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Old 06-14-2013, 11:44 AM   #18226
nubsub
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsteg View Post
I don't think they did considering the article you quote states them paying over $7 for the filter! I don't even see where you see the $10 comment.
yes, it really is there and obviously a typo:

"We handled the 7,500-mile oil change ourselves. The Impreza was easy to work on, and the price was right. We spent under $10 for the DIY, while the dealer visits averaged $113."

for me, it's

$7 filter
$1 for crush washer
$25 + $2* for oil (assuming no rebate)

= $35

still a great savings over the dealer. (mine wants ~$90 "on special" for the synthetic change.


*$2 is for the 1/3 of a quart i buy which adds to the 5 qt jug.
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Old 06-14-2013, 12:49 PM   #18227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nubsub View Post
$7 filter
$1 for crush washer
$25 + $2* for oil (assuming no rebate)

= $35
And what's your best price after a rebate?

I think I got the oil for $14 once after the Pennzoil Platinum $10 rebate, so I guess that oil change will be approximately $21 (I don't buy crush washers because I have a Fumoto valve).

Good price for the oil change, but nowhere near $10 for the complete service. Maybe the author was thinking that they already had the oil on hand and only had to buy the filter, but that's cheating.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:20 PM   #18228
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Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
And what's your best price after a rebate?

I think I got the oil for $14 once after the Pennzoil Platinum $10 rebate, so I guess that oil change will be approximately $21 (I don't buy crush washers because I have a Fumoto valve).

Good price for the oil change, but nowhere near $10 for the complete service. Maybe the author was thinking that they already had the oil on hand and only had to buy the filter, but that's cheating.
yeah, i got that rebate, too. (assuming it comes in) i think after sales tax, it worked out to $14 for the 5 qt jug of Pennzoil Plat. (22.97 for 5qts although someone told me that the price has since gone up to $24.97 for the 5 qt jug). i had previously paid $26.97 for Mobile 1.

so yeah, my best i think would be around $14 + $2 (0.33 qt) + $8 for filter and washer = $24

either way, much cheaper than the dealer, and i humbly think i do a more thorough job.
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Old 06-14-2013, 01:34 PM   #18229
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Originally Posted by nubsub View Post
either way, much cheaper than the dealer, and i humbly think i do a more thorough job.
Absolutely no doubt.

You should give the Fumoto valve a try. Less mess, and you don't have to buy crush washers anymore.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:04 PM   #18230
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Absolutely no doubt.

You should give the Fumoto valve a try. Less mess, and you don't have to buy crush washers anymore.
Whats with this crush washer stuff ? doesn't the drain plug just have a normal washer on it like every other car I've ever owned or one of the nylon washers like they put on the magnetic drain plug replacements.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:14 PM   #18231
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A crush washer is a washer made of soft material (like aluminum) that gets squished when tightened so that it conforms to any irregularities in the finish of the oil pan or the drain plug itself. It's a one-use washer, since once it's squished, it can't be squished again.

With the Fumoto, I just used the washer that came with it. Since the valve is installed once, there are no washers to replace with each oil change. But the best thing is that I have one of the "N" model valves with the nipple for connecting a rubber tube. This allows you do dress the tube in such a way as to drain into your drain pan without splashing and making a mess.

As you can imagine, 0W-20 oil is extremely thin when hot, and so it comes out FAST when removing the original drain plug. The Fumoto/tube combo gives you the control you need to avoid this mess. And if you ever want to submit an oil sample for analysis, the Fumoto makes it easy to take out a controlled amount of oil for testing.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:39 PM   #18232
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Has anyone else had an issue with their rear hatch latching? Mine seems like its extremely hard to latch now, and I've noticed multiple times while getting groceries/putting things in the back, that while driving away the door ajar light is on, and its always the hatch latch.

Will make an appointment sometime this summer for all of the various things that need to be done (remote start recall, driver's seak squeak fix, and this rear latch).
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:31 PM   #18233
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I reused my crush washer for my first diy oil change. No leakage. My dad says he always reuses the crush washers, but I wouldn't do it unless you had no choice.

I have since purchased the same drain valve and its awesome.
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Old 06-14-2013, 03:53 PM   #18234
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Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
Has anyone else had an issue with their rear hatch latching? Mine seems like its extremely hard to latch now, and I've noticed multiple times while getting groceries/putting things in the back, that while driving away the door ajar light is on, and its always the hatch latch.

Will make an appointment sometime this summer for all of the various things that need to be done (remote start recall, driver's seak squeak fix, and this rear latch).
That's happened to me a couple times, but it hasn't become a regular thing so far.
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Old 06-14-2013, 04:01 PM   #18235
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Old 06-14-2013, 10:18 PM   #18236
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For the 19mm sway bar, did everyone reuse their hardware? I'm reading the shop manual, and it says "Be sure to use a new flange nut and self-locking nut."
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Old 06-15-2013, 08:22 AM   #18237
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Originally Posted by foghelmut View Post
For the 19mm sway bar, did everyone reuse their hardware? I'm reading the shop manual, and it says "Be sure to use a new flange nut and self-locking nut."
I'm pretty sure everyone who had a sway bar before Reused the hardware that we had. I don't see why you couldn't as they've been on the car for less than a year. Maybe if they were rusted it would make sense
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Old 06-15-2013, 09:32 AM   #18238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post

I'm pretty sure everyone who had a sway bar before Reused the hardware that we had. I don't see why you couldn't as they've been on the car for less than a year. Maybe if they were rusted it would make sense
If I was a service manager at a dealer I would want the tech to use and bill for new parts, reduces liability for them and it costs them nothing to do this, because they pass the cost along to you. But keep in mind many times the tech will skip reaching for a torque wrench if it is easier to grab another tool.

Personally, I would reuse the hardware you have (if it isn't corroded or bent out of shape), but add locktite and use a torque wrench, using the correct tools should ensure the sway bar does not fall off.

Last edited by Zeeper; 06-15-2013 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #18239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
FYI: This link is for the wrong fumoto valve, you need the F108N not the F106N.
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Old 06-15-2013, 10:48 AM   #18240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper View Post
FYI: This link is for the wrong fumoto valve, you need the F108N not the F106N.
Umm, are you sure about that? I'm almost positive it's the F106N that fits our cars. As I recall, Fumoto's configurator was wrong for awhile.
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Old 06-15-2013, 11:43 AM   #18241
Zeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Umm, are you sure about that? I'm almost positive it's the F106N that fits our cars. As I recall, Fumoto's configurator was wrong for awhile.
100% sure the F108N is the correct size.
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Old 06-15-2013, 12:31 PM   #18242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgoldste01 View Post
Umm, are you sure about that? I'm almost positive it's the F106N that fits our cars. As I recall, Fumoto's configurator was wrong for awhile.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper View Post
100% sure the F108N is the correct size.
Correct...F108N is what I have installed as well. Best invention EVER for DIYers!
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Old 06-15-2013, 01:08 PM   #18243
sgoldste01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeeper View Post
100% sure the F108N is the correct size.
I stand corrected. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 06-15-2013, 03:55 PM   #18244
webster354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
Has anyone else had an issue with their rear hatch latching? Mine seems like its extremely hard to latch now, and I've noticed multiple times while getting groceries/putting things in the back, that while driving away the door ajar light is on, and its always the hatch latch.

Will make an appointment sometime this summer for all of the various things that need to be done (remote start recall, driver's seak squeak fix, and this rear latch).
I've noticed this is happening a lot lately as well, even when I close it firmly. The bottom trim piece on the inside door seems a little loose so I wonder if that is causing the problem.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:18 AM   #18245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fistv View Post
Whats with this crush washer stuff ? doesn't the drain plug just have a normal washer on it like every other car I've ever owned or one of the nylon washers like they put on the magnetic drain plug replacements.
Three wraps of yellow teflon tape works just fine. I've used it many times and haven't leaked a drop.
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:20 AM   #18246
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Stop being cheap and buy the crush washer.
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Old 06-16-2013, 08:03 AM   #18247
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Originally Posted by stevehnm View Post

Three wraps of yellow teflon tape works just fine. I've used it many times and haven't leaked a drop.
X2- I've always teflon'd drain plugs. I've never had an issue.
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Old 06-17-2013, 06:27 PM   #18248
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Found this on YouTube. Make your stereo sound better. Hidden features. http://youtu.be/X3wD-jHTN0E
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:15 PM   #18249
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Got my wheelskins cover installed tonight. Hope I don't have to ever redo it!
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:24 PM   #18250
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Got my wheelskins cover installed tonight. Hope I don't have to ever redo it!
Are you happy with how it turned out? How long did it take? Did you use the baseball stitch?
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