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Old 05-13-2013, 06:19 PM   #26
panel
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Oil pan is trimmed and the tank I hope to not cut into. I think a 90deg 3" off the throttle body will get it out of the way without flipping the intake. As for the intercooler I'll probably keep it air-air with a fan on it for now. I'll just re-do the 'IN' side and just do one in instead of two in's.
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:41 PM   #27
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I'm guessing an STi engine would require major cutting around the battery tray area to fit? The DOHC heads I believe are much bigger than the WRX SOHC heads.

Do you think going rotated with MAF delete and running speed density would free up any space? You could quite literally run a 6" or less intake/coupler between the turbo inlet and the air filter. All you would really need would be to plumb your purge valve to vacuum, and an AOS if you chose... Or do you think it will work better having the inlet under the intake manifold?

Actually, nevermind lol - I just looked at your first picture and it looks like you already have a turbo with the engine, so I'm assuming definitely not entertaining the rotated idea.
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Old 05-14-2013, 04:54 PM   #28
panel
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What's AOS and how hard is it to delete the MAF etc ?
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Old 05-14-2013, 06:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by panel View Post
What's AOS and how hard is it to delete the MAF etc ?
AOS is an air oil separator. It keeps oil out of your intake tract, specifically keeping your intercooler clean. This in turn helps your intercooler maintain efficiency. An AOS will also keep oil vapors out of your intake manifold - oil vapors in your fresh intake effectively reduces your octane and can cause detonation, and reduces power and amount of timing you can run.

Honestly, with a stock engine, it probably isn't worth running an AOS. I do, but my car is anything but stock.

Deleting the MAF is simple. Just get an intake that doesn't have a maf on it, and relocate your IAT (intake air temperature) to your intake manifold under your throttle body. You will need to get tuned for speed density. I think it's more flexible and allows you to run a simple intake design. My build thread HERE has a lot of information on running speed density, my rotated setup as well as my intake. There is a lot of information to sort through. I am in a hurry now, but I can always post a link to a relevant post.

Really excited to see the progress of this build.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:40 PM   #30
Hondaslayer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Type2 View Post
I'm guessing an STi engine would require major cutting around the battery tray area to fit? The DOHC heads I believe are much bigger than the WRX SOHC heads.

Do you think going rotated with MAF delete and running speed density would free up any space? You could quite literally run a 6" or less intake/coupler between the turbo inlet and the air filter. All you would really need would be to plumb your purge valve to vacuum, and an AOS if you chose... Or do you think it will work better having the inlet under the intake manifold?

Actually, nevermind lol - I just looked at your first picture and it looks like you already have a turbo with the engine, so I'm assuming definitely not entertaining the rotated idea.
STI engine is the same size as a WRX engine, both are DOHC. STI is basically a larger turbo (in terms of component sizes, there are other differences)


Anyway, to the OP just flip the intake manifold. It is easy to do, especially in your case since the alternator can go in the place of the AC compressor or the PS pump.
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Old 05-19-2013, 01:47 AM   #31
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Not a lot done but lengthened the crankcase vent to accommodate my oil pressure sensor and installed the rest of the cooling pipes back on after the welding was done. I bought the NPT oil gallery adapter from the dealer which was only $10.





And my MAF adapter just got made also.



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Old 05-19-2013, 11:41 AM   #32
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panel,
nice work, i like that lil trick with the oil pressure sensor positioning. may have to steal that

im looking forward to the maf positioning for laminar flow. i did see a honey comb like tube somewhere to bolt the maf to that look interesting.
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:03 PM   #33
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Got my two into one 1 3/4" merge collector back from my Day for Father's Day 8) Added the in/out water fittings from Earls.(Coast Industrial) and the oil drain is on there now too.



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Old 06-17-2013, 12:47 AM   #34
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this is a really sweet build!

Just a little fyi... the galley plug you buy from the dealership is not NPT threads, they're PT threads... Almost the same but still different. Will probably work correctly but just double check that it doesn't leak when you prime the system.
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Old 06-17-2013, 10:47 PM   #35
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Zefy , thanks. All of this (Subaru) is new to me
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Old 06-18-2013, 11:02 AM   #36
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That bus is beautiful. So why the swap? You already had power so I'm assuming reliability?
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:17 AM   #37
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^^ geronimo81.......Reliability and just general OEM proven longevity performance, turn key reliability , heat , the list goes on

Got some smaller little things taken care of. I saw a lot of guys flipping their coolant manifolds around so the outlet faces the front of the vehicle. At first I wasn't even going to take the intake off but seeing as though it won't be on the road this summer I think this will give it a cleaner look and more of a direct shot at the radiator. It's not really flipped but re-located.

Original way(below)



Aftermarket sender location on left 1/8NPT and the OEM coolant location on the right.







This hole will be blocked off (welded in the below pic)



I also was trying to get an AN fitting from my bulkhead to go from 3/8 to 5/16 for the fuel supply line and Coast was coming up empty and online so I cut off the original hard line and will get a 3/8 steel fitting tiged on there. This actually in the end is a nicer way for the fuel layout than I was going for. Originally it was coming in right near the return line above the intake manifold and kinda looked ugly.

Complex curved steel line routing



Clean and simple routing

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Old 03-06-2014, 11:15 PM   #38
panel
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I've been collecting some more goodies:

These are some aluminum block off plates so I can relocated the 'IN' side I'll go with one big in rather than two 'ins'.





K & N from GCVW this summer





VSS Vehicle Speed Sensor from Amazon



Throttle cable stop. The OEM one looked bad and I only needed the one hole

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Old 03-06-2014, 11:16 PM   #39
panel
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Here's a bit of the workings of my radiator cooling system. First is the OEM plastic end tanks. Bulky and ugly for sure.



Here's the overview with it all mocked up etc.Rubber hose in there for affect.



Fan switch. I'll be running a stand alone with dual fans. This one is a 10" and another 10" on the way.



5/16" return line to the tank on the intake



Here is the aluminum end tanks at a closer look. They were rectangular before this but just cut in half.

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Old 03-06-2014, 11:19 PM   #40
panel
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Not much to report other than getting something in from USPS from http://www.siliconeintakes.com

Got a reducer at the turbo end and 2 x 90 deg for the TB and intercooler to connect. I also got my other fan and nice 'T' bolt clamps.



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Old 03-06-2014, 11:20 PM   #41
panel
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Not much to report but see below the progress.

Got the flex plate off and the adapter plate on,flywheel and back on the stand.



Had a nice aluminum sheet metal plate made up from my Dad to hold all the little boost components.





And also working on the heim joint adjuster for the alternator.

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Old 03-10-2014, 05:27 PM   #42
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this is going to be awesome.
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Old 03-17-2014, 11:13 PM   #43
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Make sure to pipe the two heater core lines back to each other in a loop rather than plugging them. If you look at coolant flow diagrams in a service manual you'll see that circuit serves to equalize temps around the engine.

With them blocked the heads overheat, especially 1/3 head (I know from terrible experience of cooking a recently built motor)
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Old 04-29-2014, 08:59 PM   #44
panel
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Ok will do thanks for the heads up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by subaroket View Post
Make sure to pipe the two heater core lines back to each other in a loop rather than plugging them. If you look at coolant flow diagrams in a service manual you'll see that circuit serves to equalize temps around the engine.

With them blocked the heads overheat, especially 1/3 head (I know from terrible experience of cooking a recently built motor)
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:54 PM   #45
panel
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Shoe horned her in today for one of many mock ups.

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Old 07-23-2014, 03:23 PM   #46
bigolrig
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awesome!! i wish i could to this to my pops 65 bus!
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