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Old 01-05-2013, 07:28 PM   #51
MattSuuby
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re-examined the work that was supposed to be done to those valves.
This picture was taken after the heads came back from the machine shop.
Anyone see that all the valves look to be burnt/dirty?
At least 4 of those valves were supposed to be replaced.
I have the shop that i took it to calling up the machine shop to see what happened and why they weren't replaced.

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Old 02-11-2013, 07:40 PM   #52
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Curious if anyone can point me in the correct direction. I currently have a 04 WRX running all the stage 2 goodies. 6 Months ago it got all new timing set, fuel filter and the works.

3 days ago, while driving home, it started to misfire under boost. It didnt do it the first half of the drive but started acting up closer to home.

Went through some of the things on this list and that had been reccomended from others and put in a new fuel pump and NGK Iridium IX plugs (.030" gapped). It has helped but the problem is still there. Before it would start to misfire anything over about 10psi, now with the new plugs and fuel pump you can hit around 15psi before it starts acting up. Besdies that it seems to idle fine, and drive good. Its only when you get into the higher boost. It finally threw some codes yesterday (P0301, P0302) so it at least narrows it to 2 cylinders now.

Ive been told coil packs but dont want to just randomly throw money at it since I have yet to find a set locally that i can try/buy from someone. I also have a set of new injectors I was going to put in but that was going to wait for the VF39 swap to go with the tune so cant really try them since they wouldnt run right for now anyways.

Anybody have any suggestions what to try next?

Last edited by Merlin82; 02-11-2013 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 02-11-2013, 11:47 PM   #53
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You don't have to replace the coil packs, just swap them around and see if the problem follows. Ditto for injectors.

Clean the crank position sensor and the MAF and the grounds. Compression test.
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Old 03-14-2013, 12:05 PM   #54
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I had a P00018 code come up. Compression test was bad. May be going in for the new engine but could this code indicate something other than the worst news?
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:33 PM   #55
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You should also add that the OEM EBCS can cause a miss fire.It causes boost issues and gives the P0301-304 cel
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:38 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DabiDa View Post
You should also add that the OEM EBCS can cause a miss fire.It causes boost issues and gives the P0301-304 cel
Please explain. I'm only hitting 10 PSI with misfire codes on all cylinders. Car runs great though!
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:58 PM   #57
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IDK if the OP is still around and updating this thread, but a great addition would be splitting it into troubleshooting trees for Misfire with retained codes and Misfire without retained codes. (Just bucking and/or flashing CEL.)

I've been chasing a no code misfire for a bit now (waiting on new plugs) but haven't really found a good step by step in one thread, just a lot of scattered info.
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Old 03-16-2013, 11:13 AM   #58
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Sweet this helped me out! How do u stickie??
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Old 03-16-2013, 01:29 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushflyr
IDK if the OP is still around and updating this thread, but a great addition would be splitting it into troubleshooting trees for Misfire with retained codes and Misfire without retained codes. (Just bucking and/or flashing CEL.)

I've been chasing a no code misfire for a bit now (waiting on new plugs) but haven't really found a good step by step in one thread, just a lot of scattered info.
This simply means the ecu isn't picking up enough misfires in a certain amount of time to trigger the cel. Have you tried cleaning your crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor?
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Old 03-16-2013, 02:11 PM   #60
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No, haven't tried that. My problem seems inconsistent with what others report on cam and/or crank sensors. Just got plugs and a fuel filter in today, so going to replace those and see what happens. It's time for those anyway.
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Old 03-16-2013, 05:34 PM   #61
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Cleaned the sensors and double checked the the spark plugs and coil packs then cleared the codes and no check engine light so far! Its running great now! Thank you all!
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:11 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bushflyr View Post
IDK if the OP is still around and updating this thread, but a great addition would be splitting it into troubleshooting trees for Misfire with retained codes and Misfire without retained codes. (Just bucking and/or flashing CEL.)

I've been chasing a no code misfire for a bit now (waiting on new plugs) but haven't really found a good step by step in one thread, just a lot of scattered info.
It's still the same procedure/diagnostics as the first thread. Only thing I would include is checking the TPS sensor functions. The FSM has the diagnostic trees for pretty much every single DTC and function.
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Old 03-18-2013, 06:42 PM   #63
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Great thread, thanks!
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:46 PM   #64
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good thread, but I'm wondering if a bad front O2 sensor will also cause a misfire? I'm chasing down one and have read that a bad sensor will. Here's a link to my thread
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2484597
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:58 AM   #65
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A bad front one can,not the rear. Generally you will have an O2 DTC along with the misfire DTC's.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:11 PM   #66
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I just wanted to add one more fairly quick thing to check for the guys who have looked at everything on this list and still have a misfire. I recently found the source of my cylinder 1 misfire (P0301) after getting through most of the things on the list. We found that the ignition trigger wire to cylinder 1 seemed to be shorted to ground so then it was just a matter of finding out where. The short ended up being in the bundle of wires coming out of the ECU in the passenger footwell. Suddenly it all made sense because the misfire originally started when I was giving a co-worker a ride. He wanted to see how fast it was so I was driving "aggressively". I think he must have been pushing an imaginary brake pedal during the ride and may have bent the ECU cover and squished the wires into the edge of the bracketry under there. My car is not stock but I have never removed my ECU and the wire bundle was still tied down with the factory zip-ties so it seems like this could happen on any car (stock or not).

I guess this could be expanded to a more general: "Check ignition and injector trigger signal wires."

Hope ths helps or at least gives you an idea of something else to look at.

Thanks,

Mickey Oswald
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:37 AM   #67
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Thanks directing that thread here, following what I posted there

'I've been going threw a similar issue, but no sputter. Some research will help, every case is a little different. I'm doing things as I can, I've checked everything that can be done without costly replacement (cleaned maf, iacv, plugs, crank&cam, replaced fuel filter). I have 160k miles, my next fix is motor mounts then fuel pump followed by injectors.'

There is only one issue I have with the initial post here; the only people who will send their injectors out is someone who has to (ie different then stock or relatively new). And also the fact that you've not included motor mounts. Usually for me, I can pull any gear and while costing I get the blinking death engine light. So checked everything and logic has brought me to motor mounts, along with some other research elsewhere.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:47 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Awd180 View Post
There is only one issue I have with the initial post here; the only people who will send their injectors out is someone who has to (ie different then stock or relatively new).
That's not true. Why would you send "relitivly new " injectors out to get cleaned and flow balanced? It costs roughly $60 for all for the service. And there has been plenty of times where a sticky/clogged injector has been the issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Awd180 View Post
And also the fact that you've not included motor mounts. Usually for me, I can pull any gear and while costing I get the blinking death engine light. So checked everything and logic has brought me to motor mounts, along with some other research elsewhere.
Motor mounts would be a "knock" issue not a misfire issue. Not sure how motor mounts cause a misfire issue but if you have empirical info to provide please add.
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:28 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quazimoto View Post
That's not true. Why would you send "relitivly new " injectors out to get cleaned and flow balanced? It costs roughly $60 for all for the service. And there has been plenty of times where a sticky/clogged injector has been the issue.

Motor mounts would be a "knock" issue not a misfire issue. Not sure how motor mounts cause a misfire issue but if you have empirical info to provide please add.
Really hacked the implied information on the injectors. Not everyone can have their car on stand by while some company has something it needs to run. But a car with mileage and modes like mine, replacing things is a reasonable choice opposed wasting time on possibilities.

Yes mounts are more of a knock issue but again mileage and time makes it reasonable to do for Pmcs. Can't find info I read to back it.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:20 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by Awd180 View Post
Really hacked the implied information on the injectors. Not everyone can have their car on stand by while some company has something it needs to run. But a car with mileage and modes like mine, replacing things is a reasonable choice opposed wasting time on possibilities.
This thread isn't about just you and is for the most part a guide line. Also not everyone can just spend $200-$300 on new injectors. Thats great you have $$$ to waste. In the end I don't really care what you do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Awd180 View Post
Yes mounts are more of a knock issue but again mileage and time makes it reasonable to do for Pmcs. Can't find info I read to back it.
Then go post this info in the "If you have a knock issue please read this!" thread. Jesus Christ..........maybe you would like to post some more info on things that don't pertain to this thread? How about wheel bearings? They don't cause misfires but hey mileage and time makes it reasonable to do for pcms........
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:51 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quazimoto View Post
This thread isn't about just you and is for the most part a guide line. Also not everyone can just spend $200-$300 on new injectors. Thats great you have $$$ to waste. In the end I don't really care what you do.
Then go post this info in the "If you have a knock issue please read this!" thread. Jesus Christ..........maybe you would like to post some more info on things that don't pertain to this thread? How about wheel bearings? They don't cause misfires but hey mileage and time makes it reasonable to do for pcms........
Stress much, if you pay 2-300 on injectors your overpaying. Wheel bearings compared to motor mounts is a far stretch. Shift linkage or the rotor splint would be a better scenario. Motor mounts are a good suspect to misfires, but link

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...tor-mount.html
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #72
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I had a cel come on this morning while driving normal on the express way and its a solid cel. I have never seen a "blinking" cel

What would be the difference between a solid cel and blinking cel?


Taking the car tonight to AutoZone to get the code read.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:53 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
I had a cel come on this morning while driving normal on the express way and its a solid cel. I have never seen a "blinking" cel

What would be the difference between a solid cel and blinking cel?

Taking the car tonight to AutoZone to get the code read.
Well to me. When I have 1 cylinder misfiring the cel stays on solid. But if it's 2 (or more, I never experienced more then 2), it will be blinking. That's what I think.. Whether its spark plugs or coils
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:11 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
I had a cel come on this morning while driving normal on the express way and its a solid cel. I have never seen a "blinking" cel

What would be the difference between a solid cel and blinking cel?


Taking the car tonight to AutoZone to get the code read.
Blinking CEL is a substantial misfire.
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:13 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by Awd180 View Post
Stress much, if you pay 2-300 on injectors your overpaying. Wheel bearings compared to motor mounts is a far stretch. Shift linkage or the rotor splint would be a better scenario. Motor mounts are a good suspect to misfires, but link

http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2-5-lite...tor-mount.html
The wires were yanked from the harness. Did you not even read it?
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