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Old 11-23-2012, 02:23 PM   #26
iambigsteveo
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Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I am trying to figure out how to optimize the audio quality running to my aftermarket sub using the factory head unit. I tapped into the speaker wires running the audio signal to the amp which takes speaker inputs. I have amp remote turn on wire connected to the accessory wire behind the head. The sub works and it sounds mediocre, sounding like it's not capturing the lows really well. I am assuming because it's receiving the audio signal from the speakers rather than from the head unit. Could this problem be solved if I were to use the T harness for the OEM sub?
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Old 11-23-2012, 04:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iambigsteveo
Sorry for resurrecting an old thread but I am trying to figure out how to optimize the audio quality running to my aftermarket sub using the factory head unit. I tapped into the speaker wires running the audio signal to the amp which takes speaker inputs. I have amp remote turn on wire connected to the accessory wire behind the head. The sub works and it sounds mediocre, sounding like it's not capturing the lows really well. I am assuming because it's receiving the audio signal from the speakers rather than from the head unit. Could this problem be solved if I were to use the T harness for the OEM sub?
I had the same problem using the speaker inputs on an amp and switched to the audiocontrol LC2i and it is a million times better. I just think the output off the factory head is terrible. The Lc2i corrects the signal for the amp. Makes a huge difference in sound

As far as at the speakers or headunit, it doesn't make a difference, however if your tapping the rears to make it easier, than that is your issue. The fronts are where the factory head sends the bulk of the signal for bass.

Try switching your radio to through mode to see if that changes anything. If it doesn't and you are hooked up to the rears, switch them to the fronts and it will be better. Add the lc 2i and it will be worlds better.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:19 PM   #28
iambigsteveo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsn112 View Post

I had the same problem using the speaker inputs on an amp and switched to the audiocontrol LC2i and it is a million times better. I just think the output off the factory head is terrible. The Lc2i corrects the signal for the amp. Makes a huge difference in sound

As far as at the speakers or headunit, it doesn't make a difference, however if your tapping the rears to make it easier, than that is your issue. The fronts are where the factory head sends the bulk of the signal for bass.

Try switching your radio to through mode to see if that changes anything. If it doesn't and you are hooked up to the rears, switch them to the fronts and it will be better. Add the lc 2i and it will be worlds better.
It's interesting you say to use the LC2i because I bought that when I went through the installation of the sub and it didn't work. Perhaps it was because I was tapping into the rear speaker. But at any rate, it wouldn't auto turn on and I spent hours trying to figure out and I just didn't work. Ran the remote turn on wire to the lc2i and it turned on but the sound coming out of the sub was terrible. Took the lc2i out of the mix by running the audio directly to the amp it sounded better but still not much for the lows. I determined the lc2i to be defective and returned it and am living with my system the way it is. Perhaps I may try running the wires to the front speakers if you think that is where the power is primarily being supplied to.
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:04 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ngordon28 View Post
Has anyone upgraded the amp on the factory sub-woofer with positive results? I am thinking about usingRockford Fosgate Punch PBR300X1 Car Amplifier - 75 W @ 4 Ohm to power the kicker sub. Any thoughts?

I just don't like the way the factory sub sounds. It's way too muddy. I'm hoping that the Rockford amp controls will help, if not then new sub in the factory same box. This is my wife's car but I regret buying the sub and want to see if I can make the best of it. Didn't expect that I wouldn't be able to control the way the sub sounds.
Did you end up doing this? I have been having the same thought and can't find anything about just upgrading the amp or even adding an active cross over.
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Old 05-05-2013, 04:45 AM   #30
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Just wanted to poke my head in and say that SVXdc is one of the most informative audio guys on this board. He helped me purchase and create my own harness for an unde-rseat subwoofer that I purchased for a 2002 RS way back in the day. His parts are solid. Would be nice SVXdc if you can offer the correct parts to make our own Kicker Sub Harness'.
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Old 05-11-2013, 09:51 PM   #31
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I decided to venture down a route I hadn't seen any one take yet. Based of what little data about the subwoofer I could actually find I bought the Rockford Fosgate PRB300X1 amplifier. Side note, it almost fits into the stock amplifier location on the backside of the OEM box but not quite. Any way, I severed the wires of the harness on the SUBWOOFER side of the harness (at the connection point of the harness coming from the HU and the subwoofer harness) allowing enough wire length to strip and connect to the highlevel input connection that came with the amp. I used the "power wire" powering the original amp and used that as my 12v turn on wire (remote), ran the 10gauge power wire from the battery (Super easy to hide and run back, I'd say less than 5 minutes), and used the mounting bold of the subwoofer box as the grounding point (no need to drill holes into the metal). As for the speaker wires, I cut those at the mid way point (coming out of the box to the OEM amp) and wired up some 14gauge speaker wire to my new RF amp. If you're curious the black cable is hooked up to the positive terminal of the sub and the grey negative; at least on my kicker it was. After all was hooked up and wired I put in the 30 amp fuse into the power wire, fired up the radio and from what I can notice it's a ridiculous difference over the stock amp. Now reason for doing this; on nice days I like to drive with the windows down and sunroof open. This allows for alot of wind noise and I like my bass (former audiophile but didn't want to break the bank), I found at high volumes (28+ with bass at 4-5, and 30+ with bass at 4) the speakers bottom out causing sound distortion and since the sub input ran off speaker wires (at least as far as I could find) caused the sub to cut out; pissing me off at a relatively good level. So, I weighed my options and having liked the fact that the OEM unit as a whole fit so well and out of the way I didn't want to give up any trunk space. Then I found the PRB300x1. specs fit well, small and easy to install or hide if you desire so I bought it thinking WTH give it a whirl. Got the amp and the recommended 10gauge kit off ebay for 150 and free shipping; not bad. I installed it all and had everything hooked up in 90 minutes or less. I have yet to drive with the windows down but with this extra control at the subwoofer I can leave my bass at 2-3, run high volumes with out the speakers (front) distorting and the subwoofer no longer cuts out. Even having not driven with the windows down yet I'm extremely happy with my purchase and small but significant upgrade. Oh, reason I haven't done my "wind" test yet is its been raining the last few days; I snuck the install in between rain drops...yes that fast (if you know what you're doing). I'll be happy to answer questions and sorry for no pics yet. Like I said I was doing it between rain drops. My personal review of the OEM unit as it is from the dealer, I makes a difference. I did listen to a 2011 wrx non nav sound system and I must say it sucks, no news there so I opted for the oem sub option. It was good but driving with the windows down was disappointing to say the least due to reasons listed above. Currently with it powered by my new RF amp, sounds amazing, mids and low bass are much better and I'll have much better control once I wire in the RF punch EQ remote (another 20 from ebay). I'll take any questions or ideas about my install and review.
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Old 05-11-2013, 11:12 PM   #32
XERO287
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So.much.text.so.little.spaces.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:49 PM   #33
SVXdc
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Seriously! As XERO287 hinted, WHITESPACE is a good thing! Many people won't bother reading a huge block of text like that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptak View Post
I decided to venture down a route I hadn't seen any one take yet. Based of what little data about the subwoofer I could actually find I bought the Rockford Fosgate PRB300X1 amplifier.

Side note, it almost fits into the stock amplifier location on the backside of the OEM box but not quite.

Any way, I severed the wires of the harness on the SUBWOOFER side of the harness (at the connection point of the harness coming from the HU and the subwoofer harness) allowing enough wire length to strip and connect to the high level input connection that came with the amp.

I used the "power wire" powering the original amp and used that as my 12v turn on wire (remote), ran the 10 gauge power wire from the battery (Super easy to hide and run back, I'd say less than 5 minutes), and used the mounting bolt of the subwoofer box as the grounding point (no need to drill holes into the metal).

As for the speaker wires, I cut those at the mid way point (coming out of the box to the OEM amp) and wired up some 14 gauge speaker wire to my new RF amp.

If you're curious the black cable is hooked up to the positive terminal of the sub and the grey negative; at least on my kicker it was.

After all was hooked up and wired I put in the 30 amp fuse into the power wire, fired up the radio and from what I can notice it's a ridiculous difference over the stock amp.

Now reason for doing this; on nice days I like to drive with the windows down and sunroof open. This allows for a lot of wind noise and I like my bass (former audiophile but didn't want to break the bank).

I found at high volumes (28+ with bass at 4-5, and 30+ with bass at 4) the speakers bottom out causing sound distortion and since the sub input ran off speaker wires (at least as far as I could find) caused the sub to cut out; pissing me off at a relatively good level. So, I weighed my options and having liked the fact that the OEM unit as a whole fit so well and out of the way I didn't want to give up any trunk space.

Then I found the PRB300x1. specs fit well, small and easy to install or hide if you desire so I bought it thinking WTH give it a whirl. Got the amp and the recommended 10 gauge kit off ebay for 150 and free shipping; not bad. I installed it all and had everything hooked up in 90 minutes or less.

I have yet to drive with the windows down but with this extra control at the subwoofer I can leave my bass at 2-3, run high volumes with out the speakers (front) distorting and the subwoofer no longer cuts out.

Even having not driven with the windows down yet I'm extremely happy with my purchase and small but significant upgrade.

Oh, reason I haven't done my "wind" test yet is its been raining the last few days; I snuck the install in between rain drops...yes that fast (if you know what you're doing).

I'll be happy to answer questions and sorry for no pics yet. Like I said I was doing it between rain drops.

My personal review of the OEM unit as it is from the dealer, I makes a difference.

I did listen to a 2011 wrx non nav sound system and I must say it sucks, no news there so I opted for the oem sub option. It was good but driving with the windows down was disappointing to say the least due to reasons listed above.

Currently with it powered by my new RF amp, sounds amazing, mids and low bass are much better and I'll have much better control once I wire in the RF punch EQ remote (another 20 from ebay).

I'll take any questions or ideas about my install and review.

Last edited by SVXdc; 05-14-2013 at 02:36 AM.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:55 PM   #34
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptak View Post
...
I used the "power wire" powering the original amp and used that as my 12v turn on wire (remote), ran the 10 gauge power wire from the battery
...
The power wire coming from the factory radio harness (which the Subaru Kicker harness used to power the original amp) is +12V Battery/Constant. The Kicker's original amp has a circuit to detect sound and shut off after a period of silence.

So you really need to change your amp remote turn-on to tap the +12V Accessory (key-switched) power lead. If you'd rather not mess with the original Kicker harness behind the HU, you can tap that power from elsewhere in the car (e.g., fuse panel in driver's footwell) and run the wire back to the subwoofer.

Last edited by SVXdc; 05-13-2013 at 10:01 PM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:00 PM   #35
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I had the same issues with the sub in my hatch and was disappointed when I got it. I was able to find some direct plug in harnesses and threw a dual gang 100k potentiometer on those harnesses and I now have a volume control on the sub. Cost about 15 dollars. Put a low pass choke on it as well and that further cleaned up the tone. Just FYI for those searching on how to deal with this!
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
The power wire coming from the factory radio harness (which the Subaru Kicker harness used to power the original amp) is +12V Battery/Constant. The Kicker's original amp has a circuit to detect sound and shut off after a period of silence.

So you really need to change your amp remote turn-on to tap the +12V Accessory (key-switched) power lead. If you'd rather not mess with the original Kicker harness behind the HU, you can tap that power from elsewhere in the car (e.g., fuse panel in driver's footwell) and run the wire back to the subwoofer.
Gravity also makes a 20 dollar line level device that creates a remote amp on signal the same way the stock amp does if you want to give that a go instead. 20 bucks on amazon.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turfburn View Post
I had the same issues with the sub in my hatch and was disappointed when I got it. I was able to find some direct plug in harnesses and threw a dual gang 100k potentiometer on those harnesses and I now have a volume control on the sub. Cost about 15 dollars. Put a low pass choke on it as well and that further cleaned up the tone. Just FYI for those searching on how to deal with this!
turfburn - would you please throw together some install steps to add these 2 items to the OEM sub? I purchased the entire Kicker upgrade kit for my car and I can't even use the darn sub. Really frustrating!

Thanks!

Chris
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:49 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turfburn View Post
I had the same issues with the sub in my hatch and was disappointed when I got it. I was able to find some direct plug in harnesses and threw a dual gang 100k potentiometer on those harnesses and I now have a volume control on the sub. Cost about 15 dollars. Put a low pass choke on it as well and that further cleaned up the tone. Just FYI for those searching on how to deal with this!
turfburn - would you please throw together some install steps to add these 2 items to the OEM sub? I'm sure there'd be MANY people most grateful!

I purchased the entire Kicker upgrade kit for my car and I can't even use the darn sub. Really frustrating!

Thanks!

Chris
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:41 PM   #39
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Here are the links for the parts and some photos. You will have to move pins around in the harnesses to get it to work, but you can do that with a small pick or screwdriver pretty easily.

Here are links for everything:

https://plus.google.com/photos/10246...KKc2b3aupDWzQE

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062359

Ebay Choke:
Treble Blocker Low Pass Crossover 160hz 4ohm Sub Woofer (290396059206)

Ebay source of harnesses:
Best Kits Mazda 1990-2001 12/8 Pin Aftermarket Harness (400128801187)

Harness Part numbers:
BHA7901
BHO7901
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:00 PM   #40
subwrx2014
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I know is an old thread, but it helped me out today, so i wanted to simply say thanks for the part numbers and pic's!

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Old 01-24-2014, 10:31 PM   #41
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did u get this to work, i cannot make the wires on the bottom side..
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