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Old 06-08-2013, 03:19 PM   #1
Rememo
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Default Door panel removal and stock speaker info. (instructions)

I finished the sound deadening of the front doors today, so I snapped some photos along the way.


First pop up the small cover in the door latch that hides the Philips head screw, and remove the screw.



Now pop up the small cover hiding the Philips head screw in the door handle, and remove the screw.



Starting at the hinge side of the door, slip your fingers inside the door panel and give it a sharp pull towards you.
You may need to slide something behind the panel to pry it up a bit. Don't scratch the paint!
You'll hear a distinct "POP" when the panel releases in that spot.




Work your way around the door counter-clockwise until the entire panel is loose. Once the panel is loose, lift it up to release it from the window area.

Here you can see that there are seven attachment points. (The white clip grommets)



Once you have lifted the panel free of the door, it will still have wires and the door latch connected to it.

To disconnect the wires, press on the release with a screwdriver and pry the plug out. Hint: Lay something soft on the ground so you don't scratch the panel while you're maneuvering it.

The drivers side has three wire connections. The passenger side has two.





Once the wires have been removed, you need to detach the door latch mechanism. Remove the two screws and the black plastic retainer. The latch will pop up and out, and the door panel will be free of the door.



You will probably see that some of the clip grommets have stayed in the door. While you can remove them using your fingers, it's much easier with the proper tool. Remove any stragglers and put them back on the door panel. Watch out for the black washers that are part of the grommet. Subaru uses two different grommet part numbers in the door, one has a washer, the other does not.



In this photo I have already removed the plastic that is attached to the door. I find it amazing that these doors can do so well in crash tests, since they are SO thin. (sorry about the blur)

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Last edited by Rememo; 06-08-2013 at 11:46 PM.
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:20 PM   #2
Rememo
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Many people have said that the stock speakers (non-Kicker) are OK.
When I removed the panel and saw that the speaker wasn't paper, I thought maybe I had wasted money on the Polks I purchased.
However, as soon as I removed the speaker, I knew I had to replace it.
The speaker materials may be decent, but they only weighs 8.75 ounces!!! FYI: The speakers are 4 ohm.



And there is really no magnet to speak of....



Ah... Much better




Last edited by Rememo; 06-08-2013 at 03:25 PM.
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:40 PM   #3
TObject
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Awesome, man. Thank you very much for all the pictures and detailed instructions.
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Old 06-09-2013, 12:29 AM   #4
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Do you notice a difference in sound quality? I recently set my stock speakers to almost entirely front faded only and it tightened up the speakers tremendously. It is making me put off purchasing after market speakers a little while longer.
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Old 06-09-2013, 04:18 PM   #5
Rememo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanta20 View Post
Do you notice a difference in sound quality? I recently set my stock speakers to almost entirely front faded only and it tightened up the speakers tremendously. It is making me put off purchasing after market speakers a little while longer.

Yes, but part of that could be attributed to the installation of the sound deadening materials.

I was able increase the bass and midrange without distortion. They sound better than stock at higher volumes. I have loudness turned off and the EQ set to "through".
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #6
ICE_NY
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Default Speakers

Hey man, great write up for the not so skilled user like "moi". I would like to know if you replaced the four speakers or only two?
Definitely thanx for the insight.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:30 PM   #7
Rememo
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Originally Posted by ICE_NY View Post
Hey man, great write up for the not so skilled user like "moi". I would like to know if you replaced the four speakers or only two?
Definitely thanx for the insight.
Only two at this point. I need to save some more cash to sound deaden the rear doors. When I crack those open, I will replace the speakers, since I already have a second set of Polks sitting around.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:49 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
Only two at this point. I need to save some more cash to sound deaden the rear doors. When I crack those open, I will replace the speakers, since I already have a second set of Polks sitting around.
What did you use to deaden sound? Is there any discernible difference since you have only done the front two doors?
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Old 06-10-2013, 09:24 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanta20 View Post
What did you use to deaden sound? Is there any discernible difference since you have only done the front two doors?
I placed pieces of CLD on the outer skin of the door until it no longer resonated when I tapped on it. I also placed a couple of pieces on the inner door skin. Then I hung a sheet of MLV (mass loaded vinyl), with closed cell foam glued onto it, onto the door.

The MLV is heavy. Between that and the new speakers, I probably added a couple of pounds to each door. Someone posted photos of their doors with MLV installed, but I can't find the post.

Yes, I can already notice a reduction in noise. I can't wait to tackle the floor.

Everything was purchased from:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...product-prices
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Old 06-13-2013, 11:10 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
I placed pieces of CLD on the outer skin of the door until it no longer resonated when I tapped on it. I also placed a couple of pieces on the inner door skin. Then I hung a sheet of MLV (mass loaded vinyl), with closed cell foam glued onto it, onto the door.

The MLV is heavy. Between that and the new speakers, I probably added a couple of pounds to each door. Someone posted photos of their doors with MLV installed, but I can't find the post.

Yes, I can already notice a reduction in noise. I can't wait to tackle the floor.

Everything was purchased from:

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com...product-prices

i posted pictures, can't remember where
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:28 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
i posted pictures, can't remember where

Me either. I knew it was you, so I searched through a bunch of your posts, but I couldn't find the photos.
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Old 06-13-2013, 02:44 PM   #12
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thanks for the write up, I think this will be my next project for the Subie.

Man, the magnets on the stockers are puny!!
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Old 06-13-2013, 04:59 PM   #13
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Thanks. Are you going to post a sound deadening guide soon?
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Old 06-13-2013, 08:19 PM   #14
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Thanks! this is great
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Old 06-13-2013, 10:55 PM   #15
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Old 06-14-2013, 11:36 AM   #16
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So you guys recommend using RAAMmat + closed cell foam + MLV? I've been looking at just getting the RAAMmat and the CCF from RAMM, but I just wonder if its worth is to get MLV for the final layer as well. I see that's basically what you did flyboy, are you happy with the results? How much did all that ish cost you?
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
So you guys recommend using RAAMmat + closed cell foam + MLV? I've been looking at just getting the RAAMmat and the CCF from RAMM, but I just wonder if its worth is to get MLV for the final layer as well. I see that's basically what you did flyboy, are you happy with the results? How much did all that ish cost you?
Overall happy, the mlv was 80 shipped for 40sq ft. The ccf was 25 from home depot
The raammat was around 100, but I have 5 or 6 of the 11 sheets I ordered left over. I ordered way too much, you only need 1 sheet per door for it to do it's job.

I plan to do the footwells too, just haven't got around to it yet. So to clarify, the materials I bought is enough for
Hatch floor and door, all doors, front footwells, all for about 200

Ccf won't do anything by itself, it is just used as an isolator to separate the door from the mlv.
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Old 06-17-2013, 07:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1100 View Post
The ccf was 25 from home depot
Ccf won't do anything by itself, it is just used as an isolator to separate the door from the mlv.
Was that the frost king? And it does do a little on it's own to absorb road noise, but that is about it.
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Old 06-17-2013, 08:04 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by phenryiv1 View Post

Was that the frost king? And it does do a little on it's own to absorb road noise, but that is about it.
No, it is a ccf for floor underlayment. I only used it to separate the mlv from the raammat/inner skin of the door. You can see what I used in the links to my picture posts above
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Old 06-21-2013, 03:42 PM   #20
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^What did you use to attach the MLV to the door? Some sort of aluminum tape?
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Old 06-21-2013, 07:01 PM   #21
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^What did you use to attach the MLV to the door? Some sort of aluminum tape?
Exactly what I used
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Old 06-24-2013, 02:40 AM   #22
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were the polk speakers "plug and play" with the stock connections? looking to upgrade the speakers on my impreza too...

anyone install a sub under their seats yet? like previous subaru models?
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Old 06-24-2013, 08:50 AM   #23
Rememo
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Originally Posted by cnunez13 View Post
were the polk speakers "plug and play" with the stock connections? looking to upgrade the speakers on my impreza too...

anyone install a sub under their seats yet? like previous subaru models?
No, they are not plug and play, but these will make them plug and play (assuming you also buy an adapter, or drill new holes):

Amazon.com: Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles: ElectronicsAmazon.com: Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles: Electronics
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Old 06-24-2013, 03:28 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Rememo View Post
No, they are not plug and play, but these will make them plug and play (assuming you also buy an adapter, or drill new holes):

Amazon.com: Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles: Electronics
Yes. Buy those and mounting adapters mentioned here:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
You'll need some speaker spacers: http://www.subaruaudio.net/subaru-speaker-spacers/
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Old 06-24-2013, 04:20 PM   #25
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Yes. Buy those and mounting adapters mentioned here:
Ok got it. Polk speakers, Toyota adapters, and spacers
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