs, and use them as fog/fill lights rather than spots. And they work great like that.

Except... They started drowning. The lens housings started taking on water from heavy rainstorms, and moisture from, well, from humid air. Not normal. I drained them, but the water returned, and the reflective housing has turned black in spots. Not good...

I contacted Lightforce USA, rather than Primitive Rally (where I purchased them) as I've only had them a year, and they are still under warranty. LF called my up today (sent email late Friday) to tell me how they could make it right. I have instructions on how to seal the wiring gaskets up, and they are sending replacement housings to me, no charge. I do not need to return the discolored ones, so the only cost I'm eating is for a bit of RTV sealant.

Seems if the wires are strained, they can pull the gasket around causing small leaks. So, the fix is to use clack RTV sensor safe sealant and re-seal around the wiring. Then zip tie the wires to the arm, so they do not get moved around in the future. Seems reasonable to me. At the moment, the lights are off the car, cleaned and dissembled and in a big plastic container with a lid on it, along with a little damp-rid bucket so they dry out before I re-seal them. I'll re-seal them, re-assemble them with the old reflectors, and make sure they don't leak but running them around for a week or two. If they're good, the replacements go on them (should be here by the end of this week, but no point ruining them!)

Anyways... point is: If you have Lightforce lights, consider sealing them if you intend to mount them upside down, to be on the safe side. If you're considering getting a pair, they have a reasonable warranty process. All I needed to do was email them the receipt from Primitive and we were good to go. They told me how to seal them before they received the email, they just needed that to send out the replacements.

Here's my liquid lights:








I'll post up how the repair and replacement process goes...
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:08 AM   #6092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paperdukie View Post
So after months of waiting I finally installed my SR10 Spot bar today. Night pics to come but let me just say that even in the afternoon sun, the lights were able to illuminate highway signs about a quarter mile away.

The ebay grill actually looks good, just better in person. I like it regardless because it fit the light and my very solid mounting bracket behind it perfectly.



That looks slick! I love my SR 10 spot and I'm thinking of getting another in flood for next winter. Combined with my E55 projectors and 50 watt ballasts I should not need for any more forward lighting.
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Old 04-23-2013, 01:25 AM   #6093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleutdude View Post
Combined with my E55 projectors and 50 watt ballasts I should not need for any more forward lighting.
famous last words, these are.
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Old 04-23-2013, 02:54 AM   #6094
TheRedBarron
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Really hope to run a primitive racing rally/light bar with some lightforce 170s here soon. Glad I stumbled upon this thread. Love the look and custom job that Paul ecklund does though.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:27 PM   #6095
02boxer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aleutdude View Post
Combined with my E55 projectors and 50 watt ballasts I should not need for any more forward lighting.
LMAO....I said that with my one 10" sr spectre....then I decided to add 2 10" sr spots on the roof....and want more
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:38 PM   #6096
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheRedBarron View Post
Really hope to run a primitive racing rally/light bar with some lightforce 170s here soon. Glad I stumbled upon this thread. Love the look and custom job that Paul ecklund does though.
When I first contacted him for the bar for the Outback, he sent me a few designs, most mounted on Imprezas. I'm sure he'd send a few pics your way.

The Primitive bars are stout. He had other lights available, as well. Look all your options over, but I was pretty set on the Lightforce lights. The 170's are a pretty big light, and would look perfect on an Impreza. They make better spot lights than floods, but they are adjustable with the focus and different lens covers available. I have yet to see the HID versions in person, but they look stupid bright in any video or pic I've seen.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:50 AM   #6097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02boxer View Post
LMAO....I said that with my one 10" sr spectre....then I decided to add 2 10" sr spots on the roof....and want more
It seems like some kind of compulsion. I thought that that the quick retro mini d2s's would be more than enough, I switched those to fx-r's and the high beams with mini h1's, an sr-10 spot and some how I still want more.. if only argon lights didn't take so long to warm up..
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Old 04-24-2013, 12:49 PM   #6098
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddoak View Post
When I first contacted him for the bar for the Outback, he sent me a few designs, most mounted on Imprezas. I'm sure he'd send a few pics your way.

The Primitive bars are stout. He had other lights available, as well. Look all your options over, but I was pretty set on the Lightforce lights. The 170's are a pretty big light, and would look perfect on an Impreza. They make better spot lights than floods, but they are adjustable with the focus and different lens covers available. I have yet to see the HID versions in person, but they look stupid bright in any video or pic I've seen.
Got any pics you could send me of your setup. I just ordered my bar yesterday from primitive. Can't wait to throw it on and rig up some lights!
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Old 04-24-2013, 03:50 PM   #6099
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You want me to pic whore? Really? Sure!















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Old 04-24-2013, 10:15 PM   #6100
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