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Old 05-30-2013, 06:25 PM   #51
zaxman
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It will probably come back as a 20 grade so don't be alarmed. It starts as a thin 30 grade. Bugeye's are typically easier on oil though. Got mods?

-Dennis
Bolt-ons. Stock bottom-end.

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Old 05-30-2013, 06:42 PM   #52
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This is going to be interesting. No cheating with the uoa (eg topping up with Rotella)!

-Dennis
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Old 05-30-2013, 06:46 PM   #53
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This is going to be interesting


Well that's quite a blow to my confidence. I'll be changing out the oil this weekend, so I should have the kit in the mail by Monday.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:39 PM   #54
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Well that's quite a blow to my confidence. I'll be changing out the oil this weekend, so I should have the kit in the mail by Monday.
German Castrol 0W-30 or Belgian Castrol 0W-40 FTW.

-Dennis
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:55 PM   #55
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German Castrol 0W-30 or Belgian Castrol 0W-40 FTW.

-Dennis
I've not been able to find GC anywhere. I'm assuming the preferred method is to have a case shipped via an online resource?

I've seen very little UOA results on US Castrol Edge Titanium. The fact that you say it should come back closer to a 20w suggests that you have seen UOAs on Castrol Edge. The car has been fed standard Castrol dino (not GC) for the majority of its life, receiving the bump to synthetic Castrol about 30k miles ago (75k miles). This will be my first UOA, though I should have done it much sooner. You clearly have a fantastic amount of knowledge in UOAs and oil constituents, so I ask you: is there a reason you feel that US Castrol Edge Titanium is not making the cut with my current modifications? If so, I'd like to switch NOW even before I receive my UOA results back. I've heard the bold claims regarding film strength and adhesion made by Castrol, but I'm sure (like many things), they are marketing tactics. If the above applies, to which oil SHOULD I make the switch?

Thanks Dennis.


- Zach


EDIT:
AHA! I knew you seemed familiar:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=2419385

Last edited by zaxman; 05-30-2013 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 05-30-2013, 11:07 PM   #56
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Actually, is it true that the Castrol Syntec in the black bottle is GC?
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:19 PM   #57
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Sigh. I'm as guilty as others in this thread of going off topic, but let's stop here. This thread is for posting UOAs, not oil selection.

The only GC is Castrol Edge with Syntec 0w30. Castrol has changed the bottles several times in the last couple of years, but GC is the only 0w30 Castrol sells in the US.

You don't really need a UOA to know Edge with Ti will come back as a 20wt. It starts out at 9.8 cSt, and the border between 20wt and 30wt is 9.3 cSt, it simply doesn't have far to go. There are a couple Edge-Ti UOAs over at BITOG though, one recently in an Ecoboost F150 that was pretty darn thin.
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:21 PM   #58
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Yeah, I'm terribly sorry, that's my fault. I like to keep these threads on track as well. Unfortunately for me, Oil is something of which I have very little knowledge. I'm absorbing as much as I can!
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Old 06-01-2013, 10:19 AM   #59
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Sigh. I'm as guilty as others in this thread of going off topic, but let's stop here. This thread is for posting UOAs, not oil selection.

The only GC is Castrol Edge with Syntec 0w30. Castrol has changed the bottles several times in the last couple of years, but GC is the only 0w30 Castrol sells in the US.

You don't really need a UOA to know Edge with Ti will come back as a 20wt. It starts out at 9.8 cSt, and the border between 20wt and 30wt is 9.3 cSt, it simply doesn't have far to go. There are a couple Edge-Ti UOAs over at BITOG though, one recently in an Ecoboost F150 that was pretty darn thin.
Ha. He's going to be posting a uoa on Edge Ti so I thought it was on topic since I was predicting the outcome. Sorry Mr. Thread Police. Maybe I should start a uoa prediction thread: "The low 20 grade viscosity and the 1.5% fuel dilution do not appear to be hurting anything. Try 10,000 miles next time. Great wearing Subaru!"

And now back to our regularly scheduled program.

-Dennis
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Old 06-02-2013, 08:59 PM   #60
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Hey, man, I'm just trying to keep this potentially useful thread un-cluttered. I really am as guilty as the next guy...
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Old 06-03-2013, 05:01 PM   #61
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Little history with my car.

I'm at 13.5k miles now. I dumped the factory fill at 1k miles. Did my first UOA of PP (posted on page 1) at 2900 miles. I'm stilll running PP but going to go for around 4k miles this time.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:53 AM   #62
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'04 WRX UOA done right after I bought it. ~135600mi

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Old 06-05-2013, 10:51 AM   #63
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Do you know what oil that is? Just something the previous owner/dealer put in?

Off the top of my head it looks a lot like Pennzoil conventional or Syn-blend. Possibly Pennzoil High-Mileage, though the Zn and P levels look too low for PHM.

Your engine seems to be healthy. What did you put back in?
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Old 06-05-2013, 12:10 PM   #64
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I agree. Something seems a little off for "Pennzoil synthetic" or even PYB. I don't believe any Pennzoil uses that much Mg. Valvoline maybe?

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 06-05-2013 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 06-05-2013, 02:31 PM   #65
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Possibly Maxlife blend or Maxlife Nextgen, but none of the other Valvoline formulas have that much Moly. ML Syn is 75-100 PPM IIRC.

Edit: I should say the new SN Maxlife Synthetic is 75-100 PPM Moly, the old SM and SL formulas were ~250 PPM.

Last edited by gpshumway; 06-05-2013 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:36 PM   #66
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Do you know what oil that is? Just something the previous owner/dealer put in?

Off the top of my head it looks a lot like Pennzoil conventional or Syn-blend. Possibly Pennzoil High-Mileage, though the Zn and P levels look too low for PHM.

Your engine seems to be healthy. What did you put back in?
PO said he used synthetic, honestly I have no idea. I replaced it with Motul 8100 X-cess 5W40 and a Subaru filter.
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Old 06-05-2013, 11:48 PM   #67
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Without knowing the oil, the UOA is not real useful to anybody else, but thanks for posting it any way. I'd be nice to know, it looks like a decent oil and it stayed in grade.

Post one with the Motul when you change it. Are you going to run it long enough to make doing a TBN worthwhile?

Last edited by gpshumway; 06-06-2013 at 02:41 PM. Reason: ? key broken?
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:50 AM   #68
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Post one with the Motul when you change it. Are you going to run it long enough to make doing a TBN worthwhile.
+1. See the 9,000 mile run on X-cess above. I would probably run to 5 or 6k and take a sample for a uoa and not drain the oil.

-Dennis
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Old 06-06-2013, 01:10 PM   #69
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This was the first UOA I did, which was on my second oil change. I swapped out the Castrol Edge 5w30 synth for AMSOIL's 5w30 Euro blend:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...tic-motor-oil/

Here's the first UOA:






When I did my next oil change I grabbed another UOA. However, it completely slipped my mind that I needed to have the little white vial right next to me when I started to drain, so I ended up getting my sample from pouring oil into the vial from my oil collection pan. Ultimately, I believe this affected the results of the sample. I refilled this with another 5L of AMSOIL 5w30 Euro:



I recently did another oil change, but haven't had the chance to send in my sample. I replaced the 5w30 with AMSOIL's 5w40 FULL SAPS Euro, which is currently in my car now: http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...motor-oil-efm/

I should also mention that I use the OEM blue Subaru filters. I change them and the crush washer each oil change.

Last edited by 1wrxtra; 06-06-2013 at 10:25 PM.
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Old 06-06-2013, 02:52 PM   #70
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The Subaru syn seems to have done pretty well. It stayed in grade better than previous UOAs we've seen. Too bad you didn't get the TBN. I'm sure it's fine at 5,200 mi, but TbN has been a bit weak in other Subaru syn UOAs, so more data would be good.

It's hard to know how much taking the sample from the drain pan affected the UOA results, it looks pretty darn good though. 11.44 cSt is nominally only 6% shear from the 12.2 cSt the oil starts at. This stuff is near as makes no difference 40wt. The Iron is a bit high, but without more data it's certainly nothing to worry about in a young engine.

It would be really nice to see a TBN with one of these low-SAPS oils in a gasoline engine, most I've seen are from Diesels. Do you have time to tell Blackstone to run one? I realize it's $10, but do it for the team! :0
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Old 06-06-2013, 03:18 PM   #71
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I haven't sent my latest sample in yet- I'll call them up and ask if they can run it on the 5w30 Euro I'm going to be sending them. I usually pre-pay online prior to sending in the sample.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:03 PM   #72
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Nice to see a 2012 owner not afraid to run robust oil. The viscosity on the Amsoil Euro 5W-30 is robust, but of course, the additive pack isn't since it's low SAPS. Or rather, the add pack that shows up on a $30 doesn't look robust. The full SAPS 5W-40 is robust all around!

The zinc in your Subaru uoa is too high though. It exceeds Energy/Resource Conserving specs. Unless you put in a zinc additive, the zinc reading may be incorrect. Might want to ask Blackstone to retest. The first one is Subaru oil, correct? Also, calcium is too low and magnesium is way too high.

-Dennis
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:27 PM   #73
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The viscosity on the Amsoil Euro 5W-30 is robust, but of course, the additive pack isn't since it's low SAPS. Or rather, the add pack that shows up on a $30 doesn't look robust. The full SAPS 5W-40 is robust all around!

-Dennis
And that is key. Amsoil calls this a VW 504/507 oil, though I'm sure it's not on VW's official approval list.

VW gasoline cars have a factory recommended 10,000 mi OCI on 504/507 oil, including the DI turbo 2.0t, and if you look at the Lubrizol relative performance tool, 504/507 not only blows away GF-5 for wear protection requirements, it even beats ACEA A3/B4-10. These reasons lead me to try very hard to resist judging oils based on additive levels in UOA/VOA, and let the performance specs be my guide. Also, sulfur and phosphorus compounds (Sulfated ash, Moly and ZDDP/ZDP) have been shown to be a substantial contributors to valve/intake deposits so I'm coming around to actually preferring Low-SAPS oils.

If I could get Fuchs Titan GT1 for my Honda at a reasonable price, I'd give it a run in an instant...

I might try Eneos Sustina 0w50 in the WRX just for fun.
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Old 06-06-2013, 10:25 PM   #74
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Nice to see a 2012 owner not afraid to run robust oil. The viscosity on the Amsoil Euro 5W-30 is robust, but of course, the additive pack isn't since it's low SAPS. Or rather, the add pack that shows up on a $30 doesn't look robust. The full SAPS 5W-40 is robust all around!

The zinc in your Subaru uoa is too high though. It exceeds Energy/Resource Conserving specs. Unless you put in a zinc additive, the zinc reading may be incorrect. Might want to ask Blackstone to retest. The first one is Subaru oil, correct? Also, calcium is too low and magnesium is way too high.

-Dennis

I have not included any additives in my oil at any time. The first UOA was actually with Castrol Edge. I had the first oil change done at the dealership and just figured it was with Subaru synth. My bad. The UOA should say Castrol though, I'm pretty sure I wrote that down on the slip.
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Old 06-06-2013, 11:23 PM   #75
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I have not included any additives in my oil at any time. The first UOA was actually with Castrol Edge. I had the first oil change done at the dealership and just figured it was with Subaru synth. My bad. The UOA should say Castrol though, I'm pretty sure I wrote that down on the slip.
Zinc still looks too high. Take a look at this:
http://www.pqiamerica.com/March2013P...roledgesyn.htm

-Dennis
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