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Old 05-10-2013, 05:09 PM   #1
juandering
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Default OEM underseat sub trouble

I bought an underseat sub awhile back ago with the wiring harness. The packaging was terrible and it ended up not working when I plugged it in. The seller ended up giving me my money back so I'm just trying to see if I'd be able to fix it.
Checked the fuse, it was good but I replaced it anyways, still didn't work.
As far as the harness goes, it is getting power and the grounds are all good so my friend and I were thinking it has to be in the sub. Took the sub apart and I couldn't find any disconnects although I'm not that experienced in circuit boards, the power wires between the sub and the the circuit were good.
Does anyone have any advice on what to look for as to why its not working?

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Old 05-10-2013, 08:28 PM   #2
tru scoob
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read where it says "MADE IN CHINA"
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:06 PM   #3
Mulder
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Unfortunately we can't tell you anything just by looking at a pic of the board other than that nothing appears visibly burnt.
There are no schematics available for it AFAIK. Someone who knows electronics could mess with it and maybe get somewhere, but it's not really worth it.
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:55 PM   #4
juandering
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Yeah I was just seeing if anyone had any knowledge on it. I'd prefer to not scrap it though since its still a sub.

I was thinking of maybe just taking the sub by itself and using it inside the housing without the board
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Old 05-11-2013, 12:28 AM   #5
cjayh85
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If the sub still works, you may get better sound putting it in another box. I'm assuming it's an 8" woofer and if I read the back correctly 120w max at 8 ohms, maybe use it in a home stereo setup instead? Or keep it in that enclosure and get a small amp to drive it, that should be more reliable.
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Old 05-11-2013, 02:14 AM   #6
juandering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjayh85 View Post
If the sub still works, you may get better sound putting it in another box. I'm assuming it's an 8" woofer and if I read the back correctly 120w max at 8 ohms, maybe use it in a home stereo setup instead? Or keep it in that enclosure and get a small amp to drive it, that should be more reliable.
That's what I was thinking about doing. Just get rid of the board and replace it with a small amp and just wire it directly. I'd still prefer to keep it so that it'd fit under the seat and yeah, its an 8" sub.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:49 PM   #7
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Look closely at the small braided wires going from the speaker terminals into the speaker coil. A common problem is for one of those to break. Almost impossible to fix.

Test another source (such as a small, battery powered radio) connected directly to the speaker, to see if that still works. If not, try another speaker (any kind) temporarily connected to the sub amp. Start with the gain knob all the way down.

Long shot, but you can test whether the amp's sound-detect circuit has failed. Jumper from the +12V lead to the amp remote turn-on lead (pin #6, has no wire from the OEM harness).

What is the model number on the outside of the sub?
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:59 PM   #8
juandering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc View Post
Look closely at the small braided wires going from the speaker terminals into the speaker coil. A common problem is for one of those to break. Almost impossible to fix.

Test another source (such as a small, battery powered radio) connected directly to the speaker, to see if that still works. If not, try another speaker (any kind) temporarily connected to the sub amp. Start with the gain knob all the way down.

Long shot, but you can test whether the amp's sound-detect circuit has failed. Jumper from the +12V lead to the amp remote turn-on lead (pin #6, has no wire from the OEM harness).

What is the model number on the outside of the sub?
Ah thanks for letting me know that. I just checked the ground braided cable and it is indeed snapped. Soldering wouldn't work to easily fix it?

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Old 05-14-2013, 02:23 AM   #9
SVXdc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juandering View Post
Ah thanks for letting me know that. I just checked the ground braided cable and it is indeed snapped. Soldering wouldn't work to easily fix it?
You can try. But what usually happens is the braid becomes inflexible (and brittle). When the sub vibrates, it quickly snaps that wire again.

You really would need to replace the entire length with a new braided wire, soldering only at the ends.

Or weave some new wire threads into the braid.

Perhaps you could glue the break with superglue?

Not worth the effort.

See my subwoofer posts for a source for a replacement speaker.
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