Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday July 29, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC General > General Community

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-25-2013, 03:01 PM   #26
GrumpyPitbull
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 313311
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX boarder View Post
For those of you using the Eibach sways, how do they compare to a solid bar? I'm looking to do 22f&r, but have concerns the Eibachs will be softer than I want. I do like the idea of less unsprung weight offered by the hollow bar.
They are pretty beefy feeling, so I would guess the hole in the middle is pretty small. Honestly if you really want solid bars just go with them .. I didn't weigh the Eibachs, but can't imagine the weight savings is much if anything by how heavy they were.

The Eibachs have a 25mm front which will be stiffer than a solid 22. The rear is a 22.

My draw to the Eibach kit (and most other people I'm guessing) was the low price for a quality part .. and I am absolutely satisfied with them.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
GrumpyPitbull is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 01:56 AM   #27
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default Update

This weekend I installed both sway bars. I have never done any suspension work before, so, despite one minor setback, I'm pretty happy with myself.

Bought Rhino Ramps, backed my car up onto rear wheels and proceeded to do the easier of the two bars first.

Rear bar: Simple removal of OEM bolts. Used regular ratchet. Bolt came loose easily without the need for penetrating oil, impact wrench, breaker bar, or anything out of the ordinary.

Sway bar came out easily.

Greased up new bushing, cleaned off the bushing clamps and proceeded to install new sway bar.

Took me about 20-30 minutes to actually snake the new bar into position. This was quite a pain. I think I could do it easily now that I've done it once, but it was quite a puzzle. End links needed to be coerced into the proper holes. I selected the firm setting for the rear bar.

Tightened all bolts and that was it. Pretty simple.

and then the next day....

Front Bar: More steps to this.... Removal of plastic splash guard. Easy.

Then the 10 bolts for the support plate. These bolts wouldn't budge. I put forth every bit of muscle I had. I'm by no means weak either. I couldn't move them. I tried what I had. An impact driver, WD-40, more muscle and nothing worked.

I went out and bought a breaker bar and some PB Blaster. And that did the trick. It still wasn't easy, but each bolt made a loud popping sound as it came loose. Finally. That was about 2 hours later. Frustrated, but proud.

Removed the end link bolts, and bushing bracket bolts. Easy. All bolts came free with regular ratchet. No breaker bar needed, but I did use PB Blaster as recommended in the Eibach instructions.

Putting on the new bar was very simple. I selected the soft setting for the front bar. This went on easily as the front end links seemed to move very easily and I could just put everything where it needed to go. The bar sits flat and need not be snaked into position at all.

I loosely tightened all of the bolts first to make sure everything was where it needed to be... and then I went to tighten everything down.

This is where I ran into a problem. All I needed to do was tighten 6 bolts.....

End links - no problem.

Bushing brackets, I over-tightened one of the top bushing bracket bolts and the head of the bolt broke off! I was so mad!!!

So, if you're familiar with this install, you know that each bushing bracket has one fixed screw that just needs a nut, and one regular bolt. Well, it was the fixed screw that broke. I over cranked the nut and it just broke off.

I proceeded to put the support plate back on with the 10 bolts. No issues there at all. I can access the broken bolt easily even with the support plate on. At this point, I have not put the plastic splash guard back on yet.

My plan is to simply drill out the hole and put a new nut, bolt, and washer on.

If anyone has any other suggestions for me, I'm all ears. But again, this is just one of the bushing brackets that has one of the two bolts fastened.

Does anyone know if I can drive the car without the splash guard?

Luckily my wife is out of town for three days, so I can use her car (A Prius V).

How will the car drive with one bushing bracket bolt missing? I have the nut that has the threaded shaft in it.

It's odd that Subaru would have this fixed threaded shaft for one of the bushing bracket bolts, and the other one is just a regular bolt.

Now, knowing what I know, it's obvious that this broke so easily. It's just welded to the sheet metal.

The rear bushing brackets were not like this. I wonder why.

Anyway, next post is a series of pics of the process. Any advise is very appreciated!

It's late, I'm tired and I probably have one hundred typos in this post. Sorry.
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 02:01 AM   #28
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default Install Pics....


Last edited by snapmarc; 04-29-2013 at 02:07 AM.
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 02:18 AM   #29
p951951951t
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 276541
Join Date: Mar 2011
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: North Georgia
Vehicle:
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV
Alfa Rosso

Default

That's why you use a torque wrench and follow factory torque values.

If you have to drive the car until you can fix it, just remove the sway bar entirely. You can probably drive with the bolt missing but why do that?

You are right about the fix. Drill, replace with flanged hex screw.
p951951951t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 02:29 AM   #30
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default

see below
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 02:30 AM   #31
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default

Here is the broken bolt


Here is an example of the good one that didn't break.


My plan is to simply drill through the metal and just put in a new washer and bolt.
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 02:35 AM   #32
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by p951951951t View Post
That's why you use a torque wrench and follow factory torque values.

If you have to drive the car until you can fix it, just remove the sway bar entirely. You can probably drive with the bolt missing but why do that?

You are right about the fix. Drill, replace with flanged hex screw.
Thanks. It's interesting that Eibach doesn't give any recommended torque values.

I'm all about doing it right, but where would I find those torque values?
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 11:00 AM   #33
jmolaver
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 19130
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Uphill Esses, VIR
Vehicle:
'01 TTE Miata
www.awesom-oracing.com

Default

i think you should go return all the tools you bought, clearly you're too dangerous to own them.

torque specs
http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gr-suspe...que-specs.html
jmolaver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2013, 11:44 AM   #34
WRX boarder
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 328399
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2012 WRX Limited
OBP

Default

Snapmarc- any chance you weighed the new bars, or can compare how they felt weight wise to the stockers?
WRX boarder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 08:16 PM   #35
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX boarder View Post
Snapmarc- any chance you weighed the new bars, or can compare how they felt weight wise to the stockers?
I did not weigh the bars and compare them to the stock bars. But the difference between the rear bars was much greater than the difference between the front bars. While the front eibach bar is thicker than the rear eibach, I will say that the front stock Subaru front bar was much thicker than I had anticipated. Apparently it's the same bar as the STi. Correct me if I'm wrong.

The stock Subaru rear bar was quite flimsy and thin. You should be able to see a pretty significant difference between the two in the photos I posted above.

Last edited by snapmarc; 05-02-2013 at 10:00 PM.
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 09:40 PM   #36
WRX boarder
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 328399
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
2012 WRX Limited
OBP

Default

Thanks for the info. The bars look really good, I'm going to give these a try I think.

Yep, new WRX and STi share the same front bar.
WRX boarder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 10:17 PM   #37
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default Broken Bolt Update

So, regarding that broken bolt. The fix was simple.

I used an 8.3mm bit and simply drilled through the sheet metal.

I used a string bar magnet to catch and clean up all of those nasty metal shavings. The magnet worked beautifully. See photo...

Then I used an 8mm flange bolt and an 8mm flange nut.

A perfect fix that's probably stronger than the factory threaded screw thats welded to the car.

Here is a photo of the fix as well...

the fixed bolt....


the magnet with all of the shavings...
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 10:25 PM   #38
HAL1
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 58926
Join Date: Apr 2004
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ - Chandler
Vehicle:
2013 WRX 5dr ISM
2011 Infiniti EX35

Default

So, i'f I'm lazy or unsure, the short version story is that I call my Subaru service department and say "hey, please order and install the STi rear swaybar and bushings" and that's it?

The link on that part seems to say "Impreza STi Sway Bar Rear 2010-2012 19mm" Is this right?

Also, I read that this upgrade makes it easier for the wheels to break loose (from the pavement), is this true? I'm not a wild man nor do i go to the track?

Last edited by HAL1; 05-02-2013 at 10:59 PM.
HAL1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 10:36 PM   #39
lordgrinz
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 293423
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Western MA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Limited 5dr
WRB SPT/Stock

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HAL1 View Post
So, i'f I'm lazy or unsure, the short version is I call my Subaru service department and say "hey, please order and install the STi rear swaybar and bushings" and that's it?

The link on tghat part seems to say "Impreza STi Sway Bar Rear 2010-2012 19mm" Is this right?

Also, I read that this upgrade makes it easier for the wheels to break loose (from the pavement), is this true? I'm not a wild man nor do i go to the track?
If you don't notice the rear swinging way out while the front sticks, then I don't think you need the rear STi bar. I however did not like the feeling, but with the STi bar, the car finally feels balanced. I should also state I have the H-Brace installed as well, so not sure how much that contributes, all my options were installed at once.
lordgrinz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2013, 11:23 PM   #40
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default

By the way, I would like to say that I noticed a vast improvement with my new Eibach front and rear sway bars. In my opinion, the WRX, in its stock form, just has a lot of body roll and really needs flattening out. These new sway bars do not change the comfort of the ride at all. The ride is very smooth and a great daily driver. What it does do, is reduces the amount of body roll when turning in harder than a normal turn.

After installing both bars, I took my car for a test drive and immediately noticed a difference. With no change to the springs, regular straight driving and going over bumps felt exactly the same. But the magic occurs when I aggressively took a few turns. I also found an empty road that I knew was completely clear and safe, and proceeded to slalom some invisible cones.

Boy oh boy, this car is a new animal. It feels solid, level, and sure footed. Today, on Imy way home, it was lightly misting and a little bit rainy. The roads were slick So I turned off traction control for a few nice turns. The car slid a little bit as it normally would, but the stability and levelness of the car was absolutely superb. As I've learned now in driving a Subaru, a little bit of throttle corrects the all-wheel-drive system in this car is incredible. It just digs in and does not lose grip. Remember, this was on the damp slick roads, and I, at no point, was ever worried at all about losing control or sliding out or having any single second where I was not fully in control of the car.

I also have read on different forums that these heavier bars might cause issues in keeping control of the car. But now that I'm on day three or four, I can tell you that it's nothing to worry about at all. I'm 41 years old, drive carpool on a daily basis, and am not out there as a wild man either. I simply wanted a more level car with less body roll. If this is the result of the heavier 22 mm and 25 mm sway bars by Eibach, then I can say for sure that a single bar replacement from the STI will not make nearly as much of a difference.

I'm very happy with my purchase. I have nothing to compare It to, but it's so much better than stock.
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2013, 11:04 AM   #41
jm020
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 353194
Join Date: Apr 2013
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Broomfield, CO
Vehicle:
2013 WRX Limited
ISM

Default

I installed the rear part of the kit on my WRX last night. I started with the rear, and actually that's all I got done so far...The removal of the stock parts took all of about 5 minutes, however snaking the new bar in, that's a different story. I am not a puzzle guy, and I should have taken more of a note as far as how I was able to remove the stock bar. I spent about 30 minutes trying to snake it into place, different ways to put it in, to no avail. I do have the SPT exhaust, which it would bump up against, so i'm not sure if that was a problem or not, but it was PITA. I ended up jacking up one side of the car to decompress one of the a-arms, and after gaining about 1" from that, it slid into place. I then re-compressed that side, let it settle in, and attached the endlinks, and d-brackets. I torqued it to spec as to not snap any bolts off. I actually didn't have too much trouble coaxing the end links into place, and I put it on the stiff setting. After completing the rear, and it being about 10 at night, I decided to wait on the front and took it for a spin. WOW what a difference. Way less body roll, and much less under-steer as well.

I plan on installing the front this evening. Hopefully will go a bit smoother as I don't think there is much snaking/puzzle type stuff to get the bar into place. I am interested to see if I will notice as much of a difference with the front as I did in the rear.

Another note is on my commute into work today, I didn't notice any difference in the ride quality. Not any stiffer or anything noticeable.

I ordered the 7718.320 kit off of tirerack, and got it in about 2 or 3 days (very quick). When I opened up the kit, I noticed the rear bar's part number was 7717.312 on the install paper, and it also has 08-09 WRX listed. I called Eibach and they confirmed this is in fact the correct part, they just hadn't updated the install paperwork. The front bar is also 7718.310, but they confirmed that is also the right size for my model year ('12, they don't have any info for the '13 yet, but its the same).
jm020 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2013, 01:23 PM   #42
snapmarc
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 312393
Join Date: Mar 2012
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:
2012 WRX 5-Door
Dark Metallic Gray

Default

The rear was a PITA for sure. It was a puzzle. You sort of have to angle the bar away and then rock it into place. Once you do it, it's like, "oooooh, I get it" and then your arms are burning from laying on your back frustrated and getting hit in the forehead with the bar. Funny stuff.

The front is easy, but many bolts to remove with the stiffener and the splash cover. I had to get a breaker bar to remove the 10 bolts from the stiffener. The bar goes right on, and then the stiffener and then the splash guard.

Torque to specs for sure. Read my story and you'll see I broke a bolt. The fix was easy and the sways have been a dream. I have pushed them pretty hard and they feel great. There is always a touch of doubt when you do something yourself, but so far, so good.

Enjoy! Post some pics of your ride. Let's see it!
snapmarc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-01-2013, 07:03 PM   #43
12WRXPBPHATCH
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 331857
Join Date: Sep 2012
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Chi-Town
Vehicle:
2012 WRX Hatch
PBM

Default

Went with Eibach F/R sways, Perrin Poly end links and Whiteline sway bar mount suppots. The best upgrade yet. They really do transform the cars handling. Its really not as difficult to install as some claim it to be. Spent more time wiping stuff down underneath than I did installing the bars. Like others have said, the car should have come like this from the factory.
12WRXPBPHATCH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-07-2013, 12:35 PM   #44
mitoda
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 301053
Join Date: Nov 2011
Default

Hey guys, I also bought the Eibach Front and rear kit, I initially had on soft / soft, but then decided for soft (Fr.) and hard (rear). Although body roll has been minimized, the car still understeers at the very beginning of a turn (with minimal to no gas) and then snaps oversteers (mid corner), don't know if if I like my 2011 wrx been that unpredictable.

My question is if I should swap the front sway bar with the stock, or should I switch the front setting to hard to match the rear bar.

Thanks.
mitoda is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:45 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.